Chinese barbecue in Portland has generally been somewhat of an inside track – you had to know which place (and they were all different) for your crispy roast pork fix, your Cantonese roast duck, for good char siu. The locations for these Chinese BBQ treasures were out far from the Portland city core – often in strip malls in the East Portland (“New Chinatown” past SE 82nd) or Westside suburbs, from your Asian owned restaurant or grocery with non-descript storefronts to procure your goal protein. There is no central Chinatown that you would head towards like in New York, San Fran, Chicago, etc. where you explore a street of businesses looking for the tell tale hanging duck and pork on hooks in a window. Recently a joint venture from restaurateur Micah Camden (who has also brought Portland the famed Blue Star Donuts, Boxer Ramen, Super Deluxe, Little Chickpea, Bae’s Chicken, Rock Paper Fish, and formerly Little Big Burger) and lead by chef Steven Chin has opened. Chinese BBQ in Portland now has a very accessible, and very high quality, place that anyone and everyone can trust for some easy Chinese barbecue fix, with their venture YāYā Portland (Yā is duck in Mandarin).
Steven Chin’s background in Chinese barbecue started with a childhood in New York and with his grandparent’s grocery with a bbq station in Chinatown (a photo of his grandfather and store is featured on the YāYā Portland wall). Chinese BBQ was further refined with mentorship with his friend and legend Martin Yan, famously known for the Yan Can Cook show that I remember watching all the time, one of the few representations of a face like mine on TV back then. He has combined tradition from those learnings also with American business practices such that many American bbq places use where they prep and bbq the meats up to a certain level then finish based on the incoming orders.
The YāYā Portland storefront on NE Alberta Avenue is a takeout only operation, so no indoor seating or service, though there are some picnic tables outside under a shady tree and a patio covering overhead if you want to eat it immediately. You can order online for pickup from their website YāYā Portland, or via a few delivery apps. Chinese BBQ is not usually served hot, so this is perfect for grabbing to take home and can survive a delivery time window. Usually you buy Chinese barbecue meats by the pound but the orders from YāYā Portland already come on white rice, ready to eat.
Here’s a look at some of that Chinese barbecue in Portland upgrade from YāYā Portland I’m talking about – look at the quality thanks to using locally sourced meats like Mary’s free range ducks and chicken. The meats are less gristly or greasy, with the fat rendered into the flavors of the tender and juicy meat more then what you would usually find from your traditionally obtained Chinese restaurants or stores. The addition of those pickled veggies and sauces provide extra complimentary and contrasting flavors to enjoy with the meats, which are served on rice like protein heavy rice boxes. You can also order fried rice or scallion noodles, garlic greens, cabbage salad, wontons in chili oil, and egg rolls.
The standout YāYā Portland duck comes in half or whole sizes, served with duck sauce on white rice with pickled veggies, though I didn’t use much of that sauce, it’s not needed for the meat (feel free to enjoy it with fried rice or other rice – you may not want to add it to the rice underneath the duck either which is delicious with the duck juices…). I enjoyed how much meat is on the duck and how I didn’t find any tough dry parts on any piece.
Soya sauce chicken comes in half or whole and is marinated in house soya sauce, and served with that ginger garlic sauce that is very complimentary to add to the rice. This half portion I ate as my dinner entree all in one sitting, though could serve two with other dishes family style.
Char siu pork is thick cut bbq roasted pork. Like super thick cut baby. Yum. Another dish where the homemade housin sauce is an add in up the rice and you may only want a touch or none at all as you enjoy the flavors of that slow roasted meat.
Crispy pork belly doesn’t really need the spicy mustard or sweet and sour sauce either, or a only a minimal dab. This is the large order pictured, which is the perfect ratio of rice to meat I think. It wasn’t as crispy as I was hoping but the melt in your mouth deliciousness made up for it, and I am inclined to give them time to work on their execution through their initial opening weeks.
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I’m definitely looking forward to going back again or getting YāYā Portland delivered in the future. I’m sure you will see reviews from people complaining about price as if Asian food must inherently be cheap even though this is such high quality meat. And maybe it’s not completely traditional but Asian chefs shouldn’t have to be struck in history and not be able to add their own perspective either and conform to your view of what’s “real” , so FU if you reach for the “authentic” word in your negative review or compare that its not an exact replica of some other version. I can tell this is a huge labor of love and risk and putting himself out there for him to bring this to Portland and he deserves credit and appreciation for that, and the same patience as any new business trying to get its bearings and get into rhythm. Maybe the flavors at YāYā Portland are not 100% exactly what I remember from my childhood from chefs who even then had been doing bbq for decades – but they are still good. Also seriously the quality of meat is beyond those nostalgic food memories.
Do you think you would try YāYā Portland? Where do you get your chinese barbecue fix now in Portland?
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