DaNet, a Russian Dinner Party Popup

May 29, 2015 by 8 Comments

After the Sochi Winter Olympics in Russia in  2014, Vitaly Paley did a Russian pop up celebrating the Russian Sun Festival. It was incredible, and I was thrilled when he announced they would be doing DaNet, a Russian Pop Up experience in that same space (Portland Penny Diner) once or twice a month starting in September 2014 and ongoing. After holding off on attending until I completed the promise I made to myself to finish reading The Art of Soviet Cooking (I reviewed it as well), this past spring I finally was able to reward myself.

The DaNet dinner / Russian experience consists of 4 courses all at one seating at 6:30pm, where the food is served mostly family style. The cost is $75 per person plus gratuity, and you need to make reservations to secure your seat beforehand.

Although I found some articles at the Oregonian (“DaNet, Vitaly Paley’s Russian restaurant pop-up, takes us back to the USSR” by Michael Russell) and Portland Monthly (“Portland Monthly’s Cuisine of the Year 2014: Kachka and DaNet’s Russian Party” by Karen Brooks) praising the DaNet, there has been nothing recapping what the exact experience was – so I though I’d provide that service for you. That’s the freedom of writing as a blogger – I can go into the play by play details you wouldn’t find in newspapers and magazines (which is why I think news media and bloggers have a very complimentary relationship, not necessarily competitive). So here’s my recap from my experience on May 15, 2015. I believe that although the specific food items may sometimes change, the format is the same for each Russian pop-up experience.
DaNet palate cleanser between fourth and fifth (dessert) course of Beryozovy sok, a birch sap that tastes like a slightly, subtly sweetened water

The doors of Portland Penny Diner open promptly at 6:30. When you enter, check in your reservation at a table at the front. As a reward for checking in, they offer ayou choice of one of three beverages to help tide you over as you walk towards the back of the diner to one of 3 long tables.  I was immediately charmed by the apron upon walking in, and the welcome drink immediately shifted the vibe from a typical restaurant to a family gathering or party instead.
You are welcomed at DaNet, which pops up at the Portland Penny Diner twice a month, with a beverage as you check in your reservation name. I was immediately charmed by the apron just upon walking in You are welcomed at DaNet, which pops up at the Portland Penny Diner twice a month, with a beverage as you check in your reservation name. You are welcomed at DaNet, which pops up at the Portland Penny Diner twice a month, with a beverage as you check in your reservation name. I was immediately charmed by the apron just upon walking in

The Russian party concept is further reinforced as even before I can get past the first table, I am offered my first zakuski as a passed hors d’oeuvre, one not listed on the menu – it was some sort of fried dumpling, a kind of beef piroshky (or piroshki? I don’t know whether it’s an i or a y…).
DaNet, a Russian Dinner Party which pops up at the Portland Penny Diner twice a month. Fried beef piroshky is passed as people are finding their assigned seats DaNet, a Russian Dinner Party which pops up at the Portland Penny Diner twice a month. Fried beef piroshky is passed as people are finding their assigned seats

Meanwhile, as you walk through the long room, you can admire the tchotchkes lining the small countertop on your rightside. Real Russian traditional tchotchkes – all random decorative trinkets like nesting dolls and wooden lacquered containers that you wouldn’t actually use because they are too pretty to function. Well, except for the tea-set you see there – you will actually see that used later tonight. I always get a kick out of the political nesting dolls with Yeltsin, Gorbachev, Brezhnev, and Stalin.
Check out some of the tchotchkes along the countertop as you walk towards the tables of DaNet Russian Pop Up Check out some of the tchotchkes along the countertop as you walk towards the tables of DaNet Russian Pop Up- I always get a kick out of the nesting dolls with Yeltsin, Gorbachev, Brezhnev, Stalin

The various decorative tchotchkes all around are the epitome of the strange mix of the traditional Motherland Russia that are remnants of Imperial Russia, as well as the era of the red Soviet Union. Neither of these personify modern Russia and Union Soviet Socialist Republics, but they are still vivid memories and indelibly part of the culture now. On your left is an impressive DaNet ice sculpture. As you head towards the back, Soviet Union era posters are on the wall, as well as lots of candles and a few Russian cookbooks.
Check out some of the tchotchkes along the countertop as you walk towards the tables of DaNet Russian Pop Up DaNet ice sculpture on the bar at the Russian Pop up at Portland Penny Diner Soviet Union era posters along the back wall of Portland Penny Diner during the DaNet popup Soviet Union era posters along with some Russian culinary books along the back wall of Portland Penny Diner during the DaNet popup

As you walk past the tables, look carefully for your assigned seats for your dining reservation, marked by a little sheet stating simply “xxx Party” at each of the designated seats.
DaNet Russian Pop up Experience - find your assigned seats for your dining party at one of the communal tables DaNet Russian Pop up Experience - find your assigned seats for your dining party at one of the communal tables

Peruse the menus at your seat – one sheet lists the whole dinner so you can begin to fortify yourself for the big meal that is about to come. While the dinner menu refers to one course of “zakuski”, a second menu sheet lists the bounty of what that zakuski actually consists of and you will see that this one “drinking foods” course is actually more like 5 appetizers! You should expect this, as seems to be a Russian custom, you will be served dishes and dishes of food until you are completely and uncomfortably full.

On the back of the dinner menu are a list of optional (at extra cost from the $75 set dinner price) beverages. Should you want to partake in vodka (highly recommended), they have flights of regular vodka, as well as infused vodkas such as horseradish dill vodka, or elderberry vodka. If straight vodka is a bit intimidating (you can choose to share among your dinner party of course), consider the cocktails as the mix of other liquids in the glass help round out the punch of vodka. You can also choose instead to have a matching wine pairing flight with each course. A server will come to your table to introduce herself or himself, and take your drink order.

The first course are the zakuski, which are traditional drinking foods – aka this is the perfect time to get your vodka on. I prefer the flavored vodkas, which I think is a middle ground between the straight vodka (but the more authentic experience) and the cocktails. It is expected that you take little sips of the vodka, and bites of your zakuski.

Chef Vitaly Paley was our guide throughout the night, ringing a little bell his mother had suggested in order to get everyone’s attention before introducing each course and describing the individual food items. I wish he could have talked longer as we were eating each item so I could look and see and think about each food item as he was telling us the history of it, and more about how it was made. To me, this felt like more than just a chef listing what food was on the menu for each course, but like a tour that we were taking to a country we were not familiar with, done via food. So I kept wanting to hear more, not much different from wanting to hear the tales of the old country from your parents or uncles or grandparents.
Vitaly Paley was our guide through the courses at DaNet, the Russian Pop Up experience. Here he is chatting about the zakuski

Meanwhile, kind Chef Paley seems worried about us being hungry and waiting during these intros to the courses (except for the kulebyaka, which is is super proud to tell us about and introduce us to) and tries to not draw our attention too long with him talking. So he goes over details pretty fast so listen up when he speaks! He’s done quite  a few of these, yet still seems endearingly a bit nervous about the right amount of story to share. I understand a bit – he actually has a similar background to author Anya van Bremzen who wrote the memoir Art of Soviet Cooking I just read.  He too, immigrated from the former Soviet Union and was a concert pianist, but then ended up turning to cooking and excelling in it at an international level  (it is really weird that this is her exact story as well, though they come from different cities in former USSR. Not surprising to hear they are friends.). And from her memoir, it seems Russian immigrants have a complex love and hate relationship with the memory of the Soviet Union.

In fact, just look at the name of the popup overall, DaNet. Da means yes in Russian, and Net means no, so putting them together like DaNet (Да Нет) has a meaning of similar to “yes I agree, but no I also disagree, and even though you might think I am therefore neutral I disagree more than agree.” So the phrase together ultimately means no, a softer no than an outright no, and an illustration of the craziness of an everyday Russian phrase that uses two opposite words but still means something. Complicated, mixed feelings here! Anyway, on to the food recap!

First Course

On my dinner night, the zakuski included Solenya (Russian word for pickles), Ash roasted beet pkhali, Traditional Blini served with sour cream and dill, melted butter and seawater cured caviar (of course this was my favorite zakuski), Salade Olivier (a Russian salad with potatoes and vegetables and mayo and whose specific ingredients vary from family to family and is listed as one of the 1001 foods to die for, just like the Blini and Caviar dish). The acidity of the various types of Solenya (each one varying in sourness) were a great counterpoint to the richness of the heavier Salade Olivier and the rich Blini you assemble yourself. If you think you don’t like beets, try the ash roasted beet pkhali anyway as you may be surprised. The Blini pancakes are generously sized like medium pancakes!
Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Solenya (Russian word for pickles) Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Ash roasted beet pkhali Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Solenya (Russian word for pickles) and Ash roasted beet pkhali Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Traditional Blini served with sour cream and dill, melted butter and seawater cured caviar Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Traditional Blini served with sour cream and dill, melted butter and seawater cured caviar Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Salade Olivier

Nope, the list for the first course is still going, the zakuski also included buterbrodi, which are open faced sandwiches with butter and other toppings – we got four different kinds, of which I can no longer read my handwriting on what I wrote what they were – but all were delicious, and I have a little heart drawn next to the duck one (the one at the very top of the buterbrodi platter in the second photo – and the only one I got seconds of).
Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. We were served four types of buterbrodi, here being described by Vitaly Paley as Karen Brooks dutifully takes notes Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. We were served four types of buterbrodi Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. We were served four types of buterbrodi

As the second bonus of the night already (still on course 1 of zakuski here), Chef Paley had brought some special garlic sausages from his last trip to New York, and generously shared it with us at the dinner, served with a bit of horseradish. I was having a hard time fitting everything on my plate!
Vitaly Paley explained this bonus zakuski (not listed on the menu) was a special garlic sausage he had brought back with him from New York. It is served here with horseradish Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Solenya (Russian word for pickles), Traditional Blini (served with sour cream, dill, and seawater cured caviar), ash roasted beet pkhali, and salade olivier, and four types of buterbrodi (open faced bread and butter sandwiches). Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Solenya (Russian word for pickles), Traditional Blini (served with sour cream, dill, and seawater cured caviar), ash roasted beet pkhali, and salade olivier, and four types of buterbrodi (open faced bread and butter sandwiches). Here's a look at my favorite 3 zakuski

Second Course

Time for stew. For this dinner, it was Schi Bogatye and Kartorelkye Klyotski, a game broth and ash roasted cabbage stew with potato dumplings, with chives and herbs to add on top as garnish. The schi was served also with Buckwheat Rastegai (that bread with the hole at the top), and also Red Kraut Piroshki (those had no hole). The rastegai has an open center into which you traditionally could pour some of the stew – though in this case, it seemed the hole was too small for such an action.
DaNet Second course was Schi Bogatye and a Kartorelkye Klyotski, a game broth and ash roasted cabbage stew with potato dumplings. It was served also with Rastegai, and also Red Kraut Piroshki DaNet Second course was Schi Bogatye and a Kartorelkye Klyotski, a game broth and ash roasted cabbage stew with potato dumplings. It was served also with Rastegai, and also Red Kraut Piroshki DaNet Second course was Schi Bogatye and a Kartorelkye Klyotski, a game broth and ash roasted cabbage stew with potato dumplings. It was served also with Rastegai, and also Red Kraut Piroshki

It may just seem like soup with some filled dumpling bread on the side, but that schi has great texture, lots of layers of flavors, and is quite filling. And there were lots of extra red kraut piroshki on the side too – make sure you add a little spoonful of that side of sour cream to the schi.
DaNet Second course was Schi Bogatye and a Kartorelkye Klyotski, a game broth and ash roasted cabbage stew with potato dumplings. It was served also with Rastegai, and also Red Kraut Piroshki DaNet Second course offered lots of Red Kraut Piroshki - at my end of the table we added the sour cream to the Schi too

Third Course

Ooof, now time for the third course. I was already starting to get pretty full, but tried to soldier on with my comrades at my table. This was a significantly important  dish. I know this because Chef Paley became Professor and proud host as he read to us from 1,000 Foods to Eat Before You Die: A Food Lover’s Life List about kulebyaka, as mentioned in multiple Russian literature and food books before the big presentation. Then the kulebyaka was presented at each table for guest admiration and photos before being cut up for individual plating.
At DaNet, Vitaly Paley reads to us about kulebyaka before the big presentation of the DaNet Third course. Kulybyaka (King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings) is presented before it is cut for individual plate service At DaNet, Vitaly Paley reads to us about kulebyaka before the big presentation of the DaNet Third course. Kulybyaka (King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings) is presented before it is cut for individual plate service

I really wanted to take a photo as he was reading but felt bad about standing up to go to the kitchen area (only a few feet away), but thankfully Karen Brooks got up first, so I totally followed her. This is a really painstaking, ardous dish to make – Chef Paley confessed this took several days to prepare.
At DaNet, Vitaly Paley reads to us about kulebyaka before the big presentation of the DaNet Third course. Kulybyaka (King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings) is presented before it is cut for individual plate service

Tonight, the kulebyaka came as King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings. The inside of the kulebyaka was fabulous, but I was hoping for more buttery goodness from the pastry after Chef Paley had read to us about how Anton Chekhov had described that

“the kulebyaka must make your mouth water, it must lie there before you – a shameless temptation…butter drips like tears, and the filling is fat, juicy, rich…”

So being a lover of butter, I really was looking for some more butter. Of course, I am also the type of person who empties the entire butter container when eating lobster with butter, and can eat radishes with little pats of butter. The morels were exquisite, and I saved and savored them dividing them carefully among my bites along with the accompanying heavenly roll your eyes back sauce (I wanted twice as much) and crispy viziga crackling.

The viziga is a very rare specialty, the spinal cord marrow of a sturgeon. I don’t know what trials were needed to extract this (since exact specifications were not detailed in historical recipes, and a dish this gourmet like kulebyaka or viziga would have been viewed as czarist and a target of Soviet class warfare). I don’t know  what then further mysterious technique then would transform that gelatinous delicacy into these crackling vaguely reminiscent of the best lil nuggets of fried chicken skin… But it’s mouth magic.
DaNet Third course. Kulybyaka (King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings) DaNet Third course. Kulybyaka (King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings) DaNet Third course. Kulybyaka (King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings) DaNet Third course. Kulybyaka (King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings)

Fourth Course

After a little palate cleanser between the last and this course of Beryozovy sok, a birch sap (it tastes like water with a subtle sweet taste to it), came the dessert platters with tea service. The Chai black tea from Samovar comes with accompaniments like sugars and jam (!) to sweeten the tea.
Dessert course is served with Chai black tea from Samovar with accompaniments like sugars and jam to sweeten the tea

Four desserts! I don’t know if I got all these names right, so forgive me:

  • Baked Milk Ice Cream on a Stick (Toplyonoye Moloko Eskimo) – my favorite of the four
  • Bird’s Milk Cookies (Ptychye Moloko)
  • Rhubarb Jam Stuffed Donuts (Ponchiki S Varenyem)
  • Chef Vitaly Paley’s mom’s Cacao and sour cream layer torte (Steopka)

Dessert course includes Baked Milk Ice Cream on a Stick (Toplyonoye Moloko Eskimo), Bird's Milk Cookies (Ptychye Moloko), Rhubarb Jam Stuffed Donuts (Ponchiki S Varenyem), and Vitaly Paley's mom's Cacao and sour cream layer torte (Steopka), served with Chai black tea from Samovar with accompaniments like sugars and jam to sweeten the tea DaNet Dessert course includes Rhubarb Jam Stuffed Donuts (Ponchiki S Varenyem), and Vitaly Paley's mom's Cacao and sour cream layer torte (Steopka) DaNet Dessert course includes Baked Milk Ice Cream on a Stick (Toplyonoye Moloko Eskimo) and Bird's Milk Cookies (Ptychye Moloko)

The final and last time my plate was full of an assortment of goodness – it started and ended that way.
DaNet Dessert course includes Baked Milk Ice Cream on a Stick (Toplyonoye Moloko Eskimo), Bird's Milk Cookies (Ptychye Moloko), Rhubarb Jam Stuffed Donuts (Ponchiki S Varenyem), and Vitaly Paley's mom's Cacao and sour cream layer torte (Steopka), served with Chai black tea from Samovar with accompaniments like sugars and jam to sweeten the tea DaNet Dessert course includes Baked Milk Ice Cream on a Stick (Toplyonoye Moloko Eskimo), Bird's Milk Cookies (Ptychye Moloko), Rhubarb Jam Stuffed Donuts (Ponchiki S Varenyem), and Vitaly Paley's mom's Cacao and sour cream layer torte (Steopka), served with Chai black tea from Samovar with accompaniments like sugars and jam to sweeten the tea

You can make reservations now for DaNet, which it seems for the summer is scaled back to only popping up once a month – and June has already sold out 3 weeks ahead of time! To reserve your space for July or August, contact Imperial at (503) 228-7222. See the DaNet website for more details on dates.

If you have the opportunity, II really enjoyed the way that I set the experience up for myself- that is, making myself read the Art of Soviet Cooking before coming to this popup. Reading a bit before gave me a lot more context behind so many of the things I saw and ate (in particular, Anya has her first chapter in which she talks a great deal about kulebyaka). But, I also think this is a great Russian dinner experience even without the book. The communal adventure of sitting with others and meeting/talking with them while sharing dishes family style, together learning through the guide of Chef Paley, plus the expert technical culinary execution combined with the labor of love of this complicated food… This is a Russian party that you will be hard pressed to find unless you find some immigrant friends who are willing and able to spend so many days and so much time to create these all these dishes.

Have you had Russian food before?

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NFCA GREAT Kitchens Gluten-Free Dinner at Imperial

November 1, 2013 by 4 Comments

Disclosure: This meal was complimentary, but I will always provide my honest opinion and assessment of all products and experiences I may be given. The views and opinions expressed in this blog are entirely my own.

I was very fortunate a few days ago to be invited to attend a five-course gluten-free chef’s table dinner with Chef Jehangir Mehta and Portland’s Chef Vitaly Paley of Paley’s Place, Imperial, and Portland Penny Diner. Both have been on Food Network: Chef Mehta may be recognizable from being runner up on Next Iron Chef and competing on Iron Chef America (Battle Coconut), and Chef Paley also has done battle on Iron Chef America (Battle Radish. BTW if you come here, make yourself order the Radish Walks Into A Bar cocktail with radish gastrique, it is stunning and super delicious).

Chef Jehangir Mehta Portland’s Chef Vitaly Paley of Paley's Place, Imperial, and Portland Penny Diner

The event was part of the GREAT Kitchens Gluten-Free Chef’s Table Tour (#gfchefstable), sponsored by the National Foundation for Celiac Awareness (NFCA). After kicking off in New York City last week, the second stop on the 10-city national educational tour was our very own Portland for a few days! Earlier that day Chef Mehta hosted a meal with Chef Naomi Pomeroy at Beast, and marathon-ed on to join with Paley at  Imperial, and then the next day he worked with Portland State University to speak to students and work with dining staff.

Chef Jehangir Mehta, NFCA chef ambassador: “We hope to educate chefs across the country about the need for gluten-free menu items and open up a new culinary world for those who must avoid gluten.”

The goal of the gfchefstable is to educate restaurants and schools on how to provide safe gluten-free dining experiences. The tour also include Chefs Mehta partnering with local chefs to demonstrate gluten-free restaurant dining experiences.  Of course the initiative also raises awareness for celiac disease, which affect an estimated three million Americans or 1% of the general population – and that’s not counting other gluten-related disorders even if you do not have celiac disease (an estimated 18 million or 6% of the population). 30 percent of Americans are avoiding or eliminating gluten from their diet because of gluten sensitivity.

National Foundation for Celiac Awareness, NFCA

About Gluten-Free

Gluten can be found in wheat, rye, barley, and triticale (a hybrid of wheat and rye) and oats (because of how they are processed). Avoiding gluten can be more difficult than just avoiding foods with flour- baked goods, anything with dough like bread, pasta, pizza, and beer being the most obvious. For instance gluten can also show up in processed food, varying from sauces (soy sauce, ketchup, salad dressing for example) and seasonings to candy! So asking about specific ingredients and handling is important for a gluten-free diet, which can be hard because those working in the service industry may not know all details if not all everything is made from scratch themselves, and/or there might be mistakes in cross-contamination (like using the same cutting board as gluten products).

I am not a gluten-free diner, but I am certainly aware of limiting my intake- I don’t usually have much gluten (I don’t eat many baked goods- things like bread, pasta, and pizza I might have every few weeks. My carb vice is rice.). Because of how often it is in food though, I would be kidding myself if I didn’t admit I am probably having some every day. Most noticeably for me, though I have not had it officially tested, the affect I see is from drinking beer, which I do a couple times a week. I have noticed in the past few years how it has nothing to do with the alcohol but it gives me consistent digestive issues and I get quickly fatigued if I have more than 1.5 pints (yet, give me a half bottle of wine and I’m fine!), so I might have a sort of gluten sensitivity. I’m very fortunate that it seems I can have some gluten and not notice much, with one possible exception.

But there’s no official definition for gluten sensitivity, or diagnosis – there is a blood test for celiac disease though it still remains undiagnosed for many people!

I certainly sympathize with the cause, and support the NFCA campaign. Going to a gluten-free diet is very difficult- there isn’t much labeling on processed foods or in restaurant menus, and cross-contamination is a common mistake. For someone with celiac disease, the consequences can be disastrous- even a small amount can affect them for more than a month, and not be out of their system for half a year. It’s serious stuff- some people need to avoid gluten as seriously as those with nut or dairy allergies since it can lead to infertility, reduced bone density aka getting osteoporosis and broken bones, neurological disorders, and some cancers. Yet there is not a lot of awareness because the effects build, rather than the immediate reaction you visibly see to allergies, even though the person can feel quite sick from the gluten.

One new learning I walked away with is that the NFCA has Gluten-Free Resource Education and Awareness training available via GREAT Kitchens, and has recently added online training modules for food service professionals. If they complete all the courses they get a special sticker to place in the restaurant so you know they have gone through training on gluten-free food preparation and cross-contamination avoidance. It also puts them as a listed resource here if you are gluten-free and traveling/looking for a safe gluten-free eating place. Sadly, you can see that this is a program that is not being taken advantage of, which is how you encounter common problems such as contamination where a gluten free bread is created, but then cut with the same knife as other breads! So thank goodness for this Table Tour! During the Gluten-Free dinner at Imperial, Chef Paley, whose wife is gluten-free, pledged that he and his staff are going to take this training!

Gluten Free Resource Education and Awareness Training via GREAT Kitchens Program of NFCA

Gluten-Free Dinner at Imperial Recap

But now let’s look at the food right? What a fabulous meal this Gluten-Free Dinner at Imperial was, and it’s all gluten free, all these courses, all! And I love that Imperial has lighting so you can enjoy the colors and presentation of the food! I was at a table full of other PDX bloggers, and it was fun as we all pulled out and snapped photos with every single dish!

First, we kicked off with a cocktail called the Rickshaw. It included a special Paley’s sorghum whiskey with bonal quinquina, cocchi americano rose, and hibiscus rose bitters. The sorghum whiskey was a very special bottle for Vitaly Paley that was distilled from Bob’s Red Mill sorghum and prepared at the gluten free brewery facility Harvester Brewery (I love their chestnut gluten free beer) and then fermented, distilled and bottled by Clear Creek Distilling. Essentially, this sorghum whiskey is an American version of Baijiu, which is a Chinese alcohol. Go teamwork! Unfortunately, this is his last bottle because it was a one time thing… unless we create demand for them to make more!

NFCA GREAT Kitchens Gluten-Free Dinner at Imperial. We started with a cocktail called the Rickshaw. It included a special Paley's sorghum whiskey with bonal quinquina, cocchi americano rose, and hibiscus rose bitters NFCA GREAT Kitchens Gluten-Free Dinner at Imperial. Inspired by Vitaly Paley and distilled from Bob's Red Mill sorghum and prepared at the gluten free brewery facility Harvester Brewery (I love their chestnut gluten free beer) and then fermented, distilled and bottled by Clear Creek Distilling. Go teamwork!

Then, we shared several appetizers

  • Spiced Popped Sorghum- fun little bites like popcorn, but more flavorful and healthier!
  • Shrimp and Chickpea Pancake
  • Curried Squash and Goat Cheese Fritters with a green goddess sauce. This was my favorite of the three- so often at a restaurant the batter for fried foods is not going to be gluten-free, but this was so delicious! I may have had 3.

"NFCA NFCA GREAT Kitchens Gluten-Free Dinner at Imperial. Shrimp and Chickpea Pancake NFCA GREAT Kitchens Gluten-Free Dinner at Imperial. Shrimp and Chickpea Pancake  NFCA GREAT Kitchens Gluten-Free Dinner at Imperial. Shrimp and Chickpea Pancake NFCA GREAT Kitchens Gluten-Free Dinner at Imperial. Curried Squash and Goat Cheese Fritters with a green goddess sauce NFCA GREAT Kitchens Gluten-Free Dinner at Imperial. Curried Squash and Goat Cheese Fritters with a green goddess sauce

For the First Course, we enjoyed a refreshing delicate Oregon Albacore Tuna Sashimi with orange yogurt and tapioca scales and chips. The tapioca was cooked down with chili and cumin, and the two presentations of soft “eggs” and crispy scales gave us great textures of the soft melt in your mouth sashimi contrasting the crunch. This was paired with a crisp white wine, which I took a photo of the bottle but apparently the cameraphone was still “processing” even after the snap so all I have is a motion blur! I am trying to find out what it was. And what poor design is that to have the camera not have taken the photo but giving all other feedback like it has except for a processing text and a progress bar… GRR. The wine was delicious.

Helioterra Mourvedre 2011 from Columbia Valley Washington NFCA GREAT Kitchens Gluten-Free Dinner at Imperial. For the First Course, we enjoyed a refreshing delicate Oregon Albacore Tuna Sashimi with orange yogurt and tapioca scales and chips.

Next, the Entree Course was a Slow Roasted Breast of Veal with beef fat roasted sweet potatoes, bordelaise, smoked marrow butter, and grilled frisee, paired with a Helioterra Mourvedre 2011 from Columbia Valley Washington.

Helioterra Mourvedre 2011 from Columbia Valley Washington NFCA GREAT Kitchens Gluten-Free Dinner at Imperial. Entree Course was a Slow Roasted Breast of Veal with beef fat roasted sweet potatoes, bordelaise, smoked marrow butter, and grilled frisee, paired with a Helioterra Mourvedre 2011 from Columbia Valley Washington  NFCA GREAT Kitchens Gluten-Free Dinner at Imperial. Entree Course was a Slow Roasted Breast of Veal with beef fat roasted sweet potatoes, bordelaise, smoked marrow butter, and grilled frisee, paired with a Helioterra Mourvedre 2011 from Columbia Valley Washington NFCA GREAT Kitchens Gluten-Free Dinner at Imperial. Entree Course was a Slow Roasted Breast of Veal with beef fat roasted sweet potatoes, bordelaise, smoked marrow butter, and grilled frisee, paired with a Helioterra Mourvedre 2011 from Columbia Valley Washington NFCA GREAT Kitchens Gluten-Free Dinner at Imperial. Entree Course was a Slow Roasted Breast of Veal with beef fat roasted sweet potatoes, bordelaise, smoked marrow butter, and grilled frisee, paired with a Helioterra Mourvedre 2011 from Columbia Valley Washington

The Dessert Course was spectacular. It included this Milk Chocolate Icebox Cake with roasted banana, walnuts and toasted meringue, as well as macaroons plus little mini date and almond cakes. That Icebox cake was marvelous, and undeniable proof that you can have delicious and gluten-free food, even in commonly conceived courses like dessert which have traditionally been an area generalized that gluten-free versions are like rocks.

NFCA GREAT Kitchens Gluten-Free Dinner at Imperial. Milk Chocolate Icebox Cake with roasted banana, walnuts and toasted meringue NFCA GREAT Kitchens Gluten-Free Dinner at Imperial. Milk Chocolate Icebox Cake with roasted banana, walnuts and toasted meringue NFCA GREAT Kitchens Gluten-Free Dinner at Imperial, macaroons plus little mini date and almond cakes NFCA GREAT Kitchens Gluten-Free Dinner at Imperial, macaroons NFCA GREAT Kitchens Gluten-Free Dinner at Imperial, little mini date and almond cakes

The Fall tour continues with them in Seattle until Nov 1 (today), then off Nov 11-12 in San Francisco, and Nov 13-14 in LA, and more dates to come for the other cities!

To find out more:

  • National Foundation for Celiac Awareness (NFCA) for a celiac symptoms checklist as well as  helpful tools, guides and lists to help you live gluten-free or learn to be more aware of your gluten intake. The NFCA is a 501(c)(3) non-profit organization that drives diagnoses of celiac disease and other gluten-related disorders and improves quality of life for those on a lifelong gluten-free diet.  NFCA owns and operates GREAT Kitchens, a web-based gluten-free training program for foodservice professionals.
  • Jehangier Mehta and his restaurants in New York, Graffiti Food Wine Bar and Mehtaphor
  • Vitaly Paley and his restaurants Paley’s Place, Imperial, and Portland Penny Diner
  • Follow NFCA’s Gluten-Free Chef’s Table Tour and join the gluten-free conversation on Twitter through @CeliacAwareness and @jehangir_mehta or by tweeting #GFChefsTable or #GREATKitchens.

I should also plug in that this weekend, on November 2, if you want to find out more there is a  Healthy Living and Gluten Free Expo at the Salem Conference Center in downtown Salem that includes 9 expert speakers and over 50 vendors. You may also want to join the local Facebook group, Gluten Intolerance Group. There is also coming up on Nov 11-17 an online free Gluten Summit.

Chef Mehta and me at the NFCA GREAT Kitchens Gluten-Free Dinner at Imperial!
Disclosure: This meal was complimentary, but I will always provide my honest opinion and assessment of all products and experiences I may be given. The views and opinions expressed in this blog are entirely my own.

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Imperial: a dinner, 2 happy hours

August 21, 2013 by 2 Comments

After an evening at Bailey’s Taproom back in November last year, I asked F to try Imperial for dinner. Imperial by “Iron Chef – Radish”  winner Vitaly Paley had just opened in September, and features a revival of Northwest style plank cooking, as well as just Northwest cuisine in general.  It aims for breakfast lunch and dinner service while also being accessible to the general as it is part of the Hotel Lucia, and replaced the space previously occupied by Typhoon while Bo’s Restobar is now re-envisioned as the breakfast/lunch offering from Paley called Portland Penny Diner.

The atmosphere of Imperial seems reminiscent of the Oregon history museum mixed with the glamour of the fine dining from the 40-50s, which is not what I had pictured from the name. I suppose given that the Portland Penny Diner also is meant to reference the penny that decided this city’s name, the historical slant of the word Imperial is not about royalty but apparently Lewis and Clark peaceful progressive imperialism? Ah, wait, I see- it’s from the original name of the hotel that used to be at this location. How did that nugget of information get lost- you would think maybe there would be a photo of it by the front host stand, or something on the website. Anyway, moving right along…

When you first enter, you are greeted by a clean modern wall of wood and a host stand, and some antique chandeliers,  but then you see exposed pipes and bricks and a big ox head. Perhaps you may notice the wood paneling continued by the front dining area, but then it transitions bare pocked concrete pillars, and an accent in the middle of a dated yellow wallpaper boasting images of farm animal friends like pigs, chickens and cows along with the face of a pale white lady with a crown. In the back more brick is exposed as you approach the open kitchen with the wood fired oven. A medley of historical and modern boutique hotel trendy.

Imperial PDX, Vitaly Paley Imperial PDX, Vitaly Paley Imperial PDX, Vitaly Paley Imperial PDX, Vitaly Paley Imperial PDX, Vitaly Paley Imperial PDX, Vitaly Paley

So the perspective Paley has for Imperial is meant to reflect the concept that traditional dishes incorporate local ingredients and historical cooking techniques of the mix of peoples during those early days of the Pacific Northwest Territories. And given this, not surprising then that given the menu’s plank cooking premise from frontier days, the restaurant space centers around a wood oven and rotisserie as if this is a fancified version of an indoor campfire, although they aim to step it up by using planks from wine barrels.

For dinner during my first visit in November, we started out with the Soup Du Jour of cauliflower soup and a Kale and Raw Vegetable Salad with sunflower seed brittle and goat cheese dressing. Both plates were cleaned so nothing was left behind when it was time to pick up the finished starters. Yum.
Soup Du Jour of cauliflower soup, Imperial PDX, Vitaly Paley Kale and Raw Vegetable Salad with sunflower seed brittle and goat cheese dressing, Imperial PDX, Vitaly Paley

I wanted to order the organic roast chicken from their Wood-Fired Grill & Rotisserie section, but the server told me sadly they were out, so I picked out the second choice of Tails and Trotter Pork Secreto with romesco and grilled leeks. The pork itself was beautiful and cooked perfectly, but the  dish seemed incomplete. Don’t get me wrong- I appreciated that each piece of pork was tender and juicy. And I could detect the sweet smoke undercurrent of flavor that came from the pinot plank. It was a wonderful pork. But I still wanted more- be it more smoke, or some fresh ground pepper, something crunchy or or something to balance out the wonderful meat. The romesco added more sweetness, though I wish it had a bit of paprika for a little heat.

Maybe if it had a better accompaniment as the leek didn’t really offer anything at all for me. I didn’t realize that although this isn’t a steak restaurant, you have to order a la carte and pay for a side dish separately to round out your $25 entree- if only the waitress had mentioned it. I suppose I should have been observant enough to notice it after I saw you have to order bread service as its own starter dish.

The other entree was the Potlatch Pilaf Stuffed Poblano Peppers with rice pilaf, acorn squash, chestnuts, roasted shallots, and walnut cream, which was mushy in texture. But the smoked flavors of the peppers and the chestnuts were lovely and a complex and better than expected vegetarian option.
Tails and Trotter Pork Secreto with romesco and grilled leeks, Imperial PDX, Vitaly Paley Potlatch Pilaf Stuffed Poblano Peppers with rice pilaf, acorn squash, chestnuts, roasted shallots, and walnut cream, Imperial PDX, Vitaly Paley

When it came time for dessert, the one I had my eye on was also out already for the night, so we passed on a sweet ending for that visit. Our tab for what you see above plus one beer and tip- $80.

My next visit was in March, but this time I partitioned caloric room for cocktails at Imperial and came for happy hour. I started with a cocktail called “A Radish Walks into a Bar…” with ransom old tom gin, carpano antica vermouth, radish gastrique, lemon, and cracked peppercorn. This I adored, even trying to get the last dribbles despite the ridiculously large iceberg (however pretty it looked) in my glass. However, even I was willing to get ice on my face only so many times for the last drops. It made me appreciate the ice more as I sat at that bar and saw them pull out this huge coffee table sized slab of ice and hand carve pieces from it in order to make the ice that would be used in the cocktails.

A Radish Walks into a Bar cocktail, ransom old tom gin, carpano antica vermouth, radish gastrique, lemon, and cracked peppercorns, Imperial PDX, Vitaly Paley

The other cocktail, the Chef’s Breakfast with bacardi 8 year, becherovka, lime, falernum, and honey was nice and its herbaceous quality made me pretend it could pass off as a healthy drink, but didn’t wow me like the Radish Walks into a Bar.

cocktail of Chef's Breakfast with bacardi 8 year, becherovka, lime, falernum, and honey, Imperial PDX, Vitaly Paley

To soak up the alcohol, I had the Imperial Flat-top burger on Rye Brioche with lettuce, tomato, caramelized and pickled onions, sharp cheddar cheese, secret sauce, and a sqqueeee adorable Fry-Basket of Fries also with secret sauce. The fries were nice and crisp and not too greasy, a contrast to the very messy burger. And how cute is that fry basket.

Imperial Flat-top burger on Rye Brioche with lettuce, tomato, caramelized and pickled onions, sharp cheddar cheese, secret sauce, Fry-Basket of Fires with secret sauce, Imperial PDX, Vitaly Paley

A second happy hour in June gave me a chance to try the Sleight of Hand cocktail with pisco lillet rose, pamplemousse, flamed negroni mist. I blushed from the extra bartender attention as he flamed the negroni. All I have to show is the finished product.
Sleight of Hand cocktail with pisco lillet rose, pamplemousse, flamed negroni mist, Imperial PDX, Vitaly Paley Sleight of Hand cocktail with pisco lillet rose, pamplemousse, flamed negroni mist, Imperial PDX, Vitaly Paley

Meanwhile, for my happy hour eats, I went for the Parker House roll with whipped butter and sea salt and understood why it was worth paying the $1 for this soft, warm buttery bread. It is worth it.
Parker House roll with whipped butter and sea salt, Imperial PDX, Vitaly Paley Parker House roll with whipped butter and sea salt, Imperial PDX, Vitaly Paley

And I loved the salad I had, a happy hour salad of Grilled Romaine with cherry tomatoes, Israeli feta, salsa verde, with the grilled part adding just a hint of smokiness to the dish.
happy hour salad of Grilled Romaine with cherry tomatoes, Israeli feta, salsa verde, Imperial PDX, Vitaly Paley

There are other interesting cocktails on the menu, and I will eventually get that roast chicken! I’ve also heard they have an amazing brunch. I’ll have to report back again!

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