Wildwood

This was my third visit to Wildwood, and as before, their seasonal menu had lots of items that intrigued me, and based on my sampling of my plate and some that were not my own, I stand by my original impressions. They are still executing consistently and their presentation and flavor profiles always a expert mix of complex and simple and beautiful but comfortable and approachable while learning new taste combinations. I believe this is one of the best restaurants in Portland, with impeccable friendly and knowledgeable service that looks and treats like a fine dining destination but feels intimate and casual, merging both a relaxing yet hip atmosphere that reflects the Northwest just like its cuisine; clean and understated with a nod to the environment and style.

Wildwood's seasonal specialty cocktail of a Pomegranate Caipirinha with cachaca, house grenadine, muddle lime, and regan's orange bitters. I would have expected this to be better in the summer. And served by the pitcher :X

Meanwhile, "An Apple a Day" was made with calvados, tuaca, fresh lemon, egg white, rosemary, and apple gastrique. Very light- I think I was expecting more of a cider taste to it.

On all the food though they were getting base hit after base hit. One hit out of the ballpark was the appetizer of puree of butternut squash soup's depth of flavor was elevated by the guajillo creme fraiche and toasted pumpkin seeds and the soft and fresh foccaccia bread plate was refilled 3 times to ensure it was all wiped clean. Also the bread was just good.

I'm not usually a salad person, but I liked my salad of winter chicories with grana padano, toasted walnuts and lemon-garlic vinaigrette. It was dressed just enough but yet all over- amazing sleight of hand in execution that is sadly often rare in restaurants.

The Draper Valley Farms Chicken Pot Pie with beecher's cheddar crust, smokey ham hock, turnips, alby potatoes and a surprisingly robust butter lettuce salad that could have been item on the menu itself was better than anything from home. The slow cooked fennel stuffed pork belly sandwich on a house made roll with pickled chile cream cheese, grilled onion, butter lettuce, and kennebec potato chips sounded like it should be overly rich (Portland kitchens love pork belly if you haven't noticed reading menus all over town), but they know how to trim to show off the best cut and taste here at Wildwood. The dining companion who always is able to hold herself back and take some of lunch home for later was the first to completely polish off her plate of grilled hawaiian ahi tuna with frisee, grilled prarie creek farm potatoes, san giuliano olives and lemon aioli.

My personal choice this time was braised cattail creek lamb stuffed crepes with carrot puree, sauteed lacinato kale, frisee, almonds, goat cheese and minted meyer lemon yogurt. The picture pretty much sums it up, with all those textures tastes on the human tongue of salt, sweet, sour, bitter and savory were blending together here. If only I had a spicy cocktail to go with this, I wouldn't have been able to ask for more.

I did end up with a spicy cocktail later after a wine tasting at Wine Unwind (an adorable wine shop with handwritten tasting notes on the wine bottles they have for purchase and they also have wine flights and music or movies to inspire a visit to a certain region's wine), followed by a very light meal at Olive or Twist so I wouldn't stumble home. A tuxedo'd Sinata-like singer crooned as I sipped The Peruvian, a martini with Mazama Pepper vodka, mango puree, and lime juice. It looked almost like it was healthy carrot juice with only a little jalapeno floating as a hint to the warm fire it held for me. What a really great day that was! 

 

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Waffles as wrapper = genius

One of my friends told me about this cart called Parkers Waffles and Coffee, and I had remembered seeing it by the Budget that I go to (I don’t own a car and sometimes when I need a car for a whole day, it makes more sense to go to Budget then use a Zipcar) down by the cart pods at 4th and Hall, just on the other side of PSU. I had a laptop meltdown at work, so I took my time getting into work today since it was at the help desk shop and rewarded myself with a lunch at this cart I would otherwise never get to (it has breakfast and lunch hours, closing at 2).

This is not the first waffle with something I have eaten- I’ve been to Roscoe’s in LA a couple times. But, this is different then the chicken and waffles thing. Here, a hot mess of your choice is grilled up and then a soft fresh waffle brushed with maple butter (optional) becomes the tortilla for essentially your giant waffle “soft taco”. This first try (because there will be others), I went for a breakfast feel with two eggs scrambled with ham, onions, mushrooms and Gruyere.

The insides were hot and gooey fresh ingredients, and the waffle was tasty just like a fresh hot tortilla would be to a taco- it added a bit of firmness and flavor but not overwhelming the guts of the ingredients inside- it was a great frame that kept the insides pretty well put together (better then a tortilla would). It looks like it would be messier then a taco, but it is wrapped carefully and firmly by foil and paper by the food cart chef with a smile, and it was so good that I greedily ate the whole thing while walking 5 blocks towards the Max and it was gone. Sometimes, it’s these simple things that are just so hearty and good that fill you with happiness. Grilled cheese, tacos, garlic fried rice- basic stuff that can be thrown together quickly and is like a palate and tummy hug.

Waffles as wrapper = genius, Parker's Waffles, two eggs scrambled with ham, onions, mushrooms and Gruyere

 

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Hakatamon Lunch

I've never minded tofu. In Indian curries, floating in bubbling Korean soup, stir fried in Thai and Chinese dishes, in a tofu scramble or veggie shepard's pie or a tostada, it just absorbs the flavor of the rest of the dish but presents an interesting texture. I'm a big fan of firm tofu, but in soups having it medium or silken is fine too- and I had no issue with it at LA's Tofu Festival.

When I was at Hakatamon's yesterday though, tofu was not only the main component, but the flavor profile. Their hiya yako appetizer is just homemade tofu with bonito shavings and scallion and ginger – and I actually found myself pushing the bonito shavings out of the way and just enjoying the clean taste of the tofu itself, and I didn't use any sauce either. The texture is extremely firm- almost like a tortilla espanola. It was a great counterpoint as I was sipping broth from my entree and waiting for it to cool enough to eat. So much better then the normal tofu appetizer of agedashi tofu- not only health wise, but because you can really appreciate the tofu instead of it being a sponge for sauce. 

For my entree I had the ramen. It was a great ramen dish, but I have to say, I am ruined for good ramen dishes because my sisters have taken me an incredible ramen place one in LA's Daikokuya. This broth here at Hakatamon is still super delicious, and without all the fat at the one at Daikokuya there kotteri style (a broth with back fat…). The noodles can't compare, but the pork here at Hakatamon just melted in my mouth so I think was superior to my experience at Daikokuya. And you know, is here in Portland instead of in Little Tokyo in California, and Hakatamon is much more approachable and low key- when we came in for lunch there was only one other table occupied and the vibe was clean and low-key, unlike Daikokuya's sign in sheet and ramen bar.

Onigiri never ceases to make me giggle at its cuteness

Next time I visit, hopefully I can try their sashimi- I was really torn as I read the menu, but figured that since it's January I would go for the warm comfort food this time as I have lots of nice weather coming up to enjoy sashimi!

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Other Cheese Sandwiches

As a followup of my other post, here's some food pron of other great cheese sandwiches, which is why Paragon's didn't make the top cut…

RIP Dreamer's Cafe vegetarian cart incredible pan fried cheese sandwich. Actually, the veggies varied depending on what he had on hand, so I've also had overly greasy/not balanced versions of this, but this first time I had it was grossly good. I mean, just look at it.

Tabor's muenster cheese is SUPER cheese as you can see. I love how it's swaddled so lovingly.

The original Grilled Cheese offered by Orange in Chicago (since has been re-worked):  roasted tomato slices, aged Cheddar cheese and caramelized onions on multigrain bread with the house potatoes. Gooey and delicious and I never got tired of it for several years it was a brunch staple. Notice the key execution needed here: browned burned crispy cheese edges.

And also here, at (back to Portland OR), the grilled cheese is surrounded by frico at the edges in Savor's execution of their grilled cheese bar.

 

I am anxiously awaiting a day to visit the Grilled Cheese Grill- look at all the possibilities! Even Rachel Ray knows that grilled cheese has many dreamily perfect possibilities in this grilled cheese highlights of the USA. After you've had a grown up grilled cheese, American cheese or any cheese that disappears in the middle just gets a passing grade, no matter how good the rest of the ingredients. 

 

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Comfort Food

There was one goal for going to Paragon Restaurant (an offsheet of a California chain that tries to do a American brasserie style restaurant)… a grilled cheese and tomato soup experience.

I was surprised that the cheese was not a bit sharper, or a more well known Tillamook cheese or Vermont cheese or any local cheese. The waiter explained that they made almost everything in house (homemade chips, relish, pickles… which were not part of this sandwich but another sandwich at the table). Well, this is probably something they shouldn't because it was ok but not outstanding. So the cheese sort of faded away, losing out to the fresh tasty massively thick bread which was a perfect mix of crunchy crust and doughy inside (which is not made in house but by a local bakery).

The bread was perfect for dipping into the excellent tomato soup (just add a little extra pepper- it was great with the grilled cheese, wouldn't pass on its own but since it did come with a sandwich there you go), though it got a little greasy since the bowl was so small and I had to tear the bread into small pieces to dip. Really it was more like cup of soup then bowl of soup, which was fine portion wise but I wished the lid was a bit wider (the depth was perfect for scooping out last little partial spoonfuls though it was best soaked in the bread). They were really generous with this plate- look how much side salad there is- that this $9.50 is not a bad deal as it gives you a full meal.

The salad dressed with balsalmic tried to provide an acidic counterbalance to the umami ooze of the grilled cheese and the sweet and saltyness of the soup with a bit of bitter mixed greens, but I missed the homemade pickle that came with the reuben but didn't come with the grilled cheese. Not the best grilled cheese I've ever had- and only because the bread and tomato soup were so good and the cheese did not hold up its end of the bargain in the taste department. If only I could transfer Savor Soup House's grilled cheese menu to here. Still a great grilled cheese plate overall though, and so close to being perfect.

 

Meanwhile, the calamari that a co-worker's wife recommended was fantastic- very light batter, those little rings went down oh so easy accompanied by the soy-lime ginger (the salty sauce) and the apricot-jalapeno (the sour sauce- don't expect any kick from the jalapeno). I'm not quite sure what the fennel was supposed to be doing, but that calamari was kicking it, crunch and slight chewyness but not too much, and no discernible grease factor.

 

 

The surprise for me on this outing though was the tastyness of the cocktails. The "laissez les bons temps rouler" drink with whiskey, cherry liqueur, ginger liqueur, absinthe and orange bitters and orange zest packed a real punch like you would imagine in older classic times- perhaps kick this back to loosen you up when you leave work? My "antioxidant elixar" drink with blueberry house infused Skyy vodka, pomegranate juice and lemonade was light on the alcohol, but really really delicious in flavor. It would be a great drink in the summer for a party. Another great drink was the "paso doble" with mazama infused pepper vodka, cointreau, mango puree, fresh lime and blood orange juice. The appearance is deceiving- it really has quite a little kick that makes your mouth smile. It looks like it should be fruity, but it has a decent fire that tickled the tongue briefly. I'm glad I didn't order it as it would have competed with the tomato soup, but it would be a perfect accompaniment to some of their other sandwiches.

 

I have to go now… a friend sent me a picture of her gorgonzola fries at Henry's Tavern, and I both want them and feel a need to work out to burn off some chloresterol… I've wanted to go to Henry's for a while, because they have a great beer selection from different microbrews. Now I know they also have this insane concoction. Mmm…

 

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