Portland Food Adventures Ben Bettinger at Simpatica

If you have never heard of it, Portland Food Adventures is this amazing concept. The organizer of the events, Chris Angelus, founded PFA with the idea that for one price, you can have multiple food adventures.

The kickoff food adventure is a multiple course dinner at a restaurant in which every course is paired with a beverage, and the chef will come out to chat with the group about the menu, his restaurant, and possibly more. It is meant as a much more interactive experience to learn  about the people and philosophy behind the food then just dining at the restaurant. Then, the food adventures continue when you are given an envelope of gift certificates to try some of that particular chef’s favorite and recommended places to eat and drink in Portland!

Last week on February 5 I attended the latest in the series, A Portland Food Adventures wiith Chef Ben Bettinger , who currently has the role of Executive Chef at Laurelhurst Market. Along with Chef Ben’s move (he was previously at Imperial) comes craft cocktail man Kevin Ludwig, who provided pairings for the food that included cocktails as well as wine for the evening’s PFA.

From left to right, Chef Ben Bettinger, cocktail man Kevin Ludwig, and Portland Food Adventure/PFA founder Chris Angelus
From left to right, Chef Ben Bettinger, cocktail man Kevin Ludwig, and Portland Food Adventure/PFA founder Chris Angelus

The move to Laurelhurst Market is a reunion for Ben and Kevin as they had worked together to found Beaker and Flask and earned Willamette Week’s 2009 Restaurant of the Year a mere few months after opening. Laurelhurst Market is actually also now a Paley’s reunion special because not only have Ben and Kevin done stints at Paley’s Place, but so has the recently announced Patrick McKee who has joined in as sous chef. The news of Kevin and Patrick joining Ben’s party have only come out in the past 2 months, so many guests of the PFA including myself were looking to see a preview and insight on where these gentlemen think they will go with Laurelhurst Market.
From left to right, cocktail man Kevin Ludwig, Chef Ben Bettinger

The PFA event was held at Simpatica Dining Hall, which is co-owned by Laurelhurst Market’s David Kreifels. The benefit of this is that we had a private space all to ourselves.
Simpatica Dining Hall, set up for the Portland Food Adventure February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig dinner Simpatica Dining Hall, set up for the Portland Food Adventure February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig dinner Simpatica Dining Hall, set up for the Portland Food Adventure February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig dinner  Simpatica Dining Hall, set up for the Portland Food Adventure February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig dinner

Chris very carefully sets the table seating chart and labors over making sure everyone will enjoy their tablemates’ company as if each of these PFA events was a Rehearsal Dinner for a wedding and you are a dear friend that he wants to make sure meets other cool people.

Demonstrating more organization then some dinner events I have attended in Portland, the PFA events always have a printed menu. It’s great as it is a listing of all the courses and pairings so you know everything you are about to enjoy and can look forward to for the evening, you can take the menu back as a keepsake so you can remember all the deliciousness you just had, and possibly look for certain items if you choose to dine again at the chef’s restaurant.
Menu for the Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall Menu for the Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall

Thanks to our private dining room, we started out with a 30 minute cocktail hour where everyone got to mingle and meet other PFA dinner guests. Smoked Salmon Rillette with Fennel and Citrus on Crostini were passed as a welcoming first bite.
Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall, started off with a little cocktail mingling with Grounded For Life by Kevin Ludwig and a smoked salmon rillette on crostini Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall, started off with a little cocktail mingling with Grounded For Life by Kevin Ludwig and a smoked salmon rillette on crostini Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall, started off with a little cocktail mingling with Grounded For Life by Kevin Ludwig and a smoked salmon rillette on crostini Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall, started off with a little cocktail mingling with Grounded For Life by Kevin Ludwig and a smoked salmon rillette on crostini Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall, started off with a little cocktail mingling with Grounded For Life by Kevin Ludwig and a smoked salmon rillette on crostini Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall, started off with a little cocktail mingling with Grounded For Life by Kevin Ludwig and a smoked salmon rillette on crostini Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall, started off with a little cocktail mingling with Grounded For Life by Kevin Ludwig and a smoked salmon rillette on crostini

Kevin Ludwig served up the cocktail Grounded For Life composed of Crater Lake Pepper Vodka (this vodka is infused with 5 different sweet and hot peppers), Cointreau, Fresh Celery Juice, Lime in a glass with a salted rim. I thought this drink was incredibly refreshing – it’s not spicy, more a balance of sweet and sour. I’ll also pretend with all its vegetables that it’s healthy and I don’t want to hear anything to the contrary.
Kevin Ludwig served up Grounded For Life composed of Crater Lake Pepper Vodka (this vodka is infused with 5 different sweet and hot peppers), Cointreau, Fresh Celery Juice, Lime in a glass with a salted rim Kevin Ludwig served up Grounded For Life composed of Crater Lake Pepper Vodka (this vodka is infused with 5 different sweet and hot peppers), Cointreau, Fresh Celery Juice, Lime in a glass with a salted rim Kevin Ludwig served up Grounded For Life composed of Crater Lake Pepper Vodka (this vodka is infused with 5 different sweet and hot peppers), Cointreau, Fresh Celery Juice, Lime in a glass with a salted rim Kevin Ludwig served up Grounded For Life composed of Crater Lake Pepper Vodka (this vodka is infused with 5 different sweet and hot peppers), Cointreau, Fresh Celery Juice, Lime in a glass with a salted rim

Eventually, we sat down in our assigned places and were treated to a Coffee Rubbed Beef Carpaccio with Oregon truffles, Grana Padano, and Pickled Onions, which were paired with 2013 Schloss Gobelsbuerg Gruner Veltliner from Austria.
Portland Food Adventures dinner with Chef Ben Bettinger 2/05/2015, Coffee Rubbed Beef Carpaccio with Oregon truffles, Grana Padano, and pickled onions, which were paired with 2013 Schloss Gobelsbuerg Gruner Veltliner from Austria Portland Food Adventures dinner with Chef Ben Bettinger 2/05/2015, Coffee Rubbed Beef Carpaccio with Oregon truffles, Grana Padano, and pickled onions, which were paired with 2013 Schloss Gobelsbuerg Gruner Veltliner from Austria Portland Food Adventures dinner with Chef Ben Bettinger 2/05/2015, Coffee Rubbed Beef Carpaccio with Oregon truffles, Grana Padano, and pickled onions, which were paired with 2013 Schloss Gobelsbuerg Gruner Veltliner from Austria Portland Food Adventures dinner with Chef Ben Bettinger 2/05/2015, Coffee Rubbed Beef Carpaccio with Oregon truffles, Grana Padano, and pickled onions, which were paired with 2013 Schloss Gobelsbuerg Gruner Veltliner from Austria

Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig as well as Chris Angelus welcomed us with a little introduction to themselves, with how the menu we were reading came about as a demonstration of the celebration of meat they are doing with Laurelhurst Market as well as influences from the past Beaker and Flask. They promised to overwhelm us.
Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall

We were then treated to the incredible dish of Pan-seared Veal Sweetbread, Creamed Kale, Pickled Yellow Foot Chanterelles, and Sweet Onion Agrodolce which were a fun study in really different flavors from each individual component on the dish and trying to combine them together. This was paired with Kevin’s Norwegian Negroni cocktail with Krogstad Aquavit, Cynar, Sweet Vermouth, and Orange Oil.
Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall Pan-seared Veal Sweetbread, creamed kale, pickled Yellow Foot Chanterelles, and Sweet Onion Agrodolce course at Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall

You can see what good spirits everyone was in already as we were poured bubbly in the form of Cantinae Di Clari C Sparkling Rose from Italy. This was to be paired with Grilled Pork Cheeks with Pickled Octopus, Braised Peppers and Onions, and Grilled Bread and Aioli. We’re not even at the main course yet.
Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall Grilled Pork Cheeks with pickled octopus, braised peppers and onions, and grilled bread and aioli course at Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall Grilled Pork Cheeks with pickled octopus, braised peppers and onions, and grilled bread and aioli course at Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall Grilled Pork Cheeks with pickled octopus, braised peppers and onions, and grilled bread and aioli course at Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall Grilled Pork Cheeks with pickled octopus, braised peppers and onions, and grilled bread and aioli course at Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall  Grilled Pork Cheeks with pickled octopus, braised peppers and onions, and grilled bread and aioli course at Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall

The main course was humongous, and was both impressive and intimidating to many but we were excited for the challenge. We worked together to pass the giant family style platters of the vegetables of Grilled Romaine with Salsa Verde and Feta and the meat that had Smoked Eye of Rib, Grilled Spinella, Braised Rib Tip Marmalade, and Roasted Bone Marrow. We were all feeling like family and friends as a group at this point. The wine pairing of Vina Olabarri Rioja Reserva 2005 was outstanding.
Grilled Romaine with Salsa Verde and Feta vegetable side at the main course for Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall Grilled Romaine with Salsa Verde and Feta vegetable side at the main course for Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall Grilled Romaine with Salsa Verde and Feta vegetable side at the main course for Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall Smoked Eye of Rib, Grilled Spinella, Braised Rib Tip Marmalade, and Roasted Bone Marrow as part of main course at Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall Smoked Eye of Rib, Grilled Spinella, Braised Rib Tip Marmalade, and Roasted Bone Marrow as part of main course at Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall

One of the things that was pretty fun was seeing people try new meats that they never had. We were exploring and learning something new this evening. Some guests were trying carpaccio, or sweetbread, or pork cheeks, for the very first time. All of us wondered together what was Cynar in the Norwegian Negroni or what is Spinella on the meat platter. Ben and Kevin came and helped us out.
Kevin Ludwig explains Cynar at  Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall

Cynar it turns out is an Italian bitter liqueur which has artichoke as a key ingredient, but doesn’t just take like artichoke – in fact it has an herbal slightly bitter sweet taste that is often mixed with orange juice – which is why it’s not a far step to put it in a Negroni with fresh orange oil. Also, it’s pronounced “Chigh-nar”.

Meanwhile, spinella is part of a ribeye cap that is a rare cut as it’s not often butchered into that piece, and combines the best of the fat of a ribeye with the tenderness of the tenderloin… sooo good.
Smoked Eye of Rib, Grilled Spinella, Braised Rib Tip Marmalade, and Roasted Bone Marrow as part of main course at Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall

We were all super full at this point, and some of us said we would just take a few bites of the dessert, an Olive Oil Pound Cake with Orange Marmalade, Creme Fraiche, and Toasted Almonds. Oops, it turns out most of us at the whole thing it was so good that a few spoonfuls was not enough. This was paired with Coltibuono Vin Santo from Italy for a sweet ending.
Olive Oil Pound Cake with orange marmalade, creme fraiche, and toasted almonds at Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall

And of course, don’t forget the promise of more food adventures with the gift certificates envelope! This PFA, guests were encouraged to try out Reverend’s BBQ, Raven and Rose, and Lardo. Ben raved about the Reverend’s BBQ burger, and the atmosphere and great drinks by David Shenaut at Raven and Rose.
The adventures continue with gift certificates to chef recommended spots at Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall The adventures continue with gift certificates to chef recommended spots at Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall The adventures continue with gift certificates to chef recommended spots at Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall The adventures continue with gift certificates to chef recommended spots at Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall
The adventures continue with gift certificates to chef recommended spots at Portland Food Adventures February 5, 2015 featuring Chef Ben Bettinger and Kevin Ludwig at Simpatica Dining Hall

You can check here for upcoming events with Portland Food Adventures, and you can also get some insight into people and events in the Portland Food Scene by listening to the Portland’s Right at the Fork podcast which he helps host. You can also follow PFA at the Portland Food Adventures Facebook, or the Twitter handle @PortlandFoodAdv or Instagram @PortlandFoodAdv 

The price of the tickets to a PFA dinner experience always include all food, drink, gratuity, and are inclusive of the value of the gift certificates you will receive to continue your adventures. The ability to interact with the chefs, as well as to meet and enjoy a meal with many other fellow food adventurers and all the fun conversations you have throughout dinner – completely unique and priceless.

Signature

Truffles Everywhere at the Walk on the Wild Side Oregon Truffle Festival 2015

Last week, I attended the Walk on the Wild Side Chef Showcase at the World Forestry Center. This is the 10th year for the Oregon Truffle Festival that celebrates native Oregon black and white truffles. However, it is the first year that besides the events in Eugene that include Truffle Dog events, cooking classes, and forums, there were a few events that were being held in Portland/Yamhill.

This event was a walk around cocktail style event where various chefs from Oregon and Seattle offered small bites in which they utilized Oregon black truffles or white truffles while guests were also able to enjoy various beer, wine and spirits.
Walk on the Wild Side 2015 Walk on the Wild Side 2015

Here’s a recap of the various truffle bites I enjoyed!

From Olympic Provisions, white truffles were incorporated into a salami with sea salt, while the black truffles were mixed into the mustard to add additional oomf to other cured meats on the charcuterie table.
From Olympic Provisions, white truffles were incorporated into a salami with sea salt, while the black truffles were mixed into the mustard to add additional oomf to other cured meats on the charcuterie table at the Walk on the Wild Side, Oregon Truffle Festival 2015

Dustin Clark, previously of the now shuttered famous Wildwood Restaurant and working on opening new restaurant The Oddfellow Social brought Crispy Tater tots with fontina and tobiko and black truffle and also a Bánh nậm, a vietnamese dish of white truffle infused rice flour with roasted cauliflower and Meyer Lemon on a banana leaf.
Crispy Tater tots with fontina and tobiko and black truffle by Dustin Clark for the Walk on the Wild Side, Oregon Truffle Festival 2015 Crispy Tater tots with fontina and tobiko and black truffle by Dustin Clark for the Walk on the Wild Side, Oregon Truffle Festival 2015 Bánh nậm brought by Dustin Clark, a vietnamese dish of white truffle infused rice flour with roasted cauliflower and Meyer Lemon on a banana leaf for the Walk on the Wild Side, Oregon Truffle Festival 2015

Jason Wilson of Crush brought out a squid risotto with black truffle, cauliflower and grilled scallion sauce
Jason Wilson of Crush brought to the table squid risotto with black truffle, cauliflower and grilled scallion sauce for the Walk on the Wild Side, Oregon Truffle Festival 2015

Stephanie Pearl Kimmel and Crystal Platt of Marché Restaurant in Eugene celebrated black truffles and white truffles with dishes of Boudin Blanc with black truffles and mustard cream and a Celery Root Panna Cotta with white truffles and a apple celery hazelnut salad and trufle aioli. I also appreciated how they beautifully added to their tablescape with trees and pine cones.
Stephanie Pearl Kimmel of Marche in Eugene celebrated truffles with Boudin Blanc with black truffles and mustard cream and a Celery Root Panna Cotta with white truffles and a apple celery hazelnut salad and trufle aioli for the Walk on the Wild Side, Oregon Truffle Festival 2015 tephanie Pearl Kimmel of Marche in Eugene celebrated truffles with Boudin Blanc with black truffles and mustard cream for the Walk on the Wild Side, Oregon Truffle Festival 2015 Stephanie Pearl Kimmel of Marche in Eugene celebrated truffles with a Celery Root Panna Cotta with white truffles and a apple celery hazelnut salad and trufle aioli for the Walk on the Wild Side, Oregon Truffle Festival 2015

Brian McCracken and Dana Tough of multiple restaurants in Seattle (and branded under the awesome McCracken Tough moniker) showed off a pastrami cured kobe beef Philly cheesesteak with melted cheddar and black truffle, as well as a White truffle headcheese with greens, white truffle cream, and shaved white truffle that showcased the truffle flavor the best I think that evening – every bite you can taste truffle.
Brian McCracken and Dana Tough of multiple restaurants in Seattle showed off a pastrami cured kobe beef Philly cheesesteak with melted cheddar and black truffle for the Walk on the Wild Side, Oregon Truffle Festival 2015 Brian McCracken and Dana Tough of multiple restaurants in Seattle (and branded McCracken Tough also brought my favorite truffle showoff dish of the night, a White truffle headcheese with greens, white truffle cream, and shaved white truffle

There were also two entries from Justin Wills for the Restaurant Beck with a Financier with arugula cheese and black truffle and a fancy modernist Crab bisque foam on Meyer lemon gelee with parsnip, tarragon crumble, watercress, and white truffle.
Financier with arugula cheese and black truffle by Justin Wills for the Restaurant Beck for the Walk on the Wild Side, Oregon Truffle Festival 2015 Crab bisque foam on Meyer lemon gelee with parsnip, tarragon crumble, watercress, and white truffle by Justin Wills for the Restaurant Beck for the Walk on the Wild Side, Oregon Truffle Festival 2015

Tyler Malek of Salt and Straw with Woodblock chocolate ice cream scoop, black truffle ice cream scoop, white truffle magic shell, white truffle gummy bears, shaved black truffle, seriously those gummy bears were awesome: here you can see him hand shaving the black truffle on top and then adding the white truffle gummy bears for every sundae served!
Tyler Malek of Salt & Straw hand shaving the black truffle on top of his offering for the evening, a truffle sundae with with Woodblock chocolate ice cream scoop, black truffle ice cream scoop, white truffle magic shell, white truffle gummy bears, shaved black truffle for the Walk on the Wild Side, Oregon Truffle Festival 2015 Tyler Malek of Salt & Straw adding the white truffle gummy bears on top of his offering for the evening, a truffle sundae with with Woodblock chocolate ice cream scoop, black truffle ice cream scoop, white truffle magic shell, white truffle gummy bears, shaved black truffle for the Walk on the Wild Side, Oregon Truffle Festival 2015 Tyler Malek of Salt and Straw with Woodblock chocolate ice cream scoop, black truffle ice cream scoop, white truffle magic shell, white truffle gummy bears, shaved black truffle for the Walk on the Wild Side, Oregon Truffle Festival 2015 Tyler Malek of Salt and Straw with Woodblock chocoalte ice cream scoop, black truffle ice cream scoop, white truffle magic shell, white truffle gummy bears, shaved black truffle for the Walk on the Wild Side, Oregon Truffle Festival 2015

Jason Stoller Smith of Timberline Lodge with pumpkin ganache with white chocolate, white truffle, pine nuts and microgreens and who doesn’t love egg? Now add chicken skin! AND truffle? So Jason brought sous vide egg, truffle infused whole milk, chicken skin with black truffle crumble, truffle oil, shaved black truffle and micro shiso
Jason Stoller Smith of Timberline Lodge with pumpkin ganache with white choclate, white truffle, pine nuts and microgreens for the Walk on the Wild Side, Oregon Truffle Festival 2015 Jason Stoller Smith of Timberline Lodge with sous vide egg, truffle infused whole milk, chicken skin with black truffle crumble, truffle oil, shaved black truffle and micro shiso for the Walk on the Wild Side, Oregon Truffle Festival 2015 Jason Stoller Smith of Timberline Lodge with sous vide egg, truffle infused whole milk, chicken skin with black truffle crumble, truffle oil, shaved black truffle and micro shiso for the Walk on the Wild Side, Oregon Truffle Festival 2015

During the entire evening, there were beverages provided by Erath Winery, Left Coast Cellars, Breakside Brewery, Gilgamesh Brewing, Bull Run Distillery, and Indio Spirits during the evening.

Special thanks to Heather Jones for the Industry Discount she informed me about which allowed me to fit this event into my budget so I could purchase a ticket and attend this event! Check out Heather Jones Consulting and her show with Chris Angelus of Portland Food Adventures, Right at the Fork – a podcast about the Portland food & beverage scene.

The Eugene events are this weekend, if you are interested a few still have tickets left!

What truffle dish sounds like it would have been your favorite?

Signature

Zeus Cafe and the McMenamins Passport

If you live in Portland, I’m sure you have heard of McMenamins before- their gathering spots here in Portland vary from your neighborhood pub to hotels, music and movie venues, breweries, wineries, distilleries and even a coffee roaster. Founded by the two brothers Mike and Brian McMenamin, all their locations still reflect their love for artwork, family friendly, and historic buildings. It’s hard to imagine a Portland experience without visiting at least one McMenamins – be it for a huge value of a happy hour with their irresistible cajun tots or to admire how they transformed a poor farm (Edgefield) or school (Kennedy School) into a property for retreating that is full of local whimsical art, choice of restaurants, spas and movies. Their hotel locations are fun to visit even if you aren’t staying there.

McMenamins just seems like such a Portland institution that you would mention in the same breath as talking about Powell’s Book Store, the Portland White Stag sign, the easy access to the Columbia Gorge and Coast – it’s just a Portland thing. I love taking visitors from out of town to wander the hallways of photos and art particularly at Edgefield (generally as part of my Columbia Gorge waterfall tour) and Kennedy School. There are times people at my work treat the Ceder Hills location as an after work meeting room, and I fight the urge as I smell the burger and fries every time I walk past my neighborhood location of a McMenamins pub, Market Street Pub.

Even though it is a chain, each location has its own individual personality. Recently, I discovered a location McMenamins has downtown as part of the Crystal Hotel, the Zeus Cafe.
Inside Zeus Cafe: The atmosphere at Zeus Café – an open kitchen and full bar at the center of the room surrounded by the twinkling of vintage chandeliers and local art – is comfortable and inviting, Photo credit: McMenamins/Kathleen Nyberg
Inside Zeus Cafe: The atmosphere at Zeus Café – an open kitchen and full bar at the center of the room surrounded by the twinkling of vintage chandeliers and local art – is comfortable and inviting, Photo credit: McMenamins/Kathleen Nyberg

Their focus is elevated food while still keeping it celebrating the very local bounty of the Northwest. For instance, they still offer a pretty good burger (though less burger selection- no Communication Breakdown burger or Caption Neon burger here – but they offer upgraded versions of a burger, such as a Grass Fed Beef Burger or a Housemade Falafel Burger instead). Instead of cajun tots you can get truffle fries or as you see here, chickpea fries with harissa aioli.
"Zeus "Zeus

And instead of breadsticks or spinach and artichoke dip or hummus like the typical pub, now you can feast on

  • a Charcuterie Board, here with housemade rabbit rillette, coppa di testa head cheese, Asiago Fresca, Ancient Heritage Willow, Pickled Cauliflower & cranberries, Mandarin compote and McMenamins Terminator mustard
    Zeus Cafe Charcuterie Board with rabbit rillette, coppa di testa (head cheese), Asiago Fresca, Ancient Heritage Willow(cow/sheep blend), Pickled Cauliflower & cranberries, Mandarin compote and Mcmenamins terminator mustard
  • or Seared Sea Scallops with arugula, currants, and chorizo vinaigrette
    Zeus Cafe appetizer of seared sea scallops, arugula, currants, and chorizo vinaigrette
  • or Smoked Brisket Stuffed Piquillo Peppers with cauliflower purée, fried almonds, and chimmichurri.
    Zeus Cafe smoked brisket stuffed piquillo peppers, cauliflower purée, fried almonds, chimmichurri Zeus Cafe smoked brisket stuffed piquillo peppers, cauliflower purée, fried almonds, chimmichurri

Wow right? They have a menu that changes often based on what is best from various local farms and purveyers (such as Flying Fish for their seafood, Painted Hill or NW Grass Fed Farms Washington or Pat and Tam’s Farm for meat, etc. A special starter on my visit night included Speck wrapped Rabbit Loin on a Lard Sable cracker (this was a bit hard to eat because it was soft and crumbly and super buttery, but oh so delicious) with Huckleberry Jam and Chervil.
A special starter on my visit night at Zeus Cafe of Speck wrapped Rabbit Loin on a Lard Sable cracker (shortbread like) with Huckleberry Jam, touch of Chervil.

Wait til you see my dinner entree, and desserts.
Executive chef, Jordan Taylor, and Pastry chef, Warren Pinkston Kaam, in Zeus Café’s open kitchen, Photo credit: McMenamins/Kathleen Nyberg
Executive chef, Jordan Taylor, and Pastry chef, Warren Pinkston Kaam, in Zeus Café’s open kitchen, Photo credit: McMenamins/Kathleen Nyberg

Head Chef Jordan Taylor loves the freedom he  has at Zeus to explore various flavor profiles using Northwest ingredients then tinged with influences from the Mediterranean and in this one dish, Asia: super tender Bulgogi Braised Short Ribs served with a slightly crispy but also soft fresh grilled rice cake, spicy broccoli, and sunny side egg.
Zeus Cafe dinner entree of bulgogi braised short ribs, grilled rice cake, spicy broccoli, sunny side egg "Zeus

Pastry Chef Warren Pinkston Kaam is a hidden gem of a dessert genius here in Portland with impressive dessert options here that I sampled including

  • my favorite a Toffee Budino with honeyed crème fraîche, toffee sauce, hazelnut pralines, chocolate sea salt. I’m still thinking about how dreamy this tasted, I think ate half of it on behalf of my part of the table
  • Malted Milk Chocolate Tart with espresso pastry cream, mascarpone crema, and micro shiso
  • Molasses Custard with sugared pecans, bourbon cream, shortbread crumble, vanilla ice cream
  • a special that evening of a deconstructed dessert of Yuzu Curd with elderflower jelly, hazelnut nougatine, hazelnut dacquoise, toasted meringue.

Toffee Budino with honeyed crème fraîche, toffee sauce, hazelnut pralines, chocolate sea salt Zeus Cafe dessert of Malted Milk Chocolate Tart with espresso pastry cream, mascarpone crema, micro shiso Zeus Cafe dessert of Molasses Custard with sugared pecans, bourbon cream, shortbread crumble, vanilla ice cream Zeus Cafe deconstructed dessert of Yuzu Curd with elderflower jelly, hazelnut nougatine, hazelnut dacquoise, toasted meringue

In terms of beverages, my world was rocked by the Zeus Cafe cocktail called the The Café Smash that in winter, is composed of muddled Blackberry, Aged Balsamic Vinegar, Fresh Squeezed Lemon, Black Pepper Syrup and Crater Lake Vodka. In the summer it may go back to strawberries instead of blackberries, which was the original inspiration for Adam Kurth: Zeus Café Bar Manager, when he was trying to create a cocktail to pair with a salad. I loved the sweet but sour and savory flavors all in one cocktail.
Zeus Cafe cocktail that in winter, The Café Smash was composed of muddled Blackberry, Aged Balsamic Vinegar, Frsh. Squeezed Lemon, Black. Pepper Syrup and Crater Lake Vodka. In the summer it may go back to strawberries instead of blackberries

Another impressive cocktail is the Fuentes with el jimador blanco tequila, del maguey la vida mezcal, aperol, fresh squeezed grapefruit (MeMenamins always uses fresh juices for their cocktails), smoked ice cube, and smoked glassware.
Fuentes, a Zeus Cafe cocktail with el jimador blanco tequila, del maguey la vida mezcal, aperol, fresh squeezed grapefruit, smoked ice cube, and smoked glassware

I was also blown away with the sippers of a cocktail called Burnt Bulleit with bulleit rye whiskey, burnt sugar syrup, lemon zest and a hefty shake of angostura bitters. The discovery of a burnt sugar syrup was a total accident, and as other locations were bring instructed how to make this cocktail they were understandably nervous that a step included recreating that mistake m!

Another tasty libation was a cocktail called the Riptide with maui dark hawaiian rum, espresso vanilla bean syrup, fernet branca, aztec chocolate bitters and orange zest. And I was fortunate to get a strong smooth sip of the Devil’s Bit Whiskey
Burnt Bulleit with bulleit rye whiskey, burnt sugar syrup, lemon zest and a hefty shake of angostura bitters, and the Riptide with maui dark hawaiian rum, espresso vanilla bean syrup, fernet branca, aztec chocolate bitters and orange zest Burnt Bulleit with bulleit rye whiskey, burnt sugar syrup, lemon zest and a hefty shake of angostura bitters, and the Riptide with maui dark hawaiian rum, espresso vanilla bean syrup, fernet branca, aztec chocolate bitters and orange zest Sip of Devil's Bit Whiskey

Besides of course dinner and happy hour, Zeus also offers brunch, with options like Spanish Eggs or Greek Eggs if you want to do an egg face-off, or Chilaquiles if you want to take your egg options around the world. Their version of eggs benedict comes with Hills Farm ham, chipotle hollandaise and your choice of home fries or creamy polenta. And, Zeus’ brunch seems to be  a hidden secret so far, so currently there is no brunch line.

I know that for some of you Portland residents, when you think of McMenamins, you think of your casual beer place with the interesting building and servers so laid back that you know not to go there if you’re in a rush. At the same time though, if you want to squat a table chatting or on your laptop working at the pub for 2 hours, or sit outside at a table while your dogs and kids play on a lawn of one of their hotel, there is also no one giving you trouble. Children are always welcome (obviously accompanied by adults) at I think almost all McMenamins locations. Think of their unhurried relaxed character as both a positive and a negative, depending on what you are looking for in an experience.

The vibe at Zeus is still relaxed, but the mellowness has been replaced by more attentiveness than you will find at their casual pubs. As I was unwrapping my napkin, I accidentally dropped my knife on the carpet. No big deal- we were just at appetizers. But in only a few minutes, a server brought me a new knife without me saying a thing. The water glasses were always full, empty cocktail glasses were checked to make sure I didn’t want the last bit melted with ice before being removed from the table not long after I finished them. They swapped out our silverware between dinner and desserts, a friend with some food restrictions was happily accommodated where they checked in with her for each course that everything in the dish would be ok.

I definitely plan to come back to Zeus to try more of the great experimental drinks that this McMenamins location is doing and think you might want to give it a try too.

Did you know there’s a rewards program to entice you to check out each McMenamin’s location? This was one of the most exciting things I learned during my evening at Zeus. It’s called McMenamins Passport. It is a cool quest you can do in which you collect stamps in a passport book to win prizes and just have extra experiences whenever you visit any McMenamins location- and of course, encourage you to visit McMenamins locations and to check out specials they have.
McMenamins Passport

There is an initial cost for the passport – $25 (up from $20 of last year), and you must be 21 years old at a minimum. Once you have the passport however, there is no more additional cost in most cases – for instance you can visit a location and get a stamp without eating or staying there at all. The few exceptions for instance might be for instance if a stamp is for seeing a movie, you will have to buy a ticket to a movie at that location (or attend a free movie show- but either way you have to see a movie somehow!).

Each page in the passport is for either a location or for a theme (for instance, there is one for Edgefield that consists of multiple stamps, but there is also a whole page that is for all of the Seattle locations all in one page). And each stamp is different!

Some stamps are more than just visiting the location – besides an experience (such as seeing a movie), there may be tasks you need to do like a photo hunt for a certain artwork in the location based on a clue that you are given. There are also special stamps that are available for events or even for a seasonal beer or because you experienced something (such as taking a tour of a property, stopping at a location on your birthday, or having a pint with a pup!)
Example page 4 from the McMenamins Passport Examples pages from the McMenamins Passport

Once you collect all the stamps on one page, you get a prize. Prizes for filling out each page vary from food like free tots (which you can collect right then and there, or come back to a location on that page to get later) to t-shirts, gift cards, even stays at various McMenamins hotel locations.

The Grand Prize, if you collect all the stamps in a book for visiting all the locations, is pretty impressive. Keep in mind some pages are just to collect the special stamps – like the various seasonal beer stamps don’t count towards filling out the book- you don’t have to drink them all. Still, considering that there are 57 locations in Oregon and Washington, this is literally a quest to travel to collect stamps / an excuse or New Year’s resolution to help you explore various small towns that are served by their unique, neighborhood McMenamins pub.

The Grand Prize includes 3 overnight stays at a McMenamins hotel of your choice, pair of event tickets, showing the Grand Prize Booklet to get drinks at happy hour prices Sunday-Thursday for the first year after you’ve completed your passport, and invitations and discounts to special exclusive events that are open only to those who have completed a passport, a special group of successful McMenamins questers called Cosmic Tripsters. Did you know there is a whole special group of Cosmic Tripsters, sort of like a secret society, that meets and communicates with each other?

For a feel of the fun, check out this video, and get more details at their website at their McMenamins Passport page.

I was so excited when I heard about the Passport that I even sitting with a group of other food lovers, that’s what we just kept chatting about. This year, I hope to fill out a lot of my Passport – I’ll keep you appraised with posts as I go!

Have you ever been to Zeus Cafe, or heard of the McMenamins Passport program?

McMenamins Passport Back of the McMenamins Passport

 

Disclosure: This meal was complimentary, and I was given a McMenamins Passport to fill out. But I will always provide my honest opinion and assessment of all products and experiences I may be given. The views and opinions expressed in this blog are entirely my own.

Signature

Holiday Ale Festival 2014 is coming!

This week from Wednesday to Sunday December 3 – 7 2014 is one of my favorite beer festivals, the Holiday Ale Festival. As in previous years, it takes place under heated tents at Pioneer Courthouse Square, with a view of the gigantic sparkling Christmas tree through the clear tent that will keep you dry no matter what the weather. With the Max line literally stopping only yards away and plenty of hotels nearby in the downtown area, you may choose to make it a whole “day away from home staycation”. I think the best time to visit, if you can, is during the daytime rather in the evening since that is the more popular and obvious time. The festival hours are 11 AM – 10 PM everyday but Sunday when the festival ends at 5 PM.

Photo of the setup of the Holiday Ale Festival in Pioneer Courthouse Square, photo by Timothy Horn Christmas Tree in Pioneer Courthouse Square, 2013
Photo Credit: First photo by Timothy Horn, second photo is mine

Under the tents are some tables and seating, gas heaters, port a potties, as well as a couple food vendors (this year featuring Bunk Sandwiches and Urban German Grill) so along with your 2014 admission mug and tokens, you have everything you need in one place, just bring money and friends! As long as you bring your wristband and mug back, you can get re-admitted any of the festival days, so also feel free to pace yourself and stretch out your visit to many.

Example goodness from Bunk Sandwiches, here are their samples of Cubano sandwiches Example goodness from Bunk Sandwiches, here are their samples of Cubano sandwiches
Example goodness from Bunk Sandwiches

Example goodness from Urban German Grill Example goodness from Urban German Grill
Example goodness from Urban German Grill

Make sure to check in your coat and any bags you may have (feel free to maybe get a little Christmas shopping in beforehand and then finish up at the Holiday Ale Fest!) because all proceeds from the bag and coat check at the Holiday Ale Fest, as well as the raffle located at the Coat Check (you don’t need to be present to win) and the root beer garden all benefit the Children’s Cancer Association. This worthy cause, CCA, works to impact the care and quality of life of children with cancer and other serious illnesses immediately by delivering resources, friendship, and helping quality of life today.

Besides the donation to the Children’s Cancer Association, what makes this particular beer festival unique to others is its focus on lots of dark beers and also aged beers. I love tasting the notes of chocolates, roast, coffee, toffee, molasses, caramels, nuts, etc. that you can often detect in dark beers. Some beers additionally are being brewed or aged with extra ingredients such as cranberries, cherry puree, maple syrup, habanero peppers, even pumpkin pie spice and there is a lot of flavor going on to add to the holiday spirit all around you. It seems the colder weather is season for these kind of flavors and thus “holiday ales”.
Holiday Ale Festival, photo courtesy Timothy Horn
Photo Credit: Timothy Horn

Add to that that most of these beers are also barrel aged, which means that as part of the process they sit in barrels and absorb the flavors of the barrels and some of the characteristic flavors of the previous liquid occupant of those barrels- and some of the options include wine barrels, whiskey barrels, rum barrels and more. You will get additional flavors of wood, vanilla, dark fruits, perhaps some sourness or heat or extra spice and possibly more from this treatment. If you are thinking that sounds a lot like getting the complexity of aromas and flavors like a wine or port you are exactly right.

Not only that, but the guidelines for this festival are that all the beers available at the event were made specifically for the event, blended specifically for the event, or a vintage beer – in other words the beer has not been released prior to the Holiday Ale Festival. So the beers of the festival are, in some cases, sometimes previews of beers that are coming but in most cases, one off special beers from the past or just made for the event!

Holiday Ale Festival 2014 logo
You only have until Wednesday to buy your tickets online and be able to use a card to pay. Admission at the door is CASH ONLY. Admission is $35 including the reusable plastic mug and 12 beer tickets. Remember you can exit and return using that mug as often as you’d like over the four days of the festival, and additional beer tickets are $1 each. If you buy your admission ahead of time, you also get 2 additional tickets and can use an expediated entry line.

One beer ticket is almost all cases will get you a 4 ounce sample pour. You can get a full mug pour for 4 tickets. There are some beers which may cost more tickets because they are more limited in quantity or are special taps (such as all the Limited Release Beers). You must be 21 and older to attend the event

I have taken a look at the beer list and wanted to point out a few highlighted beers I am excited to try when I attend Wednesday (I am working a half day and then enjoying the rest – see earlier comment about staycation, and this is a too conveniently located beercation to turn down!). My list here are only from the Standard Release Beers and not the Limited Release beers that you need to come at the right release time to enjoy. But, if you do come to the festival, make sure to see what Limited Release beers may be tapping during your visit!

This isn’t even my full list- just a snapshot of to help you see the kind of beers and to give you an idea of what the Holiday Ale Festival offers. I haven’t had these beers yet but the descriptions sound interesting to me…

  • 13 Virtues Brewingis presenting their Barrel-Aged MAX Stout which is a barrel aged Imperial Stout that has been aged in both Eastside Distillery and Bull Run Distillery Whiskey barrels for three to four months, giving off oak and vanilla notes and textured layers of deep, dark secrets. Succumb to temptation…
  • I wrote about this previously when reviewing Kell’s Brew Pub, but the Kells Brew Pub MIC Stout AKA Boom Roaster, a collaboration between homebrewer Natalie Baldwin and Kells head brewer Dave Fleming. It is an Imperial Coffee Milk Stout uses Sidamo coffee from Ristretto Roasters and was the People’s Choice and Judge’s Choice winner of the Willamette Week Beer Pro/Am, see if it’s a winner for you!
  • Republic Brewing Co. is bringing the cutely named Do You Want To Build A Snowman?, a Barrel-Aged Golden Blend using four different barrels from the cellar, including Cuvee de Bubba, Pinot Noir re-fermented Kolsch, Tequila Barrel Aged El Oso Lager and Demolition Derby barrels. Yeah, that’s all. Huge fruity notes of pineapple, strawberries and grapes snuggle up to spicy oak, tropical hop notes and a slight pleasing tartness
    Holiday Ale Festival photo, by Timothy Horn
    Photo Credit: Timothy Horn
  • Cascade Brewing is offering a beer they are calling Gingersnaps which is a NW Style Sour Strong Ale that is a blend of Red, Spiced Red and Spiced Quads aged in Bourbon and rum barrels for up to two years on spices including ginger, cinnamon and nutmeg, and figs. Chocolate and rum hold down the low end while Bourbon and spice hit the high notes on the palate. The finish is a crescendo of raisins, dates, chocolate and ginger with a lingering boozy warmth. Sounds like sour yum to me.
  • Coalition Brewing is bringing supposedly their Loving Cup Male Porter’s big brother to the festival, an Imperial Maple Porter beer named Big Maple. This big brother beer is a blend of malts including Patagonia caramel 15 malt that adds a malty sweetness, while two different chocolate malts provide layers of roast and chocolate notes. Vermont grade A maple is added to the boil, bringing a subtle sweetness and maple aromatics. A whisper of smoke balances this winter treat. Enjoy this one-off beer while you can!
  • Ex Novo Brewing Co. did a collaboration with Moonstruck Chocolates to create a beer called Moonstriker, a Baltic Porter with Mexican Chocolate.
  • Fort George Brewery has created Santa’s Dinner Jacket, a Bourbon Barrel-Aged Imperial Red Ale that has been aging in Bull Run Distillery barrels. Sipped slowly and allowed to warm, this beer tells a story of time spent in the barrel infusing this heftily hopped ale with notes of port, sherry, caramel and toffee.
    Holiday Ale Festival picture, photo by Timothy Horn
    Photo Credit: Timothy Horn
  • It’s not always just about dark beers. How about a saison? Specifically, Gigantic Brewing has created Red Ryder BB Gun, a Saison with Cranberries that promises to be a balance of sweet and sour and spicy and tart.
  • Consider comparing the cranberries in that to Burnside Brewing Co. presenting Jingleberry, an Imperial Stout with Cranberries. Yes, that’s right. An imperial stout aged on fresh cranberries that features hints of cocoa and toffee.
  • It’s not always about the whiskey and bourbon barrels of course, like with the Lompoc Brewing Pinot Noir Barrel-Aged Cheval de Trait Belge, named in honor of Belgian work horses – one of the strongest breeds, this dark Belgian Style Strong Ale has been aging in Maryhill Winery Pinot Noir barrels for six months. It has a malty body and strong oak character, finishing dry with hints of chocolate and tobacco.
  • Or, how about the McMenamins Edgefield rum barrel aged Imperial Mexican Mocha Stout called Lord of Misrule brewed with cacao nibs, kilned coffee malt and habanero peppers, then aged in rum barrels post-fermentation for another taste of what barrel aging can produce?
    Holiday Ale Festival, photo by Timothy Horn
    Photo Credit: Timothy Horn
  • There are several chocolate flavors going on in various beer entrants to the festival, but what about White Chocolate Milk Stout? Yep, Oakshire Brewing is bringing one called Prestidigitation that is a beer Blonde in color, yet full-bodied and mildly sweet. This milk stout uses coffee, cocoa nibs and star anise to produce the flavors and aromas of a milk stout with the color of a pale ale.
  • I plan to do a face-off between two chocolate banana beers that are on deck for the Holiday Ale Festival- one from Old Town Brewing Co called Bluth’s Original Chocolate Banana Hefeweizen and described as a Chocolate Bavarian-Style Hefeweizen that is , straight from the description, basically a frozen banana with double the chocolate, nuts and two sticks. Brewed to Pop-Pop’s original (stolen) recipe to be a “cold banana in delicious brown treat.” Two-row, wheat and chocolate malts co-mingle with Mt. Hood hops and cocoa nibs. “There’s always money in the banana stand! No touching!”.
  • The previous beer then will be compared against Stickman Brewery‘s Big Black Banana, a Dunkelweizen for which the Stickmen brewers took their bananas foster beer (Bananas On Fire!) and dunked it in chocolate for the holidays. The Weihenstephan Weizen yeast provides banana and spice, the caramel comes from a good dose of Crystal 120 and Special B malts, and the chocolate from cocoa nibs and chocolate malt.
  • Chocolate and banana? Check. And how about Chocolate and Cherries? Check, thanks to Portland Brewing Co. bringing a Bourbon Barrel-Aged Imperial Cherry Stout brewed just for the 2014 Holiday Ale Festival. This brew boasts a huge malty backbone from seven different malts, a Northwest hop profile, and notes of roasted coffee balanced by delicious cherry flavors from an Oregon-grown sweet cherry puree.

Holiday Ale Festival, photo by Timothy Horn
Photo Credit: Timothy Horn

I hope this list has not been too overwhelming. Does anything stand out to you? Are you planning to attend or recommend the Holiday Ale Festival?

Signature

September Nodoguro Theme Totoro

I think this has been my favorite tablescape yet, with September’s Nodoguro theme Totoro from My Neighbor Totoro, a film by Hayao Miyazaki and Studio Ghibli.

Seriously, at nine courses for $85, these Nodoguro PDX dinners are such an amazing value. Now that Evoe has closed and the space next to Pastaworks on Hawthorne is theirs, I expect Nodoguro to start settling in now that it’s not a hobo that needs to pop up at different locations.

So far, the main noticeable change is the expansion of when they can have their dinners: the one I attended was on a Saturday evening, instead of being limited to Tuesday and Wednesday nights like before. The chalkboards that used to list the Evoe menu have been wiped clean, and I hope that Ryan and Elena will display all the various paintings that have been created for each of the past pop-up dinner themes, sort of like a Nodoguro Art Exhibit. Although I loved Totoro, and of course the food and my dining companions, one of the highlights this past dinner was meeting Elena’s father, who paints an art piece each month reflecting the latest Nodoguro theme. I would be proud to hang any one of his work on my walls at home!

A new addition to the menu is that Nodoguro also debuted a pairing menu for their courses that was suggested by a very knowledgeable guest and locally known drinks connossieur Paul Willenberg. At $50 for six beverage pairings, and at least at my seating everything but the beer was a full pour (and the beer was still at a generous 10 ounces), it’s another bargain value and all together makes for a very filling meal indeed. There were several bottles that I jotted down the name on my phone to seek out later as they were great unique finds, and I loved being introduced to them. I would definitely recommend the pairing menu.

If you are going to explore and be taken on a culinary adventure, might as well go all in right?  So eat light the day you are coming to your dinner!

I knew I was going to have a fabulous time when I saw the new Nodoguro host standing there to greet us as we arrived. I hope they continue to employ him because he was so welcoming and warm and I immediately felt comfortable.
The host Totoro at the Nodoguro Dinner for September

Meanwhile, on the side of the wall that is usually the latest Nodoguro theme painting, a projector instead showed the Totoro movie while just below the screen seemed to be a little shrine…
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro

The tablescape also included Totoro on the menus for food and drink, and peeking at guests as they dined from the terrariums. A dragon also was a callback to another Hayao Miyazaki film, Spirited Away.
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. The tablescape had lots of Totoros peeking at the guest diners Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. The tablescape had lots of Totoros peeking at the guest diners Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. The tablescape had lots of Totoros peeking at the guest diners Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. The tablescape had lots of Totoros peeking at the guest diners Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. The tablescape had lots of Totoros peeking at the guest diners Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. The tablescape had lots of Totoros peeking at the guest diners Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. The tablescape had lots of Totoros peeking at the guest diners

First Course: Phantom Rabbit Melon slice

I can’t get over Totoro with his little “o” on his mouth watching me eat this melon with the champagne pairing, as you can see in the last photo in the background. I can never complain with starting a meal with a pairing that includes sparkling, in this case the Lamiable Champagne Brut Grand Cru.

Also in the background, as a little dinner party group we also decided to bring some corn as a little joke to Nodoguro – the youngest daughter bringing a fresh sweet corn to her mother is an important plot point in the Totoro movie.

Second Course: Poached Octopus with Wasabi and Citrus

A glimpse of Chef Ryan Roadhouse slicing the Poached Octopus like a ninja.
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Chef Ryan Roadhouse slicing the Poached Octopus

Don’t be afraid of the little suckers of these tentacles- eating these was so soft, reminiscent of the texture of a poached lobster, this was so tender.

Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Second Course: Poached Octopus with Wasabi and Citrus Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Second Course: Poached Octopus with Wasabi and Citrus Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Second Course: Poached Octopus with Wasabi and Citrus

Third Course: Tomato Oden with Ham and Eggs

Teamwork in plating the course between Ryan Roadhouse and Mark Wooten!
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Third Course: Tomato Oden with Ham and Eggs. Teamwork in plating by Ryan Roadhouse and Mark Wooten Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Third Course: Tomato Oden with Ham and Eggs. Teamwork in plating by Ryan Roadhouse and Mark Wooten Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Third Course: Tomato Oden with Ham and Eggs. Teamwork in plating by Ryan Roadhouse and Mark Wooten
And the beautiful result of two tomatoes, 3 year aged ham, and egg yolk cream…
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Third Course: Tomato Oden with Ham and Eggs. The beautiful result of two tomatoes, 3 year aged ham, and egg yolk cream Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Third Course: Tomato Oden with Ham and Eggs. The beautiful result of two tomatoes, 3 year aged ham, and egg yolk cream

Not pictured is the beautiful glass of the next beverage pairing, a 2013 Fossil and Fawn Rosé  of Pinot Gris, Crowley Station which was just lovely. I thought I took a photo of it to show the colors of that beautiful rose color (in fact it bordered more on strawberry red than a light pink!) of this Pinot Gris with the tomato, but apparently I got excited and just ate this dish.

Fourth Course: Dungeness Crab and Fennel Sunomono

Time for a little palate cleanser with the “salad” course of sunomono, which as Ryan wryly explained, is “stuff in vinegar”.
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Fourth Course: Dungeness Crab and Fennel Sunomono and Uni wrapped in kelp Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Fourth Course: Dungeness Crab and Fennel Sunomono and Uni wrapped in kelp Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Fourth Course: Dungeness Crab and Fennel Sunomono and Uni wrapped in kelp
What is this tubular vegetable thing? Oh says Ryan offhandedly, just Uni wrapped in Kelp. No big deal.
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Fourth Course: Dungeness Crab and Fennel Sunomono and Uni wrapped in kelp

Fifth Course: Monkfish Liver Torchon with Ground Cherry Miso

I don’t know why I’ve been so lucky to get to eat delicious rich fatty liver for 3 weeks now!
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Fifth Course: Monkfish Liver Torchon with Ground Cherry Miso Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Fifth Course: Monkfish Liver Torchon with Ground Cherry Miso Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Fifth Course: Monkfish Liver Torchon with Ground Cherry Miso

This is where I had my very favorite pairing, which was the Fuku Chitose “Happy Owl” Yamahai Junmai sake that had a very mushroom quality to the flavor that really complimented the melt in your mouth liver torchon here.
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Fifth Course: Monkfish Liver Torchon with Ground Cherry Miso

Sixth Course: Smoked Salmon and Nanban Carrots

As soon as they opened the oven the room practically fell into silence as we breathed in heavily the incredibly smoky aromas of this dish.

This time Ryan went with smoked alder on sashimi grade salmon, and the beautiful colors of the corn and carrot flowers adding some delicacy to this big hunk of fish that just tenderly flaked off with our chopsticks. I almost wished I had a whiskey to enjoy with this, but the sake also went well in emphasizing the grand earthiness of this dish.
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Sixth Course: Smoked Salmon and Nanban Carrots Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Sixth Course: Smoked Salmon and Nanban Carrots Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Sixth Course: Smoked Salmon and Nanban Carrots

Seventh Course: Chiashu with Turnip, Miso, and Walnut

This chiashu is a call back to Spirited Away, which is one of the foodiest movies Hayao Miyazaki has made. In the movie, the heroine’s parents are turned into pigs as they eat like pigs at an empty restaurant stall on food probably much like this luscious pork belly. I imagine if I saw an empty foodstand with the dish lined up like this, it would indeed be a mighty strong temptation…
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Seventh Course: Chiashu with Turnip, Miso, and Walnut, a dish that is a nod to Spirited Away also by Hayao Miyazaki Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Seventh Course: Chiashu with Turnip, Miso, and Walnut, a dish that is a nod to Spirited Away also by Hayao Miyazaki

The mustard greens and the beverage pairing, a 2012 Johan Vineyards Blaufränkisch (a grape I had never heard of until I was introduced at this meal, and was very pleased to make the acquaintance and look forward to being friends) were a great contrast to the richness of the meat. Yet, at the same time the Blaufränkisch was contrasting it with a hint of spice, the wine was also wonderfully complimenting the meat with its round fruit that is silky and rich without heavy tannins.

The miso was providing extra umami along with a bit of salt highlight, and the turnip here being a nod to the use of radish.
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Seventh Course: Chiashu with Turnip, Miso, and Walnut, a dish that is a nod to Spirited Away also by Hayao Miyazaki Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Seventh Course: Chiashu with Turnip, Miso, and Walnut, a dish that is a nod to Spirited Away also by Hayao Miyazaki Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Seventh Course: Chiashu with Turnip, Miso, and Walnut, a dish that is a nod to Spirited Away also by Hayao Miyazaki

Can you tell I was excited by this slow roasted pork dish?
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Seventh Course: Chiashu with Turnip, Miso, and Walnut, a dish that is a nod to Spirited Away also by Hayao Miyazaki

Eighth Course: Satsuki’s Bento

This is the Nodoguro interpretation of the bento box that the older sister character puts together for her family in the My Neighbor Totoro movie. This was the only pairing that I didn’t like, as at least for me the Upright Six dark rye saison beer had caramel notes that I didn’t understand with the mackerel fish and Italian plum flavors of this rice bowl.
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Eighth Course: Satsuki's Bento Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Eighth Course: Satsuki's Bento Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Eighth Course: Satsuki's Bento

Ninth Course: Tamago Sushi

On the other hand, I did like the Rye Saison beer with the rice stuffed sweet rolled egg!
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Ninth Course: Tamago Sushi with the rice stuffed inside the sweet rolled egg Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Ninth Course: Tamago Sushi with the rice stuffed inside the sweet rolled egg

Tenth Course: Acorn, Figs, and Honey

Acorns play a big part in Totoro, so I was not surprised to see them in the decorative elements of the restaurant this month as well as in a dish. This was paired with a 2001 Jos. Christoffel Jr Orziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese, a terrific riesling that offered both sweetness that blossomed into spiciness that was so incredibly I preferred drinking it alone to eating it with the food so I could enjoy its complexity.

In this dish, the acorns are in gel form and paired with popped soba and figs right from the chef’s personal family garden and some Bee Local Honey (no surprise as besides having amazing honey, I saw these two dark haired curly gentlemen Ryan at the  and Damian of Bee Local right next to each other at the Feast Oregon County tables on Saturday.
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Tenth Course: Acorn, Figs, and honey from Bee Local, and some popped soba Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Tenth Course: Acorn, Figs, and honey from Bee Local, and some popped soba Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Tenth Course: Acorn, Figs, and honey from Bee Local, and some popped soba

Tea Service: Moon Manju with Peppermint Tea

And then all too soon, it was the end, with the traditional Japanese tea service of a manju with a rabbit on it (a popular folklore in Asian cultures is that a rabbit lives on the moon) and the peppermint tea which started as green tea and then added the peppermint layer.
Nodoguro PDX September 2014, theme dinner Totoro. Tea Service: Moon Manju with Peppermint Tea

It was a pretty delicious dinner, as always… interestingly enough, there is a LOT of food in the Hayao Miyazaki films, particularly Spirited Away which had tons of food including a street full of food stalls inspired by the town of Jiufen in Taiwan. Maybe some day in the future… a repeat with dishes inspired by more films?

The October theme for the Nodoguro Dinners is “A Tribute to Water”. Check the website often as they will sometimes announce new dates! Buy your seats and experience what I think is the best Japanese cuisine in Portland!

Some of the draft courses (dependent on what is best and fresh at the time of the dinner, they even change it out during the month sometimes as needed) include dishes like

  • Charred Hakurei Tofu with ikura, and Matsutake 
  • Hirame Usuzukuri (a thinly sliced Halibut sashimi served with Ponzu sauce)
  • Orca beans, scallop, Uni, and water pepper
  • Air dried Sanma with citrus, and grated karaine
  • Duck, Soba, and Chrysanthemum
  • Chocolate and Filbert Beer Float

Get your tickets at the Nodoguro website!

Signature