Pépé Le Moko Portland – First Looks

February 24, 2014 by 7 Comments

A little glimpse at some of the offerings at Pépé Le Moko Portland… which finally opened on Valentine’s Day, so at the time of this visit was just 1 week old.

S and I got there around 4:30 or so on Friday (after our lunch at Wildwood I just covered). It is a small, little unassuming front, with only the door and curtained window and simple window sign to hint at its location. When you first glance in, you see a tiny little counter where oysters on ice glistened, and where sandwich and chip snacks are put together. When you open the door, you are greeted by a little podium, where the hostess inquires about your party size.

Doors of Pépé Le Moko in Portland Doors of Pépé Le Moko in Portland

We were told the table would not be ready for another 5-10 minutes. Since there really is no room to stand and wait inside for more than 2 people, and it is pretty tight quarters between the hostess and the sandwich man, we opted for a 2 block walkaround, and gave her my phone number for her to text us when our table would be ready.

As we walked away, I got my first text from Pépé Le Moko letting me know they had my correct number and they would text me again when they were ready for us. It also provided a neat link to a No Wait app which shows you where you are in line. I like their thoughtfulness already.

Ok, so even though we were full from lunch, despite trying to burn some calories by walking from NW 21st to Nordstrom for some shoe shopping and then back here, my eyes are always hungry. So maybe we went and peered at the menus at Lardo and Grassa and walked back, and exactly 10 minutes from when we started our walk, I got the text telling me it was time. If it had been a little longer I might have been tempted by Dirty Fries. As we walked by the Clyde Common bar, we saw it was already bustling with Friday happy hour patrons.

The menu at Pépé Le Moko is small, giving the impression that it is carefully curated, though they do have a full bar so can make your requests as well. The curators, if you didn’t know, are the well known Nate Tilden of Olympic Provisions/Clyde Common/Richmond Bar and Jeffrey Morgenthaler of Clyde Common. The Pépé Le Moko Food Menu include some small bar snacks, oysters, and Bocadillos, which are little sandwiches- I did not order any this visit, but they looked to be about 4 inches long.
Pépé Le Moko cocktail menu Pépé Le Moko Food Menu- snacks

The feel once you come down the stairs is not surprisingly subterranean given its basement/bunker location. It is dark, mysterious, moody- even a bit dirty and foreign in a sexy way, reminiscent of Casablanca.

Apparently the name Pépé Le Moko is inspired by a movie in that time period (1937)- Pépé Le Moko is the name of a gangster from Paris who hides out in Casbah, Algeria. And that’s all I know about the movie from IMBD and Wikipedia. So the fact the atmosphere evoked that feeling even before I was able to google Pépé Le Moko should be considered a success.

The decorations are sparse, and the seating small- the whole place probably only can fit only 40-50 max,  with very dim lighting. I did notice the light fixture on the wall in our lil booth had an outlet… Very convenient if my phone needed a charge and I had my charger. 

The spotlights are on the bartenders, which seems about right.
Bartender at Pépé Le Moko preparing a cocktail

We started with the cocktails Hotel Nacional Special with aged rum, lime, apricot brandy, pineapple gomme and bitters. I went with the Amaretto Sour with classic amaretto, overproof bourbon,  lemon and egg white. These were both surprisingly delicate,  and we found ourselves sipping them gently to savor them.
Cocktails at Pépé Le Moko, Hotel Nacional Special with aged rum, lime, apricot brandy, pineapple gomme and bitters and Amaretto Sour with classic amaretto, overproof bourbon, lemon and egg white

We went for another round. I ordered the Grasshopper,  knowing this was my dessert before it was time to go home. Crafted from Cremes de menthe et cacao, vanilla ice cream, Fernet Branca and sea salt. This made me feeling pretty fancy and pampered, as happy as a kid getting a sundae, when it was served up literally on a silver platter with a charming paper straw.
Cocktails at Pépé Le Moko, Grasshopper crafted from Cremes de menthe et cacao, vanilla ice cream, Fernet Branca and sea salt

The biggest hit though was the Espresso Martini,  described simply as Stumptown Coffee extract,  Kahlua, overproof vodka and lemon oil. Sounds straightforward and familiar,  like any other espresso martini you encountered in your past. But Damn. It is the best Expresso Martini Ever. S even ordered a second one. Do Not Miss This. It’s seriously jaw dropping how this is leagues above any other espresso martini in history.
Cocktails at Pépé Le Moko: Espresso Martini, described simply as Stumptown Coffee extract, Kahlua, overproof vodka and lemon oil

I regretfully had to raincheck on trying any of the food here and more cocktails, but I hope to visit again soon and see how it is shaping up. They are open everyday 4pm-2am.

My first looks and impression were very positive though. The cocktails are high quality, so I didn’t blink at the price- they seem par for the course with what I would expect at an urban bar. It seems a perfect way to start or end a night, but I am unsure whether you should plan a meal or a group more than 4 here, because it just seems so small. Well, more to come!

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Recap of my Final Wildwood Meals

February 22, 2014 by 1 Comment

I think I stated most of what I hoped to in my last Goodbye Wildwood post. So this is more of a food photo memories post of the last dinner and the last lunch at Wildwood Restaurant I had this week. They are closing on Tuesday February 25, so there are still a few days of service left if you want to try to catch a lunch or dinner with the Wildwood Restaurant Team. So without further ado, my simple recap of my final Wildwood meals, first dinner on Wednesday and then lunch on Friday.

Dinner at the Chef’s Counter at Wildwood Restaurant started with the cocktail No Ordinary Rabbit made with temperance trader bourbon, renig dag aquavit, carrot juice, ginger, lemon
Dinner at the Chef's Counter at Wildwood Restaurant with the cocktail no ordinary rabbit made with temperance trader bourbon, renig dag aquavit, carrot juice, ginger, lemon Dinner at the Chef's Counter at Wildwood Restaurant with the cocktail no ordinary rabbit made with temperance trader bourbon, renig dag aquavit, carrot juice, ginger, lemon Dinner at the Chef's Counter at Wildwood Restaurant with the cocktail no ordinary rabbit made with temperance trader bourbon, renig dag aquavit, carrot juice, ginger, lemon

It was an honor to watch the kitchen running on this busy night, as everyone was coming out to say goodbye by dining at Wildwood one last time.
Wildwood Restaurant open kitchen Wildwood Restaurant open kitchen

After an amuse bouche of of coconut mint gelatin, I was on to my next cocktail, the Nice Looking Shrubbery that looked like I was in a vampire movie but actually I was drinking aria portland dry‎ gin, combier orange, vida mescal, beet juice, regan’s orange bitters, lemon.
Wildwood Restaurant amuse bouche of of coconut mint gelatin Wildwood Restaurant amuse bouche of of coconut mint gelatin Wildwood Restaurant cocktail, the Nice Looking Shrubbery of aria portland dry‎ gin, combier orange, vida mescal, beet juice, regan’s orange bitters, lemon.

I took my time with my first course of brick oven roasted mussels with bacon, leeks, cider,‎ fried sage, crème fraîche, toasted baguette. I was not ashamed to use a spoon once I had freed the mussels from their shells to eat this like a soup, including using the toasted baguette to sop up sauce. The bowl was completely empty and dry when I returned it.
Wildwood Restaurant starter of brick oven roasted mussels with bacon, leeks, cider,‎ fried sage, crème fraîche, toasted baguette Wildwood Restaurant starter of brick oven roasted mussels with bacon, leeks, cider,‎ fried sage, crème fraîche, toasted baguette

For my main dish, I enjoyed every last bite of the clay oven roasted pork chop with grilled leek pudding, clams, foie gras butter.
Wildwood Restaurant dinner entree of clay oven roasted pork chop with grilled leek pudding, clams, foie gras butter Wildwood Restaurant dinner entree of clay oven roasted pork chop with grilled leek pudding, clams, foie gras butter

I ended the night with the warmest of hugs from Wildwood, the cocktail of Unladen Swallow with green chartreuse, julianne’s spiced hot cocoa powder, house made combier orange marshmallow.

I took a half day on Friday so I could come to lunch. It seemed fitting that since my first meal was at Wildwood, so would my last. Since I didn’t need to worry about returning to work, I started with a cocktail, the Ni! I was lucky enough to get the very last one. It’s made with big bottom bourbon, campari, pierre ferand dry curaçao, hammer and tongs l’afrique, barrel aged fee bitters. And my final cocktail, the Blood and Sand with dewars, cherry heering, sweet vermouth, orange juice.
Wildwood Cocktail of Ni! It's made with big bottom bourbon, campari, pierre ferand dry curaçao, hammer and tongs l’afrique, barrel aged fee bitters. Wildwood Restaurant, my final cocktail, the Blood and Sand with dewars, cherry heering, sweet vermouth, orange juice.

We had very grumbly rumbly stomachs by the time we got there for our late lunch after our office escape, so dived hungrily into an order of ken’s bakery bread with trapini sea salt and bamboo leaf salt on pats of butter and house made country pâté with pickles, lentil cracker, grain mustard. My dining friend S had a lunch of tandoori roasted chicken romaine salad with creamy garlic dressing, pickled chiles, grilled onions, naan.
Wildwood Restaurant lunch starters of ken’s bakery bread with trapini sea salt and bamboo leaf salt on pats of butter Wildwood Restaurant lunch starter of house made country pâté with pickles, lentil cracker, grain mustard Wildwood Restaurant Lunch entree of tandoori roasted chicken romaine salad with creamy garlic dressing, pickled chiles, grilled onions, naan

I was super pleased with the final Wildwood sandwich I would have, dustin’s salame sandwich with rosemary focaccia, pickled chile cream cheese, butter lettuce, tapenade, shaved onion, and mixed greens in a miso vinaigrette with spicy‎ cashews. Why isn’t pickled chili cream cheese more common, it satisfies 3 great tastes in one!

Thanks for all the memories and deliciousness Wildwood!

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Goodbye Wildwood Restaurant

February 20, 2014 by 10 Comments

It was with a sad sigh that I read on social media on  on Tuesday that Wildwood Restaurant would be closing in 1 week (on February 25).

When I was thinking of moving to Portland in 2007, I was not sure I would like it. I was born and raised in Chicago and lived there all my life- the bustling metropolis with its diversity and food scene were something I was very attached to. When I thought of Portland from my previous visits (usually for a long weekend to visit F, as we were only friends then and not romantically linked), I remember it being the opposite- not very diverse, and the food couldn’t compare to the level at Chicago. At the time, a visit to Rogue Brewing and a meal at Edgefield or Kennedy School McMenamins were the highlights.

By 2007, F and I had been dating for a while, and he had tried living in Chicago but still longed to return to Portland. Instead of a weekend, we planned a one week trip for me to see what Portland had to offer.

We were shocked at the changes we saw when we came- the Pearl District had come out of nowhere, and Pioneer Square was no longer hippie/transit central (at at least there was a lot less). I picked out the restaurants to try out, and Wildwood was one of them. It opened my eyes and tastebuds to what Northwest cuisine meant, and I loved it. Portland had promise after all. I moved here a year later.

  
Photos above by Sunpech Photography

Since moving here, I’ve dined at Wildwood many times for lunch and dinner. It is one of the first places that comes to mind to recommend to anyone, particularly out of town visitors who are new to Portland. When my in-laws, including my mother-in-law who is afraid of flying, came to visit, this was at the top of my list of where I wanted to take them. I tried to take my parents too but the available reservation time was too late in the evening, so I shrugged it off, thinking “next visit”. I’m sad I won’t be able to take them now.

Wildwood is of course not the only restaurant that uses local seasonal ingredients, but they do so in a perfect blend of classic and new by including some less utilized local ingredients or in new combinations. The atmosphere is both refined and casual, classy but not pretentious. The booths offer cushy private spaces, while the chef’s counter gives you a front row seat to the rhythm and magic of their open kitchen. They changed up their menu frequently so it was also an adventure of discovery to see what they had now with any visit. 

Here are a few food memories (I had a lot to choose from, but didn’t want to go overboard with this post!) that I wanted to highlight of memorable food moments at Wildwood for me. This is where it pays off that I’ve been photographing food for so long to help me remember, since visuals help spark memories for me of that week of discovery.

From that decisive, impressive Lunch at Wildwood that gave me faith in Portland’s food scene in 2007:
Crispy duck confit with microgreens and oranges and a sprinkle of almonds.
From a Lunch at Wildwood PDX: Crispy duck confit with microgreens and oranges and a sprinkle of almonds
Chestnut ravioli with roasted d’anjou pears, cider brown butter and almonds. We both really liked this concept of a fruity sauce on the pasta rather then a tomato-based or cream sauce.
From a Lunch at Wildwood PDX: Chestnut ravioli with roasted d’anjou pears, cider brown butter and almonds
House cured ham (it was juicy!) and gruyere and grilled onion sandwich with house made potato chips. It sound simple, but there was something about how this still tasted different and unique from Chicago, something so very Portland- I would say it’s the taste of the locality here.
From a Lunch at Wildwood PDX: House cured ham (it was juicy!) and gruyere and grilled onion sandwich with house made potato chips

Another Lunch – for a while, I was part of a Lunch Club with a few coworkers, until our group got broken up by too many reorganizations and cubicle moves and changes of managers and layoffs. They were among the first friends I made when I moved here, and the first where I revealed I had a food blog and wasn’t embarrassed to pull out my camera to take photos of food.
An appetizer of puree of butternut squash soup’s depth of flavor was elevated by the guajillo creme fraiche and toasted pumpkin seeds
Wildwood PDX Lunch: an appetizer of puree of butternut squash soup's depth of flavor was elevated by the guajillo creme fraiche and toasted pumpkin seeds
Braised cattail creek lamb stuffed crepes with carrot puree, sauteed lacinato kale, frisee, almonds, goat cheese and minted meyer lemon yogurt. The picture pretty much sums it up, with all those textures and all those tastes on the human tongue of salt, sweet, sour, hints of bitter and comforting savory were blending together here
Wildwood PDX Lunch: Braised cattail creek lamb stuffed crepes with carrot puree, sauteed lacinato kale, frisee, almonds, goat cheese and minted meyer lemon yogurt

I have a blog entry about the Wildwood and Breakside Brewery Beer Dinner I enjoyed in 2012, but I wanted to highlight this particular food and beer pairing: Pastrami pork belly éclair spring onion, pickled chile cream cheese icing paired with Newport Summer Ale. I think I could have had 3 or 4 of these. Wildwood for a while was doing a sublime series of food and beer pairing dinners.
Wildwood and Breakside Beer Pairing Dinner: pastrami pork belly éclair spring onion, pickled chile cream cheese icing paired with newport summer ale

Oh, and the fabulous cocktails at the bar. Wildwood has/had 🙁 an amazing bar and craft cocktails using seasonal ingredients and local distilleries. I don’t have as many photos of these, but I did have a couple:
Wildwood cocktail of Oh Snap! Tanqueray, cointreau, mint tincture, lemon, and sugar snap peas puree
Wildwood cocktail of Oh Snap! Tanqueray, cointreau, mint tincture, lemon, and sugar snap peas puree
Wildwood Cocktail of The Naughty Kitty with pimm’s, india lemongrass, lime and strawberry puree
Wildwood Cocktail of The Naughty Kitty with pimm's, india lemongrass, lime and strawberry puree

The cocktail “An Apple a Day” was made with calvados, tuaca, fresh lemon, egg white, rosemary, and apple gastrique.
Wildwood PDX Cocktail of An Apple a Day was made with calvados, tuaca, fresh lemon, egg white, rosemary, and apple gastrique

Below is not my photos, but that of my brother of Sunpech Photography when I took him on a Forktown Food Tour of the Alphabet District while he was visiting me.
Spicy martini using crème de pêche and New Deal Hot Monkey chili vodka (the name eludes me, sorry!)
Wildwood PDX Cocktail of a Spicy martini using crème de pêche and New Deal Hot Monkey chili vodka

I will miss you Wildwood, and I shake my fist at how the lease negotiations did not work out. But best of luck to everyone there as they go forth on their new endeavors. If you could pick a new location for your place closer to my home, that would be cool too. 🙂

There will be one more post- I was able to eat there for dinner last night, but I would like to squeeze in one more, a lunch so that my first and last meals at Wildwood Restaurant will be a lunch.

Is there a restaurant in Portland that holds a lot of memories and meaning for you?

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January Lobster at Brasserie Montmartre

January 29, 2014 by 3 Comments

During the month of January, Brasserie Montmartre has been bringing Maine Lobster options at dinner every evening as part of a Crustacean Celebration. I am a big fan of lobster- here in the Northwest we tend to lean more towards crab, so I was excited to learn of January Lobster at Brasserie Montmartre and jumped at the opportunity when my schedule and wallet aligned.
During the month of January, Brasserie Montmartre has been bringing Maine Lobster options at dinner every evening.

During my visit, I went with the Butter Poached Maine Lobster Tail with Lobster Mashed Potatoes, Broccoli Rabe, and Sauce Americaine. It was no surprise that the lobster thrives in its other natural habitat besides the sea. That other natural place for lobsters to be is in butter, of course.

During the month of January, Brasserie Montmartre has been bringing Maine Lobster options at dinner every evening. This is the menu one of the nights (Jan 22) During the month of January, Brasserie Montmartre has been bringing Maine Lobster options at dinner every evening. This entree is the Butter Poached Maine Lobster Tail with Lobster Mashed Potatoes, Broccoli Rabe, and Sauce Americaine

I had to dash as I had another engagement immediately after, but that didn’t slow me down from enjoying first a cocktail of the Gorge Cocktail with apple-cinnamon infused whiskey, pear puree, lime, simple syrup.
Brasserie Montmartre cocktail of the Gorge Cocktail with apple-cinnamon infused whiskey, pear puree, lime, simple syrup Brasserie Montmartre cocktail of the Gorge Cocktail with apple-cinnamon infused whiskey, pear puree, lime, simple syrup
I was really pleased when some complimentary warm rolls with butter and salt came to the table. It was a relief to warm my cold fingers with these soft buttery delights. I was also surprised by the lovely Amuse Bouche of carrot ginger soup with vegetable stock, cauliflower for texture, hazelnut for crunch.
Brasserie Montmartre warm rolls and butter with salt Brasserie Montmartre Amuse Bouche of carrot ginger soup with vegetable stock, cauliflower for texture, hazelnut for crunch

There are only two dinner services left it seems, but I can still make at least one more dinner tomorrow night before my work call. One more chance of trying another lobster at Brasserie Montmartre!

Which do you prefer, lobster or crab?

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Tilt Restaurant in the Pearl

January 10, 2014 by 5 Comments

In December, Tilt Restaurant– previously its only location was on Swan Island- opened in the Pearl District at NW Everett and 13th in a former industrial building. This location is much larger than the original, and includes a restaurant portion as well as a bar area. Their philosophy of “Handcrafted Food and Drink” that features burgers, biscuits, beer and cocktails “Built for the American Workforce” seems right at home in the space with concrete floors and walls, exposed piping, and large planks of wood with stools that serve as communal dining areas, although there are also a dozen booths and an area in the bar back area that has some cushioned benches around a fireplace and by the ping pong table.
Tilt Restaurant, Pearl District location in Portland Tilt Restaurant, Pearl District location in Portland  Tilt Restaurant, Pearl District location in Portland Tilt Restaurant, Pearl District location in Portland

When you first enter, you are greeted by the espresso counter (serving Ristretto Roasters), and you walk past a large pastry case showcasing their pies, to where you will be ordering your eats. You are then given a pager to let you know when to pick up your food – it’s self-service here. If you go to the right, towards the wall with the Swan Island pin-up you will enter the bar area. There, they have a dozen cocktail options, 8 draft beers plus 1 draft cider and 1 draft house sarsaparilla, almost a dozen canned local beers, half a dozen local wines, and the well is beautifully stocked, including 100 whiskeys. Happy hour starts at 3 and goes to 6, offering $3 draft beers and $2 off cocktails, and $6 wine pours.

Tilt Restaurant, Pearl District location in Portland Tilt Restaurant, Pearl District location in Portland

You should definitely check out some of bar manager Nick Keane’s cocktails. If his name sounds familiar, he was previously dealing amazing flavors at Parish, and has participated in several cocktail mixology competitions. Similar the cocktail menu at Parish, there is a classic section and a seasonal section, but with Tilt there are no longer the confines of a Cajun perspective to the restaurant.

My friend started out with the cocktail that she had texted me at 10am earlier that day excited about: the 2nd Amendment cocktail, with rum, aperol, lemon, cinnamon, bitters. Nick told us this drink was inspired from his time when he was trying to open a bar I believe in the Caribbean… and this drink definitely transports me there with its smooth flavors of rum and fruitiness that to me are reminiscent of a Bahama Mama but without the obvious punch of coconut and doesn’t cross the line to sweetness which you normally associate with tropical cocktails. And how beautiful is this?
Tilt Restaurant handcrafted cocktail of the 2nd Amendment, with rum, aperol, lemon, cinnamon, bitters

I love egg white drinks – I love the fluffyness of the texture in beverage form. It’s as fancy and indulgent to me as champagne, but tastes so much better. And then when I saw Applejack… sold! This cocktail is The Pie Break, with applejack, lemon, Don’s Spice #2, egg whites. I would order this again in a heartbeat with its refreshing clean flavors of bright apple and citrus.
Tilt Restaurant handcrafted cocktail of the The Pie Break, with applejack, lemon, Don's Spice #2, egg whites

For eats, my friend went with the Island Trucker and shared large original beer battered house fries that we could not stop eating. The Island Trucker burger is one of their 10 signature burgers, which offers original toppings combinations. In this case, the Island Trucker includes their fresh ground, 100% natural, local chuck patty, topped then with house baked honey cured ham, beer battered onion rings, grilled pineapple, house recipe teriyaki sauce, swiss cheese, lettuce, mayo on their house recipe bun.
Tilt Restaurant, burger Island Trucker includes their fresh ground, 100% natural, local chuck patty, topped then with house baked honey cured ham, beer battered onion rings, grilled pineapple, house recipe teriyaki sauce, swiss cheese, lettuce, mayo on their house recipe bun. Also their beer battered house fries in large

I went with the Carne Jefe for a bit of spiciness, as it is that same patty and bun but with the toppings of jalapenos, sliced avocado, cilantro, lettuce, tomato, thin-shaved onions, monterey cheese, mayo, and fresh squeezed lime. I was loving the fresh squeezed lime touch that added some acidic bite to the creamy avocado and cheese and bits of fire from the jalapenos. I knew this burger wasn’t going to be quite as tall/stacked and impressive as several of the other Tilt burgers, but I was getting my calories from liquids today.
Tilt handcrafted burger of Carne Jefe with fresh ground, 100% natural, local chuck patty, topped of jalapenos, sliced avocado, cilantro, lettuce, tomato, thin-shaved onions, monterey cheese, mayo, and fresh squeezed lime on their house recipe bun

Along with my Carne, I had another cocktail, Modern Times, with fernet, sarsaparilla, lemon, cream. Nick explained this drink was inspired by New Orleans’ Gin Fizz, but with the important upgrade of carbonated water with their house sarsaparilla. This went down WAY too easy. The drink has no ice so be mindful to enjoy it before it gets warm, but that was no problem whatsover with me. Way too easy to drink.
Tilt Restaurant handcrafted cocktail of the Modern Times, with fernet, sarsaparilla, lemon, cream

I finally wrapped up with satisfying my curiosity when I saw that one of their signature cocktails was ON TAP. It is indeed as I watched him fill the cocktail glass from a tap before the lemon twist over the glass to just add a bit of lemon oil.  The cocktail packed quite a punch: the Seelbach, with Bulleit Rye, Cointreau, Bitters and Bubbles.
The Tilt bar had this on tap!! One of the signature cocktails, the Seelbach, with Bulleit Rye, Cointreau, Bitters and Bubbles

Overall, I had a great visit. I admit the burger patty was not as juicy as I was hoping for, but I would like to try their Freebird, which boasts a buttermilk dredged, golden fried chicken, and also their Blue Collar biscuits which are served all day. And, I only got to taste some of the fabulous cocktail menu… You may be coming here for blue collar homey burgers and biscuits. But don’t leave without trying a cocktail.

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