Lunch at Geranium

November 2, 2018 by Leave a Comment

During my trip to Copenhagen recently, I splurged on a luxurious lunch dining at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant run by a chef who has won gold, silver and bronze at the Bocuse D’or, essentially an international culinary Olympics. It was a lunch that lasted 4 hours, basically filled me up so dinner was no longer necessary, and included 18 small dishes. I’ll also say upfront that this was a meal that has me tightening up my food dining budget for the rest of the year – the Autumn Universe Tasting menu, which is prix fixe, is 2,500 DKK – about $382. And that is before any beverage pairings (wine pairing options range from 1,400-4,200 DKK), though I opted for the juice pairing at 750 DKK. Is it worth it? It is if you have the right mindframe.
Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen
In the back glass case behind the fireplace you can see the Bocuse D’or, trophies of with gold, silver, and bronze.

My experience dining at Geranium was not my first experience in the Michelin star restaurant world – and in of course a controversial arbitrary filter the Michelin stars are only awarded in four cities in the US. The limitation means that you can definitely find food that is just as delicious without the Michelin star in both high and low places, including I think here in Portland.

That said, there is a certain difference between difference that I do notice at the few Michelin starred restaurants I have experienced– and its beyond deliciousness. What IMHO are the differentiating factors are consistency in all the dishes are executed at a high level, the elegant and meticulously designed service, and finally overall dining experience being composed of more then just the food that goes in your mouth. So to make the Geranium or any of this level of restaurant feel worth it, you have to be aware and appreciate those additional characteristics.

It’s a little weird to find Geranium given it’s location at the Telia Parken Stadium. The atmosphere of Geranium is clean and minimalist in white and grey tones, but also comfortable. I appreciated that my dining seat was basically a mini-couch, complete with a couple pillows. Floor to ceiling windows let us look out into the bright autumn foliage and sunshine of the Fælledparken Garden outside. It was perfection in setting the stage and underscoring throughout the meal when the theme is Autumn. The same menu is served at lunch and dinner and I prefer enjoying it in the full light of day then.
Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

My table also was right next to the area of the kitchen where they did the plating (the cooking of the dishes happens in additional kitchen areas beyond, which you get to see later before dessert as part of the restaurant tour). There is one more table you can barely see behind mine where the occupant can watch all the plating happen, but I liked the option to also watch the other diners in the room or turn to see the kitchen easily. I was literally the first guest for lunch to show up (which is why my photos initially show an empty dining room), so often I was among the first to get a dish and I could also watch the fun of the reactions of other diners to those dishes.
Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

At Geranium, the service and experience is very much like a private art show for your dining table – it is personalized and with the most minute level attention to detail so that no finished glass or plate ever lingers long, and several dishes have the final plating completed tableside. Every dish has an explanation presented to you, and you have the opportunity to ask questions – so you should feel free to engage in that conversation. Every person at the table gets served at the same time, and I enjoyed observing a parade of staff forming and timing orchestrated for some of the larger tables in the dining room in how it almost looked like a dance.
Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen. At the beginning of the meal after being seated, a cart is rolled out with options of sparkling wines and champagne in case you are interested in a bubbly start to your meal at Geranium.
At the beginning of the meal after being seated, a cart is rolled out with options of sparkling wines and champagne in case you are interested in a bubbly start to your meal at Geranium.

Each dish really is a work of art – and to get the most of it, I recommend taking the time to look at it and fully appreciate it on a visual and aromatic level before going for the texture and flavors portion of the culinary art performance. Think of each dish not just as food but also as interactive art that changes as you engage with it, and notice the transformation during your interactions with it.

Here’s a look course by course of my lunch at Geranium to give you an idea of what this can mean. At the beginning of the meal they present an envelope with a menu inside, akin to a letter, and you get to decide whether you want to open it and see what is coming throughout the meal, or be surprised. I decided to be surprised, at least until the 10th or so dish when I started to wonder how much more can I could take food-wise.

Most of the dishes are vegetarian or pescatarian – and I didn’t miss the meat at all. This reflects Executive Chef Rasmus Kofoed upbringing – he grew up vegetarian with his family, even though he is no longer vegetarian he recognizes and wants to highlight you can have meaty flavors without meat. It’s part of the reason for the restaurant name – to highlight seasonal green. You are going to see it reflected shortly in the presentation of dishes too.

Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

The Geranium Autumn Universe

Appetizers

Lobster, Goat Milk, Juice from Fermented Carrots and Sea Buckthorn
This dish was a fun snack start to the lunch that looked smooth and creamy but was actually quite full of chunks of lobster. You can see the drops of sea buckthorn oil in the second photo.
Lobster, Goat Milk, Juice from Fermented Carrots and Sea Buckthorn appetizer at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Lobster, Goat Milk, Juice from Fermented Carrots and Sea Buckthorn appetizer at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Lobster, Goat Milk, Juice from Fermented Carrots and Sea Buckthorn appetizer at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Lobster, Goat Milk, Juice from Fermented Carrots and Sea Buckthorn appetizer at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

Crispy Leaves, Walnut Oil, and Pickled Walnut Leaves
The leaves were so dainty, I remember holding on and turning it over a few times just studying it, and the sauce you see was aioli like which I only needed to barely dip the leaf in – and it tasted pretty tasty like the thinnest snack chip even without the dip.
Snack of Crispy Leaves, Walnut Oil, and Pickled Walnut Leaves at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Snack of Crispy Leaves, Walnut Oil, and Pickled Walnut Leaves at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Snack of Crispy Leaves, Walnut Oil, and Pickled Walnut Leaves at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Snack of Crispy Leaves, Walnut Oil, and Pickled Walnut Leaves at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

“Razor Clam” with Minerals and Sour Cream
This fun dish is a visual play because there is no shell here, just a cracker to give the appearance of a clam shell here – think about the amount of effort to make this smaller then a pinky finger bite.
'Razor Clam' with Minerals and Sour Cream snack at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen 'Razor Clam' with Minerals and Sour Cream snack at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen 'Razor Clam' with Minerals and Sour Cream snack at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

Soup from Dried Ceps with Pear and Walnuts
This came as just a bowl with the pear and walnut first, and then the soup, which was incredibly fragrant, was poured into the bowl. I think I was just inhaling the aromas for a minute or so before finally diving in for little sips from the spoon. It was a perfect embodiment of autumn with the sweetness of the pears and the savory creamy soup with chewyness from walnuts.
Snack of Soup from Dried Ceps with Pear and Walnuts at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Snack of Soup from Dried Ceps with Pear and Walnuts at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

Now it was time for my first juice pairing: Green Apple and Lemon Thyme. It was created right in front of me and is basically a take on a Lemon Drop cocktail but without the alcohol.
Juice pairing of Green Apple and Lemon Thyme at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Juice pairing of Green Apple and Lemon Thyme at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Juice pairing of Green Apple and Lemon Thyme at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

“Beetroot Stone” Scallop and Horseradish
Although this dish is only a few bites, it is definitely worth savoring for how beautiful it is. The scallop is cured and then surrounded with the beet root, and you dip the scallop into the horseradish sauce. This is a perfect example of how a dish is more then the food and becomes an art piece that you interact with as you take the steps to destroy it! This was one of my favorite dishes of the meal.
Snack of 'Beetroot Stone' Scallop and Horseradish at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Snack of 'Beetroot Stone' Scallop and Horseradish at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Snack of 'Beetroot Stone' Scallop and Horseradish at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Snack of 'Beetroot Stone' Scallop and Horseradish at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

Dishes

Celeriac, Dried Mussels, Söl and Juice from Smoked Yoghurt
This dish was a surprise in texture – in the first photo you can see the original Icelandic dulse (söl) that is used in the dish, and in the actual dish it felt a bit like a thin firm jello but also had the chewy and crispy toppings, which you can see put together on the spoon better then in the dish which looked like you can just scoop out, but you had to cut out because of the gel texture.
Celeriac, Dried Mussels, Söl and Juice from Smoked Yoghurt at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Celeriac, Dried Mussels, Söl and Juice from Smoked Yoghurt at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Celeriac, Dried Mussels, Söl and Juice from Smoked Yoghurt at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

Time for the next juice pairing- this was one of my favorite because it was very refreshing and felt very digestive, a Green Tea and Tarragon drink. It is inspiring me to try adding herbs to my tea at home.
Juice pairing/non alcoholic beverage pairing of Green Tea and Tarragon at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

Dried and Creamy Trout and Juice from Fermented and Grilled Cauliflower
There is some food creation magic happening in the kitchens here – how else can you explain how trout can be dried and turned into threads that are soft and fluffy?
Course of Dried and Creamy Trout and Juice from Fermented and Grilled Cauliflower at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Course of Dried and Creamy Trout and Juice from Fermented and Grilled Cauliflower at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Course of Dried and Creamy Trout and Juice from Fermented and Grilled Cauliflower at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Course of Dried and Creamy Trout and Juice from Fermented and Grilled Cauliflower at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

“Marbled” Hake Caviar and Buttermilk
The topping is crispy fish scale – this was one of my favorite dishes of the meal.

'Marbled' Hake Caviar and Buttermilk course at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen 'Marbled' Hake Caviar and Buttermilk course at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

The next juice pairing was Apple, Jerusalem Artichoke, and Oolong Tea. I really dig this idea of mixing together teas and fruits.
Apple, Jerusalem Artichoke, and Oolong Tea juice pairing at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

Now was a set of three breads, Crispy Grains, Bread with Old Grains, and Bread with Seeds. The crispy cracker is made with cheese, and old grain bread with heirloom local grains, and the seeds are pumpkin I believe and that one is gluten-free. Even though they try to serve this later so guests don’t get filled upon bread and butter, it’s hard to hold back and only eat one of each because they are really good, and I remember the old grain bread was still warm.
Crispy Grains, Bread with Old Grains, and Bread with Seeds at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Crispy Grains, Bread with Old Grains, and Bread with Seeds at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Crispy Grains, Bread with Old Grains, and Bread with Seeds at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Crispy Grains, Bread with Old Grains, and Bread with Seeds at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen
Crispy Grains, Bread with Old Grains, and Bread with Seeds at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Crispy Grains, Bread with Old Grains, and Bread with Seeds at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

A few moments after the breads were dropped off, this dish of Pickled Onions, Onion Plants, and Melted “Vesterhavs” Cheese was plated by pouring the cheese sauce/soup before me. I loved the texture of the thick fondue with strong cheese flavor against the crispy vegetal flavors and texture.
Pickled Onions, Onion Plants, and Melted 'Vesterhavs' Cheese dish at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

Pickled Onions, Onion Plants, and Melted 'Vesterhavs' Cheese dish at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Pickled Onions, Onion Plants, and Melted 'Vesterhavs' Cheese dish at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen
It is probably a little hard to see the little onion “bowls” and how they cup the cheese sauce so I took a photo detail shot from my spoon too so you can better imagine the experience of this dish. It was a continuous visual art show I tell you this meal.
Pickled Onions, Onion Plants, and Melted 'Vesterhavs' Cheese dish at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Pickled Onions, Onion Plants, and Melted 'Vesterhavs' Cheese dish at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

Next juice pairing, the juicy Cherry and Söl that reminded me lot of a beaujolais nouveau wine
Cherry and Söl juice pairing at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

Grilled Limfjord’s Oyster, Cream Cheese and Cabbage
This was probably my least favorite course because it was very herbaceous and vegetal in flavor – haha so too salad-y for me.
Grilled Limfjord's Oyster, Cream Cheese and Cabbage at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

Another juice pairing that looks so much like wine but is non-alcoholic, this juice pairing of Blackberries and Beech Wood had smoked beech wood giving it a smoky flavor that made this an excellent pairing to the only meat dish of the whole meal that is coming up. If non-alcoholic pairings can offer flavors like this I can easily see foregoing alcohol more often.
Non-alcoholic juice pairing of Blackberries and Beech Wood at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

Wild Duck, Pickled Blackcurrant Leaves, Juniper and Aromatic Herbs
Its amazing to think that for this entire set of courses, only one meat dish is needed thanks to the bounty of Scandanavian seafood and vegetables available. The initial green sauce was potently vegetal and I preferred the gravy that was added made from reducing the savory pan drippings. I probably sound like I don’t like vegetables but I do… But I don’t like raw salad as much because I really notice the grassy and bitter flavors.
Wild Duck, Pickled Blackcurrant Leaves, Juniper and Aromatic Herbs course, the only meat course at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

Wild Duck, Pickled Blackcurrant Leaves, Juniper and Aromatic Herbs course, the only meat course at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Wild Duck, Pickled Blackcurrant Leaves, Juniper and Aromatic Herbs course, the only meat course at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

Before dessert, I was invited to take a tour of the restaurant including the back kitchens. It was mind blowing to see how clean and also how big the kitchens are behind the scenes of the plating stage everyone can see from the dining room, and that this really is located with a view in the kitchen into the stadium. There is a whole room just for those working on the breads and desserts.
Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

I learned that the staff is divided into teams that always work together for a whole service that includes lunch and dinner for the day so that they really gel in knowing their tasks and timing everything precisely. I also got to observe how much care they have for their dishware – everything does go into a powerful dishwasher but afterwards staff painstakingly will individually wipe down each dish and in storage, even for the next use, involves sometimes carefully wrapping each in paper or bubble wrap between service.

The wines cellar is impressive for its diversity that includes making sure there are also affordable wines available, and there are stickers on each individual bottle to track them.
Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

The entire atmosphere was that of people who had a lot of experience and therefore calmness and confidence in executing the experience for us the guests. I never heard a raised voice from any staff the entire service, never saw anyone walk quickly or and even small snafus seemed imperceptible. At one point someone behind in the kitchen communicated to my server he needed to shake my drink more before pouring it but I don’t even know how that was noticed or signaled.

Overall this expertise of the team also seemed to give a vibe of comfort so just like the restaurant atmosphere, although everything looks expensive and sophisticated, it isn’t pretentious and has breathing room for friendliness and a little relaxed though definitely not casual. You feel taken care of. From asking about the team dynamics though, it does seem the kitchen and server team is very hierarchical though, and tasks are very specifically assigned so that they do become experts – but mainly in those dishes and they don’t know as much about other dishes or any of the beverage service details.

As part of the tour one of the chefs showed me where they age and cure meats, and let me taste some works in progress including a bonito ham.
Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

Thank goodness for the little walk because I was definitely already feeling full, and there was still dessert to come. As I mentioned earlier in the post, this was my big meal for the day – I was verging on uncomfortably full after this meal and had to sit a while to digest before I could even leave to my next destination (Tivoli, which I will cover in a future Travel Tuesday in a post),  and when I got there for a while the sights and smells of additional food made me feel a little sick. Maybe I should have skipped breakfast that morning knowing about this lunch – but I thought I had a light breakfast. Don’t worry I got over this fullness by the next morning. Even though all these plates look tiny, rest assured you will be satiated.

Ok, on to the final stretch.

Desserts

A Bite of Beetroot, Blackcurrant, Yoghurt and Tagetes
This initial bite, which I was instructed to take all at once, reminded me a bit of a macaron
Dessert of A Bite of Beetroot, Blackcurrant, Yoghurt and Tagetes at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Dessert of A Bite of Beetroot, Blackcurrant, Yoghurt and Tagetes at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Dessert of A Bite of Beetroot, Blackcurrant, Yoghurt and Tagetes at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

The next juice pairing, called Wood Sorrel, was my least favorite because this along with the next dish just overall was too vegetal-y for me as well, so it had an undertone of bitterness I didn’t care for. This is the second juice that is made almost like a cocktail tableside, in this case it is a twist in a mojito but by muddling herbs and adding fresh lemon juice and and herb oils. Paired with the next dish the two were just too similar in flavors and I would have wanted more of a contrast,
Wood Sorrel juice pairing at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Wood Sorrel juice pairing at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

Herbs of the Forest
This winner of the dessert plating competition includes a branch at the top you have to break to the frozen rose below, with everything made from herbs.
Dessert course called Herbs of the Forest at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Dessert course called Herbs of the Forest at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

As I internally groaned, here comes the last juice pairing, the Sparkling Cloudberries. I did have to leave this and the last beverage behind because I could not finish them. The foam did calm down after a while, I just forgot to take a second photo after it did.
Sparkling Cloudberries, one of the non alcoholic juice pairings at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

Caramel with Roasted Grains and Frozen Chamomile Tea
I really liked the textures and nutty caramel flavors of this dessert contrasted with the tea – roasted grains needs to be more of a topping instead of nuts – how do I start this trend happening?
Caramel with Roasted Grains and Frozen Chamomile Tea dessert at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Caramel with Roasted Grains and Frozen Chamomile Tea dessert at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

Fallen Apples, Ice Cream from Beeswax and Pollen with Crispy Honey

The intensity of the apples in the bowl was a big contrast to the creamy beeswax ice cream with a layer of pollen powder and the crispy cracker that I tried to take little nibbles from.
Fallen Apples, Ice Cream from Beeswax and Pollen with Crispy Honey dessert at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Fallen Apples, Ice Cream from Beeswax and Pollen with Crispy Honey dessert at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Fallen Apples, Ice Cream from Beeswax and Pollen with Crispy Honey dessert at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen Fallen Apples, Ice Cream from Beeswax and Pollen with Crispy Honey dessert at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

Sweets

These were surprise additional bites that were not on the initial menu letter given at the beginning of the meal. Later, at the end of the meal, they did provide me with a second menu that listed everything, including my juice pairings, and that listed these.
Green Egg with Pine and Marshmallow with Mint Flowers and Rosehip Petals sweets at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

Green Egg with Pine
This is essentially a chocolate shell with gooey filling inside of berry
Green Egg with Pine sweet at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

Marshmallow with Mint Flowers and Rosehip Petals
This was a great finish of a light sweet bite to end the meal
Marshmallow with Mint Flowers and Rosehip Petals sweet at Geranium, a three Michelin star restaurant in Copenhagen

Geranium is the first and the only Michelin 3 star restaurant in Denmark. After having experienced it, I am not surprised, it is operating at that caliber. Meals like this are ones I am going to remember for a long time – maybe not specific ingredients, but specific experiences like the beetrock scallop, the marbled Hake, the inspiration of the mushroom pear walnut soup or adding herbs or fruits to tea. Meals like these are why I originally started taking food photos – to be able to look back on the visual memories in the equivalent of foodie souvinier postcards to myself.

Which of these dishes or drinks most intrigues you? Would you ever splurge on a meal like this?

More from my adventures in Copenhagen (will be linked once posts are live)

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