Pike Place Market wanderings + Dinner Spur Gastropub

I went to Seattle the other weekend because F had to work at the office there, and since he already had work paying for a hotel room, it seemed like a nice mini-vacation to just take the Bolt Bus up there to visit. It’s about 3 hours from Portland to Seattle depending on if there’s traffic may be more- the times of arrival of the bus tries to account for it so often the buses arrive early. The buses are new and include a charger for every seat and wireless, and fares can range from $1-$25 each way, depending on when you buy how full the bus is. So the cost was very minimal (you can go round trip for the cost of 1 way on Amtrak) and with no trouble for me at all to travel there since the pick up and drop off are not far from where I live. As an example, I bought tickets on Fri to go Sat-Sun for this trip and it cost me $49. For my future trip in Feb, I bought 2 tickets for Sun-Mon and it was $50 (admittedly, one of them was a $1 fare!).

In fact, I find the Bolt bus much more peaceful than the Amtrak, and unlike the Amtrak I never get stuck in awkward seats of 4 that face each other… though there also is no dining car to escape to since you’re on a bus. Unlike the Amtrak the Bolt bus arrives about 15-20 minutes before departure and boards by letter (sort of like Southwest), so actually has less lead time needed than the Amtrak coach where you have to line up for your seat assignment. The bus is also direct with no stops. I can’t speak for anyone who is tall on the leg space comparison- I know there is room to put bags in the seat in front on Amtrak but not on the bus.

I was only there in Seattle for 28 hours (from Saturday to Sunday- I still had full day of work Friday and Monday before and after), so it was a very fast visit. My motivations were romantic and out of pity because he sounded pathetic about how if he had known he would have told me to come with him, and since he doesn’t plan mainly so he wouldn’t end up sitting in his hotel room watching movies the entire weekend. Instead, on Saturday we watched the sunset from the 28th floor of his hotel as I shared earlier. And ok… so maybe his legs were tired from being on them all day while at the office on Saturday, so we did just get room service and watch random movies like The Grudge (only partially- once it got scary I went up to RView instead for cocktails and the view and left F), The Big Year (which I actually really liked but never would have picked to watch- hardly any action, just about ordinary people who are dorking out on a hobby and learning a bit about why people like what appears to have so much work and little payoff as a hobby), American Reunion, and Green Lantern.

On Sunday though, I had more aspirations. We had brunch first- I had a list of options for F and then we ended up at Bacco Cafe as previously covered. Then we visited Pike Place Market where I adored one vendor with cute stuffed dolls, including squid and little chickens by Adorable Seattle (the chickens i purchased are shown posed with my kitty at home), wandered to taste some interesting vinegars at DeLaurenti Specialty Food & Wine (and was jealous over the variety of fresh pasta offerings such as raviolis of crab, lobster, beet, drunken sweet potato…, and cheeses at Beecher’s (you might even see them making the cheese) and Mt Townsend Creamery (love their truffle cheese). Next, after walking past the disgusting Gum Wall, we spent some time at the Seattle Aquarium where their exhibit lets you really see the otters, and I found a great otter wristlet for me to use during the spring/summer, before resting our feet at Pike Brewery.

My intention was to have a few small plates at Spur Gastropub and then the dessert, which I remembered as being really interesting last time I visited. However, since it took 30 minutes to even get our first small plate, and I had to catch the Bolt Bus leaving at 8pm so wanted to leave the restaurant by 7 (after getting there at 5:45), we did not have time. As it was, I only had a few bites of the entree (F skipped because he had eaten at out previous stop Pike Brewery) before I asked it to be wrapped up to go.

We started out with the Tagliatelle with duck egg,, oyster mushroom, and pine nut, which I wish the pine nut had been more mixed in because even after I broke the egg and mixed, all the pine nuts were in the slight indentation of the plate so never made it into the mix and were discovered when there was barely any pasta left. What fared better was the Baby Beets salad with chevre, flaxseed, and coriander. The entree of Mad Hatcher Chicken with pear, hedgehog mushrooms and watercress started out with the skin crispy but the actual meat dry until I dunked that chicken into the gravy. I thought it actually tasted better as a leftover the next day as the gravy had all soaked into the chicken, though the skin had lost its crispness on reheating.


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Bacco Cafe at Pike Place Market

Back to my recent weekend in Seattle.

There were so many brunch options I had picked out for Sunday morning in Seattle- but of course we can’t visit them all in one brunch. Among the options I presented to F included Portage Bay Cafe for their fruit bar, Skillet Diner because they have bacon jam, and Toulouse Petit for their French-New Orleans offering, but all these were greater than a mile away and he was still sore from being on his legs all day while working in the Seattle office. So I yelped options closer to us that included Cafe Campagne for their French brunch take, Library Bistro because someone talked about how they felt like Belle in Beauty and the Beast, and I was using my smartphone to browse and we were impressed with the mobile version of the Library Bistro website and I wanted to reward them for it, Sweet Iron that specializes in waffles and Biscuit Bitch which specializes obviously in biscuits, but…

He went with Bacco Cafe Pike Place Market because after our meal we could then wander the Pike Place Market for a while, and also visit the Waterfront. It is a tiny little cafe that is mostly known for their Dungeness Crab and Smoked Salmon offerings (including in omelette, benedict, and sandwich form) and various fresh fruit shakes.

Note that although their address says they are on Pine, we ended up having to walk back up to 1st street and Pine for their breakfast food- the address they list seems to be more for their bar area downstairs that is part of the rest of the plaza and isn’t entrance to the space they were using for breakfast/brunch.

Bacco Cafe at Pike Place Market’s hot oatmeal with seasonal fruit and steamed milk and brown sugar served in little vessels on the side. He thought it was thoughtful that the steamed milk was already warm so as to not make the oatmeal cold. I had the specialty of Dungeness Crab Benedict, with dungeness crab meat, two poached local free range eggs, hass avocado with hollandaise sauce on multigrain english muffin served with herb roasted potato. I thought my dish was ok- plenty of crab, but it seemed underseasoned. I wish I had had a little lemon- maybe they forgot or were rushed, admittedly we did get our order very quickly, I think in 10 minutes of ordering it.

They make the fruit shakes right there (you can watch them putting in the fruit into the juicer). Both of us enjoyed our fruit shakes- mine with strawberry, banana, pear and apple was not as tart as his with grapefruit, lime, and kiwi I think?


Bacco Cafe is a tiny place with 6 counter top seats and about 10 two-tops I think (there is a nice area outdoors to eat that offers more tables but isn’t used when the temperature if around freezing like it is now). So I was surprised there was no line at 11:30, though as it approached lunchtime the place began to fill up but even then it was maybe a 20 minute wait (and this was for larger groups of 5-6 that were showing up). It seems they have a downstairs area as well which we walked past on our way to try to find the front door of this place, but it was closed off. Bacco serves breakfast all day (from morning to mid afternoon, they close before dinner) everyday, so you don’t have to come get that Dungeness Crab bennie only during brunch on the weekends. If you want a break to sit down and warm up by the market, this would be a nice hidden retreat from the other crowds for some coffee or shakes to regain energy.

We’ll be back in February to attend Pike Brewery’s annual chocolate and beer pairing event dubbed Pike Chocofest, so I’ll have the opportunity again to try one of the other brunch places I found. We found out about the Chocofest event last year but I had to travel for work, so I missed it but we decided to try it this year. We won’t need to wander the Pike Place Market area though during our next visit (though we will likely stay in this area again for convenience to Pike Brewery)- we did lots of wandering in this area next after brunch, to be covered in the next post…

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Sunset in Seattle 1/12/13

From the RView in Seattle, watching the sunset out the window of their lounge with an Anjou Pear martini with Grey Goose, Germaine, pear nectar and pineapple juice and complimentary bar snack.

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A brunch at Lola’s in Seattle

Tom Douglas, I don’t know how you keep doing it, but bless you for all the scrumptiousness you bring with your restaurant empire in Seattle. This time, we went to his outpost of Lola for a Sunday brunch.

Below, you see Tom’s big breakfast, a mix of roasted corn, walla walla onion, green beans, poached egg, garlic yogurt, toast, and Mediterranean octopus. And, they are generous with that soft tender octopus.They call it big breakfast, but you don’t feel uncomfortably full from it either, it almost seems healthy. Well, probably before the toast with butter and the potatoes I ordered extra on the side…

It seems simple, just a scramble, but the flavors and textures give you tickle of your taste sensations. Seasoned wonderfully, it explodes and swirls on your tastebuds as a a mix of sweet and savory and spicy with octopus as tender as scallop and crunchy caramelized onions and green beans  and bursts of corn kernals, and then the ooze of yolk from the egg and also some cool creaminess from the greek yogurt to tame the stimulating sensation with all this. You can compose each of your spoonfuls (and you bet I ate this with a spoon) to be this.

Tom's Big Breakfast octopus hash Brunch at Lola, Seattle

Meanwhile, my friend had the Greek scramble with feta, tomatoes, basil, bacon, smashed garlic potatoes, toast. The feta was a great touch of saltiness for the egg. We were drawn to Lola’s in the first place by the Smashed garlic-fried potatoes, which we were surprised given how well flavored our two dishes were, how bland these potatoes were. She added salt and pepper to hers, while I let my get swirled around on my plate to absorb the Tom Big Breakfast seasoning.

Greek Scramble Brunch at Lola, Seattle

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A Chef’s dinner at Mistral Kitchen

After arriving earlier that day in Seattle, meeting up with Amy, and attending the Cider Summit and visiting the Great Wheel and killing some time on Fremont, it was finally time for our special delicious date. All day we had been carefully trying to hold ourselves back from eating (which we wanted to do everywhere, to a point where we didn’t quite know what to do with ourselves if we couldn’t eat as part of the activity) to save ourselves for this meal experience, a fine dining meal that lasted from 7 to almost 10:30 pm.

We were seated in the white tablecloth portion of the restaurant, an area (along with the Jewel Box dining area) that is located from the hostess stand to the left, past the pizza oven. The pizza oven anchors the far edge of the main open kitchen, which is part of the elongated rectangle space of Mistral Kitchen, and you see upon entry. There are even seats at counters overlooking this kitchen bar, Meanwhile the drinking bar is located further in, basically at the heart of the restaurant, with the countertop blending in from stools that overlook that kitchen to stools that overlook the work of the mixologist. This long bar ends right before stairs leading up (just 6 steps or so) leading to a slightly elevated level of small lounge areas and the restrooms.
Mistral Kitchen, Seattle, chef's dinner Mistral Kitchen, Seattle, chef's dinner

Meanwhile, in our area, there is also an open kitchen, but one that fits one chef (we were introduced to chef Heidi) who works in the large square around her, preparing the meal only for this section with the exception of dessert. All the tables here can watch her work, though based on the way the seating was placed, not everyone has a view. To actually see the detail on the pans on the stove rather than her plating and prep work on the counter top that faces outward, you have to basically approach the station… or like I did, keep leering up to peer and think about running away with some of the ingredients piled all prepped in clear plastic containers (especially with the cheese wedge…).

Instead, the prime area to the kitchen station is an open area where there are coffee and expresso machines that would be approached by the staff to use once in a while, although they also take up window space that  is almost directly across and to the side of one of the 3 sides. At our booth, we were actually closest to the kitchen, since we were directly located aside that third side (with the last side being the wall), as you can sort of see here. In retrospect, I can’t believe even though I thought to take food photos, I did not take any of us, you know, people, with our food or with the chef kitchen area. I am not sure what that says about my idea of what to capture visually for memory. Well, she didn’t either- yet we thought of doing so earlier in the day at the Great Wheel. Hmm. Food is so distracting.

We started out with saffron infused buttered popcorn and champagne, and then an amuse bouche of a tomato pepper garlic with olive oil gazpacho (perhaps a little too much garlic as it burned slightly). The waiter had shown us a list of fresh ingredients they had on hand for the kitchen that evening and inquired about any love or hate preferences, as well as offered an option for an additional starting cocktail though he warned us there was already a lot of alcohol with the pairings to come. We decided to pass on opening with a cocktail to keep our palate fresh, as this was just the prologue.
Mistral Kitchen, Seattle, chef's dinner, saffron infused buttered popcorn Mistral Kitchen, Seattle, chef's dinner, amuse bouche of a tomato pepper garlic with olive oil gazpacho

Then, our first course of the 9, which started out by the waiter putting down a very cool chopstick holders in the form of a silver poke chopstick rice. And then, we were presented with a beautiful big eye tuna with grapefruit, avocado, microgreens, thinly sliced beet. I would have preferred the fish not sitting on the olive oil so I could enjoy the taste of the beautiful fish without muddying it with the olive oil. Since eating the fish at Sushi Dai by Tsukiji Fish Market in Japan, I’ve found myself more of a purist with raw fish now. Paired with a pinot gris.
Mistral Kitchen, Seattle, chef's dinner Mistral Kitchen, Seattle, chef's dinner Mistral Kitchen, Seattle, chef's dinner, big eye tuna with grapefruit, avocado, microgreens, thinly sliced beet

Second course was I believe both of our favorite for the night, this gorgeous and large Maine Diver Scallop. The scallop was seared perfectly and tasted wonderfully smooth and soft and silky yet just fleshy enough, with forkfuls of the last of juicy summer tomatoes and basil and pesto and a bit of paprika parceled out between to cleanse the palate before more of that gentle scallop… That scallop felt as good in your mouth as it does to sniff and kiss a freshly bathed cute baby’s cheek as he/she giggles- you just want to keep doing it. I could and would eat a whole plate of just those scallops for any meal. The Prager gruner veltliner was the pairing with this, one that we both immediately tried to commit to memory (or I tapped into a note on my phone) so we could seek this wine out again.
Mistral Kitchen, Seattle, chef's dinner, Maine Diver Scallop

Third course continued our array of seafood with Alaskan Halibut with potatoes in both crispy and softer form atop green beans that I could not help but admire the knife skills it took to prep, I think this was paired with a Rose. This buttery dish was good, but after the flavor pop from the scallop with the pesto, it seemed paler in comparison with its lack of bursts of flavor thanks to its more quiet approach.
Mistral Kitchen, Seattle, chef's dinner, Alaskan Halibut with potatoes

Fourth course, since we opted out of the Hudson Valley Foie Gras (earlier when asked about our preferences while overlooking their ingredients list), chef Heidi replaced it with this thick pork belly with roasted figs and caramelized onion to still provide decadant richness before the “break” that we had been told about. Being from Portland, of course we love love pork.
Mistral Kitchen, Seattle, chef's dinner, thick pork belly with roasted figs and caramelized onion

One of the “courses” was a tableside cocktail prepared by the bar manager Matt Bailey, this one was violet and smoke with lots of basil essential oils infused. This is a strong sipper… I wish in retrospect that we had asked for a cocktail that was more brighter, like a plate cleanser after the richness of the pork belly. It was hard to fit this into the meal arc.

Mistral Kitchen, Seattle, chef's dinner, tableside cocktail

We relaxed for a while, sipping the cocktail, until the waiter came over (chef Heidi was just waiting in the kitchen) asking if we were ready to proceed. And so we continued to course 6, my second favorite of the dinner, the Anderson Ranch lamb atop farro and with scattering of Amaranth, paired with an amazing 1996 Bordeaux which made me wish we had received more reds during our meal- something to consider to mention and ask, even if you are open minded about trying anything the kitchen wants to prepare. Meanwhile, the seasoning and smokiness of the sear of the lamb was perfect, producing a crispy edge to each slice that was echoed in the firmness of the farro and tiny amaranth, all serving to highlight the soft strips of lamb sirloin.
Mistral Kitchen, Seattle, chef's dinner, Anderson Ranch lamb atop farro and with scattering of Amaranth

Finally, the cheese course, the last course Heidi prepared for us, and then shortly after the kitchen station here was replaced by one of the other prep chefs in the main kitchen, apparently preparing fried rice for everyone to eat. It was Pierre Robert cheese, a triple creme that is like butter. This is where the port was poured and was supposed to carry us through the dessert courses, but the port was very sweet and I wished we had something lighter like a white dessert wine. I do like ports, but typically with tiramisu or chocolate.

This same port just didn’t seem to complement or contrast the next course with a muffin of banana nut with semi freddo, more roasted caramelized fig, and a very tart sorbetto over the crunchy crushed walnut. At this point we were really getting full- although Amy mustered the fortitude to do this dish justice and polish it clean. The finale was a little parfait of a mousse, almond crumble, and then a pearl… something. Hey, this was many glasses of wine (and that cocktail) in. Neither of us were a fan of the orange on top, which tasted somewhat mushy and sour that reminded me of ferment. Except for the fruit on top, this was a wonderful end that felt light but was a good texture to end with.
Mistral Kitchen, Seattle, chef's dinner, Pierre Robert chees Mistral Kitchen, Seattle, chef's dinner, muffin of banana nut with semi freddo, more roasted caramelized fig, and a very tart sorbetto over the crunchy crushed walnut Mistral Kitchen, Seattle, chef's dinner, parfait of a mousse, almond crumble

<3 <3 Thank you again Amy for such a wonderful experience <3 <3

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