Japan Travel: Onsen by Mount Fuji

February 23, 2016 by 5 Comments

In my last Japan Travel post, I highlighted our visit to see the Jigokudani Snow Monkeys famous for keeping warm and bathing in natural hot springs in part of the Japanese Alps. A few days after that day trip from Tokyo to the monkey hot springs, F and I headed to human hot springs in the mountains. Here’s a look at how I researched an onsen for us and where we stayed – Wakakusa no Yado Maruei by Mount Fuji.

In the early morning Wakakusa no Yado Maruei will swap the men and ladies' indoor and outdoor onsens. So, there are 4 and you can experience 2 the first night and you can experience the other 2 (1 outdoor, 1 indoor) in the morning since they are always gender segregated. This is the indoor one downstairs, which was the better indoor one since the other one was just like a swimming pool. This indoor one had 2 - a special vitamin mineral bath in one room, and in the other one it was all rocks and had a waterfall!
In the early morning Wakakusa no Yado Maruei will swap the men and ladies’ indoor and outdoor onsen designations from the evening.  So, there are a total of 4 onsen and you can experience 2 the first night and you can experience the other 2 (1 outdoor, 1 indoor) in the morning since they are always gender segregated.

Finding an Onsen Experience Right for You

First, a few definitions and traditions that you need to know as you are searching for an onsen to visit:

  • Ofuro: a deep soaking tub and you usually do not change the water between people who use it (you usually use it one after another in the evening) because it takes so much water to fill, plus it’s more for relaxation than cleaning yourself as you need to wash before entering. Think of it sort of like a hot tub but without the bubbles and jets. Some ofuro are for one, but others can fit two people.
    Ofuro in our room at Wakakusa no Yado Maruei
    Ofuro in our room at Wakakusa no Yado Maruei
  • Sento: a public bathhouse with many ofuro, the water used may be heated tap water or hot spring water
  • Onsen: a term meaning hot springs in Japan, aka the water is naturally heated from within the earth. Keep in mind that just because an onsen has the hot water doesn’t necessarily mean the bathtub itself is a natural hole in the ground, it includes man-made facilities that pump hot spring water into them.
  • Rotenburo: a term meaning an outdoor hot spring bath, the tub may be natural (like a waterfall) or man-made with a view to natural surroundings and open to fresh air.
    Example of the upstairs rotenburo at Wakakusa no Yado Maruei. When we checked in this was the rotenburo marked for women. Then by morning it had switched over so I was able to visit the other rotenburo which was smaller but had a direct view of Mount Fuji instead of of Lake Kawaguchiko like here. Photo from Wakakusa no Yado Maruei
    Example of the upstairs rotenburo at Wakakusa no Yado Maruei. When we checked in this was the rotenburo marked for women. Then by morning it had switched over so I was able to visit the other rotenburo which was smaller but had a direct view of Mount Fuji instead of of Lake Kawaguchiko like here. Photo from Wakakusa no Yado Maruei. I have a great memory of sitting in it alone shortly after a mother and her two kids had left so I had it to myself, and looking out into the lake and seeing a crane fly low, skimming over the water. This was the first onsen I went into and after that I got over the naked requirement because it was clear no one was looking or cared.
  • Ryokan: a traditional Japanese inn. They usually have tatami floors in the room and no bed as instead the staff will set up futon mattresses in the evening for guests to sleep. There are no chairs either – instead there will be a low table where you will kneel to enjoy tea or dine if meals are brought to your room. Many times onsens are offered by ryokan so that you can stay the night after your legs feel like jelly from all the soaking and relaxation.
    At our ryokan Wakakusa no Yado Maruei, this is the main room after removing our shoes in the foyer and walking through our sliding door screen. You can see a little closet with onsen supplies (robes, a plastic bag for carrying things to the onsen rooms) on the left, and our private onsen with a view of a small rock garden and Mount Fuji to the back behind the glass, after the massage chair
    At our ryokan Wakakusa no Yado Maruei, this is the main room after removing our shoes in the foyer and walking through our sliding door screen. You can see a little closet with onsen supplies (robes, a plastic bag for carrying things to the onsen rooms) on the left, and our private onsen with a view of a small rock garden and Mount Fuji to the back behind the glass, after the massage chair
  • Yukata: a casual kimono robe where the left side is folded over the right and then the robe is tied closed with a sash. Many ryokan will provide yukata for their guests so you can change and stay in them, wearing the provided yukata and slippers wherever you go inside the Ryokan. The robes are unisex – just make sure to tie it with left over right as the opposite way is for the dead.
    Us in our yukatas on the observation deck of Wakakusa no Yado Maruei - yes the yukatas were provided by the ryokan. I mapped it and from Wakakusa no Yado Maruei, a walk Mount Fuji is only 30 km away from here
    Us in our yukatas on the observation deck of Wakakusa no Yado Maruei – yes the yukatas were provided by the ryokan. I mapped it and from Wakakusa no Yado Maruei, a walk Mount Fuji is only 30 km away from here
  • Hot Spring Resort Town: This is an area that offer many facilities with onsen, and often you can visit multiple of these facilities as they are all part of a network for that town, traveling between each one in your yukata! Two famous resort town areas are Kurokawa Onsen (by Mount Aso, south of Fukuoka) and Kusatsu Onsen in Gunma (200 km north of Tokyo in the montains)
  • Hot Spring Theme Park: Essentially a modern take of a Hot Spring Resort Town but built as a single large business instead of a destination of many cooperating businesses.  Some parks are traditional like Ooedo Onsen Monogatari in Odaiba just outside Tokyo and Japan’s first hot spring theme park. Others are more themed and allow bathing suits and have specialty baths like Hakone Kowakien Yunessun/Mori-no-Yu that offers green tea spa, coffee spa, and wine spa (Seriously! You can see photos of these on Atlas Obscura); and meanwhile Spa World in Osaka recreates hot springs from around the world in its amusement park.

Onsen are a huge popular activity in Japan, and has been part of Japanese culture for a long time as individual homes did not use to have individual ofuro. So people went to a communal public bath to not only wash but also socialize. Ok technically, the washing happens individually at small stations with faucets and a hand held shower head and a stool for sitting along with provided soap and shampoo products, which you see to the right of the photo below. Then the socializing happens while soaking in the shared tubof some sort  (natural or man made) after cleaning yourself. This is still true today – I saw families staying here for mother / daughter and also small groups of girlfriends who came and enjoyed onsen, chatting while relaxing in the hot water.

One of the indoor onsen I visited during my stay at Wakakusa no Yado Maruei. When we checked in this indoor onsen on the first floor was for women and there was another indoor one for men. Then by morning it had switched over so I was able to visit the other indoor one previously marked for men- it was even nicer because it was styled as an indoor waterfall, and also had an additional mineral bath onsen and a sauna. Photo from Wakakusa no Yado Maruei.
One of the indoor onsen I visited during my stay at Wakakusa no Yado Maruei. When we checked in this indoor onsen on the first floor was for women and there was another indoor one for men. Then by morning it had switched over so I was able to visit the other indoor one previously marked for men- it was even nicer because it was styled as an indoor waterfall, and also had an additional mineral bath onsen and a sauna. Photo from Wakakusa no Yado Maruei.

Meanwhile, the sento that are still in business, since ofuro are more common in homes, are now upgraded by often adding minerals or infusions to their tap water, or additionally having saunas, massages, and other spa services available (one example I considered was Spa LaQua in Tokyo Dome City open 22 hours a day- there’s a great blog entry about it by GaijinPot).

It is totally possible to visit and enjoy a relaxing hot bath wherever city you are staying as there is so much volcanic activity in Japan (doh, islands formed by such activity) that there are literally thousands of establishments with access to water heated naturally by the earth.

The questions you need to ask yourself in choosing your onsen experience are

1. How long do you want to stay? It is totally possible to visit some onsen as part of a day trip where you do not spend the night, such as at the Hot Spring Theme Parks (some outside Tokyo and also Osaka), or by using day passes you purchase at some Onsen. There are some where instead of bathing, you can just soak your feet for a partial experience via foot bath called ashiyu. You can find ashiyu in a variety of places, including even in public parks, airports (example: Kagoshima) and trains like the Yamagata Line Shinkansen.

On the other hand, devoting a whole day to the onsen experience will give you the full relaxation that will help you understand why onsen are so important and popular in Japanese culture that they love even bathing at home in the ofuro to get their fix until they can go to an onsen.

2. Will you be ok being naked? Most onsen are segregated by male / female, and you must be naked – no bathing suits. If you don’t feel comfortable enough, then you may want to choose a Hot Spring Theme Park that allows bathing suits.

There are also a few that have co-ed onsen – if you are hoping to share the experience with your opposite ex partner you don’t necessarily need to seek the co-ed ones.  Instead just rent a private onsen (usually if they are available, you can rent them by the hour). And, with the private onsen rental no one sees you naked except whoever you share the private rental with.
The private onsen that we rented for an hour at Wakakusa no Yado Maruei- we didn't know it had a Mt Fuji view because we went after dinner and it was dark, official photo from the ryokan
The private onsen that we rented for an hour at Wakakusa no Yado Maruei was less than $15 an hour for use by both of us. Photo from Wakakusa no Yado Maruei.

3. Finally, where do you want to be? You might browse based on looking for one that is within a day trip away from a major city you are in like Tokyo or Osaka. You could search based on a rotenburo view you want (such as a mountain, or the ocean, or forest and rivers, or of cherry blossom trees). Another filter might be because you want to try lots of different kind of onsen you would go progressive onsen visiting in a location that has multiple onsen in the same facility,  or an onsen town.

One additional note: tattoos are still viewed as subversive in Japan. This is changing with newer generations but many Onsen ban tattoos. They may enforce this rule with no exception even though it’s clear you are not yakuza (Japanese gang members) or they may look the other way if no other patrons complain. One way to help this is to cover any visible tattoos with bandages, or inquire if the Onsen is strict with this rule.

Onsen by Mount Fuji

For us, the answers were that we wanted to stay overnight, we wanted a view of Mount Fuji, and we wanted a private ofuro or rotenburo with a view of Mount Fuji to enjoy as part of the room. I also looked for a ryokan that had multiple onsen on the property so I can experience different set ups, and a private onsen that we could rent just for the two of us.  F has an upper arm tattoo he didn’t try to cover up, so the in room Onsen and time we rented at the private Onsen were his main experiences while I visited every one on property, so the in room and private ones were important criteria.

I found all of this with Wakakusa no Yado Maruei. As my previous spreadsheet planning post could probably help you guess, I totally used a spreadsheet to check off different amenities to compare them with the name, location, url, price, and various features of course. There’s a section at the end of this post of the websites I used for research.

The location of Wakakusa no Yado Maruei is technically alongside Lake Kawaguchi, but with Fujisan only 30 km away,  it felt like we were only next door. After we arrived at the train station (Kawaguchi-ko Station), we followed instructions to go to the Information Center connected to it where the woman behind the desk called Wakakusa no Yado Maruei for us so they could get us using their shuttle. They run their shuttle so you use it to get to the train station after check out and they bring you to the ryokan for check in.

I was already super stoked even at the train station because the train you take to get here (Fujikyu Railway, not covered by JR pass) passes right by Mount Fuji: look at the view from the train window at the Fujisan stop (2 stops away), and at Kawaguchiko station when we got out! The stop in between Fujisan and Kawaguchiko is Fuji Q Highland – a roller coaster amusement park with Evangelion World, Thomas the Train land, and just a casual view of Mount Fuji. The train stop is closer to the park than even the handicapped parking spots for cars in amusement parks in the US.
View of Fujisan from Kawaguchiko Station when disembarking the Fujikyu Railway car View of Mount Fuji from the Fujisan stop while taking the Fujikyu Railway View of Mount Fuji from the Fujisan stop while taking the Fujikyu Railway

When we checked in, we were asked what time slot we wanted our dinner brought to our room, and also what time slot we wanted for breakfast in a common room. The front desk is also where you can inquire about renting the private onsen. After checking in, they brought us to seated area with windows overlooking Lake Kawaguchiko and welcomed us with green tea and a tea snack.
At our ryokan Wakakusa no Yado Maruei, after checking in at the front desk they took us to a room that seemed like an empty cafe with tables and chairs, and sat us at a table with a view of Lake Kawaguchiko to welcome us with tea and a tea snack At our ryokan Wakakusa no Yado Maruei, after checking in at the front desk they took us to a room that seemed like an empty cafe with tables and chairs, and sat us at a table with a view of Lake Kawaguchiko to welcome us with tea and a tea snack At our ryokan Wakakusa no Yado Maruei, after checking in at the front desk they took us to a room that seemed like an empty cafe with tables and chairs, and sat us at a table with a view of Lake Kawaguchiko to welcome us with tea and a tea snack

Then, we were taken to our room and given a small tour of the room including showing us how we shelve our shoes to wear slippers, how the toilet room had slippers to change into (this was also true even of the public restroom in the ryoken – there were just washroom slippers awaiting anyone who went in), and where to get the yukatas and also our little plastic drawstring bags to carry the complimentary washcloth, hair brush, scrunchee, etc. to the onsen. In the back past the massage chair there was a 3 part wash area – a tiled room with a sink area, another tiled room with the ofuro tub you could fill with hot spring water and open the window into a rock garden area and a view of Mount Fuji, and one final tiled room with a shower. Here’s a look at the tatami floored traditional Japanese room.
After opening our front door, there is a small foyer for us to remove our shoes and change into our slippers at our ryokan Wakakusa no Yado Maruei After opening our front door, there is a small foyer for us to remove our sheos and change into our slippers at our ryokan Wakakusa no Yado Maruei. On the right is a bathroom, with bathroom slippers. Looking into our main room from the sliding door at our ryokan Wakakusa no Yado Maruei At our ryokan Wakakusa no Yado Maruei, this is the private onsen with a view of a small rock garden and Mount Fuji to the back. You can see the wind blowing some of the snow off Mount Fuji back there behind the trees

After dinner, staff snuck in while we were at the private onsen and moved the table and set up our futon.
Our futon setup by staff at our ryokan Wakakusa no Yado Maruei

Going up to visit the observation deck (just one floor above the rotenburo floor) gives you a preview of what the rotenburo what the Lake Kawaguchiko view and the other rotenburo with the Mount Fuji view would be:
View from the rooftop of the lake at our ryokan Wakakusa no Yado Maruei. Later when I went into the outdoor women View from the rooftop of the lake at our ryokan Wakakusa no Yado Maruei. Later when I went into the outdoor women's onsen for the day, it was also a view of the lake from this side View from the observation deck at our ryokan Wakakusa no Yado Maruei. Mount Fuji, Fujisan! The viewfinder was free and pretty cool to look at the details of the the mountain View from the observation deck at our ryokan Wakakusa no Yado Maruei. Mount Fuji, Fujisan!

As you may have seen me mention above, there were 4 onsen available to visit at Wakakusa no Yado Maruei. They are divided by men and ladies – with each getting one indoor and one rotenburo for the evening, and then by morning they are swapped so you can visit the other two. When we checked in, the rotenburo for ladies was the Lake Kawaguchiko view and a marble indoor one, then in the morning the ones I visited for ladies was a rotenburo with the view of Mount Fuji and the indoor one featured a waterfall setting and also an additional mineral bath. Both the indoor ones also had a sauna room.
One of the rotenburo at Wakakusa no Yado Maruei - they have one with the Lake Kawaguchiko view that is larger, and then a smaller one with this seemingly insanely close to Mount Fuji view. Photo from Wakakusa no Yado Maruei
One of the rotenburo at Wakakusa no Yado Maruei – they have one with the Lake Kawaguchiko view that is larger, and then a smaller one with this seemingly insanely close to Mount Fuji view. Photo from Wakakusa no Yado Maruei

Part of the wonderful experience of the ryokan was also having our dinner in our room. In the next Travel Tuesday post I’ll show you what our traditional Japanese dinner was like, as well as our breakfast the next day.

Have you stayed at a ryokan before, or is staying at a ryokan or visiting an onsen on your bucket list? Would you ever visit an onsen town, or onsen theme park?
At the rooftop of our ryokan Wakakusa no Yado Maruei with Fujisan only 30 km away

More Resources on Onsen and Ryokan

Here’s a summary of my Japan Travel post series:

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Japan Travel – Winter Illuminations

February 2, 2016 by 13 Comments

My trip to Japan occurred during Christmas and New Year’s. For the Japanese, Christmas is not seen as a religious holiday, which makes sense since they don’t share the Christian religion, with Shinto and Buddhism dominating as the national religions instead. But, they have carried over one major thing – the idea of lots of sparkling holiday lights which they call Winter Illuminations.

In the Western world not all those that celebrate Christmas are religious either of course. Nowadays Christmas often leans more towards being a cultural holiday involving family gathering together. It’s also a consumerist holiday involving a lot of shopping and holiday sales in the name of gift giving and holiday parties.

But the Japanese don’t really celebrate Christmas in either of those ways either, with the only 2 exceptions being the pushing of Kentucky Fried Chicken as a Christmas meal, and the promotion of Christmas Cake. You can reserve your KFC meal ahead of time, and there are lines! I was somehow charmed by Colonel Sanders Santa every time I saw him though.
Kentucky Fried Chicken heavily markets its fried chicken as a Christmas meal - so much that you can pre-order family meals, and there are lines for Christmas! Colonel Sanders Santa! Kentucky Fried Chicken heavily markets its fried chicken as a Christmas meal - so much that you can pre-order family meals, and there are lines for Christmas!

For the Japanese, instead it’s New Year’s that is the time for gathering with families – many people close down their shops or leave work for extended holidays to return to their hometowns. Similarly, it’s the rationale of New Year’s for their end of year holiday parties, and big New Year’s sale with heavily discounted grab bags.

As for presents, I won’t try to touch the explanation for gift giving in Japanese culture that has a whole etiquette involved in terms of presentation, social obligation, reciprocation, and the many many reasons and occasions that call for gift giving, including coming back from a trip or as thanks (or even as a thank you for a thank you…). For Christmas, only children who believe in Santa might receive gifts – Santa doesn’t give gifts to non-believers, which apparently includes all adults.
Christmas Cake and more in Japan Christmas Cake and more in Japan
At least everyone gets to eat Christmas Cake, adults and kids

Instead, Christmas Eve and Day are regular work days. Some who might celebrate Christmas view it more as a romantic holiday where a couple goes out to celebrate on Christmas Eve. This explains why when I saw Christmas decorations, hearts sometimes showed up as a motif, and there were mostly couples not families who were out for Christmas.
Heart on Tokyo Tower as part of its Winter Fantasy ~ Orange Illumination from November 23 2015 to February 29 2016
Heart on Tokyo Tower as part of its Winter Fantasy ~ Orange Illumination from November 23 2015 to February 29 2016

The holiday lights are the most noticeable way that the Japanese celebrate Christmas. Most of the holiday lights I saw were in large public areas, often by a lot of stores, often in a park area and/or down entire streets. Though I don’t know if I can really call them Christmas lights, since some of those major light installations go up in early November. Although some of the lights might go down on December 25, others light installations might stay until even mid or end of February!

Christmas Trees are conceptual rather than any real evergreens or full of lots of ornaments.
Winter Illumination of a tree and penguin friends by Shinjuku Terrace City, a version of Christmas lights Winter Illumination of a tree with light projections by Shinjuku Terrace City, a version of Christmas lights

Overall, there are several places that offer holiday lights where I often saw a lot of couples walking and enjoying it hand in hand (and of course snapping photos). During my trip, we made it to 3 Winter Illumination displays.

Shinjuku Terrace City Illumination

Shinjuku Terrace City is sort of an outdoor shopping space that has a small park between the stores. Within this park, they light up 300 globes and 235,000 LED bulbs on the trees.
Christmas lights - though really Winter Illuminations since it goes from November through February - by Shinjuku Terrace City Christmas lights - though really Winter Illuminations since it goes from November through February - by Shinjuku Terrace City

These lights are up from mid November to mid February. So even if you are visiting not in the Christmas holiday time, you might be able to catch them!
Christmas lights - though really Winter Illuminations since it goes from November through February - by Shinjuku Terrace City Christmas lights - though really Winter Illuminations since it goes from November through February - by Shinjuku Terrace City

It also included a “Christmas Tree” which is really more like a sculpture in the shape of a tree. The Penguin tree you saw earlier in this post was from this area. Also, there was another tree at the end of the park. Interestingly enough, it was all white and more of a tree shaped sculpture. It was illuminated with a projector that offered different patterns based on people putting hands on pedestal placed a bit in front of it. Each pattern was animated and used different colors, lasting for 30 seconds or so.
One of the displays at Shinjuku Terrace City Winter Illumination included a white Christmas tree like sculpture. Placing your hands on a globe, you can invoke different projections onto the sculpture with colors and animations One of the displays at Shinjuku Terrace City Winter Illumination included a white Christmas tree like sculpture. Placing your hands on a globe, you can invoke different projections onto the sculpture with colors and animations

You can see there were apparently six different possible patterns on the sign to the left. To the right you can see a globe like pedestal with outlines of two hands that people would place their hands on to start a new projection/illumination on the tree.
One of the displays at Shinjuku Terrace City Winter Illumination included a white Christmas tree like sculpture. Placing your hands on a globe, you can invoke different projections onto the sculpture with colors and animations One of the displays at Shinjuku Terrace City Winter Illumination included a white Christmas tree like sculpture. Placing your hands on a globe, you can invoke different projections onto the sculpture with colors and animations One of the displays at Shinjuku Terrace City Winter Illumination included a white Christmas tree like sculpture. Placing your hands on a globe, you can invoke different projections onto the sculpture with colors and animations One of the displays at Shinjuku Terrace City Winter Illumination included a white Christmas tree like sculpture. Placing your hands on a globe, you can invoke different projections onto the sculpture with colors and animations

Roppongi Hills

Roppongi Hills area has a “Christmas Tree” along with lights within a shopping center, and also all down the street of Keyakizaka. There are about 1,200,000 LEDs that switch from a “Snow and Blue” theme to “Candle and Red”. These lights were up from the beginning of November until Christmas Day, so given when you see Christmas stuff show up in stores here in the US, I could justify calling these holiday lights.

I liked the extra sparkle of the tree.
Roppongi Hills Christmas Tree changes lighting color from the Snow and White theme to Candle and Red theme Roppongi Hills Christmas Tree changes lighting color from the Snow and White theme to Candle and Red theme Roppongi Hills Christmas Tree changes lighting color from the Snow and White theme to Candle and Red theme The winter illuminations at Roppongi Hills - this holiday tree changes color. This is a fashionable area (a bit like Michigan Avenue) and we noticed a lot more women making up the population then usual

In the park area, the darker shady areas with the trees around the pond and which was quieter than the shopping area with the stores made for a romantic walk as couples held hands.
They don't celebrate Christmas in Japan like the west does- it's more a romantic holiday, this park in Roppongi Hills is supposed to be very romantic to walk in with these holiday lights They don't celebrate Christmas in Japan like the west does- it's more a romantic holiday, this park in Roppongi Hills is supposed to be very romantic to walk in with these holiday lights They don't celebrate Christmas in Japan like the west does - it's more a romantic holiday, this park in Roppongi Hills is supposed to be very romantic to walk in with these holiday lights

Roppongi Hills along Keyakizaka street is a fashionable area (reminds me a bit like Michigan Avenue) and we noticed a lot more women making up the population then usual who were dressed really well. The blue and white lights along the classy street were on every single tree. We were on our way to Midtown so didn’t linger long enough to see the change to the Candle and Red theme.
Every single tree on the street is lit up in blue and white lights here in Roppongi Hills along Keyakizaka street. There are about 1,200,000 LEDs turning from a Snow and Blue theme to Candle and Red theme Every single tree on the street is lit up in blue and white lights here in Roppongi Hills along Keyakizaka street. There are about 1,200,000 LEDs turning from a Snow and Blue theme to Candle and Red theme Every single tree on the street is lit up in blue and white lights here in Roppongi Hills along Keyakizaka street. There are about 1,200,000 LEDs turning from a Snow and Blue theme to Candle and Red theme Every single tree on the street is lit up in blue and white lights here in Roppongi Hills. along Keyakizaka street. There are about 1,200,000 LEDs turning from a Snow and Blue theme to Candle and Red. And you can see the hearts here reflecting how Christmas is more a romantic holiday than the US

Midtown Christmas

Similarly, the Midtown Christmas, by the Galleria shopping center, has its display from mid November to December 25 also count as holiday lights to me. You can easily walk between Roppongi Hills to Midtown in order to see both these Winter Illuminations. The ones at Midtown include 180,003 lights and a “starry sky illumination” theme that include lights that appear to be shooting stars or falling stars, all set to music in a park in the back that they call a “Starlight Garden”.

It’s very organized even though it’s extremely popular – there is only one way to enter the park and then you walk counter clockwise, with cones and security there to maintain order. Here’s a look at the Starlight Garden from a balcony to get an idea of the size!
A look back as we walk towards the street of the size of the Midtown Christmas Lights 2015 to get a look of the size of the Starlight Garden A look back as we walk towards the street of the size of the Midtown Christmas Lights 2015 to get a look of the size of the Starlight Garden

The lights – the way they slowly turn on just the blue at the time, and then adding more, the way they move with the music slowly downward while twinkling, upward like shooting into the sky, or fast horizontally on a circular track like a shooting star… it was breathtaking.
The beautiful Midtown Christmas Lights 2015 with 180,003 lights and a starry sky illumination technology light show set to music for its Starlight Garden alt=
The beautiful Midtown Christmas Lights 2015 with 180,003 lights and a starry sky illumination technology light show set to music – in the background from this view you can see Tokyo Tower and its updated lighting that changes over time during the evening

These photos just don’t do it justice. So here’s a video we took, though that still doesn’t do justice to how it looked in person.

This is where I found a listing of the Winter Illuminations:

What do you think of how the Japanese celebrate Christmas? Is there anything you’d miss, or something you like about their view on Christmas? Have you been in a foreign country during Christmas before and how did they celebrate it that was different?

If you’re one of my Portland readers, and do you know there is a FREE Winter Light Festival for us too? Check out the family friendly Portland Winter Light Festival coming February 3-6, 2016 along the East Bank Esplanade and by OMSI.

Here’s a summary of my Japan Travel post series:

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Japan Travel: Japanese Treats at Temples and Shrines

January 26, 2016 by 5 Comments

I wanted to highlight some of the mysterious snacks and treats you may see when you are looking at food stalls nearby a temple or shrine. You won’t necessarily find all of these at a particular temple or shrine, but usually you will find some. This is not a full list- just my personal favorite Japanese Treats at Temples and Shrines.

The big motherlode is at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, an area in Tokyo, because it boasts Nakamise Dori Shopping Street that almost everyone passes through from Kaminarimon Gate to Hozomon Gate to get to the actual main hall and other buildings. Another great area to look is in Kyoto, in the Higashiyama shopping street between Yasaka Shrine or Kodaji Temple and Kiyomizudera Temple,  also called Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka.

Dango

Dango is a doughy ball served on skewers. In most cases, the dango are each chewy like mochi usually brushed with a sweet sauce. They are usually slightly smaller than the size of a ping pong ball. There are multiple dango balls on a skewer. In some cases the dango are all the same, but there are also multi-colored pink white and green ball that may appear all on a stick too. I’ve also had a black one which was made with black sesame, a Mount Takao specialty.
Black Sesame Dango, a Mount Takao specialty

In most cases the dango are also warmed slightly by a charcoal fire or grill so that parts of it are crisped up a little but on the outside on one side. It may be a modest fire like these
Getting a little crisp edge to the dango, a chewy Japanese dumpling and sweet made from mochiko (rice flour) that are served skewered at a Mount Takao stand Getting a little crisp edge to the dango, a chewy Japanese dumpling and sweet made from mochiko (rice flour) that are served skewered at a Mount Takao stand

Or in the evening a little bit more dramatic with the flames.
Dango stand near Sensoji Temple, this stand was on a side street Dango stand near Sensoji Temple, this stand was on a side street

They are usually plain when they are skewered by the fire, and then when you order a skewer, get the sauce brushed on and may get a quick extra warmed up closer to the heat for a few moments to glaze it slightly.
Brushing the sauce on dango, a chewy Japanese dumpling and sweet made from mochiko (rice flour) that are usually serve skewered at a Mount Takao stand

They are usually very chewy and have a napkin to wipe your face since the sauce may got on it!
Chewy saucy dango, a Japanese dumpling made from mochiko (rice flour) on a skewer. This was almost like a sweet bbq sauce from a Mount Takao stand Chewy saucy dango, a Japanese dumpling made from mochiko (rice flour) on a skewer. This was almost like a sweet bbq sauce from a Mount Takao stand

There is one exception to this, which I have found on Nakamise at Sensoji. You’ll recognize this famous stand by the pink and bunny theme. Even though this is an exception, I always top and get it. Here, the dango are much smaller, more the size of marbles. This is Kibi-dango, a variation of dango made with millet flour. From this same stand you can enjoy with warm sake called Amazake that is very sweet and low alcohol. Here, I caught a few photos of the ladies rolling the kibi dango in the flour. Afterwards, since the flour is still a bit loose they serve the dango in a pink envelope with the white bunny logo on it. I highly recommend with Kibi dango to have it with a beverage as the flour coating instead of a sauce makes it more dry.
Kibi-dango is a variation of dango made with millet flour, which here you can enjoy with warm sake called Amazake that is sweet and low alchohol from the same store on Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa Kibi-dango is a variation of dango made with millet flour, which here you can enjoy with warm sake called Amazake that is sweet and low alcohol from the same store on Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa Kibi-dango is a variation of dango made with millet flour, which here you can enjoy with warm sake called Amazake that is sweet and low alcohol from the same store on Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa Kibi-dango is a variation of dango made with millet flour, which here you can enjoy with warm sake called Amazake that is sweet and low alchohol from the same store on Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa

Ningyo Yaki

Ningyo Yaki is a cake filled with sweet red bean paste. You will often see it in the shape of various buildings or animals.
ningyo-yaki (red bean-filled buns moulded into various shapes using iron pans over a fire) in varoius shapes! ningyo-yaki (red bean-filled buns moulded into various shapes using iron pans over a fire) in varoius shapes!

If you are lucky, you will see it being made fresh, either with an iron mold pan by hand, or by an automated machine!

By hand with a mold pan (at Sensoji Temple) – the man will first pour in the dough, add the bean, and then pour more dough on top and then place the mold on the small flames- he was super fast! You can see all the molds he is working with on the right as they are cooking to the right.:
Making Ningyo Yaki (red bean filled busn molde dinto varoius shapes using iron pans ove ra fire) - the man will first pour in the dough, add the bean, and then pour more dough on top and then place the mold on the small flames- he was super fast! Making Ningyo Yaki (red bean filled busn molde dinto varoius shapes using iron pans ove ra fire) - the man will first pour in the dough, add the bean, and then pour more dough on top and then place the mold on the small flames- he was super fast!

Automated (at Himeji Castle):

At this particular machine (I won’t tell you how long I stood at the window, just fascinated each time I come across these…) there are two brushes on the right side of the machine that brush the inside of the molds – each mold’s side gets brushed. Then as it turns counterclockwise, the molds get dough squirted into it, then the sweet bean pellet is added. I couldn’t see all the way around so I’m not sure if then there is a second squirt of dough to cover the sweet bean before the mold is closed.
Automated Ningyo Yaki Machine. On the right side, you can see two pipes that brush the inside of the mold, and then the machine will squeeze the dough into the molds, On the other side the bean is then added, and more dough on top then the molds continue to circle, cooking it on one side until it is flipped by that lever you see on the right to cook on the other side! It ticks more counterclockwise until it gets to the lever on the right which will open and dump out the ningyo yaki

What I do know is then it clicks forward counterclockwise until the mold reaches a lever on the left side, around the 8 o’clock mark. Then, the lever flips the mold over to cook on the other side until around the 3 o’clock mark in the machine, a lever opens the mold and then a claw retrieves the hot now fully cooked cake.
In this ningyo yaki machine, it automatically does the entire process in an automated fashion. The crane carries the cooked cake to the machine on this right side to cool and get packaged down the little slide of plastic you see. On the left you can see the brushing inside the mold and then the squeezing of dough to the left of that

Then, the claw drops it perfectly each time into a new smaller machine that times the cooling of the cake and then slides it into plastic to be individually wrapped.
Automated ningyo yaki machine. The crane on the right side carries the cooked cake to the machine on this right side to cool and get packaged down the little slide of plastic you see. On the left you can see the brushing inside the mold and then the squeezing of dough to the left of that

Since these photos were taken by Himeji (a famous Japanese castle), no surprise that the ningyo yaki looks like a mini castle! When we purchased this, the man ran around the machine to give us a fresh, still warm one.
Himeji Castle shaped Ningyo Yaki - Ningyo Yaki is a cake filled with sweet red bean paste. You will often see it in the shape of various buildings or animals.

Manju

Manju is a batter (usually flour, rice powder and buckwheat) stuffed with some sort of filling (usually sweet red bean paste of boiled azuki beans and sugar). At Nakamise Dori, I was surprised to find more creative fillings, such as cherry, custard, pumpkin, sweet potato, green tea and more. Below, I got a Sesame Manju.
Manjū (饅頭?) is a popular traditional Japanese confection. There are many varieties of manjū, but most have an outside made from flour, rice powder and buckwheat and a filling of an red bean paste, made from boiled azuki beans and sugar. This stand at Nakamise Dori has many creative fillings beyond just sweet red bean Manjū (饅頭?) is a popular traditional Japanese confection. There are many varieties of manjū, but most have an outside made from flour, rice powder and buckwheat and a filling of red bean paste made from boiled azuki beans and sugar.

Nikuman

Nikuman is a smaller version of Chinese buns. They are steamed, and may be filled with meat or other fillings. They are served quite hot, often right out of the steamer, so definitely be carefully biting into it – the floury doughy soft bun may seem warm, but the inside can be piping hot.
The many snacks being made fresh that you can purchase while walking in the Higashiyama District - we stopped for these Nikuman, or steamed buns because there is a beef burdock one and also a bean green tea vegetarian one The many snacks being made fresh that you can purchase while walking in the Higashiyama District - we stopped for these Nikuman, or steamed buns because there is a beef burdock one and also a bean green tea vegetarian one

You will probably recognize it by the wooden steamer trays stacked on top of each other
Nikuman - steamed bun filled with meat and/or other ingedients. This beefy one was juicy by Himeji Castle Nikuman

For instance, I found these in the Higashiyama District – we stopped for these buns because there is a beef and burdock one and also a bean and green tea vegetarian one!
The many snacks being made fresh that you can purchase while walking in the Higashiyama District - beef and burdock one The many snacks being made fresh that you can purchase while walking in the Higashiyama District - beef and burdock The many snacks being made fresh that you can purchase while walking in the Higashiyama District - bean green tea vegetarian one The many snacks being made fresh that you can purchase while walking in the Higashiyama District - bean green tea vegetarian one

Menchi Katsu

Menchi Katsu is a breaded and deep fried cutlet or croquette, usually meat but it could be another protein (in Kyoto we had the vegetarian options of potato or tofu skin).

This meat one below shown from near Sensoji Temple at the stand Asakusa Menchi (you will probably recognize it first by the line) is the best version I’ve ever had, famous for being particularly juicy / greasy depending on your point of view and they use a rare breed pork called Kouza-buta (Kouza pork) from Kanagawa.
In line for famous Asamen's Menchi Katsu, a breaded and depe fried cutlet or croquette Very juicy and flavorful fried pork thing - apparently Menchi Katsu, a deep fried breaded cutlet - found at Asakusa, near Sensoji Temple

I also found some while walking in Higashiyama shopping street towards Kiyomizudera Temple in Kyoto- they had filling options of Kobe beef, soy milk skin cream, and Japanese potato croquette.
As a snack in the Higashiyama District, we purchased some croquettes to energize us for our uphill walk to the temple - they had kobe beef, soy milk skin cream, and Japanese potato croquette As a snack in the Higashiyama District, we purchased some croquettes to energize us for our uphill walk to the temple - they had kobe beef, soy milk skin cream, and Japanese potato croquette

Senbei

Senbei are Japanese rice crackers. There are a huge variety of senbei out there – some are sweet, salty, spicy, or savory, in all sorts of shapes and sizes and flavors. They are usually baked or grilled over charcoal. The mnst common ones you see are round, and may have a little square piece of seaweed wrapped around it and be shiny from a soy sauce glaze.

What has made senbei probably most famous is that they sell them to feed the deer at Nara. There is even a place where they throw large senbei like frisbee and the nburn down a mountain!?? Japan Talk has a webpage listing some interesting senbei trivia.

I admit I don’t necessarily seek out senbei because it makes me thirsty, and that makes me drink, and then I might have to use a public toilet and who knows if it will be the nice ones with buttons or a squat one (although at least unlike China they provide a nice handle on the wall to keep your balance). But I wanted to highlight an interesting one I found in Kyoto, on Higashiyama just across from the entrance to the Kodaji Temple. It was the aroma and seeing them being made fresh that caught my attention. Fresh senbei is always superior to packaged ones.
Senbei store where we observed it being made fresh in Higashiyama District. This senbei has been produced since 1864 and is still hand baked the exact same way. These are different in that they utilize broad bean, wheat, flour and an egg.

This one, according to a helpful English index card in the window, has been produced since 1864 and is still hand baked the exact same way. These are different in that they utilize broad bean, wheat, flour and an egg. The craftsman was super cheerful and welcoming even as he kept working the whole time. He uses those bags to pie in dough, but that rectangle in front of him is an oven full of broad beans that are being roasted – you an see some of the beans there on the cloth and paper in front of him. He scoops the beans from the big pot to his left and into drawers of the oven. Senbei store where we observed it being made fresh in Higashiyama District. This senbei has been produced since 1864 and is still hand baked the exact same way. These are different in that they utilize broad bean, wheat, flour and an egg.

We sampled all the different kinds and the bag we bought did not make it out of Japan because we ate it all.
Kyoto Senbei made with broad bean

Amazake

Amazake is a sweet warmed sake. It is made out of fermented rice and Koji (a special cultured rice – it’s bringing the important fungus that will break down the carb of the rice to sugars) so the sweetness comes naturally, not from any sugar.
Amazake that is sweet and low alcohol from the same store on Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa Amazake that is sweet and low alcohol from the same store on Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa

It is poured from the pot where it is still kept warm.
="Amazake

The texture is almost like an almond milk. There may be a lot or just a little of the rice left in the beverage.
Amazake that is sweet and low alcohol from the same store on Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa Amazake by Kiyomizudera Temple's fountains

It might be made out of white rice, brown rice, or even black sesame (which I found as a specialty at Mount Takao). It is low in alcohol, so even kids drink it. When it’s chilly out, it’s a nice warm drink that is more substantial than just tea.
Black Sesame Amazake at Mount Takao

Which of these treats caught your eye as something you would stop for? Have you had any of these before? Is there a Japanese Temple or Shrine snack I missed?

Here’s a summary of my Japan Travel post series:

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Japan Travel: Hagoita Ichi Winter Festival at Sensoji Temple

January 19, 2016 by 5 Comments

When visiting anyplace on vacation, I always look at the local events calendar to see if there are any festivals or special happening during my trip. This has lucked out in me finding out about third Friday art walks, or a small town parade, or a local festival occurring. For my trip to Japan in December, besides coinciding with Christmas and New Year’s, it turned out that the first few days we were in Tokyo would also be during the Hagoita Ichi Winter Festival at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa.
Hagoita Ichi at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, takes place December 17-19 annually Hagoita Ichi at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, takes place December 17-19 annually

Japan has many festivals all year round, and some are very localized to a region or even a town or neighborhood. The Hagoita-Ichi is an annual festival held in Asakusa, which is an older neighborhood in Tokyo. Asakusa is considered part of the old neighborhoods in Japan because it has a more traditional atmosphere and doesn’t have the bright lights and stores like you would find in more bustling modern areas. The district has also been around even before it was part of Tokyo, such as in the 1600s where in the Edo period it was an entertainment district and still considered outside the city limits.

Today Asakusa is most famous for Sensoji Temple, although it is also the area for Tokyo Skytree and Kappabashi Street (a street of stores dedicated to the food industry including a chance to view and buy the plastic food replicas). Sensoji Temple is Tokyo’s oldest temple, founded in 645 for the goddess Kannon. When entering the temple you will go through the main gate, called the Kaminarimon, or Thunder Gate. It was built in 942 and erected at this location in the Kamakura period (1192–1333). Here, you will find a giant red lantern that everyone will be walking under while on either side Fujin the Shinto god of wind and Raijin the Shinto god of thunder look on.
Kaminarimon Gate, the first gate of Sensoji Temple. The god of thunder is standing on the left and the god of wind on the right. You can also see a special sign on the left noting the Hagoita-ichi
Kaminarimon Gate, the first gate of Sensoji Temple. The god of thunder is standing on the left and the god of wind on the right. You can also see a special sign on the left noting the Hagoita-ichi

Meanwhile, this giant lantern serves as a symbol for Sensoji Temple, Asakusa, and Tokyo. The gates here have unfortunately been burnt several times so they are not original. The lantern you will pass under is a restoration that in 2003 was donated by Panasonic and is maintained every 10 years. You can also see because of Hagoita Ichi there is a special sign to the left noting the event during my visit.
Sign at Kaminarimon Gate for Hagoita-Ichi The famous giant lantern at Kaminarimon Gate, the first gate of Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, Tokyo.

Right after passing through the gates you will then see a shopping street called Nakamise Dori. Alongside Japanese souvenirs you’ll also see lots of different traditional local snacks being offered by the vendors. You can see special decorations above the crowd like an extra large New Year’s ema board with the monkey (for the Year of the Monkey) and also the paddle for Hagoita-ichi thanks to the time of year of my visit.
Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa - you can see special New Year's ema board with the monkey (for the Year of the Monkey) and also the paddle for Hagoita-ichi decorations above the crowd Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa

If you follow Namakise Dori down, you will reach the second gate, Hozomon Gate, beyond which is the temple’s main hall and a five storied pagoda as well as other halls.
The Hozomon Gate at Sensoji Temple is the second gate, beyond which is the temple's main hall and a five storied pagoda. The Hozomon Gate at Sensoji Temple is the second gate, beyond which is the temple's main hall and a five storied pagoda.

It’s a lot more spread out past Hozomon, so you can enjoy the beauty of the temple without being so packed together with people like on Namakise Dori. You might see near the Main Hall people getting fortunes. They have English ones too if you want to try your luck. If you get a bad luck fortune, follow the others in tying your paper to the metal wires they have so it will wait here instead of attach itself to you. If it’s good, you can also tie it here so it has stronger effect, or take it with you. Other sights may be people gathering to breathe in the incense smoke to ward off illness before entering the Main Hall to offer prayers.
Moon rising over the Main Hall of Sensoji Temple Moon rising over the Main Hall of Sensoji Temple
Moon rising over the Main Hall of Sensoji Temple

If you walk just to the left/west of the Main Hall, you will find several other halls that house various images of Buddhas or other disciples.
In Sensoji Temple, Asakusa In Sensoji Temple, Asakusa In Sensoji Temple, Asakusa In Sensoji Temple, Asakusa

The Five Storied Pagoda is hard to miss.
Five Storied Pagoda in Sensoji Temple, Asakusa Five Storied Pagoda in Sensoji Temple, Asakusa

There are some great specific Japanese snacks you can find on Nakamise Dori – I’ll highlight that in next week’s Travel Tuesday post. We did run into some tents of food vendors that are not usually here but were present because of Hagoita Ichi just outside Hozomon Gate. They are typical of the food vendors that set up stands just to the outside of the temple during festivals.
Some of the food just outside Hozomon Gate at Sensoji Temple for Hagoita Ichi Some of the food just outside Hozomon Gate at Sensoji Temple for Hagoita Ichi
Some of the food just outside Hozomon Gate at Sensoji Temple for Hagoita Ichi Some of the food just outside Hozomon Gate at Sensoji Temple for Hagoita Ichi Some of the food just outside Hozomon Gate at Sensoji Temple for Hagoita Ichi

We also took some time to admire all the 50 some vendor tents of the Hagoita-Ichi, which is held annually from December 17-19th, 9 AM – 9 PM. Hagoita means wooden paddle or battledore, and although traditionally used to play a game called Hanetsuki that’s similar to badminton, the paddles you see at Hagoita Ichi are ornamental.
Hagoita Ichi at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, takes place December 17-19 annually Hagoita Ichi at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, takes place December 17-19 annually

They are often painted, and then handsewn and stuffed for a pillowy effect to the decorative characters of kabuki actors, women in gorgeous detailed kimonos, gods and goddesses, symbols of the new year like the incoming year of the Monkey, or other celebrities.
Hagoita Ichi at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, takes place December 17-19 annually Hagoita Ichi at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, takes place December 17-19 annually Hagoita Ichi at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, takes place December 17-19 annually

If you look carefully you’ll see basketball players and soccer players, even an ice skater, Hello Kitty and Doraeman!
Hagoita Ichi at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, takes place December 17-19 annually Hagoita Ichi at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, takes place December 17-19 annually "Hagoita Hagoita Ichi at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, takes place December 17-19 annually

The Hagoita are considered good luck charms that apparently are a “board to bounce back evil.”
Hagoita Ichi at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, takes place December 17-19 annually Hagoita Ichi at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, takes place December 17-19 annually
Not all the vendors sell hagoita although most of them do – there are also other New Year auspicious decorations at a few, such as handpainted kites – so gorgeous. All the colors were so spectacular.
Kite vendor at Hagoita Ichi in Sensoji Temple, Asakusa

Admission to the Temple is free, and is a definite must visit if you are in Tokyo, whether there is a festival going on or not in my opinion. This is an extremely popular temple, but the crowds are manageable and orderly, and there is so much to see in terms of Japanese culture that is old and new all in one place.

Have you been to Sensoji Temple in Asakusa? Have you seen photos of that famous Sensoji lantern before or heard about this temple? What do you think of the Hagoita?

For more details on Sensoji Temple or Hagoita Ichi, I used these references:

Here’s a summary of my Japan Travel post series:

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Denver Beer Vacation: Celebrate GABF outside of GABF

November 17, 2015 by Leave a Comment

Even though you may not have tickets to a session of GABF, during GABF week in Denver there is so much going on with special tappings all over town that you can have an amazing time trying new beers from all over the US without even stepping into the convention center. Here’s a look at some of the hubs for outside GABF activities to check out.

You can also consider this a list of places to sample a huge variety of beers from different breweries with their many taps in the downtown Denver area, whether GABF is happening or not. Perhaps you are on a Denver beer vacation and want to only stop at one or a few places where you can get a big buffet of beer options all in one sitting? Then this is your list.
Snifter of Avery beer

Tap Takeovers at World of Beer

World of Beer is a franchise with three locations in Colorado and one in Renton, Washington. Even without the special tap takeover when we visited, World of Beer offers 500+ beers. You read that right, more than 500 beers!
The tap handles during the Avery Tap Takeover at World of Beer, Lodo The tap handles during the Avery Tap Takeover at World of Beer, Lodo

And, they open from lunch until evening, so you don’t have to necessarily wait until after work when most bars open – great if you’re say, on vacation like I was. The beer menu is well organized into styles with helpful descriptions to help you make sense of their selection.
Avery Tap Takeover during GABF at World Beer, Lodo location on 1555 Blake Street Avery Tap Takeover during GABF at World Beer, Lodo location on 1555 Blake Street

The 500 beers includes bottles and drafts, and I focused mostly on the drafts.
Chalkboard menu during the Avery Tap Takeover at World of Beer, Lodo

In particular, during my visit there was an Avery Brewing tap takeover with almost all of its year-round and seasonal beer. I loved the Avery Tectum Et Elix Barrel Aged #26, a funky American Wild with earthy flavors soured with Pediococcus and aged in cabernet barrels for 9 months, and the Avery Uncle Jacob’s Stout, an Imperial Stout at 17.4% but so smooth.
Avery Tectum Et Elix Barrel Aged #26, a funky American Wild with earthy flavors soured with Pediococcus and aged in cabernet barrels for 9 months Avery Uncle Jacob's Stout, an Imperial Stout at 17.4%

Also available at World of Lodo on our visit was Utah’s Wasatch Brewing with brewers and swag for their annual Polygamy Party and some beers from Coronado Brewing and Cigar City.
Wasatch Brewery from Utah was also present with swag and brewers to promote their beer Wasatch Brewery from Utah was also present with swag and brewers to promote their beer

World of Beer also offers tavern food, with a dozen some appetizers, flatbreads, salads, burgers and sandwiches. One of the recommended starters is their German Pretzel, they have a cool way of presenting their giant Bavarian pretzel served with housemade mustard and for a little extra, housemade beer cheese sauce. That’s a regular snifter glass for size comparison there in the photo. I didn’t have room for dessert, but was tempted by their beer infused Belgian Waffle S’mores with toasted marshmallow, graham cracker crumbles and Kahlúa fudge sauce.
The impressively sized pretzel with cheese and mustard is served on hanging to better show fof it's size at World of Beer, Lodo

World of Beer offers happy hour as well as “Beerunch” – that’s right, a beer brunch that includes breakfast and unlimited bloody mary, mimosa, and beermosa bottomless booze brunch special (with food item), and a build your own bloody station. On their menu besides beer, they also had some interesting shots: Cinnamon Toast Crunch with Fireball and Rumchata, Irish Breakfast with Jameson, Butterscotch Schnapps and OJ, Baby Guinness with Patron XO and Bailey’s Irish Cream, and Duck Fart with Crown Royal, Bailey’s Irish Cream and Kahlua… and more
Some of the Shots available - Cinnamon Toast Crunch with Fireball and Rumchata, Irish Breakfast with Jameson, Butterscotch Schnapps and OJ, Baby Guinness with Patron XO and Bailey's Irish Cream, and Duck Fart with Crown Royal, Bailey's Irish Cream and Kahlua... and more

So if you are looking for a great variety of craft beer with food, and maybe also a bunch of TVs available to watch a game, World of Beer is a viable option that can satisfy many tastes of beer and food with a big selection.
Various collected tap handles Poetry: Roses are red, Beer is good, Poems are hard BEER
World of Beer Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Tap Takeovers at Freshcraft

Freshcraft, only half a block away in Lodo, offers only 28 taps but the food menu here is more refined, focused specifically on pairing well with beer. Serving lunch and dinner, dishes here sound tasty like a Deviled Pork Belly Wrap with spicy pork belly confit with apples, cabbage, carrots, scallions, jack cheese, and a red wine mustard BBQ sauce; or consider a Cheese Crusted Iowa Style Fried Pork Tenderloin sandwich at lunch. There is even support for a good option for a vegetarian diet, such as their cocoa marinated crimini mushrooms tacos, or quinoa nicoise with Parmesan-crusted quinoa cakes served with fresh greens, cured egg, marinated olives, green beans, tomatoes, and herbed potatoes. (.
Freshcraft, featuring 28 some taps Freshcraft, featuring 28 some taps

When we visited, their tap takeover I specifically came for was Upslope Brewing Company, where I was able to try special tappings of their beers such as

  • Irish Red Ale- GABF Pro-Am competition Entry
  • Imperial Saison with Merlot Grapes, the Upslope 6th Anniversary Ale
  • Yirgacheffe Coffee Dubel, an Upslope and Dragonfly Roasters collaboration
  • Lychee IPA with Azacca Hops, an Upslope and Half Acre Beer Company collaboration

Freshcraft, featuring 28 some taps and tap takeovers each night. On Wednesday September 23 the featured brewery was UpSlope Freshcraft, featuring 28 some taps and tap takeovers each night. On Saturday September 23 the featured brewery was Odell Brewing and Firestone Walker
Freshcraft Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Falling Rock Tap House

The biggest beer party of GABF, besides GABF itself, it always Falling Rock Tap House. With 92 taps & over 300 bottled selections plus an extensive Vintage Beer Cellar, Falling Rock has basically been serving as the UnOfficial Headquarters for GABF and are open the latest (2AM!) of the options I’ve listed here. The taps are about 40% Colorado Beers, but also include a great selection of beers from the rest of the US as well as from the World.
Falling Rock Tap House - additional taps are added outside in their parking lot for special tappings multiple times daily during GABF week Falling Rock Tap House - besides the taps inside, additional taps are added outside in their parking lot for special tappings multiple times daily during GABF week

During GABF they expand to their parking lot to have beer trailers in order to offer even more beers, and at in the afternoons through late evenings go through 5 or 10 changing of the kegs to feature other breweries on their taps inside or outside. For instance, on the day we visited they had cycled through Oskar Blues beers at 4 PM; Ballast Point at 9 PM; Shelton Brothers-distributed brews at 9:30 PM; the Verboten/Hoppin’ Frog collab beers at 10 PM; Wicked Week, Cascade, Fremont, Two Roads and Crooked Stave at 10:30 PM; and Trinity beers at 11 p.m.

The parking lot during GABF was cash only, but could truly rightfully claim that “Our Trailer Park has better Beer than your Trailer Park! :-)” with options such as Jolly Pumpkin La Parcela, Mikkeller Double Blueberry, Trois Dames Framboos Saison, Lord Hobo Boom Sauce, and more on the first night we visited.
Falling Rock Tap House - additional taps are added outside in their parking lot for special tappings multiple times daily during GABF week Falling Rock Tap House - additional taps are added outside in their parking lot for special tappings multiple times daily during GABF week

The feel of Falling Rock is a bit like a frat house in that you can probably expect lots of guys drinking lots of beer, but without the immaturity. But, yes, it’s dark woods and the floors are a little sticky. There’s food offered though it’s nothing beyond the normal – you are really here for the beer and in many cases to meet all the fellow beer lovers and brewers who all will be hanging here.
Many, many bottles and tap handles displayed along all the walls of Falling Rock Taphouse Many, many bottles and tap handles displayed along all the walls of Falling Rock Taphouse

They do at least clearly label the bathroom to help everyone out.
Signage to assist you in finding the restroom at Falling Rock Taphouse Signage to assist you in finding the restroom at Falling Rock Taphouse
Falling Rock Tap House Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

All three of these locations are very walkable – only all within 1/2 a mile of each other, and within a mile of the Colorado Convention Center where GABF is held. For my thoughts on my GABF 2015 experience, see my previous post here. I also covered enjoying beer within Denver and visiting breweries outside Denver by Longmont and Boulder.

Other ways to keep on top of the many many beer events in Denver is to check out a month or so before GABF the First Drafts beer blog at the Denver Post or calendar/listing at Westword, a Denver event listing publication.

Overall, it was a fun trip to have the biggest beercation ever for GABF week, and supporting and celebrating Craft Beer. Even with all the various stops I had there were always unique new beer flavors to enjoy among so many styles. Of all the places I’ve visited so far, Denver is the closest to Portland in it’s broad and deep beer scene offerings and having destinations within reasonable distances to each other to go on a beer sampling trip, beating Austin in beer quality and San Diego in how easy it is to visit.

I’ll still pick Portland as the winningest beercation city in the US though. 🙂

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Visiting Denver for Beer Vacation / Beercation and GABF in September 2015

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Filed Under: Beer Review, Festival Event, Food and Drink, Travel Tagged With: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
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