Nodoguro Handroll Night

It’s hard to believe it’s been 10 years of Nodoguro in Portland – and I’ve been a huge fan since their first pop-up at the then Yakuza space and continuing to be a return diner every year through the years. A quick link list is at the bottom in case you want to browse some of the ones that made it into my blog in the past.

Recently I enjoyed my first hand roll night at Nodoguro which was an incredible experience as to be expected. This format is a little bit more casual in that you will create your own hand rolls rather than have multiple coursed dishes, but with the outstanding premium options you cannot go wrong with any combination you might try.
Nodoguro Handroll Night Nodoguro Handroll Night

As always, the atmosphere is impeccable at Nodoguro, with variations for the seasons and thoughtful fun details. I visited during March, before Easter.
Nodoguro Handroll Night Nodoguro Handroll Night

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Grand Amari brings the Amari and Italy to PDX

Grand Amari has just opened at the Hotel Grand Stark at inner SE Portland, offering a new premiere food and drink destination featuring old school traditional Italian flavors, from great ingredients that are highlighted simply by their pantry of almost a dozen incredible olive oils and paired with wines and stories of small producers so far out they may not even speak Italian, or ask for a suggested pairing from over 60 amari. The list is written to include stars to denote the amount of bitterness, and helpful flavor descriptions such as “cola, sasparilla, gentian” for Amaro Dente Di Leon, “sandalwood, cannibis, ginger” for Geijer Amaro, or “dark chocolate, espresso, allspice” for Meletti Fernet. Grand Amari is brought to you by the passionate nerds and visionaries of Olympia Provisions and Bar Casa Vale.
Tortelli with ricotta, sage, and delitia at Grand Amari Grand Amari pasta Cacio e Pepe with Candele pasta for chewy texture, and the noodles are extra long!

Grand Amari also has a sister bar at Little Bitter Bar which I will definitely be back for in July as they finish up their outdoor patio. I can’t wait to enjoy their spritz offerings in the sunshine. They offer three options of spritzes, with the lighter freshing Italicus, the more garden herb Carpano Botanic Bitter, or the stronger almost savory option of Zucca Amaro, with your spritz combination with prosecco and sparkling water. There are even more delightful sounding cocktails at the bar, which I will need to return to try, along with the pizza. For now, here’s a look at some of the dishes I tried from the menu at Grand Amari for dinner. Some of the dishes you will see mentioned here such as the aracini, fritto misto, carciofo arrosto, scallop crudo, tuna belly, and spaghettini pomodoro are also available as bar plates there.

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Nodoguro November 2022

Nodoguro is blissfully and officially back! As a long time supporter and diner of many Nodoguro dinners, I attended their pop-ups their summer with the Izakaya in the Canaries as I covered previously, and although I did not do a blog post I did put together an Instagram reel of the Nodoguro Lil Nashi brunch pop up also. Both of these events were at a borrowed space, but as reported by the Oregonian, Nodoguro has found a new permanent location. I was fortunate to be able to snag a reservation for myself at a November seating, and here’s a look at the new space and a re-visitation of the Nodoguro 3.0 dining experience. The menu may change quarterly or possibly monthly, depending on what Chef Ryan Roadhouse decides to do. For this visit the theme was Nurturing Your Kokoro.
Nodoguro November 2022 Nodoguro November 2022

The seating is one per night on mostly weekend dates, and limited to just a little more then a dozen people for approximately 2.5 hours of a dinner tasting menu that features snacks and composed courses made from the best of local northwest and Japanese ingredients and Nodoguro preparation that combines creativity and traditional techniques, plus a line up of omakase sushi bites and miso soup, dessert and tea. The space on NE 23rd is a little hidden, you have to walk down a lantern-lit pathway to the restaurant door.
Nodoguro November 2022 Nodoguro November 2022

Upon entering you find yourself at an initial welcome area, and a lounge to socialize with the other dining parties of the evening while possibly enjoying a welcome drink – here a Tamagawa Heart of Oak sake from Kyoto with nutty, toasty characteristics that was really well balanced – I could drink this endlessly and kept sipping it slowly to make it last. You can select from a pairing that included both wines and sakes, or beverages by the glass or a bottle. One of the updates Nodoguro has made that I really enjoyed and I think made it the best pairings from the dinners I’ve had so far is that the selection is all Oregon wines if it is wine, and they endeavored to select wines and sakes that are unique and not ones you can find normally on store shelves or on other restaurant beverage lists.

Doors open 30 minutes before the dinner service, and dinner service is at a shared countertop, though every course is plated and served to you individually. For this theme of Nurturing Your Kokoro, each seating came with an oracle card, and several us read aloud our cards, unique to each setting, to the table. Mine read “Flowers even bloom on grass that has been trampled.(Japanese proverb)”. I would prefer not to be trampled but good to know I will persevered and still blossom.
Nodoguro November 2022 Nodoguro November 2022 Nodoguro November 2022 Nodoguro November 2022

Snacks

Umami juice. Vegetables roasted then fermented with soft vinegar, this small starter cleansed the palate and was a bit reminiscent to me of a kombucha. The beverage pairing for the snacks is this crisp Mellen Meyer Brut Nature – Willamette Valley AVA. This Oregon sparkling wine producer was new to me and I’m glad for the introduction
Nodoguro November 2022 - umami juice

Duck, squash, and cranberry. Nodoguro serving up a a little Thanksgiving”, with the squash poached in sake and the beautiful perfect slices of duck. I wish Thanksgiving could really be duck instead of turkey like this. One of my favorite creative courses of the evening.
Nodoguro November 2022 - Duck, squash, and cranberry

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Amazing world influenced flavors at Grace Cafe

Grace Cafe has taken over the space formerly occupied by Delores and before that Smokehouse Tavern. Some of the remnants of Delores remain, most noticeably with the flamingos that the namesake mother Delores loved that are still seen on the walls. But, unlike the protein heavy Smokehouse Tavern, or rich heavy food of Polish inspired Delores, Grace Cafe is a gluten-free kitchen that sets the stage with a vegan or vegetarian preparation that you can optionally add proteins like Carman Ranch hanger steak, szechuan spied pork belly, Mad Hatcher chicken thigh, or Korean cured salmon. The stars now are the surprising combinations of global influences built upon the foundation of chef and co-owner Brian Han’s Korean heritage, merged with the health consciousness of California upbringing and restaurant experience in the Bay Area and Los Angeles until his move to Portland in 2020. The world influenced flavors at Grace Cafe really make it unique.

As an example, a signature dish found on both the lunch and dinner menu is the Purple Reign. This dish offers okinawan sweet potato with seared oyster mushroom, shiso chermoula, salted plum tzatziki, market greens, and avocado. That’s right, you can find Japanese sweet potato and shiso and salted plum combined with North African chermoula and Greek tzatziki sauce concepts.
Grace Cafe in Portland, Purple Reign. This dish offers okinawan sweet potato with seared oyster mushroom, shiso chermoula, salted plum tzatziki, market greens, and avocado. That's right, you can find Japanese sweet potato and shiso and salted plum combined with North African chermoula and Greek tzatziki sauce concepts Grace Cafe in Portland, Purple Reign. This dish offers okinawan sweet potato with seared oyster mushroom, shiso chermoula, salted plum tzatziki, market greens, and avocado. That's right, you can find Japanese sweet potato and shiso and salted plum combined with North African chermoula and Greek tzatziki sauce concepts

Meanwhile at dinner, where you will find more entree dishes then the bowl-centered lunch menu, the King Carnitas offers Thai green curry carnitas, yellow corn, rainbow chard, Mario’s sope, daily salsa. Somehow the different spicy layers of Thai green curry with Mexican works, tickling the tongue in different but complimentary ways.
Grace Cafe in Portland, King Carnitas offers Thai green curry carnitas, yellow corn, rainbow chard, Mario's sope, daily salsa. Grace Cafe in Portland, King Carnitas offers Thai green curry carnitas, yellow corn, rainbow chard, Mario's sope, daily salsa.

We also tried the Kabocha! a vegan dish with roasted kabocha, miso mole, black lime cashew cream, pickled red onions, pepitas. We both immediately thought how great a dish this would be during Thanksgiving. Thankfully the Grace Cafe team is two steps ahead of us. They are already thinking of sharing the immigrant experience by offering a Korean-American Thanksgiving with items like white kimchi water brined turkey, korean fried chicken with perilla ranch dressing, miso potato gratin, goji-cranberry sauce, miso potato gratin, Japanese curry green bean casserole, japchae inspired stuffing, black sesame coconut cream cornbread, and kabocha pie. YES I’M DROOLING ALREADY SIGN ME UP. Seriously where is the sign up sheet, I’m ready.
Grace Cafe in Portland, Kabocha! a vegan dish with roasted kabocha, miso mole, black lime cashew cream, pickled red onions, pepitas Grace Cafe in Portland, Kabocha! a vegan dish with roasted kabocha, miso mole, black lime cashew cream, pickled red onions, pepitas Grace Cafe in Portland, Kabocha! a vegan dish with roasted kabocha, miso mole, black lime cashew cream, pickled red onions, pepitas

But wait there’s more…

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Vegan Dim Sum at Ichiza Kitchen

About two years ago Ichiza Kitchen opened in the Goose Hollow neighborhood, providing something completely unique – Buddhist monk cuisine. No alcohol is served, and everything is non-GMO and vegan – any “meat” listed is faux. The seating is small and feels like an intimate hole in the wall- only about 25 or so people, in four-tops, although there are some picnic benches outside as well. Dishes come all at once as per the name Ichiza, which means “one setting” , a reference to the zen principle of stopping to contemplate one’s path.
Ichiza Kitchen

The best plan of action is to order lots of small “dim sum” like bites and a couple larger dishes to share. For small snacks to combine, look for the Chili Oil Wontons (wontons filled with vegan ‘pork belly and beef’ in a mixture of house chili oil, garlic, sesame oil, and garnished with cilantro and chive), the Shumai (‘money bag’ dumplings filled with vegan ‘shrimp’ and ‘pork’, dressed with a ginger and green onion sauce), and the Ba Wan Buns. We tried the steamed and grilled turnip cakes with shiitake mushroom dipping sauce too which you can see with the chili oil wontons, but I would not order them a second time personally as I found them dry on my visit. I wish we had ordered the Cheong Fun rice noodles or Kimchee Gyoza instead.
Ichiza Kitchen Shumai ('money bag' dumplings filled with vegan 'shrimp' and 'pork', dressed with a ginger and green onion sauce) Ichiza Kitchen Chili Oil Wontons (wontons filled with vegan 'pork belly and beef' in a mixture of house chili oil, garlic, sesame oil, and garnished with cilantro and chive)

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