Portland Hot Dogs – Food Carts

July 31, 2015 by 8 Comments

This post has been a long time in a making, usually because after having one of these I feel like I need to take 5 exercise classes. But, it’s finally time to share some of the hot dogs I’ve been tasting around town.

Hot Dogs, or at least a new gourmet/all in with toppings trend, has emerged recently this 2015. It seemed like it was only just a couple months ago where on a panel Dougie Adams (of Imperial, and also Top Chef,  which is what the panel was celebrating) confessed his love for simple hot dogs.

But then in the past couple months, fancy hot dogs have been a trend. There was the opening on NE Alberta of Donnie Vegas, the Beaverton and roaming truck of Clutch Prime Sausagery, Stray Dog PDX Pop up that specialized in appearing once a week with fancy dogs (and even traveled to New York to pop up), and more on the way thanks to upcoming Micah Camden venture of Hop Dog (which popped up earlier at Boxer Ramen this month and gave out free hot dogs for  National  Hot Dog Day).

I want to do individual reports of the hot dog brick and mortars, but I did try and wanted to share a few other doggies in town that come via the traditional hot dog vendor way: a food cart.

In summer heat wave weather you may not think to visit a food cart, but bad weather days be it too hot, too cold, rainy are days you should especially patronize the food carts. Inside the little kitchen of their cart, it sucks a lot more for them and your visit can be the difference between them even breaking even that day because of lower foot traffic. So visit them, they’ll appreciate you!

We Be Weiners

First, we have the start of my hot dog journey with We Be Weiners . We Be Weiners has been serving up hot dogs since 2005, and the food cart has re-located from the cart pod A la Carts at SE Division to now SW 5th and Harrison by PSU. There are 15 other dogs on the menu (outside biscuits and gravy, meatball sandwiches, Frito Chili Pie and more), ranging from breakfast dogs with gravy to spicy dogs with salsa or one with jalapenos and chilies or even Sambal Oelek, as well as Chicago of, Reuben Dog, Corn Dog, Tofurky Italian Sausage and more.

Of all the food carts offering fancy hot dogs, We Be Weiners has the most variety to choose from. At most dogs hovering at $3-5 it is also the most value for your fancy dog.
We Be Weiners where I got a Porklandia hot dog, with a Hebrew National all beef hot dog filled with Swiss Cheese, Bacon Wrapped, then deep fried and topped with onion crunch and mustard We Be Weiners where I got a Porklandia hot dog, with a Hebrew National all beef hot dog filled with Swiss Cheese, Bacon Wrapped, then deep fried and topped with onion crunch and mustard

This is where I got a Porklandia hot dog, with a Hebrew National all beef hot dog filled with Swiss Cheese, Bacon Wrapped, then deep fried and topped with onion crunch and mustard.
We Be Weiners where I got a Porklandia hot dog, with a Hebrew National all beef hot dog filled with Swiss Cheese, Bacon Wrapped, then deep fried and topped with onion crunch and mustard We Be Weiners where I got a Porklandia hot dog, with a Hebrew National all beef hot dog filled with Swiss Cheese, Bacon Wrapped, then deep fried and topped with onion crunch and mustard

We Be Weiners on Zomato

Dog town

Next, I wanted to highlight the hot dogs available at the Tidbit food cart pod on SE Division and Division, at Dog Town. Their list of about a dozen impressive dogs varies from LaLa Land with bacon and more bacon to a veggie sausage (Farmer’s Daughter, with romesco sauce, grilled leeks, shaved fennel, arugula to go with the veggie sausage so even a vegetarian won’t feel left out), 6 hour pulled pork a la Memphis Pulled Pork dog, to Fricken Chicken with fried chicken and bourbon bread or Lamborghini with Australian Lamb Sausage cuddled in naan bread, or a Sonoran bacon wrapped hot dog with salsa verde and avocado creme nestled in a made to order fry bread. The Friday Night Lights chili dog of course comes topped with Fritos too – they think of everything here to take it to the top and a little past that.

I don’t think it’s possible to neatly eat any of their insanely generously topped hot dogs. What makes them stand out to me is how the hot dog menu options are so bold, while still being thoughtfully composed to balance a fun range of flavors and textures to go all out in meeting the dramatic names of the hot dog option. At around $6 these hot dogs deliver upgraded flavor that more than justifies the price. This is more of a sandwich that happens to also have a sausage in it than just a hot dog.
Dog Town, located at Tidbit Food cart at SE 28th and Division offers an impressive heavily topped hot dog menu selection in Portland
Return of the Mac, a hot dog smothered in gooey mac and cheese, crispy bacon, and garlic bread crumbs on a fresh baked bun
Return of the Mac at Dog Town food cart, a hot dog smothered in gooey mac and cheese, crispy bacon, and garlic bread crumbs on a fresh baked bun Return of the Mac at Dog Town food cart, a hot dog smothered in gooey mac and cheese, crispy bacon, and garlic bread crumbs on a fresh baked bun

You’d think with the mac and cheese that would be my favorite, but at Dog Town my favorite is the Rocky Balboa, which is a Philly Cheesesteak Dog that includes All Beef coney Dog split and grilled topped with thinly sliced beef, grilled onions and peppers, and melted provolone.
Dogtown Rocky Balboa hot dog, which is a Philly Cheesesteak Dog that includes All Beef coney Dog split and grilled topped with thinly sliced beef, grilled onions and peppers, and melted provolone Dogtown Rocky Balboa hot dog, which is a Philly Cheesesteak Dog that includes All Beef coney Dog split and grilled topped with thinly sliced beef, grilled onions and peppers, and melted provolone

Dog Town Food Cart on Zomato

Bro-Dogs and Burgers

Finally, we have the super messy but delish offering from Bro-Dogs food truck (roaming food truck so check their social media, and also located at PDX Airport pre-security) of the “Dude!!!” The Dude!!! Bro-dog includes a Zenger smoked bacon and cheddar sausage with bacon, cheddar, mushroom, onion, garlic, cream cheese and two kinds of BBQ sauce, all on a handcrafted Alessio Bakery bun.

Bro-Dogs and Burgers menu also has a regular Bro Dog, Bratwurst, Polish, and Vegan dog as well as a Dirty Burger and Dirty Veggie Burger,  and special sausages like jalapeño cheddar or chicken apple,  all on the Alessio Bakery sandwich bun.

It’s hard not to be drawn to The Dude!!! in really being bad for you in a good way. I would almost expect this to show up on an episode highlighting over the top hot dogs in the US. I mean the size of this thing is veering into burrito territory,  thus the higher $7 price that’s the same price as their Dirty Burger. The rest of the menu is priced a couple bucks less.
Bro-Dogs and Burgers Bro-Dogs and Burgers menu famously includes their Dude!!! dog, as well as Bro Dog, Bratwurst, Polish, and Vegan dog as well as a Dirty Burger and Dirty Veggie burger. Bro-Dogs and Burgers menu famously includes their Dude!!! dog, as well as Bro Dog, Bratwurst, Polish, and Vegan dog as well as a Dirty Burger and Dirty Veggie burger. The Dude!!! Bro-dog from Bro-Dogs and Burgers food cart/truck includes a Zenger smoked bacon and cheddar sausage with bacon, cheddar, mushroom, onion, garlic, cream cheese and two kinds of BBQ sauce, all on a handcrafted Alesio Bakery bun The Dude!!! Bro-dog from Bro-Dogs and Burgers food cart/truck includes a Zenger smoked bacon and cheddar sausage with bacon, cheddar, mushroom, onion, garlic, cream cheese and two kinds of BBQ sauce, all on a handcrafted Alesio Bakery bun

What are your thoughts on the fancy hot dog trend? What’s the fanciest hot dig topping you’ve seen?

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Russian Dinner at Kachka PDX

June 5, 2015 by 7 Comments

Russian food is comforting and filling as you would expect from a country where it can get negative 30 below. For a country that has gone through so much famine and a generation with harsh memories of long queues for rationed food, what cuisine the people have been able to put together feels full of love and hope and celebration.

The cuisine has all the complexity yet simplicity of home-cooked, like you are at a family meal that has perfected and passed a recipe on through generations. The food feels emotional, with its contrast of plenty (though you will notice plenty of food showcasing mayo or pickles, or lots of flavors that may have been a way to make up for the small amount of meat since part of what you purchased may be rotten) with the reality of the harsh, melancholy heartbreak and hardship of Russian history.

One of my favorite restaurants when I lived in Chicago was Russian Tea Time (chef Bonnie Morales and husband Israel Morales are from Chicago too). When I moved from Chicago to Portland in 2008 I was disappointed by the lack of Russian cuisine in Portland. Then, after a few years I was thrilled when I got a bit of a taste with a Russian Pop-up at an early test of what would be eventually Da Net via Vitaly Paley’s Russian Pop-up back in March of 2013. Then, a month later, Kachka PDX opened as a permanent location to get a Russian cuisine fix . After completing a promise to myself to finish a book on Soviet food, I rewarded myself with several visits that I am now sharing with you. While DaNet, as I covered in a previous post, is a pop up Russian Experience with a set menu, Kachka is a restaurant you can visit any day and order your Russian meal a la carte.

Located at 720 SE Grand Avenue, Kachka doesn’t look like much from the outside with it’s rectangular, narrow long space that is dimly lit. Half the wall has fake windows, making you feel just like you were in a communal dining room with other comrades (well hello, I guess we are).

Stepping inside, you feel a bit like you are in a Russian living room with the utensils and napkins on the table in a flowery mug. , The tables are a bit cramped together to continue to give the requisite vibe of a communal space while thankfully, still having your own private table (no shared tables here unlike some actual communal table restaurants). A few kitschy references to Rodina (Russia portrayed as a Motherland) are scattered on the wall here or there to provide warmth, and there are a few pieces of Soviet political decor here or there as well.
Kachka PDX front Kachka PDX front host stand I came in early on a Monday for happy hour on a super cold rainy day and was treated to the ability to take this great shot of an almost empty Kachka. Several seats were taken only minutes after this photo. Bar at Kachka PDX is a nod to the propaganda of Soviet Russia times and Imperial Russia Kachka PDX simple Soviet nods on the wall

While my previous Russian restaurant experience offered more homey foods of the different regions of Mother Russia, Kachka focuses mainly on zakuski, which are small hot or cold super savory small plates that are meant to accompany enjoyment of vodka. The goal is to completely fill your table with zakuski and as you drink your vodka, always have a toast and a bite of zakuski along with spirited conversation.

With their offering of a vodka flight at a reasonable 30 grams times three, or ordering any individual at sizes of 30, 60, or 100 grams, it’s possible to get a taste of that tradition of drinking and eating without going overboard. You can go traditional vodka or the infused with additional flavor liquors (mostly vodka but not exclusively) like lemon vodka, rosemary vodka, chamomile vodka, horseradish vodka, cocoa nib vodka and more like caraway rye whiskey or Earl Grey brandy. My personal favorite is the horseradish vodka.

They also have some pre organized vodka flights for you, this one is the Mother Russia vodka flight with from right to left, green mark, hammer + sickle, and imperia. Even if you don’t think you like vodka, I really encourage you to try one of the flavor vodka in 30 grams in the spirit of what Kachka is trying to do.
Kachka PDX Vodka Flights: 30 grams x 3 of curated vodka. This one is the Mother Russia flight with from right to left, green mark, hammer + sickle, and imperia Kachka PDX Vodka Flights: 30 grams x 3 of curated vodka. This one is the Mother Russia flight with from right to left, green mark, hammer + sickle, and imperia Kachka PDX Vodka Flights: 30 grams x 3 of curated vodka. This one is the Mother Russia flight with from right to left, green mark, hammer + sickle, and imperia Kachka PDX 30 g of lemon infused vodka

If you come at happy hour though, or you just want something a bit more with your vodka, check out the cocktails featuring some of those flavored liquors or vodkas. For instance, for a while there was the Baba Yaga with chamomile vodka, liquore strega, lemon. A constant cocktail offering (and also $5 at happy hour) is the Moscow Mule with vodka, lime, homemade ginger syrup, ginger beer. I will count that for you as trying Russian vodka too and getting into the spirit of zakuski.
Kachka PDX Happy Hour drink of the Baba Yaga with chamomile vodka, liquore strega, lemon Kachka PDX Happy Hour drink of the Moscow Mule with vodka, lime, homemade ginger syrup, ginger beer

Now let’s look at some of the drinking food, aka zakuski. The much raved about “Herring Under a Fur Coat” cold zakuski is beautiful, and it seems to be the glamour shot that represents Kachka in most media avenues that I see Kachka mentioned in.
The famous Kachka PDX dish of the Herring Under a Fur Coat, a 7 layer dip but russian. and actually a salad, with herring, potatoes, onions, carrots, beets, mayo, eggs. The famous Kachka PDX dish of the Herring Under a Fur Coat, a 7 layer dip but russian. and actually a salad, with herring, potatoes, onions, carrots, beets, mayo, eggs.

I did love the dish, but I also highly enjoyed different mayo Russian salad, perhaps even more so then the Herring Under a Fur Coat. That mayo Russian salad I’m referring to is the Duck Olivier. This cold zakuski is a take on salat Oliver, a traditional Russian salad that as I learned from reading Mastering the Art of Soviet Cooking (you can read my review of that book here), has lots of variations representing regions and even the type of person you are (privileged, peasant, artsy dissident…) in Russia. This is the most popular salad in Russia.

This cold salad includes diced boiled potatoes, carrots, brined dill pickles, green peas, eggs, celeriac, onions, diced boiled meat – in this case duck, and all mixed with mayonnaise. Kachka’s version uses duck meat and crispy duck skin, and duck fat mayo. Um, yummm. Fantastic. This is the salat Olivier that is my gold standard to beat and measure all salat Olivier or any potato salad.

Kachka PDX cold zakuski of duck Olivier, a cold salad that includes diced boiled potatoes, carrots, brined dill pickles, green peas, eggs, celeriac, onions, diced boiled meat - in this case duck, and all mixed with mayonnaise. Kachka's version uses duck meat and crispy duck skin, and duck fat mayo Kachka PDX cold zakuski of duck Olivier, a cold salad that includes diced boiled potatoes, carrots, brined dill pickles, green peas, eggs, celeriac, onions, diced boiled meat - in this case duck, and all mixed with mayonnaise. Kachka's version uses duck meat and crispy duck skin, and duck fat mayo

The lesson with either of those Russian salads, whichever one you try, is don’t be afraid of the presence of mayo. As I was enjoying these two dishes (2 different visits), I thought about the book I read, and how containers were hard to find during the Soviet era, and so mayo jars were very commonly used to hold anything and everything. Mayonnaise, similar to sour cream, dill, stews and oven baked pies, are a critical part of Russian food.

For a simpler cold zakuski that is vegetarian, try the brindza pashtet, a sheep cheese and paprika spread with scallion served with lavash.
Kachka PDX cold zakuski of brindza pashtet, a sheep cheese and paprika spread with scallion served with lavash Kachka PDX cold zakuski of brindza pashtet, a sheep cheese and paprika spread with scallion served with lavash Kachka PDX cold zakuski of brindza pashtet, a sheep cheese and paprika spread with scallion served with lavash

Or feel luxurious and fancy with one of the Caviar & Roe dishes – the most affordable one is the House Cured Steelhead, but during my visit we went for the prettier Beet Cured Whitefish. All the Caviar & Roe dishes are served with yeasted blini, challah, chive, butter, and sieved egg to make your little piles of bite sized vehicles for the caviar. The Blini here are small and thin, lighter and almost approaching crepe compared to the more richer decadant pancake Blini of DaNet.
At Kachka PDX, feel luxurious and fancy with one of the Caviar & Roe dishes - the most affordable one is the house cured steelhead, but during my visit we went for the prettier beet cured whitefish. All the Caviar & Roe dishes are served with yeasted blini, challah, chive, butter, and sieved egg to make your little piles of bite sized vehicles for the caviar. At Kachka PDX, feel luxurious and fancy with one of the Caviar & Roe dishes - the most affordable one is the house cured steelhead, but during my visit we went for the prettier beet cured whitefish. All the Caviar & Roe dishes are served with yeasted blini, challah, chive, butter, and sieved egg to make your little piles of bite sized vehicles for the caviar.

When it comes to hot zakuski, in particular the Horseradish Vodka pairs perfectly with this dish Crispy Beef Tongue with citrus marinated rhubarb, roasted garlic, chive blossom, and buckwheat cracker. Similar to the Herring Under a Fur Coat and the Duck Olivier, I think this Crispy Beef Tongue represents what Kachka is all about – the homey weirdness of some traditional Russian cuisine but elegantly and expertly refined to a fine dining level fit for a czar.
Kachka PDX Hot Zakuski of crispy beef tongue with citrus marinated rhubarb, roasted garlic, chive blossom, buckwheat cracker Kachka PDX Hot Zakuski of crispy beef tongue with citrus marinated rhubarb, roasted garlic, chive blossom, buckwheat cracker

My favorite hot zakuski is the khachapuri, which is smoked sulguni cheese wrapped in dough, sort of like a pita quesadilla. It’s not as doughy or thickly cheesy comforting as an authentic Georgian khachapuri and the adjika is not nearly intense enough, but I can have this one with vodka anytime for dinner so I give points for accessibility and context for this take on the Georgian national dish. The more like a pita bread version here also has a slight crispness that is a great contrast to the oozy cheese, but be careful with your fingers as its less dough layers from that hot cheese to you too!
Kachka PDX Hot Zakuski of khachapuri, which is smoked sulguni cheese wrapped in pillowy dough -- like a crunchwrap and a cheese calzone had a lovechild. Kachka PDX Hot Zakuski of khachapuri, which is smoked sulguni cheese wrapped in pillowy dough -- like a crunchwrap and a cheese calzone had a lovechild.

You should not miss the melt in your mouth dumplings – be it the meat ones like this Siberian Pelmeni with Beef, Pork, Veal and Onion or if you get the vegetarian version of Tvorog Vareniki with Farmers Cheese and Scallion. Do not miss this, it is a must order.
At Kachka PDX do not miss these Russian Dumplings of siberian pelmeni with beef, pork, veal and onion and also on the happy hour menu! Kachka's tvorog vareniki, a dish of scallion and farmer’s cheese filled dumplings that are just melt in your mouth, and also on the happy hour menu!

There are only a handful of main dishes, which rotate in and out with new items. During the winter months, I was surprised to see a traditional dish called kulebyaka of multi-layered pie filled with black cod, red chard and crepes, served with creme „eurette. This is a time consuming dish – even at Kachka it takes 30 minutes to prepare from when you order. And it’s huge- enough to feed 2-4. I was glad I had a chance to try it while it was on the menu (it was rotated out in the spring menu).
Kachka PDX, a traditional dish called kulebyaka of multi-layered pie filled with black cod, red chard and crepes, served with creme „eurette Kachka PDX, a traditional dish called kulebyaka of multi-layered pie filled with black cod, red chard and crepes, served with creme „eurette Kachka PDX, a traditional dish called kulebyaka of multi-layered pie filled with black cod, red chard and crepes, served with creme „eurette Kachka PDX, a traditional dish called kulebyaka of multi-layered pie filled with black cod, red chard and crepes, served with creme „eurette

End your meal with some tea (or start with some if you come in on a cold windy rainy day like I did!). If you happen to come during happy hour, besides the pelmeni and vareniki dumplings which are both on the menu, there is also the option of the Red October with lamb meatballs, adjika, cheese all on a hoagie roll. It’s definitely the largest food item on the happy hour menu.
The biggest item on the Kachka Happy Hour menu is this Red October with lamb meatballs, adjika, cheese all on a hoagie roll.

Because you can order a la carte Kachka gives you control of how many dishes you fill your table with, or simply order the zakuski experience and let the kitchen fill your table on your behalf. Zakuski plates are mostly small to encourage a lot of sharing and trying of a variety of dishes. As you can see everything is plated beautifully and elegantly rather than home style casual, which provides an atmosphere of luxury on the plate contrasting with the humble around you in the restaurant decor. It’s a feel of public communal dining hall but you are given individual party privacy and elevated take that made me feel a bit like a peek into the nomenklatura or privileged class of Russia. I can’t think of a better place in Portland to celebrate the art of zakuski in such an upscale way.

As a coincidence, I saw the day before this post was scheduled to be published that Eater just created a “One Night” feature on Kachka, which includes video and gorgeous photos giving you a peek at one night at Kachka – take a look at One Night at Kachka here. Eater’s feature piece does include pictures of every single thing on Kachka’s menu, at least in May, and a video on how they make those delectable dumplings. Also, it’s just a super cool feature that takes advantage of the web (I recommend seeing it on a computer as the design doesn’t translate as well to mobile though it’s still better than most any other article you would read online in embracing telling a story using all the media available).

Kachka Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

What about you? Have you been to Kachka? Is there anything about Kachka that I’ve shared that makes you curious to give it a try? What did you think of the Eater feature if you perused it?

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DaNet, a Russian Dinner Party Popup

May 29, 2015 by 8 Comments

After the Sochi Winter Olympics in Russia in  2014, Vitaly Paley did a Russian pop up celebrating the Russian Sun Festival. It was incredible, and I was thrilled when he announced they would be doing DaNet, a Russian Pop Up experience in that same space (Portland Penny Diner) once or twice a month starting in September 2014 and ongoing. After holding off on attending until I completed the promise I made to myself to finish reading The Art of Soviet Cooking (I reviewed it as well), this past spring I finally was able to reward myself.

The DaNet dinner / Russian experience consists of 4 courses all at one seating at 6:30pm, where the food is served mostly family style. The cost is $75 per person plus gratuity, and you need to make reservations to secure your seat beforehand.

Although I found some articles at the Oregonian (“DaNet, Vitaly Paley’s Russian restaurant pop-up, takes us back to the USSR” by Michael Russell) and Portland Monthly (“Portland Monthly’s Cuisine of the Year 2014: Kachka and DaNet’s Russian Party” by Karen Brooks) praising the DaNet, there has been nothing recapping what the exact experience was – so I though I’d provide that service for you. That’s the freedom of writing as a blogger – I can go into the play by play details you wouldn’t find in newspapers and magazines (which is why I think news media and bloggers have a very complimentary relationship, not necessarily competitive). So here’s my recap from my experience on May 15, 2015. I believe that although the specific food items may sometimes change, the format is the same for each Russian pop-up experience.
DaNet palate cleanser between fourth and fifth (dessert) course of Beryozovy sok, a birch sap that tastes like a slightly, subtly sweetened water

The doors of Portland Penny Diner open promptly at 6:30. When you enter, check in your reservation at a table at the front. As a reward for checking in, they offer ayou choice of one of three beverages to help tide you over as you walk towards the back of the diner to one of 3 long tables.  I was immediately charmed by the apron upon walking in, and the welcome drink immediately shifted the vibe from a typical restaurant to a family gathering or party instead.
You are welcomed at DaNet, which pops up at the Portland Penny Diner twice a month, with a beverage as you check in your reservation name. I was immediately charmed by the apron just upon walking in You are welcomed at DaNet, which pops up at the Portland Penny Diner twice a month, with a beverage as you check in your reservation name. You are welcomed at DaNet, which pops up at the Portland Penny Diner twice a month, with a beverage as you check in your reservation name. I was immediately charmed by the apron just upon walking in

The Russian party concept is further reinforced as even before I can get past the first table, I am offered my first zakuski as a passed hors d’oeuvre, one not listed on the menu – it was some sort of fried dumpling, a kind of beef piroshky (or piroshki? I don’t know whether it’s an i or a y…).
DaNet, a Russian Dinner Party which pops up at the Portland Penny Diner twice a month. Fried beef piroshky is passed as people are finding their assigned seats DaNet, a Russian Dinner Party which pops up at the Portland Penny Diner twice a month. Fried beef piroshky is passed as people are finding their assigned seats

Meanwhile, as you walk through the long room, you can admire the tchotchkes lining the small countertop on your rightside. Real Russian traditional tchotchkes – all random decorative trinkets like nesting dolls and wooden lacquered containers that you wouldn’t actually use because they are too pretty to function. Well, except for the tea-set you see there – you will actually see that used later tonight. I always get a kick out of the political nesting dolls with Yeltsin, Gorbachev, Brezhnev, and Stalin.
Check out some of the tchotchkes along the countertop as you walk towards the tables of DaNet Russian Pop Up Check out some of the tchotchkes along the countertop as you walk towards the tables of DaNet Russian Pop Up- I always get a kick out of the nesting dolls with Yeltsin, Gorbachev, Brezhnev, Stalin

The various decorative tchotchkes all around are the epitome of the strange mix of the traditional Motherland Russia that are remnants of Imperial Russia, as well as the era of the red Soviet Union. Neither of these personify modern Russia and Union Soviet Socialist Republics, but they are still vivid memories and indelibly part of the culture now. On your left is an impressive DaNet ice sculpture. As you head towards the back, Soviet Union era posters are on the wall, as well as lots of candles and a few Russian cookbooks.
Check out some of the tchotchkes along the countertop as you walk towards the tables of DaNet Russian Pop Up DaNet ice sculpture on the bar at the Russian Pop up at Portland Penny Diner Soviet Union era posters along the back wall of Portland Penny Diner during the DaNet popup Soviet Union era posters along with some Russian culinary books along the back wall of Portland Penny Diner during the DaNet popup

As you walk past the tables, look carefully for your assigned seats for your dining reservation, marked by a little sheet stating simply “xxx Party” at each of the designated seats.
DaNet Russian Pop up Experience - find your assigned seats for your dining party at one of the communal tables DaNet Russian Pop up Experience - find your assigned seats for your dining party at one of the communal tables

Peruse the menus at your seat – one sheet lists the whole dinner so you can begin to fortify yourself for the big meal that is about to come. While the dinner menu refers to one course of “zakuski”, a second menu sheet lists the bounty of what that zakuski actually consists of and you will see that this one “drinking foods” course is actually more like 5 appetizers! You should expect this, as seems to be a Russian custom, you will be served dishes and dishes of food until you are completely and uncomfortably full.

On the back of the dinner menu are a list of optional (at extra cost from the $75 set dinner price) beverages. Should you want to partake in vodka (highly recommended), they have flights of regular vodka, as well as infused vodkas such as horseradish dill vodka, or elderberry vodka. If straight vodka is a bit intimidating (you can choose to share among your dinner party of course), consider the cocktails as the mix of other liquids in the glass help round out the punch of vodka. You can also choose instead to have a matching wine pairing flight with each course. A server will come to your table to introduce herself or himself, and take your drink order.

The first course are the zakuski, which are traditional drinking foods – aka this is the perfect time to get your vodka on. I prefer the flavored vodkas, which I think is a middle ground between the straight vodka (but the more authentic experience) and the cocktails. It is expected that you take little sips of the vodka, and bites of your zakuski.

Chef Vitaly Paley was our guide throughout the night, ringing a little bell his mother had suggested in order to get everyone’s attention before introducing each course and describing the individual food items. I wish he could have talked longer as we were eating each item so I could look and see and think about each food item as he was telling us the history of it, and more about how it was made. To me, this felt like more than just a chef listing what food was on the menu for each course, but like a tour that we were taking to a country we were not familiar with, done via food. So I kept wanting to hear more, not much different from wanting to hear the tales of the old country from your parents or uncles or grandparents.
Vitaly Paley was our guide through the courses at DaNet, the Russian Pop Up experience. Here he is chatting about the zakuski

Meanwhile, kind Chef Paley seems worried about us being hungry and waiting during these intros to the courses (except for the kulebyaka, which is is super proud to tell us about and introduce us to) and tries to not draw our attention too long with him talking. So he goes over details pretty fast so listen up when he speaks! He’s done quite  a few of these, yet still seems endearingly a bit nervous about the right amount of story to share. I understand a bit – he actually has a similar background to author Anya van Bremzen who wrote the memoir Art of Soviet Cooking I just read.  He too, immigrated from the former Soviet Union and was a concert pianist, but then ended up turning to cooking and excelling in it at an international level  (it is really weird that this is her exact story as well, though they come from different cities in former USSR. Not surprising to hear they are friends.). And from her memoir, it seems Russian immigrants have a complex love and hate relationship with the memory of the Soviet Union.

In fact, just look at the name of the popup overall, DaNet. Da means yes in Russian, and Net means no, so putting them together like DaNet (Да Нет) has a meaning of similar to “yes I agree, but no I also disagree, and even though you might think I am therefore neutral I disagree more than agree.” So the phrase together ultimately means no, a softer no than an outright no, and an illustration of the craziness of an everyday Russian phrase that uses two opposite words but still means something. Complicated, mixed feelings here! Anyway, on to the food recap!

First Course

On my dinner night, the zakuski included Solenya (Russian word for pickles), Ash roasted beet pkhali, Traditional Blini served with sour cream and dill, melted butter and seawater cured caviar (of course this was my favorite zakuski), Salade Olivier (a Russian salad with potatoes and vegetables and mayo and whose specific ingredients vary from family to family and is listed as one of the 1001 foods to die for, just like the Blini and Caviar dish). The acidity of the various types of Solenya (each one varying in sourness) were a great counterpoint to the richness of the heavier Salade Olivier and the rich Blini you assemble yourself. If you think you don’t like beets, try the ash roasted beet pkhali anyway as you may be surprised. The Blini pancakes are generously sized like medium pancakes!
Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Solenya (Russian word for pickles) Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Ash roasted beet pkhali Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Solenya (Russian word for pickles) and Ash roasted beet pkhali Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Traditional Blini served with sour cream and dill, melted butter and seawater cured caviar Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Traditional Blini served with sour cream and dill, melted butter and seawater cured caviar Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Salade Olivier

Nope, the list for the first course is still going, the zakuski also included buterbrodi, which are open faced sandwiches with butter and other toppings – we got four different kinds, of which I can no longer read my handwriting on what I wrote what they were – but all were delicious, and I have a little heart drawn next to the duck one (the one at the very top of the buterbrodi platter in the second photo – and the only one I got seconds of).
Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. We were served four types of buterbrodi, here being described by Vitaly Paley as Karen Brooks dutifully takes notes Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. We were served four types of buterbrodi Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. We were served four types of buterbrodi

As the second bonus of the night already (still on course 1 of zakuski here), Chef Paley had brought some special garlic sausages from his last trip to New York, and generously shared it with us at the dinner, served with a bit of horseradish. I was having a hard time fitting everything on my plate!
Vitaly Paley explained this bonus zakuski (not listed on the menu) was a special garlic sausage he had brought back with him from New York. It is served here with horseradish Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Solenya (Russian word for pickles), Traditional Blini (served with sour cream, dill, and seawater cured caviar), ash roasted beet pkhali, and salade olivier, and four types of buterbrodi (open faced bread and butter sandwiches). Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Solenya (Russian word for pickles), Traditional Blini (served with sour cream, dill, and seawater cured caviar), ash roasted beet pkhali, and salade olivier, and four types of buterbrodi (open faced bread and butter sandwiches). Here's a look at my favorite 3 zakuski

Second Course

Time for stew. For this dinner, it was Schi Bogatye and Kartorelkye Klyotski, a game broth and ash roasted cabbage stew with potato dumplings, with chives and herbs to add on top as garnish. The schi was served also with Buckwheat Rastegai (that bread with the hole at the top), and also Red Kraut Piroshki (those had no hole). The rastegai has an open center into which you traditionally could pour some of the stew – though in this case, it seemed the hole was too small for such an action.
DaNet Second course was Schi Bogatye and a Kartorelkye Klyotski, a game broth and ash roasted cabbage stew with potato dumplings. It was served also with Rastegai, and also Red Kraut Piroshki DaNet Second course was Schi Bogatye and a Kartorelkye Klyotski, a game broth and ash roasted cabbage stew with potato dumplings. It was served also with Rastegai, and also Red Kraut Piroshki DaNet Second course was Schi Bogatye and a Kartorelkye Klyotski, a game broth and ash roasted cabbage stew with potato dumplings. It was served also with Rastegai, and also Red Kraut Piroshki

It may just seem like soup with some filled dumpling bread on the side, but that schi has great texture, lots of layers of flavors, and is quite filling. And there were lots of extra red kraut piroshki on the side too – make sure you add a little spoonful of that side of sour cream to the schi.
DaNet Second course was Schi Bogatye and a Kartorelkye Klyotski, a game broth and ash roasted cabbage stew with potato dumplings. It was served also with Rastegai, and also Red Kraut Piroshki DaNet Second course offered lots of Red Kraut Piroshki - at my end of the table we added the sour cream to the Schi too

Third Course

Ooof, now time for the third course. I was already starting to get pretty full, but tried to soldier on with my comrades at my table. This was a significantly important  dish. I know this because Chef Paley became Professor and proud host as he read to us from 1,000 Foods to Eat Before You Die: A Food Lover’s Life List about kulebyaka, as mentioned in multiple Russian literature and food books before the big presentation. Then the kulebyaka was presented at each table for guest admiration and photos before being cut up for individual plating.
At DaNet, Vitaly Paley reads to us about kulebyaka before the big presentation of the DaNet Third course. Kulybyaka (King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings) is presented before it is cut for individual plate service At DaNet, Vitaly Paley reads to us about kulebyaka before the big presentation of the DaNet Third course. Kulybyaka (King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings) is presented before it is cut for individual plate service

I really wanted to take a photo as he was reading but felt bad about standing up to go to the kitchen area (only a few feet away), but thankfully Karen Brooks got up first, so I totally followed her. This is a really painstaking, ardous dish to make – Chef Paley confessed this took several days to prepare.
At DaNet, Vitaly Paley reads to us about kulebyaka before the big presentation of the DaNet Third course. Kulybyaka (King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings) is presented before it is cut for individual plate service

Tonight, the kulebyaka came as King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings. The inside of the kulebyaka was fabulous, but I was hoping for more buttery goodness from the pastry after Chef Paley had read to us about how Anton Chekhov had described that

“the kulebyaka must make your mouth water, it must lie there before you – a shameless temptation…butter drips like tears, and the filling is fat, juicy, rich…”

So being a lover of butter, I really was looking for some more butter. Of course, I am also the type of person who empties the entire butter container when eating lobster with butter, and can eat radishes with little pats of butter. The morels were exquisite, and I saved and savored them dividing them carefully among my bites along with the accompanying heavenly roll your eyes back sauce (I wanted twice as much) and crispy viziga crackling.

The viziga is a very rare specialty, the spinal cord marrow of a sturgeon. I don’t know what trials were needed to extract this (since exact specifications were not detailed in historical recipes, and a dish this gourmet like kulebyaka or viziga would have been viewed as czarist and a target of Soviet class warfare). I don’t know  what then further mysterious technique then would transform that gelatinous delicacy into these crackling vaguely reminiscent of the best lil nuggets of fried chicken skin… But it’s mouth magic.
DaNet Third course. Kulybyaka (King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings) DaNet Third course. Kulybyaka (King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings) DaNet Third course. Kulybyaka (King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings) DaNet Third course. Kulybyaka (King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings)

Fourth Course

After a little palate cleanser between the last and this course of Beryozovy sok, a birch sap (it tastes like water with a subtle sweet taste to it), came the dessert platters with tea service. The Chai black tea from Samovar comes with accompaniments like sugars and jam (!) to sweeten the tea.
Dessert course is served with Chai black tea from Samovar with accompaniments like sugars and jam to sweeten the tea

Four desserts! I don’t know if I got all these names right, so forgive me:

  • Baked Milk Ice Cream on a Stick (Toplyonoye Moloko Eskimo) – my favorite of the four
  • Bird’s Milk Cookies (Ptychye Moloko)
  • Rhubarb Jam Stuffed Donuts (Ponchiki S Varenyem)
  • Chef Vitaly Paley’s mom’s Cacao and sour cream layer torte (Steopka)

Dessert course includes Baked Milk Ice Cream on a Stick (Toplyonoye Moloko Eskimo), Bird's Milk Cookies (Ptychye Moloko), Rhubarb Jam Stuffed Donuts (Ponchiki S Varenyem), and Vitaly Paley's mom's Cacao and sour cream layer torte (Steopka), served with Chai black tea from Samovar with accompaniments like sugars and jam to sweeten the tea DaNet Dessert course includes Rhubarb Jam Stuffed Donuts (Ponchiki S Varenyem), and Vitaly Paley's mom's Cacao and sour cream layer torte (Steopka) DaNet Dessert course includes Baked Milk Ice Cream on a Stick (Toplyonoye Moloko Eskimo) and Bird's Milk Cookies (Ptychye Moloko)

The final and last time my plate was full of an assortment of goodness – it started and ended that way.
DaNet Dessert course includes Baked Milk Ice Cream on a Stick (Toplyonoye Moloko Eskimo), Bird's Milk Cookies (Ptychye Moloko), Rhubarb Jam Stuffed Donuts (Ponchiki S Varenyem), and Vitaly Paley's mom's Cacao and sour cream layer torte (Steopka), served with Chai black tea from Samovar with accompaniments like sugars and jam to sweeten the tea DaNet Dessert course includes Baked Milk Ice Cream on a Stick (Toplyonoye Moloko Eskimo), Bird's Milk Cookies (Ptychye Moloko), Rhubarb Jam Stuffed Donuts (Ponchiki S Varenyem), and Vitaly Paley's mom's Cacao and sour cream layer torte (Steopka), served with Chai black tea from Samovar with accompaniments like sugars and jam to sweeten the tea

You can make reservations now for DaNet, which it seems for the summer is scaled back to only popping up once a month – and June has already sold out 3 weeks ahead of time! To reserve your space for July or August, contact Imperial at (503) 228-7222. See the DaNet website for more details on dates.

If you have the opportunity, II really enjoyed the way that I set the experience up for myself- that is, making myself read the Art of Soviet Cooking before coming to this popup. Reading a bit before gave me a lot more context behind so many of the things I saw and ate (in particular, Anya has her first chapter in which she talks a great deal about kulebyaka). But, I also think this is a great Russian dinner experience even without the book. The communal adventure of sitting with others and meeting/talking with them while sharing dishes family style, together learning through the guide of Chef Paley, plus the expert technical culinary execution combined with the labor of love of this complicated food… This is a Russian party that you will be hard pressed to find unless you find some immigrant friends who are willing and able to spend so many days and so much time to create these all these dishes.

Have you had Russian food before?

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