Txoko Experience with Urdaneta

I was pretty excited when I heard that Urdaneta was bringing back an instance of Basque Supper Club with the theme of Txoko! Going to txokos with his grandfather had inspired Chef Javier Canteras to open Urdaneta and create Basque Supper Club. Now it was coming around full circle as the documentary ”The Txoko Experience: The Secret Culinary Space of the Basques”, along with scriptwriter, Marcela Garces, was making a West Coast premiere showing at Urdaneta. The restaurant was closed for this private event on a Sunday evening, and the night included watching the movie in the restaurant, and then enjoying a multi course dinner of Basque cuisine. Here’s a look at my Txoko Experience with Urdaneta.

Txoko (The “Tx” in Basque language is pronounced Ch, Cho-ko, with ch hard like the ch in in chocolate), is essentially a dining club that allows members to gather together in a space (often a restaurant kitchen and dining area) and cook and dine together outside their home, which are often apartments.

It’s more then just food though- the txoko is an escape from family to be with the community that only sees what you are good at cooking (or maybe you’re a good singer), regardless of what you do for your day job. It’s an environment of good food, good conversation, and apparently, also group singing. We didn’t sing at this dinner, but there was definitely the wonderful food and conversation and everyone attending and working was in excited, cheerful spirits.

Before the movie, we were greeted with a punch cocktail, and candles from rendered jamon fat were placed on the table. Shortly before the movie began (played on a screen in the back of the restaurant), the staff passed out bread that we could dip into those plates of once flickering candles and added an additional drizzle of sauce to the candles. Jamon fat candles that you could eat afterwards… this was the most romantic candlelight I have ever experienced.

We watched the hour long movie, which highlighted multiple chefs of Basque cuisine a la Chefs Table style, but also included noting Basque food specialties like wine, cheese, and seafood, and then letting us into the world of txokos. There was stunning shot after spectacular shot of the Basques Country that would make everyone and anyone put this as a travel destination bucket list. After the movie, we had a short Q&A with the scriptwriter Marcela Garces who was present, and I was also lucky that she was dining at my table so we got to hear additional information as the dinner progressed about what it was like getting into these kitchens during their 2 weeks of filming and conducting the interviews.

After all the eye candy of beautiful Basque cuisine from Michelin Star chefs that looked like art, but also the simple rustic Basque food that showcases the local ingredients only within a few miles radius, saying I was excited to eat some Basque food would be an understatement.

Here are all the courses we enjoyed

Amuse Bouche

A take on a croquette but also a squid dish cooked in squid ink here also with cauliflower black garlic puree and uni top over toasted bread

First

Txangurro, dungeness crab, avocado canelone, white asparagus emulsion, romesco, lemon bread crumbs
Paired with Ulibarri Artzaiak Txakolina, Bizkaiko 2014.

A really fun dish texturally, though this would be a them the whole evening, and the crisp white Basque wine was a great complement to the bright flavors of lemon and white asparagus and the lightness of the crab. I was trying to take such little bites to make it last.

Second

Kokotxas, halibut cheek, salsa verde, clams, crispy jamon, sieved egg, pimenton oil
 
Definitely an odd dish – the fish with the broth and clams and egg were definitely fun, and then I would get thrown by the salty flavors of the crispy jamon that almost had a dried seaweed texture to them!

Third

Sorbetea, txakoli-patxoran sorbet, basil, popcorn powder, pickled apple
Paired with Isastegi Basque Sidra

Holy moly what a palate cleanser with the strong flavors of licorice – thankfully the popcorn powder provided me with some relief to balance out some of that intense taste and provide once again a different texture of melt in your mouth, but in powder form instead of sorbet.

Fourth

Antxoa, fried anchovy, boquerones, vegetable purees, alioli

This was the most beautiful dish of the night – with each vegetable puree being a fun game as we at the table tried to identify what vegetable it was first from the color and then after trying it, and then trying it with the anchovy (either the fried or one in vinegar/olive oil aka the boquerones). Notice that underneath the fried anchovy is also the alioli so it was like a mini fish and chip too!

Fifth

Haragla eta Talo, sidra braised chorizo, housemade morcilla, oxtail, spareribs, jamon jus, fried eggs, talo
Paired with Gorrondona Txakolina Tinto, Bizkaiko 2016 – usually a white wine, but this is a red one so pretty special, with light berry to compliment the meat.

I’d never heard of talo before, a kind of Basque tortilla. A Basque native at our table was over the moon that talo was being served – it was a super nostalgic food item that is hard to find as the recipe is very intensive but makes large quantities – best for big parties like these! This meat heavy dish of chorizo, morcilla, oxtail, spare rib, and fried egg with the talo was very gut busting for me but I tried a little bit of everything – my favorite I think was the oxtail with jamon jus, and close second the morcilla.

Sixth

Tostada, “milk pudding”, intxaursalsa ice cream, strawberry meringue, tarragon almond crumble
Paired with Valdespino Isabel Cream Sherry NV

The “milk pudding” is the tofu looking square you see on the end! I usually don’t like desserts because they are overly sweet but this was a perfect mix of some sweetness but not too much, and you can see how varied the textures are.

The crisps of strawberry meringue brought out stronger berry flavor then I had guessed which I really enjoyed nibbling on along with the intxaursalsa ice cream, which his a traditional Basque dessert with flavors of walnut and cinnamon and sugar – like the gourmet version of cinnamon toast crunch cereal in all the best ways.

At the same time I enjoyed contrasting the flavors of the ice cream with the more savory tarragon almond crumble … so many different combinations of flavors could be created in this dish, and every combination was a winner. So fun!!!

This was a great food adventure, and although they have their hands full currently with the success of Urdaneta, keep an eye on on anytime Basque Supper Club may  make an appearance – and in the meantime make sure you stop by Urdaneta to see what may be new depending on the season in terms of their menu.

Although the Basque area is often associated with Spain, the Basque Country has its own language, traditions, and foods different from what you may normally see at Spanish restaurants, so is very different from say Ataula and Can Font (which tries to showcase Catalan cuisine, another separate area of Spain) here in Portland, or the more traditional Spanish tapas you will find at Toro Bravo and Bar Casa Vale. I’m a fan of all these restaurants, but trying to help explain what makes Urdaneta unique. Come try it and tell me what you think!

What movie would you love to watch and then have the food in the movie right after watching?