Japan Travel: Japan Eating Checklist

There are multiple types of Japanese food categories you should consider putting on your Japan Eats list when you travel to Japan. Here’s my recommendation for 25 Top Japanese Food Experiences, aka a Japan Eating Checklist, including some photos and links recaps of those meals to encourage you.

If there is a place in Portland that has a similar dining experience, I will also include it on this list in italics in case you are curious but aren’t going to Japan yet. You’re welcome.

Before getting to my Things to Eat in Japan list, there are two books in particular that I highly recommend reading if you are foodie heading to Japan. First, is What’s What in Japanese Restaurants: A Guide to Ordering, Eating, and Enjoying by Robb Satterwhite. I carried this book wherever we went in Japan.

What I found valuable about this book is that it is divided into chapters based on the type of cuisine, and it has a full listing of possible menu items you might see. Each menu item includes the transliteration into a Roman alphabet of a dish so you can pronounce it to a server, a Japanese character version of the dish to point to a server or to try to guess if looking at restaurant menu, and then the translation/description of the dish and ingredients used. This came handy several times even when there were English translated menus at a restaurant so we could see what something listed as “ginnan” is (ginkgo nuts it turns out). Very practical.

The other Japanese foodie book that had me drooling and inspired is Rice, Noodle, Fish: Deep Travels Through Japan’s Food Culture by Matt Goulding. You don’t need to take this book along with you on the trip, but it’s great reading beforehand that gives history behind food and context behind some of the best food experiences in Japan with profiles behind restaurants, chefs, cities, and specific types of Japanese food. It is also just plain great storytelling and food writing. Reading each chapter is like a written version of a food and travel show in print.

Then, after getting the background, go to the accompanying free Roads and Kingdoms digital guide that lists out specific places to go to experience the food story yourself. Their curated list of where to eat and where to drink is seriously foodie legit.

Ok, here’s my ranked Top 25 Japanese Eating Experiences Checklist you should consider for your trip to Japan.

  1. Kaiseki Dinner, such as in a ryokan like we did is completely unique to Japan, admittedly can be a bit pricey but is so memorable. There is something you can only experience in Japan about sitting on a tatami mat in a yukata enjoying private room service with a table full of so many dishes like a buffet, before or after enjoying a soak in a hot spring. It will make you feel like the royalty and nobility that kaiseki originally was intended for.
    Traditional Dinner in our room at our ryokan Wakakusa no Yado Maruei, there were so many plates I would take a photo and then she'd be back with another dish to add! She mostly spoke Japanese so it was a bit mysterious eating each dish because I didn't know what everything was.
    Alternatively or additionally, you can also consider a kaiseki experience at a restaurant, including kaiseki which may be specialized such as ones that feature tofu like the one we had at Tousuiro, or ones that are completely Buddhist Vegetarian (also known as Shojin Ryori) like the one we had at Tenryuji in the Arashimaya area of Kyoto.
    Tousuiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. This is the can have seafood version of the first course
    You should not be surprised at all to hear that if you want to eat the closest thing to kaiseki in PDX, I recommend that you should look to Nodoguro, which I have written about many times. Although they won’t serve your little dishes all at once like at a ryokan, they are the closest in crafting creative a similar experience, course by course like at a kaiseki restaurant. Another option for kaiseki in Portland is Chef Naoko, she does traditional Japanese presentations in red lacquered bento boxes, and she offers lunch too not just dinner.
  2. Sushi Breakfast near the Tsukiji Fish Market. This remains the best sushi and sashimi I’ve had in my life because that freshness and quality is difficult to beat, no matter how quickly any other sushi restaurant acquires their seafood because this is the premier fish market in the world. My version of this iwas dining at Sushi Dai, which I recapped here but there are many super fresh places in the Tsukiji area you can find without having to necessarily wait for hours or getting frustrated walking around lost trying to find a particular place.
    sashimi, Sushi Dai, Tokyo, Japan, Tsukiji Fish Market
    I say the closest to this kind of quality sushi you can get is through Nodoguro’s Hardcore Sushi Omakase. Another option is Fukami Sushiya which also does omakase.
  3. If you’re in Kyoto, definitely try tofu, especially Yudofu or Yuba, because Kyoto tofu is the best tofu in Japan and possibly the world. Yudofu is a hot soybean curd dish where you add some sauce and toppings and showcases it’s fresh and clean flavors. I highlighted Kyoto tofu in a previous post. In general, always ask and look for local specialties wherever you travel in Japan. Particular in Japan, they are not shy about promoting and they take pride in what is unique and special to their area.
    Yudofu - we stopped at a restaurant just below the famous stage at Kiyomizudera by Otawa Waterfall's 3 streams. Yudofu is a hot soybean curd- it was a bargain for 2 people at 800 yen I thought. You carefully remove a piece from the hot water with light flavoring, and then in your own individual bowl add condiments like green onion or sauce
    Although they don’t offer cooked tofu dishes as they are not a restaurant, in PDX my favorite tofu source is Bui Tofu and F loves the prepackaged lemongrass tofu they offer. 
  4. I am pretty sure that at least 4-5 times a day we were stopping at the Japanese drink vending machines to get a beverage. I am so sad that in the US we don’t have anything like this on all the street corners like Japan does. Even when we were climbing Mount Takao, somehow many drink machines had been hauled up there to hydrate all visitors. The red labeled drinks mean that it is hot, and the blue labeled drinks mean they are cold. Not all of the containers may be drinks like water, tea, juice or coffee – some may be beer, sake, even curry or soup so look carefully! The machines usually either take money as well as you can just scan your transit card, which is very cool.
    The well loved drink machines that were everywhere in Japan, even partway up a mountain! Vending machines everywhere with beverages, but the Boss ones are my favorite
    In the US, I haven’t seen this kind of machine except in Hawaii. The closest you can get is to buy the iced coffee cans at Uwajimaya
  5. I have yet to have Tonkatsu, or a fried breaded pork cutlet, usually a filet or loin, in the US as good as what I’ve had in Japan. I think in Japan that they do a better job of sourcing high quality pork for the dish such as Kurobuta, also known as English Berkshire pork that is marbled with fat so it doesn’t dry out. I’ve had versions so flavorful and juicy I ate them with no sauce. The coating as you can see is thick, but it’s not greasy or oily.
    Tonkatsu, or a fried breaded pork cutlet that is so flavorful and juicy that I them as is without any sauce because the pork was sourced so well and was marbled
    In some cases besides the pork cutlet you can also get a combo that includes a minced patty or shrimp, sometimes you can also get chicken, cheese, and crab meat croquettes. Either way it is always served with a lot of shredded lettuce, miso soup, a few pickles, and rice. This so crispy outside and succulent inside is only good when fried fresh –  don’t shortcut to prepared boxes of Katsu at the store because it won’t be the same. However, just like me, once you have the perfect kind in Japan, you may be ruined for all other paler imitations in the US of tonkatsu now.Combo plate at Tonkatsu restaurant in Tokyo
    Unfortunately I don’t have any tonkatsu place that I can recommend in Portland – do you know of one? I know a few places offer it as a single dish (not different options of Tonkatsu where you can select from different pork or other items that are also fried in the same batter coating), but nothing that stands out to me… No one has that above perfect crispy coating texture that I’ve seen? One spot on my list to try offering Tonkatsu is Pono Farms, has anyone been? I’ve also enjoyed the potato croquettes at ramen stop Kizuki (formerly Kukai). The batter isn’t the same but you can reliably get pork Tonkatsu at Chef Naoko’s Shizuku
  6. Crepes in Japan can be found everywhere, but most famously in Tokyo in the trendy youthful fashionable neighborhood of Harajuku. The crepes are formed in a way that is mind boggling what they roll into there – not just fruit and whipped cream and chocolate sauce, but think also multiple scoops of ice cream, even a slice of cheesecake. It is more decadent that the flatter crepes on a plate inspired more from France, which is usually what you find in the US. In Japan, they roll the crepe all up in a cone of paper for you to eat instead of on a plate with silverware, which is fun. Famous stands like Angels Heart offer 75 different options to choose from.
    Too full for a crepe at Angels Heart in the Harajuku neighborhood of Tokyo, but I had to pose Famous Harajuku Crepes - yes there are a lot of combos, just 75 here at the famous Angels Heart crepe stand
    Meanwhile others like these from Momi & Toy’s in Tokyo Station offer classic as well as unique flavor combos, like the chestnut and pistachio crepe, and always reliable strawberry and cream before shopping Tokyo Character Street.
    I got a strawberry and cream crepe from Momi and Toy's at Tokyo Station chestnut and pistaschio crepe from Momi and Toy's at Tokyo Station before we (mainly me) shopped Tokyo Character Street
    Why are there not more options I’m Portland for this awesome dessert… I know of Mojo Crepe at SE 82nd and Division only offering Japanese style crepes in cones. Stop by and encourage them!
  7. Make an effort when in Japan to try Japanese Snacks along the street, especially by temples and shrines, like I covered in my previous Japanese Treats at Temples and Shrines post. Since that was a whole checklist in of itself, follow the link over there for more details though my favorites tend to be Dango and Amazake which are pretty ubiquitious.
    Chewy saucy dango, a Japanese dumpling made from mochiko (rice flour) on a skewer. This was almost like a sweet bbq sauce from a Mount Takao stand Amazake by Kiyomizudera Temple's fountains
    I don’t know of any equivalent in Portland unfortunately for the snacks except to visit a Japanese supermarket like Uwajimaya.
  8. Unlike most of Asia, there isn’t a strong street eating culture in Japan, so you won’t usually find food carts or outdoor food courts with open air eating from multiple vendors. So, if you are visiting and there is any kind of festival going on, make sure to stop and enjoy as there will likely be food booths at a Japanese festival!
    Some of the food on the way out of Meiji Shrine on the way to the Harajuku train station entrance on New Year's Day to feed the crowds coming from Hatsumode Japanese Chestnuts, freshly roasted Some of the food on the way out of Meiji Shrine on the way to the Harajuku train station entrance on New Year's Day to feed the crowds coming from Hatsumode Some of the food on the way out of Meiji Shrine on the way to the Harajuku train station entrance on New Year's Day to feed the crowds coming from Hatsumode Some of the food on the way out of Meiji Shrine on the way to the Harajuku train station entrance on New Year's Day to feed the crowds coming from Hatsumode Some of the food on the way out of Meiji Shrine on the way to the Harajuku train station entrance on New Year's Day to feed the crowds coming from Hatsumode Some of the food on the way out of Meiji Shrine on the way to the Harajuku train station entrance on New Year's Day to feed the crowds coming from Hatsumode Some of the food on the way out of Meiji Shrine on the way to the Harajuku train station entrance on New Year's Day to feed the crowds coming from Hatsumode Some of the food on the way out of Meiji Shrine on the way to the Harajuku train station entrance on New Year's Day to feed the crowds coming from Hatsumode Some of the food on the way out of Meiji Shrine on the way to the Harajuku train station entrance on New Year's Day to feed the crowds coming from Hatsumode
    The next closest thing in Portland is to try to attend one of the Japanese festivals that sometimes occur such as the annual January/new year Mochi Festival August/summer Obon Festival. Travel Portland has a great list of Japanese American events.
  9. I’m not sure any explanation is necessary on why you should try ramen in Japan. There are so many styles and it varies by all the various prefectures, so even traveling from city to city in Japan you should check out the ramen. Variances include what exactly they do to create the broth, flavorings of the broth, type of noodle, what they do in creating the homemade noodles, and types of toppings offered that result in a huge matrix of possibilities. I cheated a bit and we went to the Ramen Museum as I posted about earlier in order to get a bunch of different ramen but all in one place, so that was a ramen theme park approach. Other options would be to visit a ramen street, such as at Tokyo Station or Kyoto Station to get access to multiple ramen places at once.
    The first ramen place we decide to try at Shin Yokohama Eamen Museum is at the shop Ryu Shanghai Honten, whose trademark is in its super-fat noodles folded over 32 times and that their spicy miso ramen is topped off with a scoop of the raw, spicy-hot miso Sumire which didn't offer vegetarian ramen. They are famous for their Miso Ramen, but I hit the wrong button and got the shoyu and didn't realize it until the ramen got served... oh well! This shoyu broth was still super delicious, and these were my favorite noodles
    In PDX, for authentic Japanese I like Marukin Ramen inside the city if you just want to focus on ramen (I covered all their ramens here), and Kizuki (formerly Kukai) in Beaverton for ramen along with additioanl izakaya dishes like rice balls, takoyaki, fried croquettes, etc. or Mirakutei if you want ramen and sushi or modern Japanese tapas like I had this visit. For inauthentic, I like Boke Bowl and make sure you get the buttermilk fried chicken with mustard aioli add on along with the slow poached egg and the pork belly – that’s the combo I always use since I’ve been a fan sice when they were still a pop up at Decarli and pop up at Oba.
  10. In other noodle news, you should consider having cold soba with a dipping sauce, which is called Mori Soba rather than when the noodles are already in a broth. Generally these restaurants will also offer udon. I prefer the soba with the dipping sauce because the soba noodle is served cooked and cold which helps me taste the noodles better, and is comforting without heating you up because of hot broth like ramen does. The most common broth accompanying the dish is in the first photo, Tsuyu, a broth/sauce made from mirin, dashi, and soy sauce that you add your desired amount of wasabi and scallions before dipping. For that particular dish (Zaru Tanuki Tororo Soba) it also came with tanuki which means served with tenkasu, crunchy bits of leftover fried tempura batter, and also tororo, gelatinous grated yam. The zaru designation means that the buckwheat soba noodles in the basket comes with seaweed on top.
    Zaru tanuki tororo soba, buckwheet soba noodles with seaweed on top (zaru soba) and a bowl with Tsuyu (a broth/sauce made from mirin, dashi, and soy sauce that you add wasabi and scallions to). Then there's tanuki which means served with tenkasu, crunchy bits of leftover fried tempura batter. And here we can also try tororo, gelatinous grated yam.
    This second version is my favorite version, Kurumi Soba which comes with a walnut miso dipping sauce. At the end we’re given a small container of warm water left from cooking the soba to add to the leftover Dipping Sauce to optionally finish the eating the sauce as a soup.
    soba restaurant for our last meal in Japan at the Haneda Airport. This was a cool soba dish that came with a walnut miso dipping sauce - Kurumi Soba
    I don’t know of any soba specialty restaurants in Portland, do you? The closest is Yuzu in Beaverton which offers 5 soba dishes. 
  11. If you are open to a little alcohol, check out yakitori izakayas, or drinking pubs featuring skewered charcoal grilled chicken. Yes, you can find yakitori also in the US, but I found the experience in Tokyo has a grit that just can’t be replicated. There’s something that feels so urban underworld about the famous izakaya alleys where there are multiple of these hole in the wall grilled meat and drinking joints, each one lit by a red lantern such as at Omoide Yokocho also known as Memory Lane or ‘Piss Alley (Go Tokyo has a great list of Yokocho). In reality you are more likely sitting with salarymen than yakuza though.
    Omoide Yokocho, Memory Lane or Piss Alley with or lots of little izakayas for drinking and eating yakitori, marked by red lanterns Omoide Yokocho, Memory Lane or Piss Alley with or lots of little izakayas for drinking and eating yakitori, marked by red lanterns Omoide Yokocho, Memory Lane or Piss Alley with or lots of little izakayas for drinking and eating yakitori, marked by red lanterns
    You should know that first and foremost these are drinking establishments, so order a drink! The food is a accompaniment to drinking, and don’t be surprised when you get thirsty eating as it is salty food. At some yakitori bars you are given a small dish or snack/otoshi that you did not order – it’s their way of justifying the forced per seat minimum charge. You should also be prepared to smell like smoke when you leave, and in some cases its’ a common bathroom outside because the bar itself is so small, fitting only a dozen people. Be also aware that there are lots of interesting meat types that may be on skewers so be cautious of just pointing at Japanese characters on a menu or chalkboard without a translation…
    Be also aware that there are lots of interesting meat types that may be on skewers at a yakitori drinking establishment so be cautious of just pointing at Japanese characters on a menu or chalkboard without a translation.
    You should definitely to make sure to get some chicken though there are also some vegetable options such as ginnan (gingko nuts) and egi (leeks). Many of the top chicken can be found at yakitori, as they may advertise the chicken DNA is heirloom or more than half native, and from small farms and free range – there are even specific regions that may be referenced that the chicken is from.
    Yakitori means chicken meat on skewers but it can include vegetables too like ginnan (gingko nuts), leeks, mushrooms and more My yakitori spread - the mayo-y pasta dish compulsory appetizer went really well with the smokey savory meats
    For yakitori in PDX I know of Biwa‘s and Shigezo / Maru, although the skewer selection is smaller than a Japanese dedicated yakitori place, and it feels too nice in there to be too boisterous like you would in a yakitori alley. But plus, it’s not in an alley!
  12. Whenever we were going on a hike like up Mount Takao or wanted to pack along snacks in our bag to carry with us, our constant companion was Onigiri. This is a staple you can find at all the convenience stores and also at department stores – my favorite was in Shinjuku at Momichi, which inside one of those incredible food basements (in this case Odakyu Department Store) was a counter that has 47 choices, 1 onigiri style/flavor from each province. I suggest you visit both Convenience Stores (Konbini) and Department Store Food Basements to soak up the regular Japanese citizen’s food shop, and then grab an onigiri or two or three for your bag.
    We hadn't prepared any snacks for the hike up Mount Takao but luckily we saw this Onigiri at Takaosanguchi Station when we disembarked from the train. Not all the convenience stores had translations so appreciated that this one at the train station did - Fred ate a lot of pickled plum ones through this trip
    Some stores will have English translations of the contents, but many do not so I printed out the Google Chrome translated version of the ones at Momichi with help from RocketNews24 article on eating all 47 and just checked off which ones we wanted to give to the counter lady. In convenience stores common flavors you will find are pickled plum, salmon, cod roe, spicy tuna, kelp, natto, and a seafood with mayo like tuna or shrimp (you can see a rough guess of the English and Japanse character by looking at this RocketNews24 article on top onigiri fillings).
    Dinner of Onigiri from Momochi (inside the Odakyu Department Store in the basement) in the hotel room resting our sore feet. This was the favorite from the Shiga province (the store has 47 choices, an onigiri style/flavor of 1 from each province). This is Salad Pan flavor, with rice instead of bread but otherwise is based on snack bread with mayonnaise and thinly chopped pickled daikon
    For onigiri in Portland, visit the cute teahouse and snack shop Behind the Museum Cafe right across from the Portland Art Museum or get takeout from Musubi. If you want to try it as part of a larger meal, check out Biwa or Kizuki (formerly Kukai).
  13. Kushikatsu or kushiage is a meal of breaded meat, fish, or/and veggies or cheese which are skewered, deep fried, and that you then you dip into a Worchester-like tonkatsu sauce and eat with cabbage leaves. It’s a bit like a fondue with oil, but they do all the smelly deep frying for you in the back and then rush it out to you. The sauce is in a communal container so double-dip is a big no no. You can order your skewer one at a time, or purchase a set that has an assortment like the one I had that included an additional side. I shared details about eating at the most famous of kushikatsu chains in  Osaka, Daruma, on my blogpost on Osaka previously. The pairing to eat with kushikatsu is usually an alcoholic beverage, like a whisky beverage or here I had shochu.
    Kushikatsu lunch for me at Daruma - I picked the Takowasa, which is cold octopus with rice vinegar, sugar, and wasabi Having as a side the chilled raw octopus (almost like a ceviche) with bit of acid and bite of spiciness was I thought a good counter for the deep fried fattiness of the skewers. This is part of the Shinsekai set menu that includes classic kushikatsu (beef), all natural shrimp, quail egg, asparagus, rice cake, pork cutlet, pumpkin, cheese, and tomato. Since they bring you the skewers while they are freshly fried, I got some on one tray, and then a second tray appeared with the rest.
    Do you know where PDX offerings of kushikatsu or kushiage might be? I don’t 🙁
  14. Tempura in Japan is a meal of deep fried vegetables and seafood. There are restaurants in Japan where instead of an assortment of vegetables and perhaps some shrimp that you might normally get in the US with a tempura appetizer order, you can actually order by the piece. And, in Japan they make a concerted effort to get it to you while it’s hot, and they are much more conscientious than most places in the US in having just the right amount of batter but not too much, and not too long that it gets oily. I recommend starting with a set which will give you an initial foundation of some tempura, along with rice, pickles, and soup and then ordering additional pieces from there.

    The key is you want it as crispy as possible – this means as quickly from the vat to your mouth without burning your tongue, and only the slightest amount of dipping sauce so it doesn’t get soggy.  Because of the amount of deep fried a meal like this might be, having a beer whose carbonation and lightness can balance the tempura is also ideal. The batter is different, so tempura is a lot lighter kushikatsu.
    In PDX, the tempura a la carte menu I’m describing here can be found at the unassuming Takahashi Restaurant.
  15. Takoyaki are octopus dumplings, a street food representative of Osaka. Generally you will see takoyaki at a small food stand, being made hot and fresh from the special takoyaki grill. Be careful eating it – it’s hard to be patient, but if you aren’t you can burn your tongue pretty badly. Depending on the stand there may be a variety of possible special sauces or toppings you can add. I covered my takoyaki eating in Osaka previously and I also see it at booths at festivals like you see below too.
    Some of the festival food stands for Hagoita-Ichi Takoyaki from takoyaki stand Ganso Donaiya in Amerikamura by Sankaku Koen with takoyaki sauce, mayo, egg and green onion
    My recommendation is food cart Buki, as I’ve written about before. I appreciate that they specialize just like in Japan to focus on being good at takoyaki.
  16. Another Osaka specialty, but also often found at street stalls, is Okonomiyaki. Okonomiyaki is a kind of griddled Japanese pancake that includes batter, shredded cabbage, and other ingredients and toppings which vary but generally include okonomiyaki sauce, mayo, bonito flakes, and seaweed flakes. You usually have it prepared either by the chef or you make it yourself at the table. I had it at Ajinoya in Osaka as I noted in my in Osaka post previously, but I also see it at booths at festivals like you see below too.
    Some of the food on the way out of Meiji Shrine on the way to the Harajuku train station entrance on New Year's Day to feed the crowds coming from Hatsumode Dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya. This is the Hiroshima styled okonomiyaki which you can then top with as much additional sauce and bonito flakes as you want from containers on the table
    Unfortunately I don’t have any okonomiyaki place that I can recommend in Portland – why do you know of one? I know a few places offer it as a single dish but not with options like an Okonomiyaki joint in Japan would – as a single dish option you might consider Shigezo / Maru or Bamboo Sushi.
  17. Enjoy Japanese Curry, this one is from Coco Curry House which is a curry restaurant chain. Japanese curries are commonly eaten and are very homey, but are not generally found as often in the US so take advantage while in Japan to try some. They can be customized in terms of what kind of curry, what kind and number of toppings and what level of heat.
    Japanese Curry, this one is from Coco Curry House
    When it comes to Japanese curry in PDX I go to Kalé
  18. Sweets in Japan are created so artfully that sometimes it seems unreal – I can barely tell the difference between a plastic model and the real thing. There are a variety of different places to enjoy dessert, be it at a restaurant, in a cafe with coffee or tea, or even purchasing it from the department store basement food floors or from a store in a train station. Don’t miss out on these edible art that are available so casually. Make sure to eat a fancy Japanese dessert – they are so affordable.
    Staring at the beautiful desserts in the department store at Tokyo Station Staring at the beautiful desserts in the department store at Tokyo Station  A stop at Miyama Cafe for drinks and Tiramisu. I loved how ubiquitous it is to get green tea lattes with almond milk
    For specific Japanese take on dessert, look no further than Yume Confections or Mio’s Delectables. If you are looking for more of a dessert cafe, try artful desserts from Papa Haydn and Pix Patisserie which are more French.
  19. Conveyor Belt Sushi – now automated! Conveyor Belt Sushi restaurants are essentially like fast food dining in which you sit at a counter.  A tap at your seat provides hot water for green tea, and usually you have a motorized parade of sushi plates that you just grab whenever one catches your eye, or it may be the kind you order from a screen. Stack the plates as you eat because you will be charged based on the number of plates, with certain color plates representing different price points.
    Genki Sushi in Shubuya, where you order from individual screens as you seat from a menu (there is an English menu available) and then the dishes come essentially via a sushi train directly to you. Let's not kid that this is the best sushi in Tokyo- it's just a more techie version of conveyer belt sushi that lets you tailor your order to get what you want and reduce waste for them. I picked out going to lunch at Genki Sushi in Shibuya. The spout to the right is for hot water for green tea and is located at every seat
    It may not be as fresh as experience #2 above by Tsukiji market, but prices are reasonable, and if you go at a busy time where they keep making new dishes, or one where they make it to order, it will still be pretty fresh. Now, the latest upgrade on the conveyor belt parade is automated delivery of specific sushi. We went to Genki Sushi in Shubuya, where you order from individual tablet screens at your seat from a menu (there is an English menu available) and then the dishes come essentially via a sushi train programmed to stop directly at your seat. With three tracks, food came out very fast. And, because each was a specific order they offered a HUGE menu of dishes we could choose from.
    I picked out going to lunch at Genki Sushi in Shibuya. I picked this place because I read how they have a large selection and more importantly, they use Android tablets at each seat that includes other languages (such as English) to explain the selections. You pick what you want from the menu 3 at a time, and then it comes on the 'sushi shinkansen' directly to your seat. This is Fred's order of natto sushi. He also ordered an iced coffee as you see Genki Sushi in Shubuya, where you order from individual screens as you seat from a menu (there is an English menu available) and then the dishes come essentially via a sushi train directly to you. Natto sushi Genki Sushi in Shubuya, where you order from individual screens as you seat from a menu (there is an English menu available) and then the dishes come essentially via a sushi train directly to you. Genki Sushi in Shubuya, where you order from individual screens as you seat from a menu (there is an English menu available) and then the dishes come essentially via a sushi train directly to you. Genki Sushi in Shubuya, where you order from individual screens as you seat from a menu (there is an English menu available) and then the dishes come essentially via a sushi train directly to you. Chawanmushi, a Japanese egg custard Genki Sushi in Shubuya, where you order from individual screens as you seat from a menu (there is an English menu available) and then the dishes come essentially via a sushi train directly to you. Ebi (shrimp) with mentaiko topping "Genki Genki Sushi in Shubuya, where you order from individual screens as you seat from a menu (there is an English menu available) and then the dishes come essentially via a sushi train directly to you. - shrimp in chicken skin
    Let’s not kid that this is the best sushi in Tokyo- it’s just a more techie version of conveyor belt sushi that lets you tailor your order to get what you want and reduce waste and human resources (servers) for them. As a customer though is also incredibly convenient to be able to get exactly what we want instead of watching a parade to see what is available by scrolling through the menu instead. You can order 3 dishes at at time since that’s what the train holds, but usually stuff comes one plate at a time as soon as it’s ready. There were yellow smiley buttons to send the train back after we had picked up our plate, to go containers already at the seat, and after ordering a certain amount of plates you even got to play a scissors paper rock game to possibly win food or discounts. Fun!
    Genki Sushi in Shubuya, where you order from individual screens as you seat from a menu (there is an English menu available) and then the dishes come essentially via a sushi train directly to you. You can order 3 at at time since that's what the train holds, but usually stuff comes one plate at a time as soon as it's ready "To
    There are locations of Genki Sushi also in the US in Hawaii and in Santa Ana, California and in King County, Washington
  20. Have you ever heard of Mentaiko Spaghetti? It is essentially a Japanese Style Fish Roe Pasta that is reminiscent of Pasta Carbonara in that it has a creaminess and saltiness for the flavors, but instead of using bacon it uses cod roe, aka mentaiko, which are those little dots instead. You can probably find this at a lot of Italian restaurants in Japan.
    Fred wanted Italian for dinner, and I went with Mentaiko Spaghetti that includes cod roe but is otherwise a bit like carbonara in it's combination of creaminess and saltiness Mentaiko Spaghetti at Noraneko, a special only on Saturdays
    You used to be able to find this dish once a week as the Saturday special at Noraneko but they changed their menu to be ramen and sandwiches now, sadly, even though their version is as good as the ones I had in Japan. Does anyone else know where to get this now?
  21. When you are at the train station, look for the Ekiben store selling Eki Bentos – these are train bento boxes packed so you can enjoy them on the shinkansen bullet trains. The ekiben are only at stations where the shinkansen go through – and you will find it in the station stores and restaurant area and also on the platforms. They are already packed, often with a display showing what is inside, for you to take to go. The Ekiben stores in the main station tend to have much larger selection than the one on the tracks.
    Another example of eki bento - they one I took the photo of previously had a lot more because it was in the central area of the train station. This one is right between the tracks after going downstairs - not only did it have less options, but it was out of the set I just bought for myself upstairs so I was glad I had already bought my food Examples of the many types of eki bento you can get - depending on the train station and area you are in, the contents of the food may vary based on local specialties
    Although there may be some classics that are available at all stations, you will also notice that there are regional specialties that vary depending on which station you purchase. Every train station we went through I always kept an eye out to see if there were ekiben stores to admire the possibilities, as well as looking for train stamps. Here are a few that I enjoyed during my trip – and I encourage you to try them too to get a full shinkansen experience.
    Bento box with egg, eel and rice 'Yay This is the Eki Bento I chose! I even brought it back from Japan and it sits on a shelf next to my other food vessels of a killer whale from SeaWorld from way back when and a Cars cone from Disneyland California. The color of this train matches the new in 2015 JR West’s W7 Series Shinkansen train. On a test ride, it departed from Kanazawa Station for Nagano Station, hitting 260 kph in seven minutes My Eki Bento may be in a train container like a kid, but it included onigiri, a little mayo and potato salad like a grown up and a little pound cake with bean filling dessert My Eki Bento may be in a train container like a kid, but it included onigiri, a little mayo and potato salad like a grown up and a little pound cake with bean filling dessert
  22. Often found near the train stations are these fabulous Japanese bakeries – you go in and grab a tray and tongs. Then, you walk around filling your tray with any of the baked goodies you want, which vary from savory to sweet. Then, you bring your tray to the cashier to pay for it all and they will wrap them up individually. I love stopping at these to grab buns for breakfast or as a snack.
    Huge selection of baked goods at Hukuo Huge selection of baked goods at Hukuo Huge selection of baked goods at Hukuo Huge selection of baked goods at Hukuo
    The closest equivalents is Oyatsupan in Beaverton. Alternatively try Chinese bakeries that offer sweet and savory snack buns like King’s Bakery (SE 82nd and Division), Mei Sum Bakery (SE 80th and Powell), and Meianna Bakery (by Fubonn). I’ve grabbed some of the savory rolls from Best Baguette (at least I know the Beaverton location has it)
  23. During the cold weather months, look out for Oden,  a broth made by simmering fish cakes, fried tofu, and vegetables in a kelp based stock. There are usually lots of possible individual pieces of items you can purchase by the item to add to the broth, and you eat it with a little bit of mustard. After passing these countless times in convenience stores, I finally decided to try it.
    After passing these countless times in convenience stores, on our last day in Japan I finally decided to try it. This is Oden, a broth popular during the winter and then you pay by the piece for the extra ingredients you take After passing these countless times in convenience stores, on our last day in Japan I finally decided to try it. This is Oden, a broth popular during the winter and then you pay by the piece for the extra ingredients you take
    I got daikon (the round thing to the bottom right), Konnyaku (looks like dragon hide but root of a plant call the Amorphophallus konjac, sometimes referred to by well-meaning English-speaking Japanese as “devil’s tongue”) and Tsukune meat thing. I really wanted a Mochiiri Kinchaku or “tofu purse” but the store didn’t have any. For a great primer on oden and what each of the ingredients are, I’m thankful for RocketNews24 Diner’s Guide to Oden. Other soup dishes that you might want to try in Japan include the one pot dishes of shabu shabu and sukiyaki (in which you swish beef into the soup to cook – broth based fondue essentially), or the heartier stews that is a staple of sumo wrestlers diets, chankonobe.
    After passing these countless times in convenience stores, on our last day in Japan I finally decided to try it. This is Oden, a broth popular during the winter and then you pay by the piece for the extra ingredients you take
    A lot of the hot pot joints in Portland tend to be Korean or Chinese (I like Hot Pot City, conveniently close to my home by PSU and offers vegetarian)
  24. Since my latest visit was with a vegetarian, and because the beef can be expensive, I didn’t make it to a restaurant serving Kobe Beef. You can eat it raw like sashimi, swish in broth sukiyaki style, bbq grill it via yakiniku cuisine, or have it teppenyaki style on an iron plate teppan grill. Unlike the teppanyaki in the US, the ones in Japan may be upscale steakhouses with premium cuts of meat, not just offering the entertainment value of the chef grilling in front of you. If you love steak though, you should seek out the famous marbled Wagyu Kobe Beef. The whole Japanese Kobe Beef and American Japanese “Kobe” Beef is a PITA to sort through so I haven’t made any effort here to justify whether they are equal or which is better. Tokio Table does offer teppenyaki and Wagyu from Snake River Farms,and you can try certified Japanese Wagyu if you attend Nodoguro SupaHardcore dinners. 
  25. Live on the edge by eating Fugu. This still hasn’t been an experience I’ve had – still not sure if it ever will. But I can’t deny that it should be part of a possible Japan Eats list. It’s definitely a specialty of Japan to eat this known poisonous fish at one of the licensed restaurants offering pufferfish / blowfish.  It is in season mainly in the winter, and because of the special training can be a little more expensive. Once inside the restaurant, there will be multiple preparations of fugu that you can choose from, varying from hot and cold, cooked and raw. For more information, try this New York Magazine article on eating fugu.
    Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori. Here, a huge blowfish lantern adorns Zubora-ya, a fugu (deadly poison blowfish) restaurant
    On a more reasonable note, I would do this for crab (kani) – the famous moving crab sign in Osaka is the symbol for a crab restaurant chain called Kani Doraku that specializes in crab dishes. I didn’t have enough room for it in this past trip (plus probably wouldn’t have been appreciated by F who wouldn’t be able to eat anything as a vegetarian), but if I went to Japan again I would try it. Kani has locations outside Osaka – the blog Appetite for Japan has a great recap of what a Kani Doraku meal can be like.
    Sights of Osaka - Left, Kushikatsu Daruma a kushikatsu restaurant (deep fried skewer restaurant) whose mascot is an angry looking Asian chef with a fu manchu. And, to the right another location of crab restaurant Kani Doraku that erected their giant mechanized crab sign back in 1960 and kicked off a craze of giant animated seafood signs
    No place in Portland is licensed for fugu, I think you’ll have to go to Seattle, New York or California

There is one other Japanese dining experience you might consider during a trip to Japan. I considered it but didn’t want to spend that much when F couldn’t be part of the experience. That’s dining at one of the Michelin starred restaurants. As of 2016, Tokyo has the most Michelin starred restaurants of any city in the world with 13 Three Stars, 51 Two Stars, and 153 One Star Michelin restaurants. The type of cuisine a Michelin star restaurant may offer varies greatly.

I also want to mention though it doesn’t count as eating, definitely consider trying local sake and craft beer while in Japan as well.

  • In Tokyo we visited Baird Brewing which offers several taprooms all specializing in a different bar food to go along with the beer (we went to the one in Harajuku where we tried a few tofu izakaya items with our beer and I fell in love with Wasabi Potato Salad), an outpost of Little Delirium offering Belgium Beer in Shinjuku, Mikkeller Tokyo in Shibuya offering rare beers you normally only see in bottles, and Good Beer Faucets also in Shibuya offering an impressive 40 taps (They were having a special event where as they blew their taps the price of the beer would be discounted until we drank all their beer and they closed for the New Year’s weekend). For the most taps in Tokyo, look to Popeye’s with it’s 70 beers on draft and one ugly mofo of a website.
  • In Kyoto, we went to hole in the wall but high quality craft beer and organic food bar Beer Komachi, and Jam Hostel Sake Bar as I’ve mentioned before I enjoyed tofu with beer and had the best sake ever, and another option would be trying both beer and sake as both are available at Kizakura Kappa Country.
    Baird Beer Break at their Harajuku Taproom, Japanese craft beer bar with izakaya food Baird Beer Break at their Harajuku Taproom, Japanese craft beer bar with izakaya food Baird Beer Break at their Harajuku Taproom, Japanese craft beer bar with izakaya food Baird Beer Break at their Harajuku Taproom, Japanese craft beer bar with izakaya food Baird Beer Break - the Hiyayakko or Chilled Tofu came with a lot of bonito Hello from Mikkeller Tokyo with 20 taps Hello from Mikkeller Tokyo with 20 taps On New Year's Eve, we walked to Goodbeer Faucets in Shibuya with 40 kinds of draught beer. They were having a special event where as they blew their taps the price of the beer would be discounted until we drank all their beer and they closed for the New Year's weekend

Which Japanese Eats do you think you would put on your list? What have you already tried and loved in Japan, or though eh it wasn’t all that? Did I miss anything in my list? Are there places in Portland for some of these that I don’t know about that you want to loop me in on?

Thank you very much for reading my long series of my Japan Travel posts. This is the last one, and at this point I’m a little perplexed myself how I managed to fit in so much in the 2 weeks I was there. Is it wrong to be impressed with your own travel planning? Although we did a lot, I also felt it was a relaxing vacation because we were never rushing from place to place on a set schedule and that there was some flexibility in the itinerary. Did I miss my calling as a travel and tour operator?

Next week Travel Tuesday I’ll be taking you to Sante Fe!

Here’s a summary of my Japan Travel post series:

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Japan Travel: Visiting Himeji Castle

I couldn’t go to Japan without seeing a castle this time – and I always knew which one it would be. It would be Himeji Castle, also known as the White Heron Castle (Shirasagijo) or White Egret Castle (Hakurojodue to its elegant bird like silhouette from its curved roofs and the white color of the plaster walls which helped it survive since plaster won’t burn down (unlike most of the other castles in Japan). Himeji is one of Japan’s only 12 completely original castles.
Himeji Castle also known as White Heron Castle (Shirasagijo) due to its elegant, white appearance is situated on a high hill

This is the one that I have admired for years with it’s bright white walls from postcard and pictures even when I was young just passing through Narita for an airplane transfer. It didn’t matter which season, this castle always looks stunning – whether it be with the brilliant red and orange autumn foliage around it, or covered in snow, or with the blossom of cherry trees and the castle park also with its plum, peach, azalea and wisteria growing on the grounds. Or in the case when I came in December, with none of those atmospheric elements and just the castle on its own.
Himeji Castle also known as White Heron Castle (Shirasagijo) due to its elegant, white appearance is situated on a high hill

We took the shinkansen train here from Kyoto – though you can also use Osaka as your home base if you want, since Himeji Station lies between these two cities at only an hour away. From Tokyo I think by shinkansen it’s about 4 hours away, so also possible as a day trip. As you walk out of the train station you can see it vaguely at the end of the street already because it’s on a hill. From the train station it was a 20 minute walk along the main boulevard, watching Himeji Castle get bigger and bigger as you get closer. Takopost has a great Himeji Castle Day Trip blog post showing pictures of the approach as well as some of the inside and tips.

Then, here is your view as your cross the last street into the park area. Also in the surrounding area besides the castle are a garden and city zoo and what looked like an amusement park. The moat here is one of three moats that were originally encircling Himeji Castle – there are only 2 moats that survive as the outmost moat has been buried.
Himeji Castle, Japan - our first look once we walked down the main boulevard and crossed the last street into the park here. Also in the surrounding area are a garden and city zoo and what looked like an amusement park. The castle was originally encircled by three moats, of which two still survive Himeji Castle, Japan - the castle was originally encircled by three moats, of which two still survive

We visited the castle when it first opened in the morning – in fact we arrived maybe 30 minutes before the admission gates opened. I knew that for the past 5 1/2 years, Himeji Castle has had scaffolding covering the castle while restoring and making repairs, and had only reopened earlier in March of 2015 revealing the full castle walls again. So, since it’s reopening it has been a popular attraction even for locals to revisit.

The pictures from Takopost from July 2015 had shown huge crowds and queues of people shuffling in constant lines through and around the castle, and I did not want that experience. He advised immediately getting in line and admiring the grounds outside after. So I intentionally came early to beat any tour groups or school trips, and hoped that the fact it was New Year’s week meant it wasn’t as much of a draw. This paid off in that we were among the first 50 people in… and it turn out to be a light visit day so we never felt crowded and could take our time in all areas. If you want to guess what the crowds might be, the official Himeji Castle website has a calendar where you can look at the probable amount of visitors for that time.
Open area around Himeji Castle as you approach it from Himeji Station Himeji Castle also known as White Heron Castle (Shirasagijo) due to its elegant, white appearance is situated on a high hill

On your way you may see some of the resident cats on the property! Supposedly there are sometimes people who are dressed like samurai or ninja that are sometimes here to earn money taking photos with tourists, but we didn’t see any. Just the kitties. There was quite a small crowd around them – they are obviously being fed by someone here – as we watched one cat unsuccessfully stalk a crow several times. This feeding area we saw was right outside where the line to enter Himeji starts, where there are public park restrooms. Once you are inside Himeji Castle, there are not restrooms available until you reach the Inner Keep area (where the photo with me above was taken, after already going up and down the main keep).
Some of the cats on the Himeji Castle park area Some of the cats on the Himeji Castle park area

After paying admission into the main keep grounds, you have to follow many winding paths through doorways (there were 84 gates total originally in the entire complex) to actually get into the castle. This is intentional design to drive the enemy into narrow passages and areas with dead ends.
Himeji Castle also known as White Heron Castle (Shirasagijo) due to its elegant, white appearance is situated on a high hill

There are paths that actually take you away from the tower even though you look like you’re going towards it. There are paths that correctly go to the main tower but are sloped downward to make intruders think they are going the wrong way.
Getting a bit photo happy as we approach Himeji Castle once they opened the admission gates (we had to wait about 30 min before they opened and were among the first 50 in I think). They have had scaffolding on the castle making repairs and only reopened earlier in that year after 5 1/2 years The Himeji castle property, situated on a hill summit in the central part of the Harima Plain covers 107 hectares and comprises eighty-two buildings. It is centered on the Tenshu-gun, a complex made up of the donjon, keeps and connecting structures that we are walking through here

There is even a trap by another gate that can send a landslide through to block the gate. Himeji Castle was designed ready for a siege – though it was never actually besieged in its history.
The entrance to Himeji Castle constitutes a veritable spiral maze of walls, gates and baileys, constantly under-fire attackers would need to penetrate and the design is intentional to drive the enemy into narrow passages and areas with dead ends. There are paths that actually take you away from the tower even though you look like you're going towards it, there are paths that correctly go to the main tower but are sloped downward to make intruders think they are going the wrong way The Himeji castle complex originally contained 84 gates, 15 of which were named according to the Japanese syllabary (I, Ro, Ha, Ni, Ho, He, To, etc.) At present, 21 gates from the castle complex remain intact, 13 of which are named according to the Japanese syllabary.

Finally, we arrive at the actual castle building. Very early on after entering the inside castle building, we were given plastic bags to carry our shoes and we are all wearing slippers they gave us as we start to ascend the levels of the castle, which you may catch in some of the photos I have. Externally, the Himeji Castle keep appears to have five floors because the second and third floors from the top appear to be a single floor. But, the tower actually has six floors and a basement. The castle’s granite base, combined with a highly flexible wooden structure, is designed to help Himeji Castle sway during earthquakes.
Finally about to enter the actual castle building now! The walking we have been doing is intentional in the design The entrance to Himeji Castle constitutes a veritable spiral maze of walls, gates and baileys, constantly under-fire attackers would need to penetrate and the design is intentional to drive the enemy into narrow passages and areas with dead ends

There are lots of windows as we go up each floor: this gives us a view of the city, the keep area… in the second photo you can see that big boulevard you see on the right is the street we walked on from the Himeji train station. You can see why building Himeji, which started as a fort, on top of Himeyana hill originally in 1333 was such a smart idea with this strong vantage point.
View from Himeji Castle in Japan of the rest of the keep Besides the detail look at the mythical tiger-headed fish called kinshachi as a talisman for fire protection, that big boulevard you see on the right is the street we walked on from the train station

From the windows you also see many of the Himeji Castle tiger-headed fish statues called kinshachi that are spiritual measure for the prevention of fires.
View from a window at Himeji Castle, Japan. The fish statues you see are spiritual measure for the prevention of fires and these mythical tiger-headed fish are called kinshachi View from a window at Himeji Castle, Japan. The fish statues you see are spiritual measure for the prevention of fires and these mythical tiger-headed fish are called kinshachi View from a window at Himeji Castle, Japan. The fish statues you see are spiritual measure for the prevention of fires and these mythical tiger-headed fish are called kinshachi

The weapon racks inside were empty, but you definitely notice how many there are. At one point, the castle contained as many as 280 guns and 90 spears. In the Ikeda family period (they significantly rebuilt Himeji Castle from 1601-1609 and started the castle complex that stands today) there were about 500 samurai warriors in residence here.

Honda Tadamasa and his son Tadatoki and daughter-in-law, Princess Sen, inherited the castle from the Ikedas. They had more than 1,200 vassals in addition to 4,000 foot solders and servants as they expanded the castle keep into a castle complex in 1617-1618, including a special tower for Princess Sen. Himeji Castle has then mostly been intact since then for the next over 400 years! In the Sakakibara family period there were 3,000 people at Himeji. When Sakai was the last lord of the castle just before the Meiji Restoration there about 2,200 people.
Himeji Castle, Japan - where you hang your weapons, at one point, the castle contained as many as 280 guns and 90 spears. In the Ikeda family period there were about 500 samurai warriors. Honda Tadamasa and his son Tadatoki had more than 1,200 vassals in addition to 4,000 foot solders and servants. In the Sakakibara family period there were 3,000 people. When Sakai was the last lord of the castle just before the Meiji Restoration there about 2,200 people. Himeji Castle, Japan - where you hang your weapons, at one point, the castle contained as many as 280 guns and 90 spears. In the Ikeda family period there were about 500 samurai warriors. Honda Tadamasa and his son Tadatoki had more than 1,200 vassals in addition to 4,000 foot solders and servants. In the Sakakibara family period there were 3,000 people. When Sakai was the last lord of the castle just before the Meiji Restoration there about 2,200 people.

All the stairs were like this at Himeji Castle – steep, and you have to watch your head when clearing the floor. There is no alternative to the stairs, so you must be physically fit enough to go through this to visit the inside of Himeji Castle.
All the stairs were like this at Himeji Castle - steep, and you have to watch your head when clearing the floor. There is no alternative to the stairs, so you must be physically fit enough to go through this to visit the inside of Himeji Castle. All the stairs were like this at Himeji Castle - steep, and you have to watch your head when clearing the floor. There is no alternative to the stairs, so you must be physically fit enough to go through this to visit the inside of Himeji Castle.

Here’s another look at a stair to another floor. The wooden framework of Himeji castle is made from huge pillars including a nearly 800-year-old cypress beam. Even though I’m not an engineer or architect, I am nothing but impressed with the design and construction that it took at the time to make Himeji Castle what it is today.
The wooden framework of Himeji castle is made from huge pillars including a nearly 800-year-old cypress beam, which is thought to bestow good luck on touching it.

Both the third and fourth floors of Himeji Castle have platforms situated at the north and south windows called “stone-throwing platforms” where defenders could observe or throw objects at attackers. They also have small enclosed rooms called “warrior hiding places” where defenders could hide themselves and kill attackers by surprise as they entered the keep. Windows are also placed higher to provide ventilation for gun powder.
Both the third and fourth floors of Himeji Castle have platforms situated at the north and south windows called stone-throwing platforms where defenders could observe or throw objects at attackers. They also have small enclosed rooms called warrior hiding places where defenders could hide themselves and kill attackers by surprise as they entered the keep. Windows are also higher to provide ventilation for gun powder. Both the third and fourth floors of Himeji Castle have platforms situated at the north and south windows called stone-throwing platforms where defenders could observe or throw objects at attackers. They also have small enclosed rooms called warrior hiding places where defenders could hide themselves and kill attackers by surprise as they entered the keep. Windows are also higher to provide ventilation for gun powder.

Once the path takes you up and then down through the main castle, you have a chance to admire the outside again. On the buildings, surrounding walls and roofs, look at the tiles at the end of the curved gables. If you pay attention you can observe that different types of family crests can be found. This is because many lords claimed Himeji Castle as their home and they each used their own crests. For example, you might see the butterfly crest of the Ikeda family, the paulownina crest of the Hashiba family, the hollyhock crest of the Honda family, and a cross-shaped crest for a Christian lord that once ruled Himeji Castle.
On the buildings, surrounding walls and roofs, look at the edge of the tiles. If you pay attention you can observe that different types of family crests can be found. This is because many lords claimed Himeji Castle as their home and they each used their own crests. For example, the butterfly crest of the Ikeda family, the paulownina crest of the Hashiba family, the hollyhock crest of the Honda family, and a cross-shaped crest for a Christian lord that once ruled Himeji Castle. On the buildings, surrounding walls and roofs, look at the edge of the tiles. If you pay attention you can observe that different types of family crests can be found. This is because many lords claimed Himeji Castle as their home and they each used their own crests. For example, the butterfly crest of the Ikeda family, the paulownina crest of the Hashiba family, the hollyhock crest of the Honda family, and a cross-shaped crest for a Christian lord that once ruled Himeji Castle.

You can observe open window like holes in the walls in the shape of circles, triangles, and rectangles located throughout Himeji Castle. The shapes are intended to allow defenders armed with tanegashima or archers to fire on attackers without exposing themselves. They have different heights in places based on whether you are in standing position, kneeling position, or prone position.
Himeji Castle also known as White Heron Castle (Shirasagijo) due to its elegant, white appearance. Below you can see windows for an archer or defender using a Matchlock Himeji Castle, Japan. You can observe loopholes in the shape of circles, triangles, and rectangles are located throughout Himeji Castle, intended to allow defenders armed with tanegashima or archers to fire on attackers without exposing themselves. They have different heights in places based on whether you are in standing position, kneeling position, or prone position.

And what’s an old castle without a ghost story or two right? There are two for Himeji Castle that I read. The first is for Okiku’s Well. The story is that Okiku was falsely accused of losing dishes that were valuable family treasures, and then killed and thrown into the well. Her ghost remained to haunt the well at night, counting dishes in a despondent tone.
Himeji Castle, Japan. This is December so there isn't much color, but the park has hundreds of cherry trees and great fall colors in spring and fall. The extensive castle park also has plum, peach, azalea and wisteria growing in the grounds

The other is Genbei Sakurai, who was Ikeda Terumasa’s master carpenter in the construction of the keep, and who felt responsible for the mistaken measurement that causes the tower to lean in the southwest direction so he committed suicide by jumping off a donjon. The real reason for the castle leaning to the southwest is because of sunken cliffs in the east and west. Who knows if either of these folktales are true.
Himeji Castle in Japan Himeji Castle in Japan

On a previous post I shared street treats, which included photos and a video of Ningyo Yaki (a cake filled with sweet red bean paste) here they are available in the shape of Himeji Castle… Those stores are located right across the street from Himeji Castle park on the way back to Himeji Station. Because of the time of year that we visited, we did not visit the Kokoen Garden nearby (offering 9 gardens, and also an opportunity to experience traditional tea service – you can purchase a combined ticket with Himeji Castle admission if you so choose), so we spent about half a day here at Himeji, leaving after lunch and actually then heading to Kinkakuji Golden Pavilion in Kyoto which I covered a couple posts ago.
Himeji Castle Ningyo Yaki -Ningyo Yaki is a cake filled with sweet red bean paste. You will often see it in the shape of various buildings or animals.

While waiting for our train time to go to the plastform at Himeji Station, we followed our noses to find this, a treat called Gozasoro. They put a pancake like batter on one side add the bean paste filling (either the ‘shiro-an’ white bean paste or ‘aka-an’ red bean paste fillings), then put batter on the other side, just before the batter hardens, they put the two sides together to make a round cake and flip several times while cooking until golden brown. I highly recommend you try it!
We saw this at the Himeji train station while waiting for the train - this is a treat called Gozasoro. They put a pancake like batter on one side add the bean paste filling (either the ‘shiro-an’ 白あん white bean paste or ‘aka-an’ 赤あん red bean paste fillings), then put batter on the other side, just before the batter hardens, they put the two sides together to make a round cake and flip several times while cooking until golden brown. We saw this at the Himeji train station while waiting for the train - this is a treat called Gozasoro. They put a pancake like batter on one side add the bean paste filling (either the ‘shiro-an’ 白あん white bean paste or ‘aka-an’ 赤あん red bean paste fillings), then put batter on the other side, just before the batter hardens, they put the two sides together to make a round cake and flip several times while cooking until golden brown.

Helpful articles on visiting Himeji:

Clearly you can tell I had a huge interest for visiting Himeji Castle as I had already done so much previous research (which I then summarized in a word document to print out so it’s thin) before even arriving at the castle so I would be able to enjoy it with history and knowledge already in hand when I finally made my dream come true.

I do have other castles on my bucket list – a mossy Irish castle, a medieval French castle on an island (Mont Saint-Michel), an elegant German castle that was the inspiration for Disney (Neuschwanstein Castle, though seriously Germany has so many lovely castles).

Have you ever done a lot of research on history or features of a specific attraction before visiting? What was it for? Do you have a dream castle you’d like to see?

Here’s a summary of my Japan Travel post series:

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Japan Travel: Famous Signs of Osaka

When I think of Osaka, the first thing I think of is how it’s known as a food city. The other thing I think of is all the big giant food signs of Osaka and bright lights by the canal. So those were my targets when we traveled from Kyoto to Osaka: to eat a few specialty foods and see the famous signs of Osaka.

We only spent one day in Osaka because I had a feeling that F wouldn’t like it. And, I was right. Osaka is a bit more aggressive than Tokyo, and things he liked about Japan – how patient people would be, no one crossed the street except at intersections, everyone formed orderly lines while waiting for trains, everything is clean – is not so in Osaka. If anything, you could say Osaka feels a bit more Western in that regard, more casual than normal Japanese formality, maybe even a bit grittier. It’s the equivalent of Manhattan (Tokyo) vs the Bronx (Osaka) I think in the feel of the cities.

Amerikamura

This neighborhood of Amerikamura is maybe a 10 minute walk from Namba, which is where our AirBnB was located. I think Namba is the most happening area to stay if you visit Osaka. Everything in this post is on walking distance of Namba.

We stored our luggage until check-in at one of the many luggage lockers in the Namba train station – though it took us probably an hour to find a large luggage locker that could fit our 2 carry on bags and 2 backpacks. Just as we were going to give up and take the train to Kyoto Station (where I know they have a luggage room with an attendant), we ran into a group of Japanese late teens/early 20s who were removing their luggage. Huge sigh of relief. If you plan to store luggage you can find a map online as there are multiple luggage locker areas in the station.

Walking into Amerikamura, we were then fully surrounded by many people in their late teens and early 20s. This area is full of trendy stores, especially of clothing, that reflect a love for American influence and American street fashion generally leaning towards sporty (Nike and Adidas like), hip hop (hoodies, printed graphic T-shirts, caps) or punk (black with metallic details or crazy prints or bright colors). It honestly did remind me of the East Village of New York the way the stores were narrow and packed with merchandise. At one point we even spotted Amerikamura’s own version of the Statue of Liberty overseeing this trendy youthful neighborhood (atop New American Plaza, established 1984!).
Amerikamura's own version of the Statue of Liberty looks down upon this American influenced trendy neighborhood of Osaka

This is definitely an area where you can find lots of funny uses of English, be it store names or on clothing. This one particular store, Baked Magic, cracked me up every time we walked by – they really did sell an interesting variety of pastry puffs of some sort but seemed to have overly complicated origins where it baked, but also is a result of wizard magic but also grows off a giant vine/beanstalk?
Punk teens co exist with hip hop style or sporty - think Nike and Adidas like - in Amerikamura, a trendy neighborhood in Osaka. This was taken at Sankaku Koen, a famous intersection. this one store, Baked Magic, cracked me up every time we walked by - they really did only sell a pastry puff of some sort but seemed to have overly complicated origins where it is a result of wizard magic but also grows off a giant vine/beanstalk

The main goal in Amerikamura was a famous intersection called Sankaku Koen, also known as Triangle Park because of the way the streets cross forms a triangular area in the middle where people hang out. Also, I had read from Matcha Japan Travel magazine that this street also has multiple takoyaki stands that flank the triangle park all within a couple blocks, all facing the park. Takoyaki are octopus dumplings, a street food representative of Osaka.
Sights of Osaka - Amerikamura and one of the takoyaki stands I considered, one of the famous 3 stands right around Mitsu Park, a little park by an intersection that is like a triangle so it's also nicknamed Sankaku Koen for Triangle Park. This is Kogaryu’s(甲賀流) that is known for its mayo sauce Sights of Osaka - Amerikamura, here you see the other two takoyaki stands on the same street by Mitsu Park, a little park by an intersection that is like a triangle so it's also nicknamed Sankaku Koen for Triangle Park Sights of Osaka - Amerikamura and Takoyaki Stand Shiranngana! (知らんがな!) that I considered is known more for its jokes (for instance, instead of yen it lists prices as ten thousand yen increments but really it's still regular yen- it just means you hear someone say it's 4 million yen but really it's 400). It's specialty is apparently salt flavored takoyaki Sights of Osaka - Amerikamura and Takoyaki Stand Ganso Donaiya that I considered... and then I saw the balls on top rotated. And the lady taking orders is wearing a hat. And there are photos from articles and a Tripadvisor sticker on it. I also liked that this one they spotlight the cooking right in the front and side so you can watch your takoyaki being made fresh in front of you.

I went for the takoyaki stand Ganso Donaiya with the famous rotating takoyaki sign almost like a slow-mo slot machine, but with the takoyaki balls instead.
I went for the takoyaki stand Ganso Donaiya with the famous rotating takoyaki sign almost like a slow-mo slot machine, but with the takoyaki balls instead. I went for the takoyaki stand Ganso Donaiya with the famous rotating takoyaki sign almost like a slow-mo slot machine, but with the takoyaki balls instead.

And the lady taking orders is wearing a hat. And there are photos from articles and a Tripadvisor sticker on it. And there’s a line and I see them making the food fresh (those two are key in eating foreign street food). Must be good right?
I went for the takoyaki stand Ganso Donaiya with the famous rotating takoyaki sign. And the lady taking orders is wearing a hat. And there are photos from articles and a Tripadvisor sticker on it. Must be good! I went for the takoyaki stand Ganso-Donaiya with the famous rotating takoyaki sign. And the lady taking orders is wearing a hat. And there are photos from articles and a Tripadvisor sticker on it. Must be good!

I also liked that this one they spotlight the cooking right in the front and side so you can watch your takoyaki being made fresh in front of you. The line also reinforced that it would be fresh, and must be tasty right? First you pour in a batter into special takoyaki pans, and then add the seasoning and the little bits of octopus.
Sights of Osaka - Amerikamura - while waiting in line for takoyaki you can watch them being made fresh. Here as the ones on the right finish cooking, he pours batter to start a new batch in the other takoyaki pan Sights of Osaka - Amerikamura - while waiting in line for takoyaki you can watch them being made fresh. First you pour in a batter into special takoyaki pans, and then add the seasoning and the little bits of octopus.

Then you turn them over to cook the other side, and when the balls are fully formed, expertly place them 2 at a time into containers before adding the sauces and whatever are the famous toppings of that takoyaki stand.
Sights of Osaka - Amerikamura - while waiting in line for takoyaki you can watch them being made fresh. First you pour in a batter into special takoyaki pans, and then add the seasoning and the little bits of octopus. Then you turn them over to cook the other side, and when the balls are fully formed, expertly place them 2 at a time into containers before adding the sauces and whatever are the famous toppings of that takoyaki stand Sights of Osaka - Amerikamura - while waiting in line for takoyaki you can watch them being made fresh. First you pour in a batter into special takoyaki pans, and then add the seasoning and the little bits of octopus. Then you turn them over to cook the other side, and when the balls are fully formed, expertly place them 2 at a time into containers before adding the sauces and whatever are the famous toppings of that takoyaki stand

I selected one with the takoyaki sauce, mayo, egg and green onion.
Takoyaki from takoyaki stand Ganso Donaiya in Amerikamura by Sankaku Koen with takoyaki sauce, mayo, egg and green onion Takoyaki from takoyaki stand Ganso Donaiya in Amerikamura by Sankaku Koen with takoyaki sauce, mayo, egg and green onion

Dotonbori

The most famous area of Osaka is beyond a question Dotonbori. This is both the name of a street and a canal, and is known for being a huge food destination full of gigantic signs, including mechanized signs.
Sights of Osaka - one street down from the Ebisu-bashi bridge, which is the closest crossing to the Glico man and Asahi beer sign and is always packed, day or night. Sights of Osaka - one street down from the Ebisu-bashi bridge, which is the closest crossing to the Glico Running man and Asahi beer sign and is always packed, day or night.

At night, Dotonbori is glittering with bright lights. Here you see the famous giant neon Glico Running Man, and along the street there is a smaller version with the time that you can pose with.
'Sights Sights of Osaka - giant neon Glico Running Man Sights of Osaka - giant neon Glico Running Man Sights of Osaka - giant neon Glico Running Man

If you’re wondering why a running man is the symbol of a Glico candy company, it’s because he is running a 300 meter race, and it so happens that a 300 meter run burns the same amount of calories as eating one piece of Glico caramel.
If you're running why a running man is the symbol of a Glico candy company, it's because he is running a 300 meter race, and it so happens that a 300 meter run burns the same amount of calories as eating one piece of Glico caramel. If you're running why a running man is the symbol of a Glico candy company, it's because he is running a 300 meter race, and it so happens that a 300 meter run burns the same amount of calories as eating one piece of Glico caramel.

You’ve probably seen the famous Kani Doraku crab sign with its mechanized legs slowly moving since the 60s, beckoning patrons to eat at this crab restaurant chain (there are a few other branches, but this is the original flagship restaurant with the iconic moving crab) right before the Dotonbori Bridge.
Sights of Osaka - the view down Dotonbori, including to the left the crab restaurant Kani Doraku that erected their giant mechanized crab sign back in 1960 and kicked off a craze of giant animated seafood signs Sights of Osaka - the view down Dotonbori, including to the the crab restaurant Kani Doraku that erected their giant mechanized crab sign back in 1960 and kicked off a craze of giant animated seafood signs

For instance, here’s another branch with the crab above its sign, though this one didn’t move. Next to it is another famous icon, Kushikatsu Daruma a kushikatsu restaurant (deep fried skewer restaurant) whose mascot is an angry looking Asian chef.
Sights of Osaka - Left, Kushikatsu Daruma a kushikatsu restaurant (deep fried skewer restaurant) whose mascot is an angry looking Asian chef with a fu manchu. And, to the right another location of crab restaurant Kani Doraku that erected their giant mechanized crab sign back in 1960 and kicked off a craze of giant animated seafood signs 'Sights

Kushikatsu is also known kushiage. It is battered meat and veggies which are deep fried skewered that you then you dip into a Worchester-like tonkatsu sauce. The sauce is in a communal container for every 2 people or so, and you better NOT double-dip. You can order your skewer one at a time, or purchase a set that has an assortment like the one I had.

When I ate at Kushikatsu Daruma, I selected the Shinsekai set menu that includes a side I could choose as well as skewers of classic kushikatsu (beef), all natural shrimp, quail egg, asparagus, rice cake, pork cutlet, pumpkin, cheese, and tomato. I picked Takowasa as the side included for the set I ordered, which is cold octopus with rice vinegar, sugar, and wasabi. Having as a side the chilled raw octopus (almost like a ceviche) with bit of acid and bite of spiciness was I thought a good counter for the deep fried fattiness of the skewers. You will also get a side of cabbage leaves to go with your skewers. There will be a container to use for disposal of your skewers each time – just watch the others along the counter with you.
Kushikatsu, is essentially deep fried food on a stick—or more specifically, battered meat and veggies which are deep fried skewered that you then you dip into a Worchester-like tonkatsu sauce. I ate at an outpost of the famous chain Daruma. Look at all the example kushikatsu on the boards! Kushikatsu lunch for me at Kushikutsu Daruma - I picked the Takowasa, which is cold octopus with rice vinegar, sugar, and wasabi as the included side for the set. Having as a side the chilled raw octopus (almost like a ceviche) with bit of acid and bite of spiciness was I thought a good counter for the deep fried fattiness of the skewers. This is part of the Shinsekai set menu that includes classic kushikatsu (beef), all natural shrimp, quail egg, asparagus, rice cake, pork cutlet, pumpkin, cheese, and tomato. The glass is NOT water - it's Kushikutsu Daruma barley shochu Kushikatsu lunch for me at Daruma - I picked the Takowasa, which is cold octopus with rice vinegar, sugar, and wasabi Having as a side the chilled raw octopus (almost like a ceviche) with bit of acid and bite of spiciness was I thought a good counter for the deep fried fattiness of the skewers Kushikatsu lunch for me at Daruma - I picked the Takowasa, which is cold octopus with rice vinegar, sugar, and wasabi Having as a side the chilled raw octopus (almost like a ceviche) with bit of acid and bite of spiciness was I thought a good counter for the deep fried fattiness of the skewers. This is part of the Shinsekai set menu that includes classic kushikatsu (beef), all natural shrimp, quail egg, asparagus, rice cake, pork cutlet, pumpkin, cheese, and tomato. Since they bring you the skewers while they are freshly fried, I got some on one tray, and then a second tray appeared with the rest.

As you walk up and down the street, you will encounter many other giant foods, which I visited both during the day and night.
Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori - here potstickers/gyoza Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori - here potstickers/gyoza Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori include an octopus cooking itself into takoyaki? Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori include an octopus cooking itself into takoyaki? Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori, including a giant sushi in a Big Hand that symbolizes Genroku Zushi and Zuboraya's fugu blowfish Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori, including a giant sushi in a Big Hand that symbolizes Genroku Zushi and Zuboraya's fugu blowfish Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori

Here, a huge blowfish lantern adorns Zuboraya, a fugu (deadly poison blowfish) restaurant.
Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori. Here, a huge blowfish lantern adorns Zubora-ya, a fugu (deadly poison blowfish) restaurant Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori. Here, a huge blowfish lantern adorns Zubora-ya, a fugu (deadly poison blowfish) restaurant

Then there’s this Kuidaore Taro, the famous drumming clown. Kuidaore Taro a life sized mechanized doll of a young teen in a clown costume playing a drum and symbol that originated around 1950. You can see there is a sign that is pretty large with him in the first photo on the left… and then I found a shop dedicated to him that included the drumming statue and a whole bunch of stuff with his likeness.
Sights of Osaka - including to the left in this photo Kuidaore Taro, the famous drumming clown. Sights of Osaka - Kuidaore Taro, the famous drumming clown. Sights of Osaka - Kuidaore Taro, the famous drumming clown.

You are likely to see Kinryuu Ramen, which has a large dragon eating a bowl of ramen. It is a somewhat large chain of ramen shops, so you’ll see this a couple times. Kinryuu is a combination of the words “gold” and “dragon”, so it can easily be translated to be “Golden Dragon”.
Kinryuu Ramen, which has a large dragon eating a bowl of ramen as its mascot. Kinryuu Ramen, which has a large dragon eating a bowl of ramen as its mascot.

You will probably also run into Billikin, the god of ‘things as they ought to be’. Rubbing his feet brings luck, and oddly he is a charm character imported from St Louis but adopted into Japanese culture – he is still Saint Louis University’s mascot.
Billiken is the defining symbol of the area around Tsutenkaku but can be found in various places in Osaka and is the god of 'things as they ought to be'. Rubbing his feet brings luck, and oddly he is a charm character imported from St Louis but adopted into Japanese culture Billiken is the defining symbol of the area around Tsutenkaku but can be found in various places in Osaka and is the god of 'things as they ought to be'. Rubbing his feet brings luck, and oddly he is a charm character imported from St Louis but adopted into Japanese culture

There are lots of stands of takoyaki and other grilled meats throughout the streets – something F complained about because the aromas of the grills also added to our attire so much that F insisted we do laundry once we got back to the AirBnB.
Takoyaki and grilled meats at one of the stands in Dotonbori filling the air with their aromas

Although, to be fair, we also ate okonomiyaki at Ajinoya for dinner. Okonomiyaki is a kind of griddled Japanese pancake that includes batter, shredded cabbage, and other ingredients and toppings which vary but generally include okonomiyaki sauce, mayo, bonito flakes, and seaweed flakes. You usually have it prepared either by the chef or you make it yourself at the table. At Ajinoya it is made by the chef and if you sit at a booth they then bring it to your own grill.
our dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya - you usually have it prepared either by the chef or you make it yourself at the table. At Ajinoya it is made by the chef and if you sit at a booth they then bring it to your own grill where you can top it as you wish our dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya - you usually have it prepared either by the chef or you make it yourself at the table. At Ajinoya it is made by the chef and if you sit at a booth they then bring it to your own grill where you can top it as you wish

You get little spatulas at your seating to then cut the okonomiyaki into slices almost like pizza.
Our booth for two for a dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya. Our booth for two for a dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya. You get little spatulas at your seating to then cut the okonomiyaki into slices almost like pizza.

I chose Ajinoya because it had a great review on the blog Migrationology’s Osaka Food Guide: 11 Must Eat Foods (and Where To Try Them) post. Also, I had found out that they have a tomato and cheese okonomiyaki and you also top your own bonito flakes and amount of sauce at your table, so this seemed like a good choice for vegetarian F since he normally would not be able to eat okonomiyaki as it usually would include seafood,  and I could go crazy with the flakes and sauce here.
Dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya. He had the okonomiyaki with fresh tomatoes and cheese Dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya. He had the okonomiyaki with fresh tomatoes and cheese

Here’s my version – which was Hiroshima style as instead of mixing all the ingredients together it was layered with the batter being on top and bottom, and also included yakisoba noodles.
Dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya. This is the Hiroshima styled okonomiyaki which you can then top with as much additional sauce and bonito flakes as you want from containers on the table Dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya. This is the Hiroshima styled okonomiyaki which you can then top with as much additional sauce and bonito flakes as you want from containers on the table Dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya. This is the Hiroshima styled okonomiyaki which you can then top with as much additional sauce and bonito flakes as you want from containers on the table Dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya. This is the Hiroshima styled okonomiyaki which you can then top with as much additional sauce and bonito flakes as you want from containers on the table

How many of the famous signs of Osaka have you heard about or seen before? Which is the one you find most interesting? Have you heard of or tried the Osaka food specialties like takoyaki, kushikatsu, or okonomiyaki before?

Here’s a summary of my Japan Travel post series:

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Japan Travel: Scenic Streets of Gion and a Sake Bar

When I travel to other countries, one of my fun activities I like to do is wander in neighborhoods, just observing the atmosphere and the differences in the buildings, the streets, in the people passing through the streets with me, peering into restaurants and stores (browsing is free, it’s the shopping that gets you!). The Gion area in Kyoto is an area famous for its historic wooden buildings and neighborhoods from the Edo period (1603–1867), so the scenic streets of Gion are a great place to walk around

Gion is also a famous entertainment districts that is full of teahouses and restaurants and bars, traditional performing arts, and is one of a few places you may see a geisha. In the morning, these old fashioned streets of Gion are quiet and are the best time to take photos that capture the wood. Then as it gets later in the day and the dining destinations get open for the evening, the lanterns get lit, and it gets very busy with people hoping to glimpse a geisha on her way to an evening appointment.

Hanamikoji Dori

What we are looking for is Hanamikoji Dori, the second the street on the right side if you are facing east walking away from the river on Shijo Dori.  It’s a street with lovely wooden machiya merchant houses:

Sign on Hanami-koji Street in Gion Walking the streets of Gion in Kyoto during the day - Hanamikoji Dori, the geisha district of on Hanamikoji Street Walking the streets of Gion in Kyoto during the day - Hanamikoji Dori, the geisha district of on Hanamikoji Street Walking the streets of Gion in Kyoto during the day - Hanamikoji Dori, the geisha district of on Hanamikoji Street Walking the streets of Gion in Kyoto during the day - Hanamikoji Dori, the geisha district of on Hanamikoji Street Walking the streets of Gion in Kyoto during the day - Hanamikoji Dori, the geisha district of on Hanamikoji Street Walking the streets of Gion in Kyoto during the day - Hanamikoji Dori, the geisha district of on Hanamikoji Street Walking the streets of Gion in Kyoto during the day - Hanamikoji Dori, the geisha district of on Hanamikoji Street

Don’t be fooled at how traditional and quiet this is because as soon as it’s evening… this was much later after the dinner hour so not as bad as when the streets were literally filled with cars and people trying to make way for each other (there aren’t any marked sidewalks) on their way to dinner. Notice all the lit red lanterns.
"Gion Gion at Night - this is Kyoto's most famous geisha district. Interspersed among the restaurants are a number of ochaya (teahouses), the most exclusive and expensive of Kyoto's dining establishments, where guests are entertained by maiko and geiko: this street specifically is Hanami-koji Street Gion at Night - this is Kyoto's most famous geisha district. Interspersed among the restaurants are a number of ochaya (teahouses), the most exclusive and expensive of Kyoto's dining establishments, where guests are entertained by maiko and geiko: this street specifically is Hanami-koji Street Gion at Night - this is Kyoto's most famous geisha district. Interspersed among the restaurants are a number of ochaya (teahouses), the most exclusive and expensive of Kyoto's dining establishments, where guests are entertained by maiko and geiko: this street specifically is Hanami-koji Street Gion at Night - this is Kyoto's most famous geisha district. Interspersed among the restaurants are a number of ochaya (teahouses), the most exclusive and expensive of Kyoto's dining establishments, where guests are entertained by maiko and geiko: this street specifically is Hanami-koji Street Gion at Night - this is Kyoto's most famous geisha district. Interspersed among the restaurants are a number of ochaya (teahouses), the most exclusive and expensive of Kyoto's dining establishments, where guests are entertained by maiko and geiko: this street specifically is Hanami-koji Street Gion at Night - this is Kyoto's most famous geisha district. Interspersed among the restaurants are a number of ochaya (teahouses), the most exclusive and expensive of Kyoto's dining establishments, where guests are entertained by maiko and geiko: this street specifically is Hanami-koji Street Gion at Night - this is Kyoto's most famous geisha district. Interspersed among the restaurants are a number of ochaya (teahouses), the most exclusive and expensive of Kyoto's dining establishments, where guests are entertained by maiko and geiko: this street specifically is Hanami-koji Street

Shirakawa Area

Go back across Shijo Dori and head 3 blocks north, turning left on Shinbashi Dori. Here in the Shirakawa Area – follow the street just along the small river here – there’s a interesting juxtaposition of the old fashioned wooden machiya houses here and the modern urban street poles and wires.
More walking around towards another scenic part of Gion, the Shirakawa Area - there More walking around towards another scenic part of Gion, the Shirakawa Area - there's a interesting juxtaposition of the old fashioned preserved machiya houses here and the modern urban street poles and wires More walking around towards another scenic part of Gion, the Shirakawa Area - there's a interesting juxtaposition of the old fashioned preserved machiya houses here and the modern urban street poles and wires More walking around towards another scenic part of Gion, the Shirakawa Area - there's a interesting juxtaposition of the old fashioned preserved machiya houses here and the modern urban street poles and wires

The canal is lined by willow trees, high class restaurants and ochaya, many of which have rooms overlooking the canal. It’s interesting here because we can look into the room like it’s an exhibit as people enjoy dinners in private rooms with complete and no privacy.
Another scenic part of Gion is the Shirakawa Area which runs along the Shirakawa Canal parallel to Shijo Avenue. The canal is lined by willow trees, high class restaurants and ochaya, many of which have rooms overlooking the canal. It's interesting here because we can look into the room like it's an exhibit...

Now here’s a look when we walked by in the morning. Lonely Planet opines is “one of Kyoto’s most beautiful streets and, arguably, the most beautiful street in all of Asia, especially in the evening and during cherry-blossom season.” It’s December so we’ll just have to imagine the cherry blossoms
Walking in Gion during the day - this is is Shimbashi (sometimes called Shirakawa Minami-dōri), which Lonely Planet opines is 'one of Kyoto’s most beautiful streets and, arguably, the most beautiful street in all of Asia, especially in the evening and during cherry-blossom season.' Of course now, the cherry blossom trees are completely empty branches Walking in Gion during the day - this is is Shimbashi (sometimes called Shirakawa Minami-dōri), which Lonely Planet opines is 'one of Kyoto’s most beautiful streets and, arguably, the most beautiful street in all of Asia, especially in the evening and during cherry-blossom season.' Of course now, the cherry blossom trees are completely empty branches Walking in Gion during the day - this is is Shimbashi (sometimes called Shirakawa Minami-dōri), which Lonely Planet opines is 'one of Kyoto’s most beautiful streets and, arguably, the most beautiful street in all of Asia, especially in the evening and during cherry-blossom season.' Of course now, the cherry blossom trees are completely empty branches Walking in Gion during the day - this is is Shimbashi (sometimes called Shirakawa Minami-dōri), which Lonely Planet opines is 'one of Kyoto’s most beautiful streets and, arguably, the most beautiful street in all of Asia, especially in the evening and during cherry-blossom season.' Of course now, the cherry blossom trees are completely empty branches Walking in Gion during the day - this is is Shimbashi (sometimes called Shirakawa Minami-dōri), which Lonely Planet opines is 'one of Kyoto’s most beautiful streets and, arguably, the most beautiful street in all of Asia, especially in the evening and during cherry-blossom season.' Of course now, the cherry blossom trees are completely empty branches Walking in Gion during the day - this is is Shimbashi (sometimes called Shirakawa Minami-dōri), which Lonely Planet opines is 'one of Kyoto’s most beautiful streets and, arguably, the most beautiful street in all of Asia, especially in the evening and during cherry-blossom season.' Of course now, the cherry blossom trees are completely empty branches

Ishibei-koji Lane

My vote for most scenic street that is like a step back in time is the short walk along  Ishibei-koji Lane, located just by Kodaji Temple that I had covered previously. At only 200 meters it’s short and more like an alley than a street, but Lonely Planet also dubs this too “perhaps the most beautiful street in Kyoto” and Inside Kyoto called Kyoto’s most atmospheric pedestrian-only walkway. There is no sign for this, so prepare to orient yourself using GPS.
In the morning, these old fashioned streets in Gion, Kyoto are quiet. We are walking along Ishibei-koji Lane, what Inside Kyoto called Kyoto’s most atmospheric pedestrian-only walkway and Lonely Planet calls 'perhaps the most beautiful street in Kyoto' In the morning, these old fashioned streets in Gion, Kyoto are quiet. We are walking along Ishibei-koji Lane, what Inside Kyoto called Kyoto’s most atmospheric pedestrian-only walkway and Lonely Planet calls 'perhaps the most beautiful street in Kyoto' In the morning, these old fashioned streets in Gion, Kyoto are quiet. We are walking along Ishibei-koji Lane, what Inside Kyoto called Kyoto’s most atmospheric pedestrian-only walkway and Lonely Planet calls 'perhaps the most beautiful street in Kyoto' In the morning, these old fashioned streets in Gion, Kyoto are quiet. We are walking along Ishibei-koji Lane, what Inside Kyoto called Kyoto’s most atmospheric pedestrian-only walkway and Lonely Planet calls 'perhaps the most beautiful street in Kyoto'

These wooden machiya townhouses are rapidly disappearing from Kyoto, having had the good fortune to survive World War II (new machiya are prohibited from being built now, leaving only restoration) but now the difficult and expensive maintainace means many are being demolished in favor of modern buildings. I highly recommend when in Kyoto taking a walk in at least one of the above streets to get a feel of being a pedestrian in Kyoto a hundred or do years ago. For a more in depth experience, Iori, a company founded by a traditional culture advocate, rents multiple machiya for guests to stay.

Jam Hostel’s Sake Bar

Not far from the Shirakawa area and Gion – Shijo station is this recommended bar from the owner of Beer Komachi – Jam Hostel’s Sake Bar. This is why I love asking local industry people their recommendations: its location in a hostel meant I probably would have overlooked it. But she sent us to this location reassuring it was well worth it for us even if it also serving as a hostel was unusual. Boy was she right. The menu was probably a dozen pages long full of sake options to order individually, as well as offering flights and it could be served cold or hot. There were flights that were dedicated to being local to Kyoto as well as a few other prefectures including the owner’s home region of Niigata.

. Jam Hostel's Sake Bar has an extensive selection of sake, and you can purchase flights or get small pours of a wide variety of sake Jam Hostel's Sake Bar has an extensive selection of sake, and you can purchase flights or get small pours of a wide variety of sake Jam Hostel's Sake Bar has an extensive selection of sake, and you can purchase flights or get small pours of a wide variety of sake Jam Hostel's Sake Bar has an extensive selection of sake, and you can purchase flights or get small pours of a wide variety of sake Jam Hostel's Sake Bar has an extensive selection of sake, and you can purchase flights or get small pours of a wide variety of sake Jam Hostel's Sake Bar has an extensive selection of sake, and you can purchase flights or get small pours of a wide variety of sakeJam Hostel's Sake Bar has an extensive selection of sake, and you can purchase flights or get small pours of a wide variety of sake Jam Hostel's Sake Bar has an extensive selection of sake, and you can purchase flights or get small pours of a wide variety of sake

This was my very favorite sake of the night, and pretty much ever – Kaisyun / Shimane Kimoto and wooden barrel aged sake. The owner tried to warn us that it was very strong, but we convinced him we were up to the task. I was pretty surprised when it poured so dark and thick, almost like a balsamic vinegar – but it was so full of thick flavors that swirled and changed on the tongue that I was in love.
Jam Hostel's Sake Bar has an extensive selection of sake, and you can purchase flights or get small pours of a wide variety of sake. This was my very favorite sake of the night, and pretty much ever - Kaisyun / Shimane Kimoto and wooden barrel aged sake

I have no idea where or how to get this type of sake here in Portland. But, if you are interested in sampling sake, there is in June the annual Sake Fest that you might want to consider where you can taste sake for hours and learn!

These stops in today’s post could be done together in a circle. We actually stayed at an Air BnB close by which I picked specifically to near Gion because I wanted to be in easy walking distance to great food and drink, so it was easy to visit all these locations by night and day. It’s my usual modus operandi when picking a place to stay: map out the things I want to eat and drink and stay nearby the food!

If you are going to do a walking tour and not staying in the area, you will probably arrive via Keihan Main line at Gion – Shijo Station and you should proceed first with Hanamikoji Dori, then Ishibei Koji, then circle back to the Shirakawa Area and finish at the Sake Bar – and you could combine this once you get towards Ishibei Koji with some of the Kyoto Temples and Shrines I wrote about earlier as they are nearby.

Alternatively if you are on the east side towards Yasaka Shine, go to Ishibei Koji first, then walk west towards the river to Hanamikoji Dori and the Shirakawa area then the Sake Bar to finish at the Gion – Shijo station is just to the east side of the river.

Do you have a favorite walking neighborhood from your travels, where is it? How crazy is that sign about not harassing the geishas at the beginning of this post?

This concludes my Travel Tuesday posts about Kyoto – we only stayed in the city for 3 days. So next we’ll shift from historical to modern as we go to Osaka next week!

Here’s a summary of my Japan Travel post series:

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Japan Travel: Kyoto Tofu

For Travel Tuesday in Japan this time, I want to take a break from the sightseeing and let’s talk about some Kyoto food! As I mentioned, Kyoto served as the capital for Japan for about 1000 years, so has a culinary lineage that includes royalty and imperial court, as well as the base for literally thousands of temples and shrines in the area. Famous kinds of foodie goals to seek out while in Kyoto include

  • Kaiseki, elaborate haute multi-course traditional Japanese dinners
  • Shojin Ryori, Japanese Buddhist vegetarian cuisine
  • Tofu
  • Sake

I have already shared with you how I enjoyed a kaiseki dinner and breakfast when I stayed at a ryokan by Mount Fuji. You can see a great breakdown of what are the kinds of foods you would see in a kaiseki here at Japan Guide and Japan Talk.

And I showed you a Zen vegetarian shojin ryori lunch at Shigetsu restaurant at Tenryu-ji Temple at Arashiyama.

But, did you also know that the waters in Kyoto are reknown for how clear and pure its waters are, and some byproducts of utilizing that perfect water are Tofu and Sake? In fact, Tofu is considered a local specialty in Kyoto, might be considered the best in Japan, and is popular enough to be Tofu Ryori (“tofu cuisine”).

Tofu is everywhere – and it’s really tasty. I discovered I’m in love with yuba (tofu skin). In fact the common availability of Kyoto tofu is one of the reasons F found Kyoto to be his favorite destination of all the places we visited in Japan during our 2 week trip. If you are vegetarian, even vegan, you are going to get along well in Kyoto.

Yudofu

During our visits to Kyoto temples and shrines, we stopped at a restaurant just below stage at Kiyomizudera by Otawa Waterfall’s 3 streams for a late breakfast and fueling of Yudofu. Yudofu is a hot soybean curd- it was a bargain for 2 people at 800 yen I thought. You carefully remove a piece from the hot water with light flavoring, and then in your own individual bowl add condiments like green onion or sauce (you can see the sauce container is placed in part of the yudofu wooden bath). Simple perfection.

It’s hard to describe what it could be comparable to –  the tofu is solid but soft, almost the texture of big dumplings in being solid yet soft, and absorbing the flavors in the bowl while offering its own clean freshness.
Yudofu - we stopped at a restaurant just below the famous stage at Kiyomizudera by Otawa Waterfall's 3 streams. Yudofu is a hot soybean curd- it was a bargain for 2 people at 800 yen I thought. You carefully remove a piece from the hot water with light flavoring, and then in your own individual bowl add condiments like green onion or sauce Yudofu - we stopped at a restaurant just below the famous stage at Kiyomizudera by Otawa Waterfall's 3 streams. Yudofu is a hot soybean curd- it was a bargain for 2 people at 800 yen I thought. You carefully remove a piece from the hot water with light flavoring, and then in your own individual bowl add condiments like green onion or sauce Yudofu - we stopped at a restaurant just below the famous stage at Kiyomizudera by Otawa Waterfall's 3 streams. Yudofu is a hot soybean curd- it was a bargain for 2 people at 800 yen I thought. You carefully remove a piece from the hot water with light flavoring, and then in your own individual bowl add condiments like green onion or sauce Yudofu - we stopped at a restaurant just below the famous stage at Kiyomizudera by Otawa Waterfall's 3 streams. Yudofu is a hot soybean curd- it was a bargain for 2 people at 800 yen I thought. You carefully remove a piece from the hot water with light flavoring, and then in your own individual bowl add condiments like green onion or sauce

Tofu with Beer

We went to a craft beer bar called Beer Komachi that along with their local Kyoto and Japanese brews and a few imports also offered an izakaya food menu that included vegetarian friendly options including tofu options of Tofu Pizza (which F ordered twice during our visit it was so good). I was taken aback how how great Yuba soy milk skin goes with beer,  and it’s fresh creaminess was surprisingly reminiscent of burrata!
Beer Komachi offers izakaya style food highlighting Kyoto ingredients along with craft beers in Kyoto Beer Komachi offers izakaya style food highlighting Kyoto ingredients along with craft beers in Kyoto Beer Komachi offers izakaya style food highlighting Kyoto ingredients along with craft beers in Kyoto At Beer Komachi in Kyoto offering craft beer and craft food, Beer Komachi offers izakaya style food along with craft beers in Kyoto. The chef has a very small kitchen to work from of only a stove, deep fryer, oven, and toaster oven but puts out lots of options from the kitchen The Deep Fried Tofu Pizza at Beer Komachi, Kyoto, so good that Fred ordered a second one shortly after finishing the first order Kyoto's Yuba Soy Milk Skin - at Beer Komachi. I really liked this dish, and it goes really well with beer

Tofu Kaiseki at Tousuiro

There is one restaurant that specializes in Tofu Kaiseki in Kyoto called Tousuiro – it has two locations, and it turns out the one in Gion was essentially just a block away from our AirBnB. So I had F ask a colleague who can speak Japanese to call and make a reservation for us, ensuring that at least his dinner would really be completely vegetarian  – my version could include seafood. Here’s a look at our experience to Tousuiro

Outside of Tousiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant Outside of Tousiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant

We ordered local Kyoto sake to enjoy with our dinner.
Sake - first bottle we ordered at Tousuiro of a local sake Sake - second bottle we ordered at Tousuiro of a local sake

When we arrived, we removed our shoes and were seated at a chef’s bar that thankfully had sunken seating (Zashiki) so although we were on the floor I didn’t have to sit awkwardly in my dress and could stretch my legs in the sunken floor. Sitting at the bar meant we got to watch the chef prepare everything, though we didn’t really talk because I don’t think he spoke much English. Our only communications was to express with gestures how beautiful and delicious everything we had was.

Even looking back at these photos, I am a little teary eyed at how achingly exquisite this meal was. I didn’t want to be obnoxious with my camera so was trying to take them quickly and also eat at a good pace as I think we were among the last seating for the evening. But I hated destroying by eating the stunning art before me, even though I knew that was its purpose. Ha such mixed feelings…

First course

This is the “can have seafood” version I ate
Tousuiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. This is the can have seafood version of the first course Tousuiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. This is the can have seafood version of the first course Tousuiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. This is the can have seafood version of the first courseTousiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. This is the can have seafood version of the first course Tousuiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. This is the can have seafood version of the first course Tousuiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. This is the can have seafood version of the first course

This is the vegetarian version
Tousuiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. This is the can have vegetarian version of the first course Tousuiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. This is the can have vegetarian version of the first course Tousuiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. This is the can have vegetarian version of the first course

Second Course

Yudofu. We ate the same thing, but had different sauces to add to the tofu. The chef said we could get this refilled as many times as we wanted. We had him refill it once, but were afraid to do any more or we wouldn’t be able to eat the other courses though we didn’t know what was coming yet…
Tousuiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. The Yudofu here is sublime and supreme Tousuiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. The Yudofu here is sublime and supreme

Third Course

Soup- my version that can include seafood, and his that is completely vegetarian. I think his was better.
Tousuiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. This is the vegetarian version of the soup course

Fourth Course

I had been tortured by the scent of the chargrilled tofu for a while, and was so stoked when it finally arrived. His version didn’t have the shrimp on the plate but was otherwise the same. It was sooo good, one of my top two favorite dishes of the night with the smoky sweetness from the grill and miso sauce that has carmelized.
Tousuiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. This chargrilled tofu skewer was one of my favorite of the night with its smoky sweetness, the vegetarian version doesn't have the shrimp on the plate obviously

Fifth Course

This is the “can have seafood” version I ate
Tousiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. This is the can have seafood version of the fifth course Tousiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. This is the can have seafood version of the fifth course

This is the vegetarian version
Tousuiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. This is the vegetarian version of the fifth course Tousuiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. This is the vegetarian version of the fifth course

Sixth Course

I always love how gorgeous and elegant the bowls are and then the surprise when you open it to reveal what’s inside! This is the “can have seafood” version I ate
Tousiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. This is the can have seafood version of the sixth course Tousiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. This is the can have seafood version of the sixth course

This is the vegetarian version
Tousiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. This is the vegetarian version of the sixth course Tousiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. This is the vegetarian version of the sixth course

Seventh Course

I was super jealous of his vegetarian course with the yuba.
Tousiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. This is the vegetarian version of the 7th course Tousiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. This is the vegetarian version of the 7th course

This is the “can have seafood” version I ate
Tousiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. This is the can have seafood version of the 7th course Tousiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. This is the can have seafood version of the 7th course

Eighth Course

Dessert!
Tousiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. This is the 8th course, dessert Tousiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. This is the 8th course, dessert Tousiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. This is the 8th course, dessertTousiro, a Tofu Kaiseki restaurant. Tousuiro specializes in homemade tofu and offers a kaiseki dinner that can include seafood or can also be completely vegetarian. This is the 8th course, dessert

 

If you think you don’t like tofu – I would suggest that perhaps you haven’t really tried high quality, fresh tofu yet. The difference between the tofu that I made faces at when I first started dating F and was trying to figure out which plastic packaged in water kind to get at Whole Foods and how now I mainly get my fresh tofu at Bui Tofu (best tofu in Portland I think) is vast – sort of like the difference between frozen microwavable burgers and the best burgers in town like at Toro Bravo or Little Bird (my current faves). It’s like American cheese vs real aged cheeses.

There are many preparations of tofu out there – some almost disguise it such as in Chinese MaPo Tofu or Korean SoonDuBu Jjigae with so much spice. What I really love about the Japanese treatments you see here is that they keep it simple and let you really taste the tofu’s clean flavors that can be creamy like with yuba, smokey and sweet like with the grilled skewers, silky yet firm like in yudofo, or solid enough to be a vehicle for toppings with tofu pizza. You just have to find what fits you.

I would go to Kyoto again in a heartbeat, and definitely seek out tofu again. Did any of these dishes intrigue you, would you try any of them? Did you know tofu was such a specialty in Kyoto?

Here’s a summary of my Japan Travel post series:

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