Japan Travel: Japanese Treats at Temples and Shrines

January 26, 2016 by 5 Comments

I wanted to highlight some of the mysterious snacks and treats you may see when you are looking at food stalls nearby a temple or shrine. You won’t necessarily find all of these at a particular temple or shrine, but usually you will find some. This is not a full list- just my personal favorite Japanese Treats at Temples and Shrines.

The big motherlode is at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, an area in Tokyo, because it boasts Nakamise Dori Shopping Street that almost everyone passes through from Kaminarimon Gate to Hozomon Gate to get to the actual main hall and other buildings. Another great area to look is in Kyoto, in the Higashiyama shopping street between Yasaka Shrine or Kodaji Temple and Kiyomizudera Temple,  also called Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka.

Dango

Dango is a doughy ball served on skewers. In most cases, the dango are each chewy like mochi usually brushed with a sweet sauce. They are usually slightly smaller than the size of a ping pong ball. There are multiple dango balls on a skewer. In some cases the dango are all the same, but there are also multi-colored pink white and green ball that may appear all on a stick too. I’ve also had a black one which was made with black sesame, a Mount Takao specialty.
Black Sesame Dango, a Mount Takao specialty

In most cases the dango are also warmed slightly by a charcoal fire or grill so that parts of it are crisped up a little but on the outside on one side. It may be a modest fire like these
Getting a little crisp edge to the dango, a chewy Japanese dumpling and sweet made from mochiko (rice flour) that are served skewered at a Mount Takao stand Getting a little crisp edge to the dango, a chewy Japanese dumpling and sweet made from mochiko (rice flour) that are served skewered at a Mount Takao stand

Or in the evening a little bit more dramatic with the flames.
Dango stand near Sensoji Temple, this stand was on a side street Dango stand near Sensoji Temple, this stand was on a side street

They are usually plain when they are skewered by the fire, and then when you order a skewer, get the sauce brushed on and may get a quick extra warmed up closer to the heat for a few moments to glaze it slightly.
Brushing the sauce on dango, a chewy Japanese dumpling and sweet made from mochiko (rice flour) that are usually serve skewered at a Mount Takao stand

They are usually very chewy and have a napkin to wipe your face since the sauce may got on it!
Chewy saucy dango, a Japanese dumpling made from mochiko (rice flour) on a skewer. This was almost like a sweet bbq sauce from a Mount Takao stand Chewy saucy dango, a Japanese dumpling made from mochiko (rice flour) on a skewer. This was almost like a sweet bbq sauce from a Mount Takao stand

There is one exception to this, which I have found on Nakamise at Sensoji. You’ll recognize this famous stand by the pink and bunny theme. Even though this is an exception, I always top and get it. Here, the dango are much smaller, more the size of marbles. This is Kibi-dango, a variation of dango made with millet flour. From this same stand you can enjoy with warm sake called Amazake that is very sweet and low alcohol. Here, I caught a few photos of the ladies rolling the kibi dango in the flour. Afterwards, since the flour is still a bit loose they serve the dango in a pink envelope with the white bunny logo on it. I highly recommend with Kibi dango to have it with a beverage as the flour coating instead of a sauce makes it more dry.
Kibi-dango is a variation of dango made with millet flour, which here you can enjoy with warm sake called Amazake that is sweet and low alchohol from the same store on Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa Kibi-dango is a variation of dango made with millet flour, which here you can enjoy with warm sake called Amazake that is sweet and low alcohol from the same store on Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa Kibi-dango is a variation of dango made with millet flour, which here you can enjoy with warm sake called Amazake that is sweet and low alcohol from the same store on Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa Kibi-dango is a variation of dango made with millet flour, which here you can enjoy with warm sake called Amazake that is sweet and low alchohol from the same store on Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa

Ningyo Yaki

Ningyo Yaki is a cake filled with sweet red bean paste. You will often see it in the shape of various buildings or animals.
ningyo-yaki (red bean-filled buns moulded into various shapes using iron pans over a fire) in varoius shapes! ningyo-yaki (red bean-filled buns moulded into various shapes using iron pans over a fire) in varoius shapes!

If you are lucky, you will see it being made fresh, either with an iron mold pan by hand, or by an automated machine!

By hand with a mold pan (at Sensoji Temple) – the man will first pour in the dough, add the bean, and then pour more dough on top and then place the mold on the small flames- he was super fast! You can see all the molds he is working with on the right as they are cooking to the right.:
Making Ningyo Yaki (red bean filled busn molde dinto varoius shapes using iron pans ove ra fire) - the man will first pour in the dough, add the bean, and then pour more dough on top and then place the mold on the small flames- he was super fast! Making Ningyo Yaki (red bean filled busn molde dinto varoius shapes using iron pans ove ra fire) - the man will first pour in the dough, add the bean, and then pour more dough on top and then place the mold on the small flames- he was super fast!

Automated (at Himeji Castle):

At this particular machine (I won’t tell you how long I stood at the window, just fascinated each time I come across these…) there are two brushes on the right side of the machine that brush the inside of the molds – each mold’s side gets brushed. Then as it turns counterclockwise, the molds get dough squirted into it, then the sweet bean pellet is added. I couldn’t see all the way around so I’m not sure if then there is a second squirt of dough to cover the sweet bean before the mold is closed.
Automated Ningyo Yaki Machine. On the right side, you can see two pipes that brush the inside of the mold, and then the machine will squeeze the dough into the molds, On the other side the bean is then added, and more dough on top then the molds continue to circle, cooking it on one side until it is flipped by that lever you see on the right to cook on the other side! It ticks more counterclockwise until it gets to the lever on the right which will open and dump out the ningyo yaki

What I do know is then it clicks forward counterclockwise until the mold reaches a lever on the left side, around the 8 o’clock mark. Then, the lever flips the mold over to cook on the other side until around the 3 o’clock mark in the machine, a lever opens the mold and then a claw retrieves the hot now fully cooked cake.
In this ningyo yaki machine, it automatically does the entire process in an automated fashion. The crane carries the cooked cake to the machine on this right side to cool and get packaged down the little slide of plastic you see. On the left you can see the brushing inside the mold and then the squeezing of dough to the left of that

Then, the claw drops it perfectly each time into a new smaller machine that times the cooling of the cake and then slides it into plastic to be individually wrapped.
Automated ningyo yaki machine. The crane on the right side carries the cooked cake to the machine on this right side to cool and get packaged down the little slide of plastic you see. On the left you can see the brushing inside the mold and then the squeezing of dough to the left of that

Since these photos were taken by Himeji (a famous Japanese castle), no surprise that the ningyo yaki looks like a mini castle! When we purchased this, the man ran around the machine to give us a fresh, still warm one.
Himeji Castle shaped Ningyo Yaki - Ningyo Yaki is a cake filled with sweet red bean paste. You will often see it in the shape of various buildings or animals.

Manju

Manju is a batter (usually flour, rice powder and buckwheat) stuffed with some sort of filling (usually sweet red bean paste of boiled azuki beans and sugar). At Nakamise Dori, I was surprised to find more creative fillings, such as cherry, custard, pumpkin, sweet potato, green tea and more. Below, I got a Sesame Manju.
Manjū (饅頭?) is a popular traditional Japanese confection. There are many varieties of manjū, but most have an outside made from flour, rice powder and buckwheat and a filling of an red bean paste, made from boiled azuki beans and sugar. This stand at Nakamise Dori has many creative fillings beyond just sweet red bean Manjū (饅頭?) is a popular traditional Japanese confection. There are many varieties of manjū, but most have an outside made from flour, rice powder and buckwheat and a filling of red bean paste made from boiled azuki beans and sugar.

Nikuman

Nikuman is a smaller version of Chinese buns. They are steamed, and may be filled with meat or other fillings. They are served quite hot, often right out of the steamer, so definitely be carefully biting into it – the floury doughy soft bun may seem warm, but the inside can be piping hot.
The many snacks being made fresh that you can purchase while walking in the Higashiyama District - we stopped for these Nikuman, or steamed buns because there is a beef burdock one and also a bean green tea vegetarian one The many snacks being made fresh that you can purchase while walking in the Higashiyama District - we stopped for these Nikuman, or steamed buns because there is a beef burdock one and also a bean green tea vegetarian one

You will probably recognize it by the wooden steamer trays stacked on top of each other
Nikuman - steamed bun filled with meat and/or other ingedients. This beefy one was juicy by Himeji Castle Nikuman

For instance, I found these in the Higashiyama District – we stopped for these buns because there is a beef and burdock one and also a bean and green tea vegetarian one!
The many snacks being made fresh that you can purchase while walking in the Higashiyama District - beef and burdock one The many snacks being made fresh that you can purchase while walking in the Higashiyama District - beef and burdock The many snacks being made fresh that you can purchase while walking in the Higashiyama District - bean green tea vegetarian one The many snacks being made fresh that you can purchase while walking in the Higashiyama District - bean green tea vegetarian one

Menchi Katsu

Menchi Katsu is a breaded and deep fried cutlet or croquette, usually meat but it could be another protein (in Kyoto we had the vegetarian options of potato or tofu skin).

This meat one below shown from near Sensoji Temple at the stand Asakusa Menchi (you will probably recognize it first by the line) is the best version I’ve ever had, famous for being particularly juicy / greasy depending on your point of view and they use a rare breed pork called Kouza-buta (Kouza pork) from Kanagawa.
In line for famous Asamen's Menchi Katsu, a breaded and depe fried cutlet or croquette Very juicy and flavorful fried pork thing - apparently Menchi Katsu, a deep fried breaded cutlet - found at Asakusa, near Sensoji Temple

I also found some while walking in Higashiyama shopping street towards Kiyomizudera Temple in Kyoto- they had filling options of Kobe beef, soy milk skin cream, and Japanese potato croquette.
As a snack in the Higashiyama District, we purchased some croquettes to energize us for our uphill walk to the temple - they had kobe beef, soy milk skin cream, and Japanese potato croquette As a snack in the Higashiyama District, we purchased some croquettes to energize us for our uphill walk to the temple - they had kobe beef, soy milk skin cream, and Japanese potato croquette

Senbei

Senbei are Japanese rice crackers. There are a huge variety of senbei out there – some are sweet, salty, spicy, or savory, in all sorts of shapes and sizes and flavors. They are usually baked or grilled over charcoal. The mnst common ones you see are round, and may have a little square piece of seaweed wrapped around it and be shiny from a soy sauce glaze.

What has made senbei probably most famous is that they sell them to feed the deer at Nara. There is even a place where they throw large senbei like frisbee and the nburn down a mountain!?? Japan Talk has a webpage listing some interesting senbei trivia.

I admit I don’t necessarily seek out senbei because it makes me thirsty, and that makes me drink, and then I might have to use a public toilet and who knows if it will be the nice ones with buttons or a squat one (although at least unlike China they provide a nice handle on the wall to keep your balance). But I wanted to highlight an interesting one I found in Kyoto, on Higashiyama just across from the entrance to the Kodaji Temple. It was the aroma and seeing them being made fresh that caught my attention. Fresh senbei is always superior to packaged ones.
Senbei store where we observed it being made fresh in Higashiyama District. This senbei has been produced since 1864 and is still hand baked the exact same way. These are different in that they utilize broad bean, wheat, flour and an egg.

This one, according to a helpful English index card in the window, has been produced since 1864 and is still hand baked the exact same way. These are different in that they utilize broad bean, wheat, flour and an egg. The craftsman was super cheerful and welcoming even as he kept working the whole time. He uses those bags to pie in dough, but that rectangle in front of him is an oven full of broad beans that are being roasted – you an see some of the beans there on the cloth and paper in front of him. He scoops the beans from the big pot to his left and into drawers of the oven. Senbei store where we observed it being made fresh in Higashiyama District. This senbei has been produced since 1864 and is still hand baked the exact same way. These are different in that they utilize broad bean, wheat, flour and an egg.

We sampled all the different kinds and the bag we bought did not make it out of Japan because we ate it all.
Kyoto Senbei made with broad bean

Amazake

Amazake is a sweet warmed sake. It is made out of fermented rice and Koji (a special cultured rice – it’s bringing the important fungus that will break down the carb of the rice to sugars) so the sweetness comes naturally, not from any sugar.
Amazake that is sweet and low alcohol from the same store on Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa Amazake that is sweet and low alcohol from the same store on Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa

It is poured from the pot where it is still kept warm.
="Amazake

The texture is almost like an almond milk. There may be a lot or just a little of the rice left in the beverage.
Amazake that is sweet and low alcohol from the same store on Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa Amazake by Kiyomizudera Temple's fountains

It might be made out of white rice, brown rice, or even black sesame (which I found as a specialty at Mount Takao). It is low in alcohol, so even kids drink it. When it’s chilly out, it’s a nice warm drink that is more substantial than just tea.
Black Sesame Amazake at Mount Takao

Which of these treats caught your eye as something you would stop for? Have you had any of these before? Is there a Japanese Temple or Shrine snack I missed?

Here’s a summary of my Japan Travel post series:

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Japan Travel: Hagoita Ichi Winter Festival at Sensoji Temple

January 19, 2016 by 5 Comments

When visiting anyplace on vacation, I always look at the local events calendar to see if there are any festivals or special happening during my trip. This has lucked out in me finding out about third Friday art walks, or a small town parade, or a local festival occurring. For my trip to Japan in December, besides coinciding with Christmas and New Year’s, it turned out that the first few days we were in Tokyo would also be during the Hagoita Ichi Winter Festival at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa.
Hagoita Ichi at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, takes place December 17-19 annually Hagoita Ichi at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, takes place December 17-19 annually

Japan has many festivals all year round, and some are very localized to a region or even a town or neighborhood. The Hagoita-Ichi is an annual festival held in Asakusa, which is an older neighborhood in Tokyo. Asakusa is considered part of the old neighborhoods in Japan because it has a more traditional atmosphere and doesn’t have the bright lights and stores like you would find in more bustling modern areas. The district has also been around even before it was part of Tokyo, such as in the 1600s where in the Edo period it was an entertainment district and still considered outside the city limits.

Today Asakusa is most famous for Sensoji Temple, although it is also the area for Tokyo Skytree and Kappabashi Street (a street of stores dedicated to the food industry including a chance to view and buy the plastic food replicas). Sensoji Temple is Tokyo’s oldest temple, founded in 645 for the goddess Kannon. When entering the temple you will go through the main gate, called the Kaminarimon, or Thunder Gate. It was built in 942 and erected at this location in the Kamakura period (1192–1333). Here, you will find a giant red lantern that everyone will be walking under while on either side Fujin the Shinto god of wind and Raijin the Shinto god of thunder look on.
Kaminarimon Gate, the first gate of Sensoji Temple. The god of thunder is standing on the left and the god of wind on the right. You can also see a special sign on the left noting the Hagoita-ichi
Kaminarimon Gate, the first gate of Sensoji Temple. The god of thunder is standing on the left and the god of wind on the right. You can also see a special sign on the left noting the Hagoita-ichi

Meanwhile, this giant lantern serves as a symbol for Sensoji Temple, Asakusa, and Tokyo. The gates here have unfortunately been burnt several times so they are not original. The lantern you will pass under is a restoration that in 2003 was donated by Panasonic and is maintained every 10 years. You can also see because of Hagoita Ichi there is a special sign to the left noting the event during my visit.
Sign at Kaminarimon Gate for Hagoita-Ichi The famous giant lantern at Kaminarimon Gate, the first gate of Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, Tokyo.

Right after passing through the gates you will then see a shopping street called Nakamise Dori. Alongside Japanese souvenirs you’ll also see lots of different traditional local snacks being offered by the vendors. You can see special decorations above the crowd like an extra large New Year’s ema board with the monkey (for the Year of the Monkey) and also the paddle for Hagoita-ichi thanks to the time of year of my visit.
Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa - you can see special New Year's ema board with the monkey (for the Year of the Monkey) and also the paddle for Hagoita-ichi decorations above the crowd Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa

If you follow Namakise Dori down, you will reach the second gate, Hozomon Gate, beyond which is the temple’s main hall and a five storied pagoda as well as other halls.
The Hozomon Gate at Sensoji Temple is the second gate, beyond which is the temple's main hall and a five storied pagoda. The Hozomon Gate at Sensoji Temple is the second gate, beyond which is the temple's main hall and a five storied pagoda.

It’s a lot more spread out past Hozomon, so you can enjoy the beauty of the temple without being so packed together with people like on Namakise Dori. You might see near the Main Hall people getting fortunes. They have English ones too if you want to try your luck. If you get a bad luck fortune, follow the others in tying your paper to the metal wires they have so it will wait here instead of attach itself to you. If it’s good, you can also tie it here so it has stronger effect, or take it with you. Other sights may be people gathering to breathe in the incense smoke to ward off illness before entering the Main Hall to offer prayers.
Moon rising over the Main Hall of Sensoji Temple Moon rising over the Main Hall of Sensoji Temple
Moon rising over the Main Hall of Sensoji Temple

If you walk just to the left/west of the Main Hall, you will find several other halls that house various images of Buddhas or other disciples.
In Sensoji Temple, Asakusa In Sensoji Temple, Asakusa In Sensoji Temple, Asakusa In Sensoji Temple, Asakusa

The Five Storied Pagoda is hard to miss.
Five Storied Pagoda in Sensoji Temple, Asakusa Five Storied Pagoda in Sensoji Temple, Asakusa

There are some great specific Japanese snacks you can find on Nakamise Dori – I’ll highlight that in next week’s Travel Tuesday post. We did run into some tents of food vendors that are not usually here but were present because of Hagoita Ichi just outside Hozomon Gate. They are typical of the food vendors that set up stands just to the outside of the temple during festivals.
Some of the food just outside Hozomon Gate at Sensoji Temple for Hagoita Ichi Some of the food just outside Hozomon Gate at Sensoji Temple for Hagoita Ichi
Some of the food just outside Hozomon Gate at Sensoji Temple for Hagoita Ichi Some of the food just outside Hozomon Gate at Sensoji Temple for Hagoita Ichi Some of the food just outside Hozomon Gate at Sensoji Temple for Hagoita Ichi

We also took some time to admire all the 50 some vendor tents of the Hagoita-Ichi, which is held annually from December 17-19th, 9 AM – 9 PM. Hagoita means wooden paddle or battledore, and although traditionally used to play a game called Hanetsuki that’s similar to badminton, the paddles you see at Hagoita Ichi are ornamental.
Hagoita Ichi at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, takes place December 17-19 annually Hagoita Ichi at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, takes place December 17-19 annually

They are often painted, and then handsewn and stuffed for a pillowy effect to the decorative characters of kabuki actors, women in gorgeous detailed kimonos, gods and goddesses, symbols of the new year like the incoming year of the Monkey, or other celebrities.
Hagoita Ichi at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, takes place December 17-19 annually Hagoita Ichi at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, takes place December 17-19 annually Hagoita Ichi at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, takes place December 17-19 annually

If you look carefully you’ll see basketball players and soccer players, even an ice skater, Hello Kitty and Doraeman!
Hagoita Ichi at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, takes place December 17-19 annually Hagoita Ichi at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, takes place December 17-19 annually "Hagoita Hagoita Ichi at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, takes place December 17-19 annually

The Hagoita are considered good luck charms that apparently are a “board to bounce back evil.”
Hagoita Ichi at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, takes place December 17-19 annually Hagoita Ichi at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, takes place December 17-19 annually
Not all the vendors sell hagoita although most of them do – there are also other New Year auspicious decorations at a few, such as handpainted kites – so gorgeous. All the colors were so spectacular.
Kite vendor at Hagoita Ichi in Sensoji Temple, Asakusa

Admission to the Temple is free, and is a definite must visit if you are in Tokyo, whether there is a festival going on or not in my opinion. This is an extremely popular temple, but the crowds are manageable and orderly, and there is so much to see in terms of Japanese culture that is old and new all in one place.

Have you been to Sensoji Temple in Asakusa? Have you seen photos of that famous Sensoji lantern before or heard about this temple? What do you think of the Hagoita?

For more details on Sensoji Temple or Hagoita Ichi, I used these references:

Here’s a summary of my Japan Travel post series:

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Tokyo Weekend: Visits to Asukasa, Harajuku, Shibuya

March 18, 2012 by 1 Comment

The next morning I waded through the crowds cheering on the Tokyo Marathon to go to an area of the city called Asukasa. There, my goal was to see Kaminarimon Gate- bright red colored gate with its 100 kg (220 lb) lantern in the middle- as well as what was past its gate, Sensoji temple. The path to the temple from the gate is Nakamise Dori- a temple market pedestrian walkway lined on both sides with tiny stall after tiny stall, many owned by the same family for generations.

On my way to the main temple, I was drawn in by the bunnies and the cuteness of this one pink stall. They are selling some sort of treat on a stick…skewered sticky round balls rolled in some sort of powder that you had to eat all three at the same time because they were sorta glutinous. When I took my first bite I tried to just eat one ball and it stretched and popped some of the powder into the air onto my coat… and in the air and slight breeze towards other people. Oops. That’s when I noticed how everyone else was eating by putting the whole thing in their mouth. For an additional 100 yen have some warm sweet sake too to wash down the powder.

More treats for sale on Nakamise dori, a pedestrian lane leading to Sensoji Temple in Asakusa. Lots of local snacks and little things to buy. I wanted to try ningyo-yaki (red bean-filled buns moulded into various shapes using iron pans over a fire) but they came in too many pieces for me to buy and then find out I didn’t like it. I did like watching them make it though- there were two stalls that I found showcasing the man pouring in the dough, adding the bean, and then pouring more dough on top and then placing on the small flames- he was super fast!

I did get what you see below, a bean paste filled sesame bun thing I ate… I guess it is called manju?

I’m a bit of a lemming when I’m exploring- there was a long line at one stall when I passed by, and then on the way back there still was a long line… so I got in line too for whatever treat this was. Famous meatball place apparently- and the fried meatball patty thing was very juicy and tasty. It was so juicy it dripped on my scarf a little bit as I was eating it nom nom nom nom nom

After visiting the temple, and then off to the Meiji shrine, I headed to Takeshita Dori, the teenage fashion street of Harajuku. After seeing several girls walking by me with crepes, and then a long line of crepe waiting peeps… yes, I got in line. I decided to go with the one in the first row third over- strawberry strawberry. I found out what it was called because someone else ordered it and the crepe guy called it out, fortunately… their plastic displays and posters had no discernible numbers to order with. I did do a double take on one type of offering though. Uh what, you put a whole cheesecake slice in there and then surround it with whipped cream!?

You would think after this that I would be sick of being in crowds, but I had another stop after a quick nap (and to rest my feet). When it got dark, I headed on the train to Shibuya Crossing, the nicknamed Times Square of Tokyo for both its busy traffic of commuters day and night and multiple bright screens flashing to advertise to them. After walking through the crosswalk in the herds a few times, I then spent 30 minutes wandering lost but admiring the many neon signage everywhere until I found my goal. I went to Coco Curry House for dinner where I got level 4 heat curry with chicken katsu and mushroom. Thanks for your tips baby J!

One more tip from baby J to explore… a Monday at Tsukiji Fish Market and delicious sashimi and sushi…

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