More Zero Proof Dinner at Feast 2019

I was fortunate to snag tickets to one of the dinner series events, More Zero Proof Dinner at Feast 2019. Last year was the first edition of this dinner, and they decided to offer version 2.0 in 2019. Similar to last year, it features a roster of sober chefs and mixologists, and the food and drink pairings are all non-alcoholic, or zero proof – or as sober bar veteran Eric Nelson of Eem, who provided the beverage ideas for the dinner, prefers to call them, clear headed drinks. This is, as he explained, because using terms like non, or zero, sound negative like something is missing. And there is definitely nothing missing from any part of this dinner or the drinks at The Nightwood.

Although the event officially listed eight chefs contributing to the meal, in a surprise twist Andrew Zimmern (who was a participating chef in last year’s dinner) also was present this evening filming the dinner for his show. So perhaps you will see an episode on this dinner in the future. It did mean there were a lot of cameras and floating mikes in the kitchen and overall everywhere, which made the dinner a bit chaotic, and there were some shots and interviews (such as below with Dana Cowin) making the space feel crowded.

In the meantime, you can read more background on the dinner and the founding chefs of Gabriel Rucker and Gregory Gourdet at this feature by USA Today. From last year you can read my recap of that dinner as well from my blog post last year, as well as some thoughts from the lyrical Karen Brooks of Portland Monthly. With new and returning sober chefs on the roster, the accumulated years of sobriety in the kitchen increased from last year’s 57 years to I believe 92 years this time.

In the year since the inaugural Zero Proof dinner, the sobriety and wellness movement has gained more traction, with the new organization called Ben’s Friends offering a support group for the industry. A new trend has also been more beverages being added to the menus in restaurants and bars to support wellness while still standing up to all the layers of flavors of cocktails and offering all the pairing possibilities like wine and beer. You can see for yourself in my recap below of the More Zero Proof Dinner at Feast 2019 at all the happiness you can have without a drop of alcohol.

Appetizers

We were welcomed with some passed appetizers along with a form of sparkling beverage made with Mango, Yunnan Silver White Tea, and Champagne Acid. You will notice a theme with the beverages concocted by the Drinks Team tonight as all will have tea component because for this dinner, Smith Teamakers was a sponsor.

Foie Gras and Mushroom Raviolini en Brodo, by Patrick McKee, Estes was my favorite of the appetizers. I may have had three – sorry but not sorry. If you haven’t dined at his residential pop-up inside Dame natural wine bar, go. The food he serves up has the comfort and care of family (some of them literally his takes his family memories) with a focused Italian theme.

There were also bites of Corn Biscuit with Tomato and Hollandaise, by Gina Helvie, representing local brunch gem Trinket.

And the silky Kusshi Oyster with Chorizo Rioja relish, by Eric Joppie, Olympia Provisions.

First Course

Next we watched the bartenders fill up 72 coconuts with the next beverage, a concoction of Snowfield Oolong, Coconut Water, Licorice, and Juniper. It was so refreshing that many of us, even as we tried to hold ourselves back to save room for the dinner, couldn’t help but finish our coconut. I wish this could get bottled up and drink it all time time. The tiki whimsy of the coconut drink is very signature Eric which I’ve witnessed during his Shipwreck popups and are very present on the Eem beverage menu now.

The first course was Albacore, Smoked Tomato, Plum, Huckleberry and Nori, from Matthew Jennings, Full Heart Hospitality at Charlotte, VT. It was a great pairing with the coconut drink because the dish had a surprising hint of spice that got cooled off from the coconut water drink. The clean flavors of the melt in your mouth albacore with its nori crust stood on its own even with the dressing that balanced acidity without turning into either ceviche or poke. The flavor combination mystified me in an enjoyable way.

Second Course

The flavors continued to be fireworks with the next course of Slow Cooked Salmon, Tomato, Fermented Turnip, XO, Olympia Provisions Lap Cheong Jus, from Gregory Gourdet, Departure. The Lap Cheong is a special edition Feast Fab Collaboration of Gregory Gourdet and Olympia Provisions of traditional Chinese sausage made with tamari, rice wine, sichuan peppercorn, and 7 spice that is fermented then smoked. It is available to the public at New Seasons too for a while, with New Seasons donating a portion of proceeds from all items to Partners for a Hunger-Free Oregon and Urban Gleaners, the two main Feast PDX charity partners.

This dish was paired with a beverage of Tomato, Dill, Beet, Baking Spice Shu Cha Pu-erh Fermented Black Tea, and Soda – you see it before it gets mixed below in the photo. The salmon was perfect cooked, and so many different flavors varying from sour to spicy that was grounded by the earthiness in the drink.

Third Course

Next up was the course I thought was my favorite, IMHO. Pigeon, Foie Gras Dumplings, Toasted Corn Broth from Gabriel Rucker, Le Pigeon. Paired with a drink of Snap pea, Rose City Genmaicha, Grapefruit, Hay which as a beverage by itself I found too grassy, but was perfect counter to the richness of this dish and the most cocktail like of the drinks of the night. I had given up my spoon when they cleared plates previously and similar to the last dish, desperately wished I had bread to sop up all that sauce/juice. If it had been in a bowl instead of a plate I would have definitely drank it.

Fourth Course

Dry-aged Veal, Peaches, Chanterelles from Michael Solomonov, Zahav of Philadelphia. This was served as a slice plated, and also as juicy fatty bones on wooden blocks family style. I knew I was among all food friends as I saw those bones quickly get snatched up and guests at all the tables gnawing at them. The veal was astounding – I didn’t know what to think at first with all the little grounds of seasoning on my tongue popping. During Q&A later Chef Michael mentioned that it involved doing some prep then just letting it sit and age without forgetting it for a few days?!

The tingling of the tongue from this dish was paired with the thick, almost smoothie like beverage of Turmeric, Pineapple, Vinegar, OJ, Coconut, Zheng Shan Smoked Black Tea, and Star Anise.

Fifth Course

One criticism I have of these Feast collaboration dinners are that they are always long – think about 3 hours. I was getting pretty full by this time, but heroically attempted to make room for the dessert of Lemon Buttermilk Pie, Cornflake Crunch, Apple Butter, Fresh Apple, Salted Pecan Ice Cream, from Callie Speer, Holly Roller. Those cornflakes really made the dish.

Meanwhile, Eric had the gleeful idea for the whole restaurant – all the guests, including chefs, to do “shots” together to end our meal – that is a clear headed drink of Chocolate, Cashew Cream Cheese, Lord Bergamot Earl Grey. Just because there is no alcohol definitely does not mean we can’t still all have fun and bonding with drinks.

The one thing I really missed from this dinner versus last year is I wished everyone had a chance to talk about the thoughts behind their dish. I would have liked to hear what made them select the dish or drink served. On the plus side, the move to the Nightwood meant unlike last year, we were not interrupted by trains going by.

The Nightwood’s kitchen is smaller then last year’s but also closer to the dining tables so we got to see that there was plating action even if it was glimpses through people’s backs surrounding the kitchen island. The filming seemed to also gave a different feel than last year which had more moments I noticed of the chefs talking and patting and hugging support. This year there seemed to be more self-awareness and bit of hard working formality in the kitchen, rather then the warmth of last year which felt like friends at a reunion. Well, I’m going to just believe that warmth and hugging still happened but not in the sight lines of the open kitchen and me.

We guests all had a chance to see the bartenders pour and shake the drinks for every course, a huge plus from last year thanks to the long bar at The Nightwood. The food was stunning in bold flavors, but the zero proof drinks really stood out this year for me in their originality and diversity. How playful it was to have these clear headed drinks instead of wine or beer and if these had been cocktails with alcohol there’s no way we could have tried this many libations.

Overall this dinner underscore for me that the natural highs from new experiences in food and drink adventures, the appreciation of culinary arts by these creators in the kitchen and bar, of being connected with others during this dinner together in this dinner and life journey, and being fully present and appreciative of all of these – this feels better and more memorable then drugs and alcohol can make you feel.

Last year the dinner experience was emotional, with the release of talking about a secret that used to be a shame and unburdening that weight with each other. This year felt like 100 people in a room grasping each other’s hands in silent support and solidarity – progress, and hopefully, continued change.