Santa Fe Travels: Bandelier National Monument

May 24, 2016 by 6 Comments

I spent a week in Santa Fe, and was surprised at how much I really enjoyed it. I knew it would offer great arts, culture, and wonderful dining, but I underestimated it’s powerful combination of history and nature.

My first taste of this was visiting the famous Bandelier National Monument. Going in, I only knew they were ruins with some ladder climbing. Actually, Bandelier National Monument is a National Park that covers 33,000 acres that includes multiple signs of the people who have lived here in the past 11,000 years in various locations. They are open daily, year round, from dawn to dusk, and includes a campground (Juniper Campground) and a Visitor Center (9 AM -6 PM mid May – October, 9 AM -4:30 PM off peak season).

During this peak season, during peak times, the park limits congestion as well as pollutants by requiring in most cases visitors to take a free shuttle bus into the park with a few exceptions based on time, campers, and bicycles, going to other trails besides the main one (Main Loop Trail) for instance. There is ample parking by where the shuttle bus picks up at the White Rock Visitor Center, and by riding the bus you can enjoy some of the views on the way to the Bandelier Visitor Center.

Bus to Bandelier National Monument is required to limit congestion and pollutants during peak season, peak times Bus to Bandelier National Monument is required to limit congestion and pollutants during peak season, peak times

When we arrived, a park ranger was standing outside to greet our bus with a short welcome as well as telling us about the two main sites along the Main Loop Trail. Many people might only visit the village of Tyuonyi and Cliff Dwellings and turn around after an approximately 1 hour round trip and easy 1 1/4 mile total walk. Others like F and I went on for an extra 30 minutes and 1/2 mile each way to Alcove House which has a steep 140 foot climb on 4 ladders –  so definitely is not for those afraid of heights.

There is a little pamphlet the ranger pointed out that besides the $12 entrance fee for the park, that you can purchase for an additional $1 to give you more information about everything you see. I think the mini guide is highly worth the small additional fee as it gives you information at 21 numbered points along the Main Loop Trail.
Bandelier National Monument, arriving at the visitor center the bus was greeted by a ranger who gives a quick couple minute intro

Here’s a little look at some of the wonderful views while I’m still standing in the parking lot of the Bandelier Visitor Center… we haven’t even walked into the visitor center yet. Also make sure you do your bathroom stop here before you to go out as there are no facilities past the visitor center along the trails! There is also a small cafe for food and drinks if you wish.
Bandelier National Monument - view at the Visitors Center parking lot

The pink rock of the canyon wall here in the Frijoles Canyon is volcanic ash that compacted over time into a soft crumbly rock called tuff. Tuff is very easily eroded wind and rain, with some components of the tuff eroding more easily than others so that over time the exposed rock takes on a Swiss Cheese appearance. You can see then why this area was popular with the Ancestral Pueblo people (also known as Anasazi) who could use tools to enlarge openings and create stone dwellings.
The pink rock of the canyon wall here in the Frijoles Canyon of Bandelier National Monument may look like sandstone, but it is actually volcanic ash that compacted over time into a soft crumbly rock called Tuff. Tuff is very easily eroded wind and rain, with some components of the tuff eroding more easily than others so that over time the exposed rock takes on a Swiss Cheese appearance. The pink rock of the canyon wall here in the Frijoles Canyon of Bandelier National Monument may look like sandstone, but it is actually volcanic ash that compacted over time into a soft crumbly rock called Tuff. Tuff is very easily eroded wind and rain, with some components of the tuff eroding more easily than others so that over time the exposed rock takes on a Swiss Cheese appearance.

Tyounyi and Cliff Dwellings

Let’s start with the Main Loop Trail towards Tyounyi and Cliff Dwellings. This is the most popular route, a 1.2 mile loop trail that is easy and may take you an hour round trip and includes the 21 stops along Tyounyi pueblo and Cliff Dwellings before you loop back described in the $1 mini guide from the visitor center.

The first thing you will come across is a Kiva, an underground structure that serves as a community center. Back in the day, it would have been covered by a roof of wood and dirt that was plastered with mud strong enough so people could walk on it. and the roof itself is also supported by six wooden pillars. People would have entered the darkened underground room lit by torches by climbing a ladder down.
Bandelier National Monument in New Mexico, Kiva, an underground structure that serves as a community center

Not far after the kiva you will encounter the walls of the village of Tyuonyi, which is only one of several large puebelos inside the Bandelier National Monument. Tyuonyi was about two stories and four hundred rooms.
These walls belong to the village of Tyuonyi, one of several large pueblos located within Bandelier National Monument. One to two stories high, Tyuonyi contaiend about 400 rooms and housed about 100 people. Access to the village was through a single ground level opening

You won’t see this view until you are further along the path, but I’ll show them now to help give you an idea of the size of Tyuonyi village.
These walls belong to the village of Tyuonyi, one of several large pueblos located within Bandelier National Monument. One to two stories high, Tyuonyi contaiend about 400 rooms and housed about 100 people. Access to the village was through a single ground level opening These walls belong to the village of Tyuonyi, one of several large pueblos located within Bandelier National Monument. One to two stories high, Tyuonyi contaiend about 400 rooms and housed about 100 people. Access to the village was through a single ground level opening

One of the fascinating thoughts I had was how Tyuonyi was constructed six hundred years ago – but at those same times, the caves were also occupied. You can even see the cliff dwellings now from Tyounyi – and the photos above were when I was at the cliff dwellings look back upon Tyuonyi. It makes you wonder what determined who lived in the caves or in the canyon. Family? Clan? Preference, like the way some people choose to live in the city and others in the suburbs?
Bandelier National Monument. In the forefront of the photo, the walls of the village of Tyuonyi. Even further back, you can see the walls of the Cliff Dwellings where there are cave rooms we are about to start walking towards. Tree ring dating shows the construction of these homes was more than 600 years ago, and the caves were occupied at the same time. The choice to live in the caves or in the canyon bottom may have been based on family, clan custom, or maybe simply preference Bandelier National Monument. In the forefront of the photo, the walls of the village of Tyuonyi. Even further back, you can see the walls of the Cliff Dwellings where there are cave rooms we are about to start walking towards. Tree ring dating shows the construction of these homes was more than 600 years ago, and the caves were occupied at the same time. The choice to live in the caves or in the canyon bottom may have been based on family, clan custom, or maybe simply preference

There’s a fork slightly after the Tyuonyi village where you can choose to go to the first set of Cliff Dwellings, called Talus Houses, but which have several stairs, or you can take the trail to the Cliff Dwellings called Long House that has fewer stairs. We visited both so you can see the difference between the two. The Talus Houses will have ladders to visit inside the dwellings, but the Cliff Dwellings will not.

The Cliff Dwellings in the Talus Houses area are many cave rooms / cavates and alcoves, often with ceilings blackened by soot to harden them, and perhaps some rock drawings. Be sure to stay on the trail and only enter caves that have ladders because you don’t want to contribute to eroding the tuff.
These cave rooms in the Bandelier National Monument, classified as cavates, were dug out of the cliff wall. These cave rooms in the Bandelier National Monument, classified as cavates, were dug out of the cliff wall. These cave rooms in the Bandelier National Monument, classified as cavates, were dug out of the cliff wall. Be sure to stay on the trail and only enter caves that have ladders because you don't want to contribute to eroding the tuff. These cave rooms in the Bandelier National Monument, classified as cavates, were dug out of the cliff wall to create these cliff dwellings.

And here’s another view of Tyounyi Village from the viewpoint of the Cave Dwellings
Bandelier National Monument. View of the village of Tyuonyi from one of the cavates of the Cliff Dwellings. Tree ring dating shows the construction of Tyounyi was more than 600 years ago, and the caves were occupied at the same time. The choice to live in the caves or in the canyon bottom may have been based on family, clan custom, or maybe simply preference Bandelier National Monument. View of the village of Tyuonyi from oby the Cliff Dwellings. Tree ring dating shows the construction of Tyounyi was more than 600 years ago, and the caves were occupied at the same time. The choice to live in the caves or in the canyon bottom may have been based on family, clan custom, or maybe simply preference Bandelier National Monument. View of the village of Tyuonyi from oby the Cliff Dwellings. Tree ring dating shows the construction of Tyounyi was more than 600 years ago, and the caves were occupied at the same time. The choice to live in the caves or in the canyon bottom may have been based on family, clan custom, or maybe simply preference Bandelier National Monument. View of the village of Tyuonyi from oby the Cliff Dwellings. Tree ring dating shows the construction of Tyounyi was more than 600 years ago, and the caves were occupied at the same time. The choice to live in the caves or in the canyon bottom may have been based on family, clan custom, or maybe simply preference

The trail here zig zags with stairs through the cliffs, and provides access to more dwellings. The Ancestral Pueblo were small people, averaging five feet for women and five feet six for men, and living to about 35 years. The fact that there are many homes in this row along the canyon wall made me wonder if it was humming with activity like the village of Tyuonyi, or maybe this was the quieter suburbs with slightly more privacy? Or was this the “city high rise” life of its time?
These cave rooms in the Bandelier National Monument, classified as cavates, were dug out of the cliff wall to create these cliff dwellings. These cave rooms in the Bandelier National Monument, classified as cavates, were dug out of the cliff wall to create these cliff dwellings. These cave rooms in the Bandelier National Monument, classified as cavates, were dug out of the cliff wall to create these cliff dwellings. These cave rooms in the Bandelier National Monument, classified as cavates, were dug out of the cliff wall to create these cliff dwellings.

Some of the pathways were quite slim, fitting only one person. You can also see when we looked back why we were pretty much alone or only with a handful of people – there was a big storm on the horizon, including lightening. Fortunately the wind blew the storm a different direction past us. I didn’t encounter it until much later in the evening, while driving from back to our lodgings after a post hike stop at Santa Fe Brewing.
Looking back from the Talus Houses Cliff Dwellings in Bandelier National Monument at the storm on the horrizon, and the slim pathway fitting only one person we went through

Now we have arrived at the part of Cliff Dwellings known as Long House. These are multi-storied dwellings along a cliff base and with carved petroglyphs. You can count the stories by counting the rows of holes. Extended families lived together with each group having their own storage room, sleeping quarters, and kiva. There are no ladders to visit any of these dwellings.
These cave rooms in the Bandelier National Monument, classified as cavates, were dug out of the cliff wall to create these cliff dwellings. This is Long House, multi-storied dwellings along a cliff base and with carved petroglyphs. You can count the stories by counting the rows of holes. These cave rooms in the Bandelier National Monument, classified as cavates, were dug out of the cliff wall to create these cliff dwellings. This is Long House, multi-storied dwellings along a cliff base and with carved petroglyphs. You can count the stories by counting the rows of holes. These cave rooms in the Bandelier National Monument, classified as cavates, were dug out of the cliff wall to create these cliff dwellings. This is Long House, multi-storied dwellings along a cliff base and with carved petroglyphs. You can count the stories by counting the rows of holes. These cave rooms in the Bandelier National Monument, classified as cavates, were dug out of the cliff wall to create these cliff dwellings. This is Long House, multi-storied dwellings along a cliff base and with carved petroglyphs. You can count the stories by counting the rows of holes.

Alcove House

Walk another 30 minutes, about 1/2 a mile one way, rather than turning around to return to the visitors center if you want to visit Alcove House. It’s an easy walk, but once you are at Alcove House there is nothing to look at unless you brave the ladders – 140 feet of 4 steep ladders.
Bandelier National Monument, visiting Alcove House. After Long House Cliff Dwellings, it's an easy walk 1/2 mile walk to here, but once you are at Alcove House there is nothing to look at unless you brave the ladders - 140 feet of 4 steep ladders. Bandelier National Monument, visiting Alcove House. After Long House Cliff Dwellings, it's an easy walk 1/2 mile walk to here, but once you are at Alcove House there is nothing to look at unless you brave the ladders - 140 feet of 4 steep ladders.

I did mention they were steep right? It’s the same way going up and down – only the ladders.
Bandelier National Monument, visiting Alcove House. After Long House Cliff Dwellings, it's an easy walk 1/2 mile walk to here, but once you are at Alcove House there is nothing to look at unless you brave the ladders - 140 feet of 4 steep ladders. Bandelier National Monument, visiting Alcove House. After Long House Cliff Dwellings, it's an easy walk 1/2 mile walk to here, but once you are at Alcove House there is nothing to look at unless you brave the ladders - 140 feet of 4 steep ladders to reach an alcove area.

You are climbing to the top to reach a large alcove area.
Bandelier National Monument, visiting Alcove House. After Long House Cliff Dwellings, it's an easy walk 1/2 mile walk to here, but once you are at Alcove House there is nothing to look at unless you brave the ladders - 140 feet of 4 steep ladders to reach an alcove area. Bandelier National Monument, visiting Alcove House. After Long House Cliff Dwellings, it's an easy walk 1/2 mile walk to here, but once you are at Alcove House there is nothing to look at unless you brave the ladders - 140 feet of 4 steep ladders to reach an alcove area. Bandelier National Monument, visiting Alcove House. After Long House Cliff Dwellings, it's an easy walk 1/2 mile walk to here, but once you are at Alcove House there is nothing to look at unless you brave the ladders - 140 feet of 4 steep ladders to reach an alcove area.

Eats and Drinks

On the way to Bandelier National Monument, consider stopping to eat before or after your visit at Gabriel’s. We happened to pick Gabriel’s to fuel us, and then went to Santa Fe Brewing Company (which is just a simple no frills tasting room with beer only) after the park visit.

Here’s the view just from the parking lot! There is some outdoor seating that has this view too. There really is something about how blue the skies are in this area.
we stop for lunch at Gabriel's which had this view from their parking lot. There really is something about how blue the skies are in this area Lunch at Gabriel's, just outside Santa Fe and on the way to Bandelier National Monument Lunch at Gabriel's, just outside Santa Fe and on the way to Bandelier National Monument Lunch at Gabriel's, it was too cool outside to sit on the patio but there was a great view

I also loved how the inside is full of unique bold bright Southwest art with nods to nature, especially the ornamental birdhouses.
Lunch at Gabriel's, the inside was pretty fun with lots of cool art and these fun ornamental birdhouses you see hanging Lunch at Gabriel's, the inside was pretty fun with lots of cool art and these fun ornamental birdhouses you see hanging Lunch at Gabriel's, the inside was pretty fun with lots of cool art and these fun ornamental birdhouses you see hanging Lunch at Gabriel's, the inside was pretty fun with lots of cool art and these fun ornamental birdhouses you see hanging

The complimentary chips and salsa were good, but we also added in some of the tableside made guacamole
Lunch at Gabriel's, the complimentary chips and salsa were good, but we also added in some of the tableside made guacamole Lunch at Gabriel's, the complimentary chips and salsa were good, but we also added in some of the tableside made guacamole Lunch at Gabriel's, the complimentary chips and salsa were good, but we also added in some of the tableside made guacamole Lunch at Gabriel's, the complimentary chips and salsa were good, but we also added in some of the tableside made guacamole

For the vegetarian, you have choices like the vegetarian Black Bean Burrito with southwestern style Black Beans and served with rice and corn. Also available were vegetarian enchiladas tamales, and fajitas.
Lunch at Gabriel's, Black Bean Burritio with southwestern style Black Beans and served with rice and cor

I was tempted by multiple dishes but eventually picked out the Green Chili Stew (which I forgot to take a photo of, it was a chunks of pork and potatoes stewed in New Mexico green chile served with soft tortillas) and this Puerto Vallarta dish of lump crab, tiger prawns and chicken breast sautéed in a fresh tomato and white wine sauce and topped with melted cheese. I would definitely recommend Gabriel’s and would return myself for more of the menu that I was tempted by!
Lunch at Gabriel's, the Puerto Vallarta dish of lump crab, tiger prawns and chicken breast sautéed in a fresh tomato and white wine sauce and topped with melted cheese

Gabriel's Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Have you been to New Mexico, or Santa Fe, or Bandelier National Monument? What do you think of the sights I shared at Bandelier? Would you go up and down the ladders of Alcove House?

Here’s the summary of my series of posts on Santa Fe, New Mexico Travels

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Japan Travel: Visiting Himeji Castle

May 3, 2016 by 11 Comments

I couldn’t go to Japan without seeing a castle this time – and I always knew which one it would be. It would be Himeji Castle, also known as the White Heron Castle (Shirasagijo) or White Egret Castle (Hakurojo) due to its elegant bird like silhouette from its curved roofs and the white color of the plaster walls which helped it survive since plaster won’t burn down (unlike most of the other castles in Japan). Himeji is one of Japan’s only 12 completely original castles.
Himeji Castle also known as White Heron Castle (Shirasagijo) due to its elegant, white appearance is situated on a high hill

This is the one that I have admired for years with it’s bright white walls from postcard and pictures even when I was young just passing through Narita for an airplane transfer. It didn’t matter which season, this castle always looks stunning – whether it be with the brilliant red and orange autumn foliage around it, or covered in snow, or with the blossom of cherry trees and the castle park also with its plum, peach, azalea and wisteria growing on the grounds. Or in the case when I came in December, with none of those atmospheric elements and just the castle on its own.
Himeji Castle also known as White Heron Castle (Shirasagijo) due to its elegant, white appearance is situated on a high hill

We took the shinkansen train here from Kyoto – though you can also use Osaka as your home base if you want, since Himeji Station lies between these two cities at only an hour away. From Tokyo I think by shinkansen it’s about 4 hours away, so also possible as a day trip. As you walk out of the train station you can see it vaguely at the end of the street already because it’s on a hill. From the train station it was a 20 minute walk along the main boulevard, watching Himeji Castle get bigger and bigger as you get closer. Takopost has a great Himeji Castle Day Trip blog post showing pictures of the approach as well as some of the inside and tips.

Then, here is your view as your cross the last street into the park area. Also in the surrounding area besides the castle are a garden and city zoo and what looked like an amusement park. The moat here is one of three moats that were originally encircling Himeji Castle – there are only 2 moats that survive as the outmost moat has been buried.
Himeji Castle, Japan - our first look once we walked down the main boulevard and crossed the last street into the park here. Also in the surrounding area are a garden and city zoo and what looked like an amusement park. The castle was originally encircled by three moats, of which two still survive Himeji Castle, Japan - the castle was originally encircled by three moats, of which two still survive

We visited the castle when it first opened in the morning – in fact we arrived maybe 30 minutes before the admission gates opened. I knew that for the past 5 1/2 years, Himeji Castle has had scaffolding covering the castle while restoring and making repairs, and had only reopened earlier in March of 2015 revealing the full castle walls again. So, since it’s reopening it has been a popular attraction even for locals to revisit.

The pictures from Takopost from July 2015 had shown huge crowds and queues of people shuffling in constant lines through and around the castle, and I did not want that experience. He advised immediately getting in line and admiring the grounds outside after. So I intentionally came early to beat any tour groups or school trips, and hoped that the fact it was New Year’s week meant it wasn’t as much of a draw. This paid off in that we were among the first 50 people in… and it turn out to be a light visit day so we never felt crowded and could take our time in all areas. If you want to guess what the crowds might be, the official Himeji Castle website has a calendar where you can look at the probable amount of visitors for that time.
Open area around Himeji Castle as you approach it from Himeji Station Himeji Castle also known as White Heron Castle (Shirasagijo) due to its elegant, white appearance is situated on a high hill

On your way you may see some of the resident cats on the property! Supposedly there are sometimes people who are dressed like samurai or ninja that are sometimes here to earn money taking photos with tourists, but we didn’t see any. Just the kitties. There was quite a small crowd around them – they are obviously being fed by someone here – as we watched one cat unsuccessfully stalk a crow several times. This feeding area we saw was right outside where the line to enter Himeji starts, where there are public park restrooms. Once you are inside Himeji Castle, there are not restrooms available until you reach the Inner Keep area (where the photo with me above was taken, after already going up and down the main keep).
Some of the cats on the Himeji Castle park area Some of the cats on the Himeji Castle park area

After paying admission into the main keep grounds, you have to follow many winding paths through doorways (there were 84 gates total originally in the entire complex) to actually get into the castle. This is intentional design to drive the enemy into narrow passages and areas with dead ends.
Himeji Castle also known as White Heron Castle (Shirasagijo) due to its elegant, white appearance is situated on a high hill

There are paths that actually take you away from the tower even though you look like you’re going towards it. There are paths that correctly go to the main tower but are sloped downward to make intruders think they are going the wrong way.
Getting a bit photo happy as we approach Himeji Castle once they opened the admission gates (we had to wait about 30 min before they opened and were among the first 50 in I think). They have had scaffolding on the castle making repairs and only reopened earlier in that year after 5 1/2 years The Himeji castle property, situated on a hill summit in the central part of the Harima Plain covers 107 hectares and comprises eighty-two buildings. It is centered on the Tenshu-gun, a complex made up of the donjon, keeps and connecting structures that we are walking through here

There is even a trap by another gate that can send a landslide through to block the gate. Himeji Castle was designed ready for a siege – though it was never actually besieged in its history.
The entrance to Himeji Castle constitutes a veritable spiral maze of walls, gates and baileys, constantly under-fire attackers would need to penetrate and the design is intentional to drive the enemy into narrow passages and areas with dead ends. There are paths that actually take you away from the tower even though you look like you're going towards it, there are paths that correctly go to the main tower but are sloped downward to make intruders think they are going the wrong way The Himeji castle complex originally contained 84 gates, 15 of which were named according to the Japanese syllabary (I, Ro, Ha, Ni, Ho, He, To, etc.) At present, 21 gates from the castle complex remain intact, 13 of which are named according to the Japanese syllabary.

Finally, we arrive at the actual castle building. Very early on after entering the inside castle building, we were given plastic bags to carry our shoes and we are all wearing slippers they gave us as we start to ascend the levels of the castle, which you may catch in some of the photos I have. Externally, the Himeji Castle keep appears to have five floors because the second and third floors from the top appear to be a single floor. But, the tower actually has six floors and a basement. The castle’s granite base, combined with a highly flexible wooden structure, is designed to help Himeji Castle sway during earthquakes.
Finally about to enter the actual castle building now! The walking we have been doing is intentional in the design The entrance to Himeji Castle constitutes a veritable spiral maze of walls, gates and baileys, constantly under-fire attackers would need to penetrate and the design is intentional to drive the enemy into narrow passages and areas with dead ends

There are lots of windows as we go up each floor: this gives us a view of the city, the keep area… in the second photo you can see that big boulevard you see on the right is the street we walked on from the Himeji train station. You can see why building Himeji, which started as a fort, on top of Himeyana hill originally in 1333 was such a smart idea with this strong vantage point.
View from Himeji Castle in Japan of the rest of the keep Besides the detail look at the mythical tiger-headed fish called kinshachi as a talisman for fire protection, that big boulevard you see on the right is the street we walked on from the train station

From the windows you also see many of the Himeji Castle tiger-headed fish statues called kinshachi that are spiritual measure for the prevention of fires.
View from a window at Himeji Castle, Japan. The fish statues you see are spiritual measure for the prevention of fires and these mythical tiger-headed fish are called kinshachi View from a window at Himeji Castle, Japan. The fish statues you see are spiritual measure for the prevention of fires and these mythical tiger-headed fish are called kinshachi View from a window at Himeji Castle, Japan. The fish statues you see are spiritual measure for the prevention of fires and these mythical tiger-headed fish are called kinshachi

The weapon racks inside were empty, but you definitely notice how many there are. At one point, the castle contained as many as 280 guns and 90 spears. In the Ikeda family period (they significantly rebuilt Himeji Castle from 1601-1609 and started the castle complex that stands today) there were about 500 samurai warriors in residence here.

Honda Tadamasa and his son Tadatoki and daughter-in-law, Princess Sen, inherited the castle from the Ikedas. They had more than 1,200 vassals in addition to 4,000 foot solders and servants as they expanded the castle keep into a castle complex in 1617-1618, including a special tower for Princess Sen. Himeji Castle has then mostly been intact since then for the next over 400 years! In the Sakakibara family period there were 3,000 people at Himeji. When Sakai was the last lord of the castle just before the Meiji Restoration there about 2,200 people.
Himeji Castle, Japan - where you hang your weapons, at one point, the castle contained as many as 280 guns and 90 spears. In the Ikeda family period there were about 500 samurai warriors. Honda Tadamasa and his son Tadatoki had more than 1,200 vassals in addition to 4,000 foot solders and servants. In the Sakakibara family period there were 3,000 people. When Sakai was the last lord of the castle just before the Meiji Restoration there about 2,200 people. Himeji Castle, Japan - where you hang your weapons, at one point, the castle contained as many as 280 guns and 90 spears. In the Ikeda family period there were about 500 samurai warriors. Honda Tadamasa and his son Tadatoki had more than 1,200 vassals in addition to 4,000 foot solders and servants. In the Sakakibara family period there were 3,000 people. When Sakai was the last lord of the castle just before the Meiji Restoration there about 2,200 people.

All the stairs were like this at Himeji Castle – steep, and you have to watch your head when clearing the floor. There is no alternative to the stairs, so you must be physically fit enough to go through this to visit the inside of Himeji Castle.
All the stairs were like this at Himeji Castle - steep, and you have to watch your head when clearing the floor. There is no alternative to the stairs, so you must be physically fit enough to go through this to visit the inside of Himeji Castle. All the stairs were like this at Himeji Castle - steep, and you have to watch your head when clearing the floor. There is no alternative to the stairs, so you must be physically fit enough to go through this to visit the inside of Himeji Castle.

Here’s another look at a stair to another floor. The wooden framework of Himeji castle is made from huge pillars including a nearly 800-year-old cypress beam. Even though I’m not an engineer or architect, I am nothing but impressed with the design and construction that it took at the time to make Himeji Castle what it is today.
The wooden framework of Himeji castle is made from huge pillars including a nearly 800-year-old cypress beam, which is thought to bestow good luck on touching it.

Both the third and fourth floors of Himeji Castle have platforms situated at the north and south windows called “stone-throwing platforms” where defenders could observe or throw objects at attackers. They also have small enclosed rooms called “warrior hiding places” where defenders could hide themselves and kill attackers by surprise as they entered the keep. Windows are also placed higher to provide ventilation for gun powder.
Both the third and fourth floors of Himeji Castle have platforms situated at the north and south windows called stone-throwing platforms where defenders could observe or throw objects at attackers. They also have small enclosed rooms called warrior hiding places where defenders could hide themselves and kill attackers by surprise as they entered the keep. Windows are also higher to provide ventilation for gun powder. Both the third and fourth floors of Himeji Castle have platforms situated at the north and south windows called stone-throwing platforms where defenders could observe or throw objects at attackers. They also have small enclosed rooms called warrior hiding places where defenders could hide themselves and kill attackers by surprise as they entered the keep. Windows are also higher to provide ventilation for gun powder.

Once the path takes you up and then down through the main castle, you have a chance to admire the outside again. On the buildings, surrounding walls and roofs, look at the tiles at the end of the curved gables. If you pay attention you can observe that different types of family crests can be found. This is because many lords claimed Himeji Castle as their home and they each used their own crests. For example, you might see the butterfly crest of the Ikeda family, the paulownina crest of the Hashiba family, the hollyhock crest of the Honda family, and a cross-shaped crest for a Christian lord that once ruled Himeji Castle.
On the buildings, surrounding walls and roofs, look at the edge of the tiles. If you pay attention you can observe that different types of family crests can be found. This is because many lords claimed Himeji Castle as their home and they each used their own crests. For example, the butterfly crest of the Ikeda family, the paulownina crest of the Hashiba family, the hollyhock crest of the Honda family, and a cross-shaped crest for a Christian lord that once ruled Himeji Castle. On the buildings, surrounding walls and roofs, look at the edge of the tiles. If you pay attention you can observe that different types of family crests can be found. This is because many lords claimed Himeji Castle as their home and they each used their own crests. For example, the butterfly crest of the Ikeda family, the paulownina crest of the Hashiba family, the hollyhock crest of the Honda family, and a cross-shaped crest for a Christian lord that once ruled Himeji Castle.

You can observe open window like holes in the walls in the shape of circles, triangles, and rectangles located throughout Himeji Castle. The shapes are intended to allow defenders armed with tanegashima or archers to fire on attackers without exposing themselves. They have different heights in places based on whether you are in standing position, kneeling position, or prone position.
Himeji Castle also known as White Heron Castle (Shirasagijo) due to its elegant, white appearance. Below you can see windows for an archer or defender using a Matchlock Himeji Castle, Japan. You can observe loopholes in the shape of circles, triangles, and rectangles are located throughout Himeji Castle, intended to allow defenders armed with tanegashima or archers to fire on attackers without exposing themselves. They have different heights in places based on whether you are in standing position, kneeling position, or prone position.

And what’s an old castle without a ghost story or two right? There are two for Himeji Castle that I read. The first is for Okiku’s Well. The story is that Okiku was falsely accused of losing dishes that were valuable family treasures, and then killed and thrown into the well. Her ghost remained to haunt the well at night, counting dishes in a despondent tone.
Himeji Castle, Japan. This is December so there isn't much color, but the park has hundreds of cherry trees and great fall colors in spring and fall. The extensive castle park also has plum, peach, azalea and wisteria growing in the grounds

The other is Genbei Sakurai, who was Ikeda Terumasa’s master carpenter in the construction of the keep, and who felt responsible for the mistaken measurement that causes the tower to lean in the southwest direction so he committed suicide by jumping off a donjon. The real reason for the castle leaning to the southwest is because of sunken cliffs in the east and west. Who knows if either of these folktales are true.
Himeji Castle in Japan Himeji Castle in Japan

On a previous post I shared street treats, which included photos and a video of Ningyo Yaki (a cake filled with sweet red bean paste) here they are available in the shape of Himeji Castle… Those stores are located right across the street from Himeji Castle park on the way back to Himeji Station. Because of the time of year that we visited, we did not visit the Kokoen Garden nearby (offering 9 gardens, and also an opportunity to experience traditional tea service – you can purchase a combined ticket with Himeji Castle admission if you so choose), so we spent about half a day here at Himeji, leaving after lunch and actually then heading to Kinkakuji Golden Pavilion in Kyoto which I covered a couple posts ago.
Himeji Castle Ningyo Yaki -Ningyo Yaki is a cake filled with sweet red bean paste. You will often see it in the shape of various buildings or animals.

While waiting for our train time to go to the plastform at Himeji Station, we followed our noses to find this, a treat called Gozasoro. They put a pancake like batter on one side add the bean paste filling (either the ‘shiro-an’ white bean paste or ‘aka-an’ red bean paste fillings), then put batter on the other side, just before the batter hardens, they put the two sides together to make a round cake and flip several times while cooking until golden brown. I highly recommend you try it!
We saw this at the Himeji train station while waiting for the train - this is a treat called Gozasoro. They put a pancake like batter on one side add the bean paste filling (either the ‘shiro-an’ 白あん white bean paste or ‘aka-an’ 赤あん red bean paste fillings), then put batter on the other side, just before the batter hardens, they put the two sides together to make a round cake and flip several times while cooking until golden brown. We saw this at the Himeji train station while waiting for the train - this is a treat called Gozasoro. They put a pancake like batter on one side add the bean paste filling (either the ‘shiro-an’ 白あん white bean paste or ‘aka-an’ 赤あん red bean paste fillings), then put batter on the other side, just before the batter hardens, they put the two sides together to make a round cake and flip several times while cooking until golden brown.

Helpful articles on visiting Himeji:

Clearly you can tell I had a huge interest for visiting Himeji Castle as I had already done so much previous research (which I then summarized in a word document to print out so it’s thin) before even arriving at the castle so I would be able to enjoy it with history and knowledge already in hand when I finally made my dream come true.

I do have other castles on my bucket list – a mossy Irish castle, a medieval French castle on an island (Mont Saint-Michel), an elegant German castle that was the inspiration for Disney (Neuschwanstein Castle, though seriously Germany has so many lovely castles).

Have you ever done a lot of research on history or features of a specific attraction before visiting? What was it for? Do you have a dream castle you’d like to see?

Here’s a summary of my Japan Travel post series:

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Japan Travel: Famous Signs of Osaka

April 26, 2016 by 7 Comments

When I think of Osaka, the first thing I think of is how it’s known as a food city. The other thing I think of is all the big giant food signs of Osaka and bright lights by the canal. So those were my targets when we traveled from Kyoto to Osaka: to eat a few specialty foods and see the famous signs of Osaka.

We only spent one day in Osaka because I had a feeling that F wouldn’t like it. And, I was right. Osaka is a bit more aggressive than Tokyo, and things he liked about Japan – how patient people would be, no one crossed the street except at intersections, everyone formed orderly lines while waiting for trains, everything is clean – is not so in Osaka. If anything, you could say Osaka feels a bit more Western in that regard, more casual than normal Japanese formality, maybe even a bit grittier. It’s the equivalent of Manhattan (Tokyo) vs the Bronx (Osaka) I think in the feel of the cities.

Amerikamura

This neighborhood of Amerikamura is maybe a 10 minute walk from Namba, which is where our AirBnB was located. I think Namba is the most happening area to stay if you visit Osaka. Everything in this post is on walking distance of Namba.

We stored our luggage until check-in at one of the many luggage lockers in the Namba train station – though it took us probably an hour to find a large luggage locker that could fit our 2 carry on bags and 2 backpacks. Just as we were going to give up and take the train to Kyoto Station (where I know they have a luggage room with an attendant), we ran into a group of Japanese late teens/early 20s who were removing their luggage. Huge sigh of relief. If you plan to store luggage you can find a map online as there are multiple luggage locker areas in the station.

Walking into Amerikamura, we were then fully surrounded by many people in their late teens and early 20s. This area is full of trendy stores, especially of clothing, that reflect a love for American influence and American street fashion generally leaning towards sporty (Nike and Adidas like), hip hop (hoodies, printed graphic T-shirts, caps) or punk (black with metallic details or crazy prints or bright colors). It honestly did remind me of the East Village of New York the way the stores were narrow and packed with merchandise. At one point we even spotted Amerikamura’s own version of the Statue of Liberty overseeing this trendy youthful neighborhood (atop New American Plaza, established 1984!).
Amerikamura's own version of the Statue of Liberty looks down upon this American influenced trendy neighborhood of Osaka

This is definitely an area where you can find lots of funny uses of English, be it store names or on clothing. This one particular store, Baked Magic, cracked me up every time we walked by – they really did sell an interesting variety of pastry puffs of some sort but seemed to have overly complicated origins where it baked, but also is a result of wizard magic but also grows off a giant vine/beanstalk?
Punk teens co exist with hip hop style or sporty - think Nike and Adidas like - in Amerikamura, a trendy neighborhood in Osaka. This was taken at Sankaku Koen, a famous intersection. this one store, Baked Magic, cracked me up every time we walked by - they really did only sell a pastry puff of some sort but seemed to have overly complicated origins where it is a result of wizard magic but also grows off a giant vine/beanstalk

The main goal in Amerikamura was a famous intersection called Sankaku Koen, also known as Triangle Park because of the way the streets cross forms a triangular area in the middle where people hang out. Also, I had read from Matcha Japan Travel magazine that this street also has multiple takoyaki stands that flank the triangle park all within a couple blocks, all facing the park. Takoyaki are octopus dumplings, a street food representative of Osaka.
Sights of Osaka - Amerikamura and one of the takoyaki stands I considered, one of the famous 3 stands right around Mitsu Park, a little park by an intersection that is like a triangle so it's also nicknamed Sankaku Koen for Triangle Park. This is Kogaryu’s(甲賀流) that is known for its mayo sauce Sights of Osaka - Amerikamura, here you see the other two takoyaki stands on the same street by Mitsu Park, a little park by an intersection that is like a triangle so it's also nicknamed Sankaku Koen for Triangle Park Sights of Osaka - Amerikamura and Takoyaki Stand Shiranngana! (知らんがな!) that I considered is known more for its jokes (for instance, instead of yen it lists prices as ten thousand yen increments but really it's still regular yen- it just means you hear someone say it's 4 million yen but really it's 400). It's specialty is apparently salt flavored takoyaki Sights of Osaka - Amerikamura and Takoyaki Stand Ganso Donaiya that I considered... and then I saw the balls on top rotated. And the lady taking orders is wearing a hat. And there are photos from articles and a Tripadvisor sticker on it. I also liked that this one they spotlight the cooking right in the front and side so you can watch your takoyaki being made fresh in front of you.

I went for the takoyaki stand Ganso Donaiya with the famous rotating takoyaki sign almost like a slow-mo slot machine, but with the takoyaki balls instead.
I went for the takoyaki stand Ganso Donaiya with the famous rotating takoyaki sign almost like a slow-mo slot machine, but with the takoyaki balls instead. I went for the takoyaki stand Ganso Donaiya with the famous rotating takoyaki sign almost like a slow-mo slot machine, but with the takoyaki balls instead.

And the lady taking orders is wearing a hat. And there are photos from articles and a Tripadvisor sticker on it. And there’s a line and I see them making the food fresh (those two are key in eating foreign street food). Must be good right?
I went for the takoyaki stand Ganso Donaiya with the famous rotating takoyaki sign. And the lady taking orders is wearing a hat. And there are photos from articles and a Tripadvisor sticker on it. Must be good! I went for the takoyaki stand Ganso-Donaiya with the famous rotating takoyaki sign. And the lady taking orders is wearing a hat. And there are photos from articles and a Tripadvisor sticker on it. Must be good!

I also liked that this one they spotlight the cooking right in the front and side so you can watch your takoyaki being made fresh in front of you. The line also reinforced that it would be fresh, and must be tasty right? First you pour in a batter into special takoyaki pans, and then add the seasoning and the little bits of octopus.
Sights of Osaka - Amerikamura - while waiting in line for takoyaki you can watch them being made fresh. Here as the ones on the right finish cooking, he pours batter to start a new batch in the other takoyaki pan Sights of Osaka - Amerikamura - while waiting in line for takoyaki you can watch them being made fresh. First you pour in a batter into special takoyaki pans, and then add the seasoning and the little bits of octopus.

Then you turn them over to cook the other side, and when the balls are fully formed, expertly place them 2 at a time into containers before adding the sauces and whatever are the famous toppings of that takoyaki stand.
Sights of Osaka - Amerikamura - while waiting in line for takoyaki you can watch them being made fresh. First you pour in a batter into special takoyaki pans, and then add the seasoning and the little bits of octopus. Then you turn them over to cook the other side, and when the balls are fully formed, expertly place them 2 at a time into containers before adding the sauces and whatever are the famous toppings of that takoyaki stand Sights of Osaka - Amerikamura - while waiting in line for takoyaki you can watch them being made fresh. First you pour in a batter into special takoyaki pans, and then add the seasoning and the little bits of octopus. Then you turn them over to cook the other side, and when the balls are fully formed, expertly place them 2 at a time into containers before adding the sauces and whatever are the famous toppings of that takoyaki stand

I selected one with the takoyaki sauce, mayo, egg and green onion.
Takoyaki from takoyaki stand Ganso Donaiya in Amerikamura by Sankaku Koen with takoyaki sauce, mayo, egg and green onion Takoyaki from takoyaki stand Ganso Donaiya in Amerikamura by Sankaku Koen with takoyaki sauce, mayo, egg and green onion

Dotonbori

The most famous area of Osaka is beyond a question Dotonbori. This is both the name of a street and a canal, and is known for being a huge food destination full of gigantic signs, including mechanized signs.
Sights of Osaka - one street down from the Ebisu-bashi bridge, which is the closest crossing to the Glico man and Asahi beer sign and is always packed, day or night. Sights of Osaka - one street down from the Ebisu-bashi bridge, which is the closest crossing to the Glico Running man and Asahi beer sign and is always packed, day or night.

At night, Dotonbori is glittering with bright lights. Here you see the famous giant neon Glico Running Man, and along the street there is a smaller version with the time that you can pose with.
'Sights Sights of Osaka - giant neon Glico Running Man Sights of Osaka - giant neon Glico Running Man Sights of Osaka - giant neon Glico Running Man

If you’re wondering why a running man is the symbol of a Glico candy company, it’s because he is running a 300 meter race, and it so happens that a 300 meter run burns the same amount of calories as eating one piece of Glico caramel.
If you're running why a running man is the symbol of a Glico candy company, it's because he is running a 300 meter race, and it so happens that a 300 meter run burns the same amount of calories as eating one piece of Glico caramel. If you're running why a running man is the symbol of a Glico candy company, it's because he is running a 300 meter race, and it so happens that a 300 meter run burns the same amount of calories as eating one piece of Glico caramel.

You’ve probably seen the famous Kani Doraku crab sign with its mechanized legs slowly moving since the 60s, beckoning patrons to eat at this crab restaurant chain (there are a few other branches, but this is the original flagship restaurant with the iconic moving crab) right before the Dotonbori Bridge.
Sights of Osaka - the view down Dotonbori, including to the left the crab restaurant Kani Doraku that erected their giant mechanized crab sign back in 1960 and kicked off a craze of giant animated seafood signs Sights of Osaka - the view down Dotonbori, including to the the crab restaurant Kani Doraku that erected their giant mechanized crab sign back in 1960 and kicked off a craze of giant animated seafood signs

For instance, here’s another branch with the crab above its sign, though this one didn’t move. Next to it is another famous icon, Kushikatsu Daruma a kushikatsu restaurant (deep fried skewer restaurant) whose mascot is an angry looking Asian chef.
Sights of Osaka - Left, Kushikatsu Daruma a kushikatsu restaurant (deep fried skewer restaurant) whose mascot is an angry looking Asian chef with a fu manchu. And, to the right another location of crab restaurant Kani Doraku that erected their giant mechanized crab sign back in 1960 and kicked off a craze of giant animated seafood signs 'Sights

Kushikatsu is also known kushiage. It is battered meat and veggies which are deep fried skewered that you then you dip into a Worchester-like tonkatsu sauce. The sauce is in a communal container for every 2 people or so, and you better NOT double-dip. You can order your skewer one at a time, or purchase a set that has an assortment like the one I had.

When I ate at Kushikatsu Daruma, I selected the Shinsekai set menu that includes a side I could choose as well as skewers of classic kushikatsu (beef), all natural shrimp, quail egg, asparagus, rice cake, pork cutlet, pumpkin, cheese, and tomato. I picked Takowasa as the side included for the set I ordered, which is cold octopus with rice vinegar, sugar, and wasabi. Having as a side the chilled raw octopus (almost like a ceviche) with bit of acid and bite of spiciness was I thought a good counter for the deep fried fattiness of the skewers. You will also get a side of cabbage leaves to go with your skewers. There will be a container to use for disposal of your skewers each time – just watch the others along the counter with you.
Kushikatsu, is essentially deep fried food on a stick—or more specifically, battered meat and veggies which are deep fried skewered that you then you dip into a Worchester-like tonkatsu sauce. I ate at an outpost of the famous chain Daruma. Look at all the example kushikatsu on the boards! Kushikatsu lunch for me at Kushikutsu Daruma - I picked the Takowasa, which is cold octopus with rice vinegar, sugar, and wasabi as the included side for the set. Having as a side the chilled raw octopus (almost like a ceviche) with bit of acid and bite of spiciness was I thought a good counter for the deep fried fattiness of the skewers. This is part of the Shinsekai set menu that includes classic kushikatsu (beef), all natural shrimp, quail egg, asparagus, rice cake, pork cutlet, pumpkin, cheese, and tomato. The glass is NOT water - it's Kushikutsu Daruma barley shochu Kushikatsu lunch for me at Daruma - I picked the Takowasa, which is cold octopus with rice vinegar, sugar, and wasabi Having as a side the chilled raw octopus (almost like a ceviche) with bit of acid and bite of spiciness was I thought a good counter for the deep fried fattiness of the skewers Kushikatsu lunch for me at Daruma - I picked the Takowasa, which is cold octopus with rice vinegar, sugar, and wasabi Having as a side the chilled raw octopus (almost like a ceviche) with bit of acid and bite of spiciness was I thought a good counter for the deep fried fattiness of the skewers. This is part of the Shinsekai set menu that includes classic kushikatsu (beef), all natural shrimp, quail egg, asparagus, rice cake, pork cutlet, pumpkin, cheese, and tomato. Since they bring you the skewers while they are freshly fried, I got some on one tray, and then a second tray appeared with the rest.

As you walk up and down the street, you will encounter many other giant foods, which I visited both during the day and night.
Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori - here potstickers/gyoza Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori - here potstickers/gyoza Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori include an octopus cooking itself into takoyaki? Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori include an octopus cooking itself into takoyaki? Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori, including a giant sushi in a Big Hand that symbolizes Genroku Zushi and Zuboraya's fugu blowfish Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori, including a giant sushi in a Big Hand that symbolizes Genroku Zushi and Zuboraya's fugu blowfish Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori

Here, a huge blowfish lantern adorns Zuboraya, a fugu (deadly poison blowfish) restaurant.
Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori. Here, a huge blowfish lantern adorns Zubora-ya, a fugu (deadly poison blowfish) restaurant Sights of Osaka - the giant food signs of Dotonbori. Here, a huge blowfish lantern adorns Zubora-ya, a fugu (deadly poison blowfish) restaurant

Then there’s this Kuidaore Taro, the famous drumming clown. Kuidaore Taro a life sized mechanized doll of a young teen in a clown costume playing a drum and symbol that originated around 1950. You can see there is a sign that is pretty large with him in the first photo on the left… and then I found a shop dedicated to him that included the drumming statue and a whole bunch of stuff with his likeness.
Sights of Osaka - including to the left in this photo Kuidaore Taro, the famous drumming clown. Sights of Osaka - Kuidaore Taro, the famous drumming clown. Sights of Osaka - Kuidaore Taro, the famous drumming clown.

You are likely to see Kinryuu Ramen, which has a large dragon eating a bowl of ramen. It is a somewhat large chain of ramen shops, so you’ll see this a couple times. Kinryuu is a combination of the words “gold” and “dragon”, so it can easily be translated to be “Golden Dragon”.
Kinryuu Ramen, which has a large dragon eating a bowl of ramen as its mascot. Kinryuu Ramen, which has a large dragon eating a bowl of ramen as its mascot.

You will probably also run into Billikin, the god of ‘things as they ought to be’. Rubbing his feet brings luck, and oddly he is a charm character imported from St Louis but adopted into Japanese culture – he is still Saint Louis University’s mascot.
Billiken is the defining symbol of the area around Tsutenkaku but can be found in various places in Osaka and is the god of 'things as they ought to be'. Rubbing his feet brings luck, and oddly he is a charm character imported from St Louis but adopted into Japanese culture Billiken is the defining symbol of the area around Tsutenkaku but can be found in various places in Osaka and is the god of 'things as they ought to be'. Rubbing his feet brings luck, and oddly he is a charm character imported from St Louis but adopted into Japanese culture

There are lots of stands of takoyaki and other grilled meats throughout the streets – something F complained about because the aromas of the grills also added to our attire so much that F insisted we do laundry once we got back to the AirBnB.
Takoyaki and grilled meats at one of the stands in Dotonbori filling the air with their aromas

Although, to be fair, we also ate okonomiyaki at Ajinoya for dinner. Okonomiyaki is a kind of griddled Japanese pancake that includes batter, shredded cabbage, and other ingredients and toppings which vary but generally include okonomiyaki sauce, mayo, bonito flakes, and seaweed flakes. You usually have it prepared either by the chef or you make it yourself at the table. At Ajinoya it is made by the chef and if you sit at a booth they then bring it to your own grill.
our dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya - you usually have it prepared either by the chef or you make it yourself at the table. At Ajinoya it is made by the chef and if you sit at a booth they then bring it to your own grill where you can top it as you wish our dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya - you usually have it prepared either by the chef or you make it yourself at the table. At Ajinoya it is made by the chef and if you sit at a booth they then bring it to your own grill where you can top it as you wish

You get little spatulas at your seating to then cut the okonomiyaki into slices almost like pizza.
Our booth for two for a dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya. Our booth for two for a dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya. You get little spatulas at your seating to then cut the okonomiyaki into slices almost like pizza.

I chose Ajinoya because it had a great review on the blog Migrationology’s Osaka Food Guide: 11 Must Eat Foods (and Where To Try Them) post. Also, I had found out that they have a tomato and cheese okonomiyaki and you also top your own bonito flakes and amount of sauce at your table, so this seemed like a good choice for vegetarian F since he normally would not be able to eat okonomiyaki as it usually would include seafood,  and I could go crazy with the flakes and sauce here.
Dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya. He had the okonomiyaki with fresh tomatoes and cheese Dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya. He had the okonomiyaki with fresh tomatoes and cheese

Here’s my version – which was Hiroshima style as instead of mixing all the ingredients together it was layered with the batter being on top and bottom, and also included yakisoba noodles.
Dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya. This is the Hiroshima styled okonomiyaki which you can then top with as much additional sauce and bonito flakes as you want from containers on the table Dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya. This is the Hiroshima styled okonomiyaki which you can then top with as much additional sauce and bonito flakes as you want from containers on the table Dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya. This is the Hiroshima styled okonomiyaki which you can then top with as much additional sauce and bonito flakes as you want from containers on the table Dinner of okonomiyaki in Namba, Osaka at Ajinoya. This is the Hiroshima styled okonomiyaki which you can then top with as much additional sauce and bonito flakes as you want from containers on the table

How many of the famous signs of Osaka have you heard about or seen before? Which is the one you find most interesting? Have you heard of or tried the Osaka food specialties like takoyaki, kushikatsu, or okonomiyaki before?

Here’s a summary of my Japan Travel post series:

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Japan Travel: Scenic Streets of Gion and a Sake Bar

April 19, 2016 by 6 Comments

When I travel to other countries, one of my fun activities I like to do is wander in neighborhoods, just observing the atmosphere and the differences in the buildings, the streets, in the people passing through the streets with me, peering into restaurants and stores (browsing is free, it’s the shopping that gets you!). The Gion area in Kyoto is an area famous for its historic wooden buildings and neighborhoods from the Edo period (1603–1867), so the scenic streets of Gion are a great place to walk around

Gion is also a famous entertainment districts that is full of teahouses and restaurants and bars, traditional performing arts, and is one of a few places you may see a geisha. In the morning, these old fashioned streets of Gion are quiet and are the best time to take photos that capture the wood. Then as it gets later in the day and the dining destinations get open for the evening, the lanterns get lit, and it gets very busy with people hoping to glimpse a geisha on her way to an evening appointment.

Hanamikoji Dori

What we are looking for is Hanamikoji Dori, the second the street on the right side if you are facing east walking away from the river on Shijo Dori.  It’s a street with lovely wooden machiya merchant houses:

Sign on Hanami-koji Street in Gion Walking the streets of Gion in Kyoto during the day - Hanamikoji Dori, the geisha district of on Hanamikoji Street Walking the streets of Gion in Kyoto during the day - Hanamikoji Dori, the geisha district of on Hanamikoji Street Walking the streets of Gion in Kyoto during the day - Hanamikoji Dori, the geisha district of on Hanamikoji Street Walking the streets of Gion in Kyoto during the day - Hanamikoji Dori, the geisha district of on Hanamikoji Street Walking the streets of Gion in Kyoto during the day - Hanamikoji Dori, the geisha district of on Hanamikoji Street Walking the streets of Gion in Kyoto during the day - Hanamikoji Dori, the geisha district of on Hanamikoji Street Walking the streets of Gion in Kyoto during the day - Hanamikoji Dori, the geisha district of on Hanamikoji Street

Don’t be fooled at how traditional and quiet this is because as soon as it’s evening… this was much later after the dinner hour so not as bad as when the streets were literally filled with cars and people trying to make way for each other (there aren’t any marked sidewalks) on their way to dinner. Notice all the lit red lanterns.
"Gion Gion at Night - this is Kyoto's most famous geisha district. Interspersed among the restaurants are a number of ochaya (teahouses), the most exclusive and expensive of Kyoto's dining establishments, where guests are entertained by maiko and geiko: this street specifically is Hanami-koji Street Gion at Night - this is Kyoto's most famous geisha district. Interspersed among the restaurants are a number of ochaya (teahouses), the most exclusive and expensive of Kyoto's dining establishments, where guests are entertained by maiko and geiko: this street specifically is Hanami-koji Street Gion at Night - this is Kyoto's most famous geisha district. Interspersed among the restaurants are a number of ochaya (teahouses), the most exclusive and expensive of Kyoto's dining establishments, where guests are entertained by maiko and geiko: this street specifically is Hanami-koji Street Gion at Night - this is Kyoto's most famous geisha district. Interspersed among the restaurants are a number of ochaya (teahouses), the most exclusive and expensive of Kyoto's dining establishments, where guests are entertained by maiko and geiko: this street specifically is Hanami-koji Street Gion at Night - this is Kyoto's most famous geisha district. Interspersed among the restaurants are a number of ochaya (teahouses), the most exclusive and expensive of Kyoto's dining establishments, where guests are entertained by maiko and geiko: this street specifically is Hanami-koji Street Gion at Night - this is Kyoto's most famous geisha district. Interspersed among the restaurants are a number of ochaya (teahouses), the most exclusive and expensive of Kyoto's dining establishments, where guests are entertained by maiko and geiko: this street specifically is Hanami-koji Street Gion at Night - this is Kyoto's most famous geisha district. Interspersed among the restaurants are a number of ochaya (teahouses), the most exclusive and expensive of Kyoto's dining establishments, where guests are entertained by maiko and geiko: this street specifically is Hanami-koji Street

Shirakawa Area

Go back across Shijo Dori and head 3 blocks north, turning left on Shinbashi Dori. Here in the Shirakawa Area – follow the street just along the small river here – there’s a interesting juxtaposition of the old fashioned wooden machiya houses here and the modern urban street poles and wires.
More walking around towards another scenic part of Gion, the Shirakawa Area - there More walking around towards another scenic part of Gion, the Shirakawa Area - there's a interesting juxtaposition of the old fashioned preserved machiya houses here and the modern urban street poles and wires More walking around towards another scenic part of Gion, the Shirakawa Area - there's a interesting juxtaposition of the old fashioned preserved machiya houses here and the modern urban street poles and wires More walking around towards another scenic part of Gion, the Shirakawa Area - there's a interesting juxtaposition of the old fashioned preserved machiya houses here and the modern urban street poles and wires

The canal is lined by willow trees, high class restaurants and ochaya, many of which have rooms overlooking the canal. It’s interesting here because we can look into the room like it’s an exhibit as people enjoy dinners in private rooms with complete and no privacy.
Another scenic part of Gion is the Shirakawa Area which runs along the Shirakawa Canal parallel to Shijo Avenue. The canal is lined by willow trees, high class restaurants and ochaya, many of which have rooms overlooking the canal. It's interesting here because we can look into the room like it's an exhibit...

Now here’s a look when we walked by in the morning. Lonely Planet opines is “one of Kyoto’s most beautiful streets and, arguably, the most beautiful street in all of Asia, especially in the evening and during cherry-blossom season.” It’s December so we’ll just have to imagine the cherry blossoms
Walking in Gion during the day - this is is Shimbashi (sometimes called Shirakawa Minami-dōri), which Lonely Planet opines is 'one of Kyoto’s most beautiful streets and, arguably, the most beautiful street in all of Asia, especially in the evening and during cherry-blossom season.' Of course now, the cherry blossom trees are completely empty branches Walking in Gion during the day - this is is Shimbashi (sometimes called Shirakawa Minami-dōri), which Lonely Planet opines is 'one of Kyoto’s most beautiful streets and, arguably, the most beautiful street in all of Asia, especially in the evening and during cherry-blossom season.' Of course now, the cherry blossom trees are completely empty branches Walking in Gion during the day - this is is Shimbashi (sometimes called Shirakawa Minami-dōri), which Lonely Planet opines is 'one of Kyoto’s most beautiful streets and, arguably, the most beautiful street in all of Asia, especially in the evening and during cherry-blossom season.' Of course now, the cherry blossom trees are completely empty branches Walking in Gion during the day - this is is Shimbashi (sometimes called Shirakawa Minami-dōri), which Lonely Planet opines is 'one of Kyoto’s most beautiful streets and, arguably, the most beautiful street in all of Asia, especially in the evening and during cherry-blossom season.' Of course now, the cherry blossom trees are completely empty branches Walking in Gion during the day - this is is Shimbashi (sometimes called Shirakawa Minami-dōri), which Lonely Planet opines is 'one of Kyoto’s most beautiful streets and, arguably, the most beautiful street in all of Asia, especially in the evening and during cherry-blossom season.' Of course now, the cherry blossom trees are completely empty branches Walking in Gion during the day - this is is Shimbashi (sometimes called Shirakawa Minami-dōri), which Lonely Planet opines is 'one of Kyoto’s most beautiful streets and, arguably, the most beautiful street in all of Asia, especially in the evening and during cherry-blossom season.' Of course now, the cherry blossom trees are completely empty branches

Ishibei-koji Lane

My vote for most scenic street that is like a step back in time is the short walk along  Ishibei-koji Lane, located just by Kodaji Temple that I had covered previously. At only 200 meters it’s short and more like an alley than a street, but Lonely Planet also dubs this too “perhaps the most beautiful street in Kyoto” and Inside Kyoto called Kyoto’s most atmospheric pedestrian-only walkway. There is no sign for this, so prepare to orient yourself using GPS.
In the morning, these old fashioned streets in Gion, Kyoto are quiet. We are walking along Ishibei-koji Lane, what Inside Kyoto called Kyoto’s most atmospheric pedestrian-only walkway and Lonely Planet calls 'perhaps the most beautiful street in Kyoto' In the morning, these old fashioned streets in Gion, Kyoto are quiet. We are walking along Ishibei-koji Lane, what Inside Kyoto called Kyoto’s most atmospheric pedestrian-only walkway and Lonely Planet calls 'perhaps the most beautiful street in Kyoto' In the morning, these old fashioned streets in Gion, Kyoto are quiet. We are walking along Ishibei-koji Lane, what Inside Kyoto called Kyoto’s most atmospheric pedestrian-only walkway and Lonely Planet calls 'perhaps the most beautiful street in Kyoto' In the morning, these old fashioned streets in Gion, Kyoto are quiet. We are walking along Ishibei-koji Lane, what Inside Kyoto called Kyoto’s most atmospheric pedestrian-only walkway and Lonely Planet calls 'perhaps the most beautiful street in Kyoto'

These wooden machiya townhouses are rapidly disappearing from Kyoto, having had the good fortune to survive World War II (new machiya are prohibited from being built now, leaving only restoration) but now the difficult and expensive maintainace means many are being demolished in favor of modern buildings. I highly recommend when in Kyoto taking a walk in at least one of the above streets to get a feel of being a pedestrian in Kyoto a hundred or do years ago. For a more in depth experience, Iori, a company founded by a traditional culture advocate, rents multiple machiya for guests to stay.

Jam Hostel’s Sake Bar

Not far from the Shirakawa area and Gion – Shijo station is this recommended bar from the owner of Beer Komachi – Jam Hostel’s Sake Bar. This is why I love asking local industry people their recommendations: its location in a hostel meant I probably would have overlooked it. But she sent us to this location reassuring it was well worth it for us even if it also serving as a hostel was unusual. Boy was she right. The menu was probably a dozen pages long full of sake options to order individually, as well as offering flights and it could be served cold or hot. There were flights that were dedicated to being local to Kyoto as well as a few other prefectures including the owner’s home region of Niigata.

. Jam Hostel's Sake Bar has an extensive selection of sake, and you can purchase flights or get small pours of a wide variety of sake Jam Hostel's Sake Bar has an extensive selection of sake, and you can purchase flights or get small pours of a wide variety of sake Jam Hostel's Sake Bar has an extensive selection of sake, and you can purchase flights or get small pours of a wide variety of sake Jam Hostel's Sake Bar has an extensive selection of sake, and you can purchase flights or get small pours of a wide variety of sake Jam Hostel's Sake Bar has an extensive selection of sake, and you can purchase flights or get small pours of a wide variety of sake Jam Hostel's Sake Bar has an extensive selection of sake, and you can purchase flights or get small pours of a wide variety of sakeJam Hostel's Sake Bar has an extensive selection of sake, and you can purchase flights or get small pours of a wide variety of sake Jam Hostel's Sake Bar has an extensive selection of sake, and you can purchase flights or get small pours of a wide variety of sake

This was my very favorite sake of the night, and pretty much ever – Kaisyun / Shimane Kimoto and wooden barrel aged sake. The owner tried to warn us that it was very strong, but we convinced him we were up to the task. I was pretty surprised when it poured so dark and thick, almost like a balsamic vinegar – but it was so full of thick flavors that swirled and changed on the tongue that I was in love.
Jam Hostel's Sake Bar has an extensive selection of sake, and you can purchase flights or get small pours of a wide variety of sake. This was my very favorite sake of the night, and pretty much ever - Kaisyun / Shimane Kimoto and wooden barrel aged sake

I have no idea where or how to get this type of sake here in Portland. But, if you are interested in sampling sake, there is in June the annual Sake Fest that you might want to consider where you can taste sake for hours and learn!

These stops in today’s post could be done together in a circle. We actually stayed at an Air BnB close by which I picked specifically to near Gion because I wanted to be in easy walking distance to great food and drink, so it was easy to visit all these locations by night and day. It’s my usual modus operandi when picking a place to stay: map out the things I want to eat and drink and stay nearby the food!

If you are going to do a walking tour and not staying in the area, you will probably arrive via Keihan Main line at Gion – Shijo Station and you should proceed first with Hanamikoji Dori, then Ishibei Koji, then circle back to the Shirakawa Area and finish at the Sake Bar – and you could combine this once you get towards Ishibei Koji with some of the Kyoto Temples and Shrines I wrote about earlier as they are nearby.

Alternatively if you are on the east side towards Yasaka Shine, go to Ishibei Koji first, then walk west towards the river to Hanamikoji Dori and the Shirakawa area then the Sake Bar to finish at the Gion – Shijo station is just to the east side of the river.

Do you have a favorite walking neighborhood from your travels, where is it? How crazy is that sign about not harassing the geishas at the beginning of this post?

This concludes my Travel Tuesday posts about Kyoto – we only stayed in the city for 3 days. So next we’ll shift from historical to modern as we go to Osaka next week!

Here’s a summary of my Japan Travel post series:

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Japan Travel: Kyoto Famous Sights

April 12, 2016 by 7 Comments

We only spent 3 days in Kyoto, but I scheduled a lot of sights to see in that time. There was a lot more than I wished I could have seen done, and probably if I return on a leisure trip to Japan again, I would fly directly into Kyoto instead of Tokyo. If you go to Japan, do not just stay in Tokyo – I strongly urge you to include Kyoto as The Kyoto famous sights probably embody are all the traditional ideas of Japan you think of.

In previous Travel Tuesday posts I’ve already covered seeing on a one day walk the temples and shrines near the Higashimaya District, and also then those in the Arashiyama area. There are also a few other Kyoto famous sights that we visited that don’t fit well location wise in a continuous neighborhood walking tour, but I think are extremely worthy to visit and are emblems of Kyoto. Here are 2 more of the most famous of things to see in Kyoto, and are pretty famous sights for Japan in general… Which one do you prefer?

Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion)

There are two things to look out for when you visit Kinkakuji, also known as the Golden Pavilion. One of them is pretty obvious, and one is not. Do not confuse Kinkakuji with Ginkakuji – Ginkakuji is the Silver Pavilion (which is not silver at all).

The obvious: everyone comes here for the famous shiny gold of the Golden Pavilion which is one of the most famous sights of Kyoto and Japan. We go through a gate and suddenly BAM! This is the view – the famous main pavilion is covered in gold leaf and shimmers in front of yoko-chi (Mirror Pond). This pavilion and pond take up 93,000 of the 132,000 square meter temple grounds so I guess coming across it so quickly is unavoidable. The garden is designed to provide variations of views as the stones and trees have unusual shapes and change the landscape based on the angle while walking around Mirror Pond.
We go through a gate and suddenly BAM this is the view - the famous main pavilion is covered in gold leaf and shimmers in front of a pond - Kyoko-chi (Mirror Pond) at Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) in Kyoto. This pavilion and pond take up 93,000 of the 132,000 square meter temple grounds <At Kinkakuji Temple, the trees and stones have unusual shapes as the garden is designed to provide a view of different scenes while walking around this Mirror Pond.

You are not allowed to enter the Golden Pavilion itself, but you can see a bit inside the first floor where the windows are open that there are statues of Statues of the Shaka Buddha (historical Buddha) and shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu. This was the shogon’s retirement villa until his death when he willed it to become a temple.
You are not allowed to enter the Golden Pavilion itself, but you can see a bit inside the first floor where the windows are open that there are statues of Statues of the Shaka Buddha (historical Buddha) and Yoshimitsu. No, shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu this was the retirement villa until his death when he willed it to become a temple, not the Yoshimitsu fighter in Tekken or Soul Calibur. Kinkakuji was built to echo the extravagant Kitayama culture that developed in the wealthy aristocratic circles of Kyoto during Yoshimitsu's times. Each floor represents a different style of architecture. The first floor is built in the Shinden style used for palace buildings during the Heian Period, and with its natural wood pillars and white plaster walls. The second floor is built in the Bukke style used in samurai residences, and has its exterior completely covered in gold leaf. Finally, the third and uppermost floor is built in the style of a Chinese Zen Hall, is gilded inside and out. Then the building is capped with a golden phoenix.

The non-obvious: Check out the details of the buildings besides that of the Golden Pavilion – everyone was rushing to get there for their photo op and missing out on the various ways Yoshimitsu incorporated Chinese elements.
Lots of roof detail - other buildings on the grounds of Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) in Kyoto Peach on part of the roof detail - on the grounds of Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) in Kyoto

Particularly, the Guardian Lions that are all over Kinkakuji are great. There are multiple variations of them, so keep a look out for them on various rooftops and gates in their different poses that clearly embrace the cat side.
The Guardian Lions at the entrance gate roofs of Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) in Kyoto Seems like a natural position to me for a Guardian Lion - spotted on the roof of a gate on the grounds of Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) in Kyoto The Guardian Lion at the gate roofs of Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) in Kyoto have a variety of great poses that are a bit humorous The Guardian Lions on the gate roofs of Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) in Kyoto have a variety of great poses that are a bit humorous The Guardian Lion on gate roofs of Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion) in Kyoto have a variety of great poses that are a bit humorous

Also, just outside the exit there is a little tea garden where you can enjoy matcha tea and a little gold flaked tea snack. Past that just outside the temple there are other stands with gold flaked food if you are looking to eat more gold.
"We We stopped to enjoy tea and a tea snack just outside the gates of Kinkakuji. The tea snack had a gold flake on it, and you can make out the outline of 2 mountains in the back and the main hall in the bottom right

Fushimi Inari Shrine

The Fushimi Inari Shrine is one the most famous symbols of Japan. It’s a shrine dedicated to Inari, the Shinto guide of rice, and Shinto’s messengers the kitsune (fox spirits). This is the location of the thousands of Torii Gates you usually see in photos winding on trails through the woods and up a small mountain.

When you first encounter the gates be prepared for the crush of people unless you come very early or at dusk/later as everyone first walks through the single main trail.
Beginning of the thousands of Torii Gates at Fushimi Inari shrine, which shortly will turn into with two dense, parallel rows of gates called Senbon Torii (

Then, it breaks out into two parallel paths, one going up and one going down, thick with smaller gates.
Beginning of the thousands of Torii Gates at Fushimi Inari shrine, which shortly will turn into with two dense, parallel rows of gates called Senbon Torii (thousands of torii gates)

As you go farther and farther up, the crowds will start to thin out so you can start to enjoy the details.
Fushimi Inari Shrine, the famous path of red Torii Gates. The torii gates along the entire trail are donations by individuals and companies, and you will find the donator's name and the date of the donation inscribed on the back of each gate. Fushimi Inari Shrine, the famous path of red Torii Gates. The torii gates along the entire trail are donations by individuals and companies, and you will find the donator's name and the date of the donation inscribed on the back of each gate.

The torii gates along the entire trail are donations by individuals and companies, and you will find the donator’s name and the date of the donation inscribed on the back of each gate. Supposedly the cost starts around 400,000 yen for a small sized gate and increases to over one million yen for a large gate.
Fushimi Inari Shrine, the famous path of red Torii Gates. The torii gates along the entire trail are donations by individuals and companies, and you will find the donator's name and the date of the donation inscribed on the back of each gate. Fushimi Inari Shrine, the famous path of red Torii Gates. The torii gates along the entire trail are donations by individuals and companies, and you will find the donator's name and the date of the donation inscribed on the back of each gate.

You can go all the way up Mount Inari, or turn around at any time. The trail span 4 kilometers and takes approximately 2 hours to walk up to the top. The view at the top is not too spectacular, so we only went partway before turning around so that we could visit another area (in this case we did a half day in Arashiyama immediately after this with lunch at Tenryuji Temple). Alternatively, Tofukuji Temple is not too far away from Fushimi Inari. Both Tenryuji and Tofukuji are temples for the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism, so I didn’t feel bad skipping out on Tofukuji to to go Tenryuji instead since it offered the extra of the Buddhist Vegetarian Lunch.
Fushimi Inari Shrine, the famous path of red Torii Gates. The torii gates along the entire trail are donations by individuals and companies, and you will find the donator's name and the date of the donation inscribed on the back of each gate. Fushimi Inari Shrine, the famous path of red Torii Gates. The torii gates along the entire trail are donations by individuals and companies, and you will find the donator's name and the date of the donation inscribed on the back of each gate. Fushimi Inari Shrine, the famous path of red Torii Gates. The torii gates along the entire trail are donations by individuals and companies, and you will find the donator's name and the date of the donation inscribed on the back of each gate. Fushimi Inari Shrine, the famous path of red Torii Gates. The torii gates along the entire trail are donations by individuals and companies, and you will find the donator's name and the date of the donation inscribed on the back of each gate.

Partway up towards Mount Inari you will find some of the kitsune shrines which I recommend stopping to admire, some of the smaller shrines will have stacks of miniature torii gates donated by visitors with smaller budgets.
Along the way of the Torii Gate covered path at Fushimi Inari, there are multiple smaller shrines with stacks of miniature torii gates that were donated by visitors with smaller budgets. Along the way of the Torii Gate covered path at Fushimi Inari, there are multiple smaller shrines with stacks of miniature torii gates that were donated by visitors with smaller budgets.

In the shops outside the shrine we found lots of fox souvenirs, as well as oddly, a lot of grilled quail and one stand focused on unagi (eel). At a restaurant by Fushimi Inari Shrine we felt compelled to get some Inari Sushi which features pieces of aburaage (fried tofu), said to be a favorite food of foxes. Inarizushi is a simple and inexpensive type of sushi, in which sushi rice is filled into aburaage bags.
Food around the outside of Fushimi Inari Shrine - Grilled Quail on skewers Food around the outside of Fushimi Inari Shrine - Eel (Unagi) Lots of fox items to purchase at Fushimi Inari Shrine at the shops just outside at a restaurant by Fushimi Inari Shrine we felt compelled to get some Inari Sushi which features pieces of aburaage (fried tofu), said to be a favorite food of foxes. Inarizushi is a simple and inexpensive type of sushi, in which sushi rice is filled into aburaage bags

Fushimi Inari Shrine is open 24 hours, and is much more quiet and atmospheric when combined with dawn or dusk and just lit by its lanterns.

Have you seen or heard of Kinkajuji Temple and Fushimi Inari Shrine before? Which would you visit?

In my next (and last) post on Kyoto I want to show you the streets of Gion (including what Lonely Planet calls the most beautiful street in Japan), and recommend a sake bar. Then, my Travel Tuesday posts will take us off to Osaka!

Here’s a summary of my Japan Travel post series:

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Filed Under: Food and Drink, Travel Tagged With: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
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