Nodoguro Harajuku Theme

I’ve written about Nodoguro themed dinners and also Noduguro Hard Core Sushi Omakase before, and I won’t retread the old material of my love and devotion to their depth of flavor layering, beautiful artful presentation, thoughtful construction of textures and how it works with the theme and as a progression of dishes, how every new theme (every month and a half or so it changes) is a shift in the restaurant decor that transforms it in new creative ways every time.

Instead, let’s go straight to dinner. As always, there was a printed menu at each place setting for me to add to my Nodoguro menu collection – this one was printed on both sides with the courses listings one one side and a little Harajuku illustration on the other
Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku

I was fortunate enough that for this dinner, I also got to be reunited with the Three Hungry Broads, and sat next to Mike the Firefighter. We had an amazing time all together chatting and eating, and I also enjoyed meeting the Latino sisters + brother group to my left who were also super fun. Never feel like you can’t come enjoy Nodoguro without a partner – go ahead and come solo, you’ll have a good time meeting new food friends!
Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku

OK, I lied, let’s check out the new decor first before the food.
Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku

The theme for this visit was Harajuku, which is a neighborhood in Tokyo known for fashion and being a gathering place for urban Tokyo youths from their teens to 20s and the hip culture and trends they embody.
Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku

On the counter between where we ate and where the chefs plated food were a few set up scenes with fashion dolls with big blinky eyes and posed onstage, at a pink piano, or with the backdrop of their fabulous apartment.
Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme HarajukuNodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku  Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku

I loved this idea where the Nodoguro staff dressed up and took a fashion photoshoot on the streets of Hawthorne right by this pop-up restaurant (currently next to Pastaworks until January 2016 – not sure if they will keep the space or move when Pastaworks closes at that time). Each photo really did look like it was lifted from an Asian fashion magazine.
Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku

Ok, now dinner.

Course 1: Sea Bream with Citrus and Wasabi

I always enjoy having a clean, fresh start of sashimi to dinner. As for the sake pairings, the first of the flight was actually the Johan Vineyards Pinot Noir Petillant Naturel 2014, a naturally sparkling rose that I drank before I even took a picture of its beautiful strawberry colors (I’ve had it before though at the Hardcore Sushi Omakase dinner).

Sea Bream with Citrus and Wasabi

Course 2: Ankimo and Ground Cherry

Recently, Portland Monthly listed Nodoguro as the 2015 Restaurant of the Year, and described Mark Wooten pictured here helping to plate this dish as “house farmer has a Mad Max haircut and GQ looks”. Also helping to plate is quiet and intense Colin Yoshimoto.
Plating a Nodoguro course is Mark Wooten, house farmer has a Mad Max haircut and GQ looks Nodoguro plating here assisted by Mark Wooten and Colin Yoshimoto "Also

And the silky mouth melting foie gras of the sea, ankimo (monkfish liver) combined with the other secret/not so secret treasure of ground cherry and the fun pop of that roe. I thought this was great with the Ohyama (Big Mountain) Tokubetsu Junmai Sake that offered a bit of sweetness, a bit of grain, floral, and dryness to add more layers of flavor to this course. Another sake that is just too easy too drink and enjoy.

Ankimo and Ground Cherry

Course 3: Curry Mackerel Sunomono

Chef Ryan made the curry vinegar here and I was thrilled to see such a hefty seafood in the sunomono (more acidic salad course) this dinner with the cured then grilled mackerel. Curry dishes are a common regular Japanese food that is very affordable and hearty.

Curry Mackerel Sunomono Curry Mackerel Sunomono

Course 4: Winter Squash Chanko Cup

Chankonabe is usually a huge hearty one pot stew – think HUGE pots – served to sumo wrestlers as part of their weight gaining diet, and is served in restaurants sometimes operated by retired sumo wrestlers. The more senior wrestlers eat first at the table, and then the next rank down, and next rank etc down to the juniors so I guess this mini version would be what’s left for us from the original giants.

Winter Squash Chanko Cup Winter Squash Chanko Cup

Course 5: Banana Fish with Walnut

With the dehydrated bananas and fish and walnuts I wondered how this was going to work out, but it was fun – fresh and a little sweet that reminded me a bit of the feeling of hope and youth and being a good kinda nutty different that is in Harajuku among the people who hang there. The dish was working well both as an homage to the now defunct Japanese Fashion Brand Banana Fish and it’s creative spirit.
Banana Fish with Walnut Banana Fish with Walnut

Course 6: Yum Yum Yummy Pork

This dish is a reinterpretation of a gyoza – in Harajuku you can find Harajuku Gyoza, a restaurant devoted completely and totally to only serving Japanese dumplings (usually they are pork). Ryan has ditched the dough outside to let the skin shine for crispness instead and focus on the rich pork belly in the slightly sweet sticky sauce.
Yum Yum Yummy Pork Yum Yum Yummy Pork

I don’t recall exactly when the Shirataki Junmai Ginjo Jozen Mizunogotoshi was poured, but the mildly floral and fruity sake was gone pretty quick and is so light that anyone would enjoy it. I think I complained to Mike that I needed a second of it. And third.

Course 7: Takoyaki with Tomato and Avocado

Another one of my favorites for the evening was this fun and bright Takoyaki with Tomato and Avocado and that delicate coriander flower inspired by takoyaki, a street food version of Octopus Balls without the batter and brightened in flavors.
Takoyaki with Tomato and Avocado Takoyaki with Tomato and Avocado

Course 8: Moshi Moshi Box Bento with Futomaki, pickles and matsutake

There’s always a rice course, and here it is in the form for this dinner of futomaki rolls with delicate buttery matsutake mushrooms on one end and homemade pickled veggies from Phantom Rabbit Farm on the other.
Moshi Moshi Box Bento with Futomaki, pickles and matsutake Moshi Moshi Box Bento with Futomaki, pickles and matsutake

Course 9: Eggs & Things Omelet

The tamago, sweet and light and with all those little layers pressed in, is the sign it’s time to end the meal with dessert and tea approaching…
Eggs & Things Omelet Eggs & Things Omelet

Course 10: Toasted Corn Crepe and Apricot Cream, Tea

An interpreted twist on the crepes you get at stands in Harajuku filled with fruit and cream and sometimes a whole slice of cheesecake. I had no idea this flavor combination of Corn and Apricot could and would work. That’s why I love coming back, to see the new little food adventures I may experience with combinations in entirely new ways that work by the geniuses here.

And soybean flour us a truly underappreciated underused topping for ice cream –  it adds a roasty flavor and contrast of dry texture to a frozen cold dessert that’s marvelous. Here, it does double duty to be a nod to the thin crepe that usually wraps the Japanese creme cone dessert.

My sake here, the Tsukasabotan Yamayuzu Shibori, is perhaps maybe my third such little cup of what Ryan called the sake version Mike’s Hard Lemonade upgraded, but I’ll give it more class and say like a limoncello with such strong Meyer lemon notes that the 5 of us (Broads, Mike and I) indulged in with lots of laughs.

Toasted Corn Crepe and Apricot Cream Toasted Corn Crepe and Apricot Cream

Thanks for another fabulous dinner Nodoguro!
Tea at Nodoguro with a Harajuku friend Nodoguro Dinner in October 2015, theme Harajuku

The themed dinners can be reserved by purchasing prepaid dinner tickets at NodoguroPDX for $85 for 9 courses plus tea service which does not include gratuity and beverages (you can pay via cash or credit card via Square reader there).

Which course do you think most interests you? What do you think of how Elena brought the Harajuku theme to life in the Nodoguro pop up space?

Signature

Nodoguro Upcoming Offerings, Recap of November MacDonald’s Menu

This month of December and expanding into January, Nodoguro is offering two different kind of dinner experiences you can choose from. I have written about Nodoguro many times previously, and will recap the November “MacDonald’s” fast food playful theme shortly, but wanted to get this important news out first so you can act upon it.

The first of the two dinner options you can currently choose from is, just as in the dinner I am about to recap, to let chef Ryan Roadhouse take you on a themed journey that includes nine courses, with optional beverages you can order separately or as a pairing when you get there for $85 (gratuity not included). Previous themes included Totoro, Haruki Murakami, a July Tanabata Matsuri Japanese Festival theme, and Firefly, for instance as well.

For December, the theme is GLITTER. Check the website for the dates that are available. There is a recap already from another blogger, Misadventures of Miso, of the Glitter Dinner as well!
Nodoguro's McDonalds theme for November 2014, a play on fast food. Chef Ryan Roadhouse plates the dishes right at the counter in front of diners

In addition, Ryan is also offering this month a couple times and multiple times in January a Hardcore Sushi Omakase experience for $120 (again with optional beverages you can order separately, gratuity not included). If you first got to experience Ryan or wish you had experienced Ryan when he was working at Masu, now’s your chance to try a more traditional Japanese sushi dinner. Some of the fish is being brought directly from the famed Tsukiji Market in Japan, which Ryan and Elena painstakingly pick up from the airport after midnight for you and the fish is extremely high quality, beautiful, and delicious.

AND/OR, you can also buy gift certificates to give to friends and family who you think would enjoy the Nodoguro experience, with or without you! You can purchase the gift certificate on their website on their Reservation page. I also hear he is open to hearing other proposals such as catering or classes, so be sure to inquire if you have ideas and requests. If you could see the small kitchen he currently works at then you would know that he can put together amazing things no matter what is or is not in your kitchen or desired dining space.

You should definitely try to snap up your reservation tickets online ASAP as they are selling out quickly. And, I think both of these fixed dinner prices is a steal considering that Nodoguro and Ryan have recently been the subject of lots of award and praise,. It began just earlier this year with Michael Russell at the Oregonian article “Nodoguro pop-up bringing creative Japanese cuisine to Northeast Portland who helps highlight why you should be thinking pretty hard about trying Ryan’s Hardcore Sushi Omakase.

Then recently Ryan was highlighted as a Rising Star Chef 2014 and Nodoguro listed one of Portland’s Best Restaurants by Portland Monthly, which makes a case for the themed menus that I have been dining at and the upcoming Glitter menu.  Ryan and Nodoguro also made the Eater PDX Top 3 List for 2014 Chef of the Year and 2014 Restaurant of the Year. Ryan will also be participating in the exciting Chefs’ Week PDX alongside many of the best and brightest culinary talents in Portland.
Ryan Roadhouse, Rising Star Chef 2014 of Portland Monthly

After purchasing your reservation online from the Nodoguro website, usually a couple days before your dinner Ryan will email you what the specifics of the menu for your dinner evening will be. During the reservation process you can let them know any constraints you might have (I often dine with a friend who can’t eat salmon and she is always accommodated for, and another time there was someone who could not eat pork).

Dinner from start to finish is about 2 hours or so. The email will let you know when they will start seating, and when you enter they have only a small amount of space so knowing what size parties they need to balance, Elena or someone from the Nodoguro team will let you know where you will be seated. This is when you will also have the chance to peruse the beverage menu and choose to order drinks a la carte or do a pairing.
Mark Wooten and Ryan Roadhouse of Nodoguro PDX - check out the Nodoguro Upcoming offerings to see when you can see them!

I am recapping a meal that was last months’ theme which means you can’t get it anymore. However, I like to think it helps you readers who might be researching what the experience might be like by seeing these recaps each month.

As usual, the meals do vary even within the same month or even same week based on what is fresh – I think this time I was unlucky because a very cold weather front came in during November that froze a lot of vegetables, so diners earlier in the month I think got a little bit more.

Large Cola

I know it was described how they created this homemade soda, but I brought a guest this time to dinner who was new to Nodoguro so chatted a lot more than my normal attentive dining so confess I totally missed it, sorry 🙁
Nodoguro's McDonalds theme for November 2014, a play on fast food - Large Cola

Crab, Bread and Butter (Crab, ikura, and dill)

I don’t know what to say except yum…
Nodoguro's McDonalds theme for November 2014, a play on fast food: Crab, Bread and Butter (Crab, ikura, and dill) Nodoguro's McDonalds theme for November 2014, a play on fast food: Crab, Bread and Butter (Crab, ikura, and dill)

Wartime Sashimi (soy cured ocean trout and wasabi)

During wartime new fishes entered the Japanese diet as their regular fish were not always available, as represented here by this trout
Nodoguro's McDonalds theme for November 2014, a play on fast food: Wartime Sashimi (soy cured ocean trout and wasabi)

Tofu nuggets with special sauce (tofu, uni, and aged soy)

I love uni, and keep enjoying the magic Ryan has been pulling off with taking tofu and breaking expectations of what tofu tastes and feels like.
Nodoguro's McDonalds theme for November 2014, a play on fast food: Tofu nuggets with special sauce (tofu, uni, and aged soy)

Filet o fish (yuan yaki Ling Cod and tartar sauce)

I can never say no to anything Ryan seems to pull out of that oven every dinner, and this cod is no exception. I was wondering what I would think of this homemade tartar sauce and whether it would get in the way of the beautiful flavors of the fish, but I found it to be a nice contrast and didn’t leave any sauce left on my plate.
Nodoguro's McDonalds theme for November 2014, a play on fast food: Filet o fish (yuan yaki Ling Cod and tartar sauce) Nodoguro's McDonalds theme for November 2014, a play on fast food: Filet o fish (yuan yaki Ling Cod and tartar sauce) Nodoguro's McDonalds theme for November 2014, a play on fast food: Filet o fish (yuan yaki Ling Cod and tartar sauce)

Chocolate Sukiyaki (wagyu sukiyaki, potatoes, miso, chocolate)

The addition of chocolate is so genius here. I haven’t seen this in the US, but in Asia sukiyaki is a type of fast food restaurant in which you don’t grab and go, but you sit at tables that have big pots of boiling broth. You are given pretty much raw ingredients (your choice of fish, pork, chicken, beef, potatoes etc) to cook in and because the broth is already so hot everything cooks extremely fast. It’s a family style meal where everyone gathers all at once simultaneously cooking and eating together but without having to prep anything beforehand and clean anything else up at the end.
Nodoguro's McDonalds theme for November 2014, a play on fast food: Chocolate Sukiyaki (wagyu sukiyaki, potatoes, miso, chocolate) Nodoguro's McDonalds theme for November 2014, a play on fast food: Chocolate Sukiyaki (wagyu sukiyaki, potatoes, miso, chocolate)

Coco Ichiban salad (Persimmon and root vegetables with curry vinegar)

Coco Ichiban is a curry chain restaurant, so you might have expected a curry dish but Ryan took it up a level by cooking curry down to use as the dressing!
Nodoguro's McDonalds theme for November 2014, a play on fast food: Coco Ichiban salad (Persimmon and root vegetables with curry vinegar) Nodoguro's McDonalds theme for November 2014, a play on fast food: Coco Ichiban salad (Persimmon and root vegetables with curry vinegar)

Yoshinoya bowl (seared Bonito, onion, Mizuna, and spicy soy)

Yoshinoya is a rice bowl chain restaurant famous for their beef on top of rice, though you can also get other proteins to top your rice bowl.
Nodoguro's McDonalds theme for November 2014, a play on fast food: Yoshinoya bowl (seared Bonito, onion, Mizuna, and spicy soy) "Nodoguro's

Omelet with Rice! (dashimaki tamago)

Nodoguro's McDonalds theme for November 2014, a play on fast food: Omelet with Rice! (dashimaki tamago) Nodoguro's McDonalds theme for November 2014, a play on fast food: Omelet with Rice! (dashimaki tamago)

Kit Kat

I couldn’t think of a better choice unless it was pocky because seriously Kit Kats are so well loved there. If you ever see Green Tea Kit Kat, buy it. You will get obsessed over it like so many others who have fallen for its flavors… but this upgraded fancy Kit Kat from Nodoguro with whipped coconut milk in the back is excellent too.
Nodoguro's McDonalds theme for November 2014, a play on fast food: Kit Kat Nodoguro's McDonalds theme for November 2014, a play on fast food: Kit Kat

Hamburger snack (manju) and Drive thru Coffee

OMG the most adorable little manju I’ve ever seen, and that was a high bar given the previously I’ve admired the rabbit in the moon one at a previous Nodoguro dinner.
Nodoguro's McDonalds theme for November 2014, a play on fast food: Hamburger snack (manju) with Drive Thru Coffee Nodoguro's McDonalds theme for November 2014, a play on fast food: Hamburger snack (manju) with Drive Thru Coffee Nodoguro's McDonalds theme for November 2014, a play on fast food: Hamburger snack (manju) with Drive Thru Coffee

I have to give a big hand again to Elena who always puts together the atmosphere for the new theme each month- it’s the second thing I look forward to, after the food of course. I want to see what food magic Ryan and partner in crime Mark Wooten of supplier Phantom Rabbit Farms has put together, and I want to see what decor Elena and her father/children have created. I was all excited like I haven’t been over Happy Meals for a long time when I saw the treats inside… which ha ha I’m not sharing the pics with you but they are super cute toys. I somehow missed the Menu Board that Misadventures with Miso did capture, so be sure to check out the recap at that blog as well, MwM seems incredibly knowledgeable about Japanese cuisine and understands the inspirations Nodoguro is rifting off of much better than I did.
Nodoguro's McDonalds theme for November 2014, a play on fast food Nodoguro's McDonalds theme for November 2014, a play on fast food Nodoguro's McDonalds theme for November 2014, a play on fast food

Follow on Twitter Nodoguro or Ryan Roadhouse to keep up for when new tickets or events for more Nodoguro Upcoming Offerings announcements as they come.

What do you think of the Nodoguro take on Japanese fast food? I’m sort of inspired by the idea, though I couldn’t do it with Japanese fast food, but a dinner using American fast food inspirations could be a fun challenge!

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September Nodoguro Theme Totoro

I think this has been my favorite tablescape yet, with September’s Nodoguro theme Totoro from My Neighbor Totoro, a film by Hayao Miyazaki and Studio Ghibli.

Seriously, at nine courses for $85, these Nodoguro PDX dinners are such an amazing value. Now that Evoe has closed and the space next to Pastaworks on Hawthorne is theirs, I expect Nodoguro to start settling in now that it’s not a hobo that needs to pop up at different locations.

So far, the main noticeable change is the expansion of when they can have their dinners: the one I attended was on a Saturday evening, instead of being limited to Tuesday and Wednesday nights like before. The chalkboards that used to list the Evoe menu have been wiped clean, and I hope that Ryan and Elena will display all the various paintings that have been created for each of the past pop-up dinner themes, sort of like a Nodoguro Art Exhibit. Although I loved Totoro, and of course the food and my dining companions, one of the highlights this past dinner was meeting Elena’s father, who paints an art piece each month reflecting the latest Nodoguro theme. I would be proud to hang any one of his work on my walls at home!

A new addition to the menu is that Nodoguro also debuted a pairing menu for their courses that was suggested by a very knowledgeable guest and locally known drinks connossieur Paul Willenberg. At $50 for six beverage pairings, and at least at my seating everything but the beer was a full pour (and the beer was still at a generous 10 ounces), it’s another bargain value and all together makes for a very filling meal indeed. There were several bottles that I jotted down the name on my phone to seek out later as they were great unique finds, and I loved being introduced to them. I would definitely recommend the pairing menu.

If you are going to explore and be taken on a culinary adventure, might as well go all in right?  So eat light the day you are coming to your dinner!

I knew I was going to have a fabulous time when I saw the new Nodoguro host standing there to greet us as we arrived. I hope they continue to employ him because he was so welcoming and warm and I immediately felt comfortable.
The host Totoro at the Nodoguro Dinner for September

Meanwhile, on the side of the wall that is usually the latest Nodoguro theme painting, a projector instead showed the Totoro movie while just below the screen seemed to be a little shrine…
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro

The tablescape also included Totoro on the menus for food and drink, and peeking at guests as they dined from the terrariums. A dragon also was a callback to another Hayao Miyazaki film, Spirited Away.
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. The tablescape had lots of Totoros peeking at the guest diners Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. The tablescape had lots of Totoros peeking at the guest diners Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. The tablescape had lots of Totoros peeking at the guest diners Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. The tablescape had lots of Totoros peeking at the guest diners Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. The tablescape had lots of Totoros peeking at the guest diners Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. The tablescape had lots of Totoros peeking at the guest diners Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. The tablescape had lots of Totoros peeking at the guest diners

First Course: Phantom Rabbit Melon slice

I can’t get over Totoro with his little “o” on his mouth watching me eat this melon with the champagne pairing, as you can see in the last photo in the background. I can never complain with starting a meal with a pairing that includes sparkling, in this case the Lamiable Champagne Brut Grand Cru.

Also in the background, as a little dinner party group we also decided to bring some corn as a little joke to Nodoguro – the youngest daughter bringing a fresh sweet corn to her mother is an important plot point in the Totoro movie.

Second Course: Poached Octopus with Wasabi and Citrus

A glimpse of Chef Ryan Roadhouse slicing the Poached Octopus like a ninja.
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Chef Ryan Roadhouse slicing the Poached Octopus

Don’t be afraid of the little suckers of these tentacles- eating these was so soft, reminiscent of the texture of a poached lobster, this was so tender.

Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Second Course: Poached Octopus with Wasabi and Citrus Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Second Course: Poached Octopus with Wasabi and Citrus Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Second Course: Poached Octopus with Wasabi and Citrus

Third Course: Tomato Oden with Ham and Eggs

Teamwork in plating the course between Ryan Roadhouse and Mark Wooten!
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Third Course: Tomato Oden with Ham and Eggs. Teamwork in plating by Ryan Roadhouse and Mark Wooten Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Third Course: Tomato Oden with Ham and Eggs. Teamwork in plating by Ryan Roadhouse and Mark Wooten Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Third Course: Tomato Oden with Ham and Eggs. Teamwork in plating by Ryan Roadhouse and Mark Wooten
And the beautiful result of two tomatoes, 3 year aged ham, and egg yolk cream…
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Third Course: Tomato Oden with Ham and Eggs. The beautiful result of two tomatoes, 3 year aged ham, and egg yolk cream Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Third Course: Tomato Oden with Ham and Eggs. The beautiful result of two tomatoes, 3 year aged ham, and egg yolk cream

Not pictured is the beautiful glass of the next beverage pairing, a 2013 Fossil and Fawn Rosé  of Pinot Gris, Crowley Station which was just lovely. I thought I took a photo of it to show the colors of that beautiful rose color (in fact it bordered more on strawberry red than a light pink!) of this Pinot Gris with the tomato, but apparently I got excited and just ate this dish.

Fourth Course: Dungeness Crab and Fennel Sunomono

Time for a little palate cleanser with the “salad” course of sunomono, which as Ryan wryly explained, is “stuff in vinegar”.
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Fourth Course: Dungeness Crab and Fennel Sunomono and Uni wrapped in kelp Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Fourth Course: Dungeness Crab and Fennel Sunomono and Uni wrapped in kelp Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Fourth Course: Dungeness Crab and Fennel Sunomono and Uni wrapped in kelp
What is this tubular vegetable thing? Oh says Ryan offhandedly, just Uni wrapped in Kelp. No big deal.
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Fourth Course: Dungeness Crab and Fennel Sunomono and Uni wrapped in kelp

Fifth Course: Monkfish Liver Torchon with Ground Cherry Miso

I don’t know why I’ve been so lucky to get to eat delicious rich fatty liver for 3 weeks now!
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Fifth Course: Monkfish Liver Torchon with Ground Cherry Miso Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Fifth Course: Monkfish Liver Torchon with Ground Cherry Miso Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Fifth Course: Monkfish Liver Torchon with Ground Cherry Miso

This is where I had my very favorite pairing, which was the Fuku Chitose “Happy Owl” Yamahai Junmai sake that had a very mushroom quality to the flavor that really complimented the melt in your mouth liver torchon here.
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Fifth Course: Monkfish Liver Torchon with Ground Cherry Miso

Sixth Course: Smoked Salmon and Nanban Carrots

As soon as they opened the oven the room practically fell into silence as we breathed in heavily the incredibly smoky aromas of this dish.

This time Ryan went with smoked alder on sashimi grade salmon, and the beautiful colors of the corn and carrot flowers adding some delicacy to this big hunk of fish that just tenderly flaked off with our chopsticks. I almost wished I had a whiskey to enjoy with this, but the sake also went well in emphasizing the grand earthiness of this dish.
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Sixth Course: Smoked Salmon and Nanban Carrots Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Sixth Course: Smoked Salmon and Nanban Carrots Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Sixth Course: Smoked Salmon and Nanban Carrots

Seventh Course: Chiashu with Turnip, Miso, and Walnut

This chiashu is a call back to Spirited Away, which is one of the foodiest movies Hayao Miyazaki has made. In the movie, the heroine’s parents are turned into pigs as they eat like pigs at an empty restaurant stall on food probably much like this luscious pork belly. I imagine if I saw an empty foodstand with the dish lined up like this, it would indeed be a mighty strong temptation…
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Seventh Course: Chiashu with Turnip, Miso, and Walnut, a dish that is a nod to Spirited Away also by Hayao Miyazaki Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Seventh Course: Chiashu with Turnip, Miso, and Walnut, a dish that is a nod to Spirited Away also by Hayao Miyazaki

The mustard greens and the beverage pairing, a 2012 Johan Vineyards Blaufränkisch (a grape I had never heard of until I was introduced at this meal, and was very pleased to make the acquaintance and look forward to being friends) were a great contrast to the richness of the meat. Yet, at the same time the Blaufränkisch was contrasting it with a hint of spice, the wine was also wonderfully complimenting the meat with its round fruit that is silky and rich without heavy tannins.

The miso was providing extra umami along with a bit of salt highlight, and the turnip here being a nod to the use of radish.
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Seventh Course: Chiashu with Turnip, Miso, and Walnut, a dish that is a nod to Spirited Away also by Hayao Miyazaki Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Seventh Course: Chiashu with Turnip, Miso, and Walnut, a dish that is a nod to Spirited Away also by Hayao Miyazaki Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Seventh Course: Chiashu with Turnip, Miso, and Walnut, a dish that is a nod to Spirited Away also by Hayao Miyazaki

Can you tell I was excited by this slow roasted pork dish?
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Seventh Course: Chiashu with Turnip, Miso, and Walnut, a dish that is a nod to Spirited Away also by Hayao Miyazaki

Eighth Course: Satsuki’s Bento

This is the Nodoguro interpretation of the bento box that the older sister character puts together for her family in the My Neighbor Totoro movie. This was the only pairing that I didn’t like, as at least for me the Upright Six dark rye saison beer had caramel notes that I didn’t understand with the mackerel fish and Italian plum flavors of this rice bowl.
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Eighth Course: Satsuki's Bento Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Eighth Course: Satsuki's Bento Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Eighth Course: Satsuki's Bento

Ninth Course: Tamago Sushi

On the other hand, I did like the Rye Saison beer with the rice stuffed sweet rolled egg!
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Ninth Course: Tamago Sushi with the rice stuffed inside the sweet rolled egg Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Ninth Course: Tamago Sushi with the rice stuffed inside the sweet rolled egg

Tenth Course: Acorn, Figs, and Honey

Acorns play a big part in Totoro, so I was not surprised to see them in the decorative elements of the restaurant this month as well as in a dish. This was paired with a 2001 Jos. Christoffel Jr Orziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese, a terrific riesling that offered both sweetness that blossomed into spiciness that was so incredibly I preferred drinking it alone to eating it with the food so I could enjoy its complexity.

In this dish, the acorns are in gel form and paired with popped soba and figs right from the chef’s personal family garden and some Bee Local Honey (no surprise as besides having amazing honey, I saw these two dark haired curly gentlemen Ryan at the  and Damian of Bee Local right next to each other at the Feast Oregon County tables on Saturday.
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Tenth Course: Acorn, Figs, and honey from Bee Local, and some popped soba Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Tenth Course: Acorn, Figs, and honey from Bee Local, and some popped soba Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Tenth Course: Acorn, Figs, and honey from Bee Local, and some popped soba

Tea Service: Moon Manju with Peppermint Tea

And then all too soon, it was the end, with the traditional Japanese tea service of a manju with a rabbit on it (a popular folklore in Asian cultures is that a rabbit lives on the moon) and the peppermint tea which started as green tea and then added the peppermint layer.
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Tea Service: Moon Manju with Peppermint Tea

It was a pretty delicious dinner, as always… interestingly enough, there is a LOT of food in the Hayao Miyazaki films, particularly Spirited Away which had tons of food including a street full of food stalls inspired by the town of Jiufen in Taiwan. Maybe some day in the future… a repeat with dishes inspired by more films?

The October theme for the Nodoguro Dinners is “A Tribute to Water”. Check the website often as they will sometimes announce new dates! Buy your seats and experience what I think is the best Japanese cuisine in Portland!

Some of the draft courses (dependent on what is best and fresh at the time of the dinner, they even change it out during the month sometimes as needed) include dishes like

  • Charred Hakurei Tofu with ikura, and Matsutake 
  • Hirame Usuzukuri (a thinly sliced Halibut sashimi served with Ponzu sauce)
  • Orca beans, scallop, Uni, and water pepper
  • Air dried Sanma with citrus, and grated karaine
  • Duck, Soba, and Chrysanthemum
  • Chocolate and Filbert Beer Float

Get your tickets at the Nodoguro website!

Signature

The Nodoguro Haruki Murakami August themed pop-up

Here’s my recap of the Nodoguro August themed pop-up- which this month was themed after the author Haruki Murakami, a famous post-modern literature author. I attended this dinner on 8/12/2014.
Nodoguro Haruki Murakami August themed pop-up Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014

For next month, September, the new theme will be Totoro, from the animated move My Neighbor Totoro by Hayao Miyazaki!! Buy your tickets now for this pop-up of Nodoguro PDX that pops up at the Evoe space. The menu changes every month so it is only for a special 6-8 time culinary performance by Ryan Roadhouse and partner in crime behind the kitchen Mark Wooten of Phantom Rabbit Farms. At least, it seems, until they are ramped up to take over the Evoe they have been popping up in permanently!!

This time, because of where I was sitting by the counters, I took some special edition photos of our two chefs Ryan in the hat and Mark ready-for-a-shampoo-commercial preparing and plating the dishes. You will also get a glimpse of hostess and pop-up atmosphere curator Elena assisting in serving and explaining the dishes.

The Nodoguro Haruki Murakami theme this month meant creating dishes as described from various books by Haruki Murakami inspired a diverse journey of flavors, and yielded my most favorite sunomono yet from them. Each dish came from a description of the book listed with the dish (shown in bold italic), and spanned across 5 novels.

Nodoguro Haruki Murakami August themed pop-up, The books Nodoguro Haruki Murakami August themed pop-up The books inspiring the various dishes
Nodoguro Haruki Murakami August themed pop-up Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014 Nodoguro Haruki Murakami August themed pop-up, special painting Elena's dad does (as he does every month)

For the optional beverage pairing, I shared a bottle of Ippongi Denshin Yuki Sake with my two dining friends, though I was tempted by the Wind Up Bird cocktail (The Wind Up Bird is another Haruki Murakami novel).
Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014 Drink options for our dinner Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014 Ippongi Denshin Yuki Sake for our dinner Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014 Ippongi Denshin Yuki Sake for our dinner

So now, come take this visual journey…
Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014 Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014

Torke Oyster with Uni, and ginger blossom

From Hotel Lobby Oyster
 Torke Oyster with Uni, and ginger blossom at Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014  Torke Oyster with Uni, and ginger blossom at Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014

Fig Salad with tofu cream, chanterelle and pine nut

From 1Q84
Bonus photos of some of the prepping of the tofu cream mixture by Mark
Mark Wooten preparing the next dishes at Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014 Ryan Roadhouse and Mark Wooten preparing the next dishes at Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014

And here is the super tasty dish, which I think surprised many guests in its interesting flavors.
Fig Salad with tofu cream, chanterelle and pine nut by Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014 Fig Salad with tofu cream, chanterelle and pine nut by Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014

Sea Bream Sashimi with citrus, skin salad and water pepper

From Kafka on the Shore
Sea Bream Sashim with citrus, skin salad and water pepper, Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014
Ryan Roadhouse and Mark Wooten prepared these dishes on the cool fish plates while Elena Roadhouse explains something to a fellow guest diner
Ryan Roadhouse and Mark Wooten preparing the next dishes at Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014 while Elena Roadhouse explains something to a fellow guest diner Mark Wooten preparing the next dishes at Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014

Midori’s Broiled Sablefish and spicy Lotus root

From Norwegian Wood
It smelled sooo good when Ryan opened this oven door. Sure, the handle fell off a little later, but it did the trick for this melt in your mouth fish with its crispy skin.
It smelled sooo good when Ryan opened this oven door. Sure, the handle fell off a little later, but it did the trick for this melt in your mouth fish with its crispy skin
Definitely one of my favorite dishes of the evening.
Midori's Broiled Sablefish and spicy Lotus root from Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014 Midori's Broiled Sablefish and spicy Lotus root from Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014

From Norwegian Wood/1Q84
Ryan Roadhouse and Mark Wooten preparing the next dishes at Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014
I liked this sunonomo the most because it’s been more substantial then previous ones that were more palate cleanses, this one felt much more like a course that just happened to have refreshing acidity (and which I still picked up the bowl at the end and drank the rest of the vinaigrette). I liked that this time it had egg which gave a little creaminess to it as well.
Smoked Mackerel Sunomono with egg vinegar, cucumber and seaweed, my fave sunomono they have made so far at Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014 Smoked Mackerel Sunomono with egg vinegar, cucumber and seaweed, my fave sunomono they have made so far at Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014

Seared Japanese Eggplant, bonito, ginger, and red miso

From Norwegian Wood
The teamwork continues…
Ryan Roadhouse and Mark Wooten preparing the next dishes at Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014
And the artsy plating of the dish
Seared Japanese Eggplant, bonito, ginger, and red miso from Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014 Seared Japanese Eggplant, bonito, ginger, and red miso from Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014

Salmon Oyakodon with Koshihikari Rice

From 1Q84
The wasabi was grated with this shark skin paddle:
The wasabi was grated with this shark skin paddle
I never get tired of fish eggs and sashimi cut fish on rice.
Salmon Oyakodon with Koshihikari Rice, Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014 Salmon Oyakodon with Koshihikari Rice, Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014

Omelette in Dashi

From Norwegian Wood
Omelette in Dashi at Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014 Omelette in Dashi at Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014

From Hear the Wind Sing
Canned Peach, pancake, and Coca Cola dessert course at Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014 Canned Peach, pancake, and Coca Cola dessert course at Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014

Watermelon Manju and Genmai matcha

Watermelon Manju and Genmai matcha at Nodoguro August themed pop-up- Haruki Murakami 8/12/2014
You can see past recaps of Nodoguro dinners I have attended here for July and here for June and here for May!

Signature

Nodoguro July 2014 Tanabata Mitsuri

Another month, another dinner recap, so here’s me reporting in with the Nodoguro July 2014 menu.

Pretty much Nodoguro PDX is part of my monthly budget now. The menu changes every month, and I don’t know any other place I can get this kind of experience and level of complexity of flavors in any Japanese restaurant in Portland. Every menu, even from week to week or day to day, changes based on the produce availability and freshness of the ingredients, so if I don’t go that month, I will never see that combo again. Damn you Ryan.

Even though this is a pop-up in the Evoo space, Elena does an amazing job transforming the space each time with simplicity and grace and warmth based on that month’s theme. What a supercouple.

A peek at Elena of Nodoguro PDX on the bottom right and some of the colorful lanterns in the Evoo space A peek at Ryan talking to one of the guests at the Nodoguro pop up

Lovely decorations by Elena, and one of the sake curated by Carl for the dinner Lovely decorations by Elena, and a peek at Mark in the upper right

Add in the unique produce from Mark of Phantom Rabbit Farms who is providing so many of their ingredients. Apparently they just sat down with some coffee with a Japanese seed catalog and oh, decided what to grow all year. Psssh. These geniuses. Check out the Phantom Rabbit Farm website for their series of farm dinners – I hope to visit sometime.

Oh, and then there are the additional drinks from Carl Donheiser (he wasn’t at my July dinner and was missed, though it was his menu). It’s no wonder that Michael Russell named Nodoguro one of the best pop up restaurants in Portland that cumulatively add up to the Oregonion’s Restaurant of the Year.

For this dinner, we got to write wishes that we then tied onto a tree Each month, along with a change in theme is a new painting by Elena's dad for Nodoguro!

I don’t know what else to say but to share the photos.

The Menu for Nodoguro July 2014

Cucumber soup with fermented ume, and Nasturtium
Nodoguro July 2014 Cucumber soup with fermented ume, and Nasturtium Nodoguro July 2014 Cucumber soup with fermented ume, and Nasturtium Nodoguro July 2014 Cucumber soup with fermented ume, and Nasturtium

Oregon Albacore, wasabi and mitsuba bud with aged soy and citrus

Nodoguro July 2014 Oregon Albacore, wasabi and mitsuba bud with aged soy and citrus Nodoguro July 2014 Oregon Albacore, wasabi and mitsuba bud with aged soy and citrus

Sesame tofu with Uni, caviar, and water pepper

Nodoguro July 2014 Sesame tofu with Uni, caviar, and water pepper Nodoguro July 2014 Sesame tofu with Uni, caviar, and water pepper

Air dried Mackerel, crushed turnip, yuzu kosho, myoga and shiso

Nodoguro July 2014 Air dried Mackerel, crushed turnip, yuzu kosho, myoga and shiso Nodoguro July 2014 Air dried Mackerel, crushed turnip, yuzu kosho, myoga and shiso

Kakuni pork belly , onsen egg, mizuna and mustard 

Nodoguro July 2014 Kakuni pork belly , onsen egg, mizuna and mustard Nodoguro July 2014 Kakuni pork belly , onsen egg, mizuna and mustard

Orach, pickled burdock, fennel, and cucumber blossom

Nodoguro July 2014 Orach, pickled burdock, fennel, and cucumber blossom Nodoguro July 2014 Orach, pickled burdock, fennel, and cucumber blossom

“Bento”  with Soy cured trout pressed sushi, futomaki, and ikura don 

Nodoguro July 2014 Bento with Soy cured trout pressed sushi, futomaki, and ikura don Nodoguro July 2014 Bento with Soy cured trout pressed sushi, futomaki, and ikura don Nodoguro July 2014 Bento with Soy cured trout pressed sushi, futomaki, and ikura don Nodoguro July 2014 Bento with Soy cured trout pressed sushi, futomaki, and ikura don

Dashimaki Tamago

Nodoguro July 2014 Dashimaki Tamago

Frozen Koji cream with hazlenut and raspberry syrup

Nodoguro July 2014 Frozen Koji cream w/ hazlenut, and raspberry syrup Nodoguro July 2014 Frozen Koji cream w/ hazlenut, and raspberry syrup

“Young momoji” Manju with Roasted Buckwheat tea

Nodoguro July 2014 Young momoji Manju with Roasted Buckwheat tea Nodoguro July 2014 Young momoji Manju with Roasted Buckwheat tea Nodoguro July 2014 Young momoji Manju with Roasted Buckwheat tea

Besides Nodoguro now on my regular pop up circuit, I have Holdfast, Laangbaan, and DaNet on my wishlist to try out.

Have you been to any pop up restaurants in Portland yet? Which ones?

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