DaNet, a Russian Dinner Party Popup

After the Sochi Winter Olympics in Russia in  2014, Vitaly Paley did a Russian pop up celebrating the Russian Sun Festival. It was incredible, and I was thrilled when he announced they would be doing DaNet, a Russian Pop Up experience in that same space (Portland Penny Diner) once or twice a month starting in September 2014 and ongoing. After holding off on attending until I completed the promise I made to myself to finish reading The Art of Soviet Cooking (I reviewed it as well), this past spring I finally was able to reward myself.

The DaNet dinner / Russian experience consists of 4 courses all at one seating at 6:30pm, where the food is served mostly family style. The cost is $75 per person plus gratuity, and you need to make reservations to secure your seat beforehand.

Although I found some articles at the Oregonian (“DaNet, Vitaly Paley’s Russian restaurant pop-up, takes us back to the USSR” by Michael Russell) and Portland Monthly (“Portland Monthly’s Cuisine of the Year 2014: Kachka and DaNet’s Russian Party” by Karen Brooks) praising the DaNet, there has been nothing recapping what the exact experience was – so I though I’d provide that service for you. That’s the freedom of writing as a blogger – I can go into the play by play details you wouldn’t find in newspapers and magazines (which is why I think news media and bloggers have a very complimentary relationship, not necessarily competitive). So here’s my recap from my experience on May 15, 2015. I believe that although the specific food items may sometimes change, the format is the same for each Russian pop-up experience.
DaNet palate cleanser between fourth and fifth (dessert) course of Beryozovy sok, a birch sap that tastes like a slightly, subtly sweetened water

The doors of Portland Penny Diner open promptly at 6:30. When you enter, check in your reservation at a table at the front. As a reward for checking in, they offer ayou choice of one of three beverages to help tide you over as you walk towards the back of the diner to one of 3 long tables.  I was immediately charmed by the apron upon walking in, and the welcome drink immediately shifted the vibe from a typical restaurant to a family gathering or party instead.
You are welcomed at DaNet, which pops up at the Portland Penny Diner twice a month, with a beverage as you check in your reservation name. I was immediately charmed by the apron just upon walking in You are welcomed at DaNet, which pops up at the Portland Penny Diner twice a month, with a beverage as you check in your reservation name. You are welcomed at DaNet, which pops up at the Portland Penny Diner twice a month, with a beverage as you check in your reservation name. I was immediately charmed by the apron just upon walking in

The Russian party concept is further reinforced as even before I can get past the first table, I am offered my first zakuski as a passed hors d’oeuvre, one not listed on the menu – it was some sort of fried dumpling, a kind of beef piroshky (or piroshki? I don’t know whether it’s an i or a y…).
DaNet, a Russian Dinner Party which pops up at the Portland Penny Diner twice a month. Fried beef piroshky is passed as people are finding their assigned seats DaNet, a Russian Dinner Party which pops up at the Portland Penny Diner twice a month. Fried beef piroshky is passed as people are finding their assigned seats

Meanwhile, as you walk through the long room, you can admire the tchotchkes lining the small countertop on your rightside. Real Russian traditional tchotchkes – all random decorative trinkets like nesting dolls and wooden lacquered containers that you wouldn’t actually use because they are too pretty to function. Well, except for the tea-set you see there – you will actually see that used later tonight. I always get a kick out of the political nesting dolls with Yeltsin, Gorbachev, Brezhnev, and Stalin.
Check out some of the tchotchkes along the countertop as you walk towards the tables of DaNet Russian Pop Up Check out some of the tchotchkes along the countertop as you walk towards the tables of DaNet Russian Pop Up- I always get a kick out of the nesting dolls with Yeltsin, Gorbachev, Brezhnev, Stalin

The various decorative tchotchkes all around are the epitome of the strange mix of the traditional Motherland Russia that are remnants of Imperial Russia, as well as the era of the red Soviet Union. Neither of these personify modern Russia and Union Soviet Socialist Republics, but they are still vivid memories and indelibly part of the culture now. On your left is an impressive DaNet ice sculpture. As you head towards the back, Soviet Union era posters are on the wall, as well as lots of candles and a few Russian cookbooks.
Check out some of the tchotchkes along the countertop as you walk towards the tables of DaNet Russian Pop Up DaNet ice sculpture on the bar at the Russian Pop up at Portland Penny Diner Soviet Union era posters along the back wall of Portland Penny Diner during the DaNet popup Soviet Union era posters along with some Russian culinary books along the back wall of Portland Penny Diner during the DaNet popup

As you walk past the tables, look carefully for your assigned seats for your dining reservation, marked by a little sheet stating simply “xxx Party” at each of the designated seats.
DaNet Russian Pop up Experience - find your assigned seats for your dining party at one of the communal tables DaNet Russian Pop up Experience - find your assigned seats for your dining party at one of the communal tables

Peruse the menus at your seat – one sheet lists the whole dinner so you can begin to fortify yourself for the big meal that is about to come. While the dinner menu refers to one course of “zakuski”, a second menu sheet lists the bounty of what that zakuski actually consists of and you will see that this one “drinking foods” course is actually more like 5 appetizers! You should expect this, as seems to be a Russian custom, you will be served dishes and dishes of food until you are completely and uncomfortably full.

On the back of the dinner menu are a list of optional (at extra cost from the $75 set dinner price) beverages. Should you want to partake in vodka (highly recommended), they have flights of regular vodka, as well as infused vodkas such as horseradish dill vodka, or elderberry vodka. If straight vodka is a bit intimidating (you can choose to share among your dinner party of course), consider the cocktails as the mix of other liquids in the glass help round out the punch of vodka. You can also choose instead to have a matching wine pairing flight with each course. A server will come to your table to introduce herself or himself, and take your drink order.

The first course are the zakuski, which are traditional drinking foods – aka this is the perfect time to get your vodka on. I prefer the flavored vodkas, which I think is a middle ground between the straight vodka (but the more authentic experience) and the cocktails. It is expected that you take little sips of the vodka, and bites of your zakuski.

Chef Vitaly Paley was our guide throughout the night, ringing a little bell his mother had suggested in order to get everyone’s attention before introducing each course and describing the individual food items. I wish he could have talked longer as we were eating each item so I could look and see and think about each food item as he was telling us the history of it, and more about how it was made. To me, this felt like more than just a chef listing what food was on the menu for each course, but like a tour that we were taking to a country we were not familiar with, done via food. So I kept wanting to hear more, not much different from wanting to hear the tales of the old country from your parents or uncles or grandparents.
Vitaly Paley was our guide through the courses at DaNet, the Russian Pop Up experience. Here he is chatting about the zakuski

Meanwhile, kind Chef Paley seems worried about us being hungry and waiting during these intros to the courses (except for the kulebyaka, which is is super proud to tell us about and introduce us to) and tries to not draw our attention too long with him talking. So he goes over details pretty fast so listen up when he speaks! He’s done quite  a few of these, yet still seems endearingly a bit nervous about the right amount of story to share. I understand a bit – he actually has a similar background to author Anya van Bremzen who wrote the memoir Art of Soviet Cooking I just read.  He too, immigrated from the former Soviet Union and was a concert pianist, but then ended up turning to cooking and excelling in it at an international level  (it is really weird that this is her exact story as well, though they come from different cities in former USSR. Not surprising to hear they are friends.). And from her memoir, it seems Russian immigrants have a complex love and hate relationship with the memory of the Soviet Union.

In fact, just look at the name of the popup overall, DaNet. Da means yes in Russian, and Net means no, so putting them together like DaNet (Да Нет) has a meaning of similar to “yes I agree, but no I also disagree, and even though you might think I am therefore neutral I disagree more than agree.” So the phrase together ultimately means no, a softer no than an outright no, and an illustration of the craziness of an everyday Russian phrase that uses two opposite words but still means something. Complicated, mixed feelings here! Anyway, on to the food recap!

First Course

On my dinner night, the zakuski included Solenya (Russian word for pickles), Ash roasted beet pkhali, Traditional Blini served with sour cream and dill, melted butter and seawater cured caviar (of course this was my favorite zakuski), Salade Olivier (a Russian salad with potatoes and vegetables and mayo and whose specific ingredients vary from family to family and is listed as one of the 1001 foods to die for, just like the Blini and Caviar dish). The acidity of the various types of Solenya (each one varying in sourness) were a great counterpoint to the richness of the heavier Salade Olivier and the rich Blini you assemble yourself. If you think you don’t like beets, try the ash roasted beet pkhali anyway as you may be surprised. The Blini pancakes are generously sized like medium pancakes!
Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Solenya (Russian word for pickles) Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Ash roasted beet pkhali Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Solenya (Russian word for pickles) and Ash roasted beet pkhali Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Traditional Blini served with sour cream and dill, melted butter and seawater cured caviar Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Traditional Blini served with sour cream and dill, melted butter and seawater cured caviar Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Salade Olivier

Nope, the list for the first course is still going, the zakuski also included buterbrodi, which are open faced sandwiches with butter and other toppings – we got four different kinds, of which I can no longer read my handwriting on what I wrote what they were – but all were delicious, and I have a little heart drawn next to the duck one (the one at the very top of the buterbrodi platter in the second photo – and the only one I got seconds of).
Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. We were served four types of buterbrodi, here being described by Vitaly Paley as Karen Brooks dutifully takes notes Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. We were served four types of buterbrodi Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. We were served four types of buterbrodi

As the second bonus of the night already (still on course 1 of zakuski here), Chef Paley had brought some special garlic sausages from his last trip to New York, and generously shared it with us at the dinner, served with a bit of horseradish. I was having a hard time fitting everything on my plate!
Vitaly Paley explained this bonus zakuski (not listed on the menu) was a special garlic sausage he had brought back with him from New York. It is served here with horseradish Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Solenya (Russian word for pickles), Traditional Blini (served with sour cream, dill, and seawater cured caviar), ash roasted beet pkhali, and salade olivier, and four types of buterbrodi (open faced bread and butter sandwiches). Zakuski, variety of Russian drinking appetizers at DaNet. Solenya (Russian word for pickles), Traditional Blini (served with sour cream, dill, and seawater cured caviar), ash roasted beet pkhali, and salade olivier, and four types of buterbrodi (open faced bread and butter sandwiches). Here's a look at my favorite 3 zakuski

Second Course

Time for stew. For this dinner, it was Schi Bogatye and Kartorelkye Klyotski, a game broth and ash roasted cabbage stew with potato dumplings, with chives and herbs to add on top as garnish. The schi was served also with Buckwheat Rastegai (that bread with the hole at the top), and also Red Kraut Piroshki (those had no hole). The rastegai has an open center into which you traditionally could pour some of the stew – though in this case, it seemed the hole was too small for such an action.
DaNet Second course was Schi Bogatye and a Kartorelkye Klyotski, a game broth and ash roasted cabbage stew with potato dumplings. It was served also with Rastegai, and also Red Kraut Piroshki DaNet Second course was Schi Bogatye and a Kartorelkye Klyotski, a game broth and ash roasted cabbage stew with potato dumplings. It was served also with Rastegai, and also Red Kraut Piroshki DaNet Second course was Schi Bogatye and a Kartorelkye Klyotski, a game broth and ash roasted cabbage stew with potato dumplings. It was served also with Rastegai, and also Red Kraut Piroshki

It may just seem like soup with some filled dumpling bread on the side, but that schi has great texture, lots of layers of flavors, and is quite filling. And there were lots of extra red kraut piroshki on the side too – make sure you add a little spoonful of that side of sour cream to the schi.
DaNet Second course was Schi Bogatye and a Kartorelkye Klyotski, a game broth and ash roasted cabbage stew with potato dumplings. It was served also with Rastegai, and also Red Kraut Piroshki DaNet Second course offered lots of Red Kraut Piroshki - at my end of the table we added the sour cream to the Schi too

Third Course

Ooof, now time for the third course. I was already starting to get pretty full, but tried to soldier on with my comrades at my table. This was a significantly important  dish. I know this because Chef Paley became Professor and proud host as he read to us from 1,000 Foods to Eat Before You Die: A Food Lover’s Life List about kulebyaka, as mentioned in multiple Russian literature and food books before the big presentation. Then the kulebyaka was presented at each table for guest admiration and photos before being cut up for individual plating.
At DaNet, Vitaly Paley reads to us about kulebyaka before the big presentation of the DaNet Third course. Kulybyaka (King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings) is presented before it is cut for individual plate service At DaNet, Vitaly Paley reads to us about kulebyaka before the big presentation of the DaNet Third course. Kulybyaka (King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings) is presented before it is cut for individual plate service

I really wanted to take a photo as he was reading but felt bad about standing up to go to the kitchen area (only a few feet away), but thankfully Karen Brooks got up first, so I totally followed her. This is a really painstaking, ardous dish to make – Chef Paley confessed this took several days to prepare.
At DaNet, Vitaly Paley reads to us about kulebyaka before the big presentation of the DaNet Third course. Kulybyaka (King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings) is presented before it is cut for individual plate service

Tonight, the kulebyaka came as King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings. The inside of the kulebyaka was fabulous, but I was hoping for more buttery goodness from the pastry after Chef Paley had read to us about how Anton Chekhov had described that

“the kulebyaka must make your mouth water, it must lie there before you – a shameless temptation…butter drips like tears, and the filling is fat, juicy, rich…”

So being a lover of butter, I really was looking for some more butter. Of course, I am also the type of person who empties the entire butter container when eating lobster with butter, and can eat radishes with little pats of butter. The morels were exquisite, and I saved and savored them dividing them carefully among my bites along with the accompanying heavenly roll your eyes back sauce (I wanted twice as much) and crispy viziga crackling.

The viziga is a very rare specialty, the spinal cord marrow of a sturgeon. I don’t know what trials were needed to extract this (since exact specifications were not detailed in historical recipes, and a dish this gourmet like kulebyaka or viziga would have been viewed as czarist and a target of Soviet class warfare). I don’t know  what then further mysterious technique then would transform that gelatinous delicacy into these crackling vaguely reminiscent of the best lil nuggets of fried chicken skin… But it’s mouth magic.
DaNet Third course. Kulybyaka (King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings) DaNet Third course. Kulybyaka (King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings) DaNet Third course. Kulybyaka (King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings) DaNet Third course. Kulybyaka (King Salmon with Sturgeon Cheek Porcini Pie with morel and sour cream dill sauce and viziga cracklings)

Fourth Course

After a little palate cleanser between the last and this course of Beryozovy sok, a birch sap (it tastes like water with a subtle sweet taste to it), came the dessert platters with tea service. The Chai black tea from Samovar comes with accompaniments like sugars and jam (!) to sweeten the tea.
Dessert course is served with Chai black tea from Samovar with accompaniments like sugars and jam to sweeten the tea

Four desserts! I don’t know if I got all these names right, so forgive me:

  • Baked Milk Ice Cream on a Stick (Toplyonoye Moloko Eskimo) – my favorite of the four
  • Bird’s Milk Cookies (Ptychye Moloko)
  • Rhubarb Jam Stuffed Donuts (Ponchiki S Varenyem)
  • Chef Vitaly Paley’s mom’s Cacao and sour cream layer torte (Steopka)

Dessert course includes Baked Milk Ice Cream on a Stick (Toplyonoye Moloko Eskimo), Bird's Milk Cookies (Ptychye Moloko), Rhubarb Jam Stuffed Donuts (Ponchiki S Varenyem), and Vitaly Paley's mom's Cacao and sour cream layer torte (Steopka), served with Chai black tea from Samovar with accompaniments like sugars and jam to sweeten the tea DaNet Dessert course includes Rhubarb Jam Stuffed Donuts (Ponchiki S Varenyem), and Vitaly Paley's mom's Cacao and sour cream layer torte (Steopka) DaNet Dessert course includes Baked Milk Ice Cream on a Stick (Toplyonoye Moloko Eskimo) and Bird's Milk Cookies (Ptychye Moloko)

The final and last time my plate was full of an assortment of goodness – it started and ended that way.
DaNet Dessert course includes Baked Milk Ice Cream on a Stick (Toplyonoye Moloko Eskimo), Bird's Milk Cookies (Ptychye Moloko), Rhubarb Jam Stuffed Donuts (Ponchiki S Varenyem), and Vitaly Paley's mom's Cacao and sour cream layer torte (Steopka), served with Chai black tea from Samovar with accompaniments like sugars and jam to sweeten the tea DaNet Dessert course includes Baked Milk Ice Cream on a Stick (Toplyonoye Moloko Eskimo), Bird's Milk Cookies (Ptychye Moloko), Rhubarb Jam Stuffed Donuts (Ponchiki S Varenyem), and Vitaly Paley's mom's Cacao and sour cream layer torte (Steopka), served with Chai black tea from Samovar with accompaniments like sugars and jam to sweeten the tea

You can make reservations now for DaNet, which it seems for the summer is scaled back to only popping up once a month – and June has already sold out 3 weeks ahead of time! To reserve your space for July or August, contact Imperial at (503) 228-7222. See the DaNet website for more details on dates.

If you have the opportunity, II really enjoyed the way that I set the experience up for myself- that is, making myself read the Art of Soviet Cooking before coming to this popup. Reading a bit before gave me a lot more context behind so many of the things I saw and ate (in particular, Anya has her first chapter in which she talks a great deal about kulebyaka). But, I also think this is a great Russian dinner experience even without the book. The communal adventure of sitting with others and meeting/talking with them while sharing dishes family style, together learning through the guide of Chef Paley, plus the expert technical culinary execution combined with the labor of love of this complicated food… This is a Russian party that you will be hard pressed to find unless you find some immigrant friends who are willing and able to spend so many days and so much time to create these all these dishes.

Have you had Russian food before?

Signature

Stray Birds by Stray Dogs PDX

Every Monday in May, Stray Dogs PDX (link to their Facebook account because sorry, their website is terribly uninformative and outdated), usually known for their popping up at various restaurants with their fancy take on hot dogs, has been hosting a Stray Birds concept at Beast. Nomadic chefs Peter Cho and Johnny Leach (aka the “Strays” as they have no brick and mortar home yet) for Stray Birds change the focus from Dogs (hot dogs) instead to Birds – which in this case, means Korean Fried Chicken (aka the real KFC).
Stray Birds, a pop up at Beast by Stray Dogs PDX in May 2015 on Mondays led by Stray chefs Peter Cho and Johnny Leach. The 3 courses + beer for $35 was inclusive, but there were alternate drinks also available for purchase additionally, like a bottle or shot of Chamisul Sojo or a bottle of Makgeolli, or cans of Asahi or Oriental Brewery Beer.

Oh, sold! I’m sold! I loooove Korean Fried Chicken because it’s always crispy on the outside with a glaze that is both spicy and sweet, and succulent and juicy on the inside. It’s not something you can easily find in Portland.

So after an email to straydogsPDX at gmail.com, we secured our reservations for an opening during their service from 5:30-9:30pm. For $35, three courses and a beer equaled on my visit

Beer: Rainier Beer Lager in a can
There were alternate drinks also available for purchase additionally, like a bottle or shot of Chamisul Sojo or a bottle of Makgeolli, or cans of Asahi or Oriental Brewery Beer.
Rainier Beer at Stray Birds, a pop up at Beast by Stray Dogs PDX in May 2015. The $35 included dinner and this beer Rainier Beer at Stray Birds, a pop up at Beast by Stray Dogs PDX in May 2015. The $35 included dinner and this beer

Course 1: Bibim Gooksu

Bibim Gooksu, a cold buckwheat soba noodles with kholrabi, cucumbers and nori with chicken clam and pineapple dashi
Bibim Gooksu, a cold buckwheat soba noodles with kholrabi, cucumbers and nori with chicken clam and pineapple dashi at Stray Birds, a pop up by Stray Dogs PDX in May 2015 Bibim Gooksu, a cold buckwheat soba noodles with kholrabi, cucumbers and nori with chicken clam and pineapple dashi at Stray Birds, a pop up by Stray Dogs PDX in May 2015

Course 2: Korean Fried Stray Bird

The glorious main protein of korean fried stray bird, 1/2 chicken with gochujang and tamarind glaze. You will need the moist towelettes they also give you, and I appreciated that they gave a bone bin.
Course 2: The glorious korean fried stray bird, 1/2 chicken with gochujang and tamarind glaze at Stray Birds, a pop up by Stray Dogs PDX in May 2015 Course 2: The glorious korean fried stray bird, 1/2 chicken with gochujang and tamarind glaze at Stray Birds, a pop up by Stray Dogs PDX in May 2015

Side dish of Black Sesame Seed Corn Bread with Warm Brown Rice Syrup and Charred Ramp Butter
Course 2: one of the side dishes to the Korean Fried Stray Bird of Black Sesame Seed Corn Bread with Warm Brown Rice Syrup and Charred Ramp Butter at Stray Birds, a pop up by Stray Dogs PDX in May 2015 Course 2: one of the side dishes to the Korean Fried Stray Bird of Black Sesame Seed Corn Bread with Warm Brown Rice Syrup and Charred Ramp Butter at Stray Birds, a pop up by Stray Dogs PDX in May 2015

Side dish (Banchan basically) of a Pickle Plate with bread and butter daikon, garlic chive stuffed cucumber, and dill pickled bean sprouts and kimchee
Course 2: one of the side dishes to the Korean Fried Stray Bird of a Pickle Plate with bread and butter daikon, garlic chive stuffed cucumber, and dill pickled bean sprouts and kimchee at Stray Birds, a pop up by Stray Dogs PDX in May 2015

This second course is served family style to each dining party, which is what you would usually expect dining Korean style.
Stray Birds, a pop up at Beast by Stray Dogs PDX in May 2015 on Mondays led by Stray chefs Peter Cho and Johnny Leach

Course 3: Milk + Cookie

Two desserts of the Milk + Cookie, the koji brown rice milk bingsoo with toasted barley powder (basically a shaved ice dish), plus the choco pie with coffee marshmallow and puffed rice
Course 3: one of the two desserts of the Milk + Cookie, the koji brown rice milk bingsoo with toasted barley powder plus the choco pie with coffee marshmallow and puffed rice at Stray Birds, a pop up by Stray Dogs PDX in May 2015 Course 3: one of the two desserts of the Milk + Cookie, the choco pie with coffee marshmallow and puffed rice at Stray Birds, a pop up by Stray Dogs PDX in May 2015 Course 3: one of the two desserts of the Milk + Cookie, the koji brown rice milk bingsoo with toasted barley powder at Stray Birds, a pop up by Stray Dogs PDX in May 2015 Course 3: one of the two desserts of the Milk + Cookie, the koji brown rice milk bingsoo with toasted barley powder plus the choco pie with coffee marshmallow and puffed rice at Stray Birds, a pop up by Stray Dogs PDX in May 2015 Course 3: one of the two desserts of the Milk + Cookie, the koji brown rice milk bingsoo with toasted barley powder plus the choco pie with coffee marshmallow and puffed rice at Stray Birds, a pop up by Stray Dogs PDX in May 2015 Course 3: one of the two desserts of the Milk + Cookie, the koji brown rice milk bingsoo with toasted barley powder plus the choco pie with coffee marshmallow and puffed rice at Stray Birds, a pop up by Stray Dogs PDX in May 2015

A few shots of the staff at work. Since we had the 5:30 seating, and were literally the first guests to walk into the restaurant, I got to marvel and the beautiful tray of chicken awaiting the fryer and to have the glaze brushed on.
Stray Birds, a pop up at Beast by Stray Dogs PDX in May 2015 on Mondays led by Stray chefs Peter Cho and Johnny Leach Stray Birds, a pop up at Beast by Stray Dogs PDX in May 2015 on Mondays led by Stray chefs Peter Cho and Johnny Leach Stray Birds, a pop up at Beast by Stray Dogs PDX in May 2015 on Mondays led by Stray chefs Peter Cho and Johnny Leach Stray Birds, a pop up at Beast by Stray Dogs PDX in May 2015 on Mondays led by Stray chefs Peter Cho and Johnny Leach

I really enjoyed the chicken, and hope to visit a Stray Dog event sometime in the future. Again, if you are interested in attending one of the Stray Birds by Stray Dogs PDX pop up, they are every Monday in May at Beast, and you make your reservations ahead of time for 5:30-9:30 at straydogsPDX at Gmail dot com.

Stray Dogs is also popping up Fridays at Kitchen Cru serving their haute hot dogs for lunch only from 11:30 – 3 every Friday in May as Stray Dogs Luncheonette.  

Stray Birds, a pop up at Beast by Stray Dogs PDX in May 2015 on Mondays led by Stray chefs Peter Cho and Johnny Leach

Have you been to a Stray Dog event, or had Korean Fried Chicken?

Signature

Eggs Benedict at Zell’s Cafe

I am not sure how I missed the memo on the fact that Zell’s Cafe offers some of the best eggs benedict in Portland. This oversight has been corrected. Now I know why some of the ladies in my Pulse PDX Zumba class are regulars here. And, now I wanted to share that option in case you are looking for a nice eggs benedict to spend time with your mom or because you’re a mom- but genius, they have this everyday, not just Sunday, so you can avoid the brunch lines. 

Zell's Cafe, Portland Zell's Cafe, Portland

Yep, Zell’s serves breakfast everyday, so you don’t have to wait for weekend brunch at this neighborhood spot – you can get this any day. And, coming on a weekday means a much calmer atmosphere and no wait. Make sure you check out what specials they may have for breakfast on the chalkboard.

Zell's Cafe, Portland Zell's Cafe, Portland

Shortly after you are seated, you are greeted with complimentary little biscuity scones with butter and raspberry jam as they quickly and efficiently understood our immediate need for coffee. Nothing says being mothered as much as immediately being fed these complimentary biscuity scones upon arrival, like a buttery hug to you mouth and tummy.
Zell's Cafe greeting of complimentary mini biscuits with butter and jam Zell's Cafe greeting of complimentary mini biscuits with butter and jam

They have other offerings- waffles, pancakes, German pancakes, lots of omelettes and hashes, and what I came for, the famous Eggs Benedict. I had mine actually as Eggs Florentine, so that instead of Canadian Bacon I had spinach and tomato.

I think the photos speak for themselves.

Zell's Cafe's Eggs Benedict, which I had Florentine style wtih Bay English muffin, Canadian bacon was switched out for spinach and tomato, hollandaise sauce, served with potatoes. Zell's Cafe's Eggs Benedict, which I had Florentine style wtih Bay English muffin, Canadian bacon was switched out for spinach and tomato, hollandaise sauce, served with potatoes. Zell's Cafe's Eggs Benedict, which I had Florentine style wtih Bay English muffin, Canadian bacon was switched out for spinach and tomato, hollandaise sauce, served with potatoes. Zell's Cafe's Eggs Benedict, which I had Florentine style wtih Bay English muffin, Canadian bacon was switched out for spinach and tomato, hollandaise sauce, served with potatoes. Zell's Cafe's Eggs Benedict, which I had Florentine style wtih Bay English muffin, Canadian bacon was switched out for spinach and tomato, hollandaise sauce, served with potatoes.

Signature

Delicious Meats at Mediterranean Exploration Company

I had a big craving for some juicy succulent meat. I thought about going to a steakhouse, but what I really wanted were some small bites to satisfy my craving, and I couldn’t decide between whether I wanted steak, fried chicken, or lamb. Why not all?

Enter my stop at Mediterranean Exploration Company, also known as M.E.C. or MEC, for what I think are the best meats at Mediterranean Exploration Company’s menu. I have previously written about them during their preview party where I got to sample a lot of their dishes. I’ve since been back a few times as they’ve found their groove in the past year since opening in mid-summer. Unless you go there when the sun is up, keep in mind it’s a pretty dark, shadowed restaurant in the evenings which gives it a feel that is romantic but also a hint of old world European with its dimness and echoes of community conversation around you as part of the background of your experience.

One of my favorite cocktails I like to start off with is the Spanish Diplomat with lustau palo cortado sherry, dolin blanc vermouth, benedictine, boker’s bitters, marcona almond and orange oil. This sipper makes me feel exotic and complicated and I pretend I’m in Casablanca. The reward for finishing my glass is the almond, which is mentioned many times in the Bible, as a symbol of hope and promise and overall has a lot of ties to stories in the Mediterranean. It just seems perfect for MEC, and every time I see the cocktail I gaze at it because it seems to glow like a golden chalice.
Mediterranean Exploration Company cocktail of Spanish Diplomat with lustau palo cortado sherry. dolin blanc vermouth. benedictine. boker's bitters. marcona almond. orange oil Mediterranean Exploration Company cocktail of Spanish Diplomat with lustau palo cortado sherry. dolin blanc vermouth. benedictine. boker's bitters. marcona almond. orange oil

Another good cocktail here is the Gold Dinar cocktail, with four roses yellow bourbon, lemon, honey and aleppo pepper. Very refreshing but with a teeny bite.

So, I got a bit distracted when I ordered. I had intended to have meats, and I was thinking of ordering a tartare… but I couldn’t resist a Mezza of Hellenic Republic Saganaki with figs, olive oil, and lemon. They don’t light it on fire and shout Opa! at your table here like at many other Greek restaurants, but sharing that slightly warmed cheese doused in lemon juice is a good memory of when I used to live just a block from Greektown in Chicago, and I remember saganaki and skordalia being my first discoveries into real Greek food after fast food gyros. Sadly, on a more recent visit it seems like they took this off the menu. If you ever see it as a special of some sort, get it!
Mediterranean Exploration Company Mezza of Hellenic Republic Saganaki  with figs. olive oil. lemon.

Then it was time for the reason I was here: fried chicken, lamb, steak. The fried chicken here is a nice small dish with prefect crispy skin and soft tender moist meat inside, dished up as fried chicken with aleppo pepper and honey and a few cubes of beets. Perfect for 2 people, or at most 4 (but best with 2) – if you have more in your party, do yourselves a favor and order more than 1 order.
Mediterranean Exploration Company Fried Chicken  with aleppo pepper and honey

Same thing with this lamb, which I count among the best in Portland: simply grilled Greek lamb chops with oregano, garlic, and lemon, and you get 2 chops to your plate if you order the half order, which is what you see below. Very garlicky and always grilled perfectly to medium rare.
Mediterranean Exploration Company Greek Lamb Chops  grilled with oregano. garlic. lemon

Then on to the Hanger Steak with caper and garlic. As a side to help with the flavors of garlic and salt and fire, the Mejadara with rice, lentils, and crispy fried onion is a great choice with its fun textures of soft and crispy. The only other thing I could think of that I would have wanted to make my proteins more complete would be an order of their grilled Octopus.
Mediterranean Exploration Company, Hanger Steak with caper. garlic Mediterranean Exploration Company, Mejadara with rice. lentils. fried onion

Finish off with this dessert of amazing Cardamom Ice Cream Affogato with turkish coffee, so good and you’ll each want your own.
Mediterranean Exploration Company dessert of Cardamom Ice Cream Affogato with turkish coffee

Have you been to Mediterranean Exploration Company? Do you have a favorite dish there? And what would be more likely your craving, fried chicken, lamb chops, or steak?

Signature

Beer Pairing Dinner: The Bruery and Coquine Supper Club

Last week was the Craft Brewers Conference, which yielded 10,000+ beer industry folks visiting Portland, as well as a hundred events involving beer all week. I was able to attend one of the beer pairing dinners that was hosted at Imperial Bottle Shop and Tap Room that highlighted The Bruery and Coquine Supper Club for beer and food pairings.

Oh, I just love when drinks and food are paired together. Not only is the food great, but when paired with drinks specifically, I often find new discoveries as the food transforms with the drink, and the drink is transformed by the food.
Imperial Bottle Shop and Taproom presents The Bruery and Coquine Beer Pairing Dinner Imperial Bottle Shop and Taproom presents The Bruery and Coquine Beer Pairing Dinner.  Here for course 4, Bruery Geriatric Hipster Club - beer equivalent of an Old-Fashioned; oak, bitters, orange peel

This was a particularly special event because usually The Bruery in Orange County, California only has a small number of bottles that you see in the Portland bottleshops, and they were bringing beers I had never had the opportunity to try. Furthermore, Coquine has been operating as a pop-up supper club but this event is supposedly their last pop up dinner until they open their brick and mortar restaurant this summer.

Without further ado, here are the courses I enjoyed for dinner on Friday. I hope this is useful in perhaps inspiring you to try The Bruery, Coquine, check out Imperial Bottle Shop for more events, and/or even doing your own beer and food pairings.

Course 1

Beer: Bruery Jardiniere – a new Belgian pale ale, crisp & refreshing
Food: House made ricotta and fava bean crostini with pea blossoms and lemon (passed hors d’oeuvres)
Imperial Bottle Shop and Taproom presents The Bruery and Coquine Beer Pairing Dinner. Here, Course 1 of Jardiniere, a Belgian pale ale, crisp & refreshing paired with House made ricotta and fava bean crostini with pea blossoms and lemon

Course 2

Beer: Bruery Sourrento – a limoncello-inspired sour blonde with lemon & lactose. This was one of my favorite beers of the evening because of it’s lemony tartness.
Food: Smoked green farro with artichokes, schmaltz, and brown butter bread crumbs – just great subtle flavors and fun textures.
Imperial Bottle Shop and Taproom presents The Bruery and Coquine Beer Pairing Dinner, glass of Bruery Sourrento - a limoncello-inspired sour blonde with lemon & lactose. This was one of my favorite beers of the evening because of it's lemony tartness. Imperial Bottle Shop and Taproom presents The Bruery and Coquine Beer Pairing Dinner.  Here for course 2, Bruery Sourrento - a limoncello-inspired sour blonde with lemon & lactose paired with Smoked green farro with artichokes, schmaltz, rosemary and brown butter bread crumbs

Course 3

Beer: Bruery Loakal – an oaked American Red Ale generally only available in Orange County but brought by the brewers for this event, this is one of their more hoppy offerings with woody flavors and some caramel.
Food: Roasted carrots with creme fraiche, oats, benne seed, aleppo pepper, and crispy pig ear. I could have had a whole handful more of that crispy pig ear on this plate.
Imperial Bottle Shop and Taproom presents The Bruery and Coquine Beer Pairing Dinner.  Here for course 3, Bruery Loakal - oaked American Red Ale generally only available in Orange County, paired with Roasted carrots with creme fraiche, oats, benne seed, aleppo pepper, and crispy pig ear

Course 4

Beer: Bruery Geriatric Hipster Club – beer equivalent of an Old-Fashioned; oak, bitters, orange peel. An extremely rare beer as it was produced exclusively for the Bruery’s Hoarders Society members. Although I liked the idea of the beer and the beer itself was ok on it’s own (with very strong bitter and yet sweet notes – and not evoking an Old Fashioned for me as I wanted more bourbon flavor in it), the beer I think overwhelmed the food course.
Food: Beef tartare with Douglas Fir and hazelnuts. I like the idea of using seasonings to bring out flavors, but still missed having an egg here.
Imperial Bottle Shop and Taproom presents The Bruery and Coquine Beer Pairing Dinner.  Here for course 4, Bruery Geriatric Hipster Club - beer equivalent of an Old-Fashioned; oak, bitters, orange peel Imperial Bottle Shop and Taproom presents The Bruery and Coquine Beer Pairing Dinner.  Here for course 4, Bruery Geriatric Hipster Club - beer equivalent of an Old-Fashioned; oak, bitters, orange peel paired with a food dish of Beef tartare with Douglas Fir and hazelnuts

Course 5

Beer: Bruery Tart of Darkness with Cherries & Vanilla – sour stout aged in oak barrels with tart cherries and vanilla beans. Another one of my favorite beers of the evening as you could strongly taste all that the promises – cherries, vanilla, tartness, the roast characteristics of a stout, all in one.
Food: Duck confit with cannelini beans, Luxardo cherry glaze, fennel and caraway.
Imperial Bottle Shop and Taproom presents The Bruery and Coquine Beer Pairing Dinner.  Here for course 5, Bruery Tart of Darkness with Cherries & Vanilla - sour stout aged in oak barrels with tart cherries and vanilla beans paired with Duck confit with cannelini beans, Amarena cherry glaze, fennel and caraway

Course 6

Beer: Bruery Freckle – mole-spiced imperial stout, the beer offered flavors of chocolate and subtle spice and cinnamon.
Food: Carolina Gold Rice Pudding with cinnamon, vanilla, kumquats, sweet cicely, and dark chocolate salted sable
Sorry for the poorer quality of these photos- I had forgotten my camera and so was armed only with my cameraphone.
Imperial Bottle Shop and Taproom presents The Bruery and Coquine Beer Pairing Dinner.  Here for course 6, Bruery Freckle - mole-spiced imperial stout paired with Carolina Gold Rice Pudding with cinnamon, vanilla, orange, and dark chocolate Imperial Bottle Shop and Taproom presents The Bruery and Coquine Beer Pairing Dinner.  Here for course 6, Bruery Freckle - mole-spiced imperial stout paired with Carolina Gold Rice Pudding with cinnamon, vanilla, orange, and dark chocolate

Thank you to Imperial Bottle Shop, Bruery, and Coquine for a great event. I hope Imperial Botle Shop will consider doing more beer and food events in the future, that the Bruery will come back to visit Portland with more of their beer, and good luck Coquine with your soon to be open location!

What course sounded most interesting to you, or what beer? Have you ever heard of The Bruery or Coquine before?

As an non sequitur note, next week (Sunday May 3) is the 4th annual Portland Monthly Country Brunch benefiting Zenger Farm. I’ve visited this event the previous year, doing recaps for 2014 and doing a recap for 2013. I’ll be there this year as well: if you have ever been jealous of these events I go to, I highly recommend the Country Brunch. It is is a pretty good value in terms of cost at just $30 for 6 samples each of various competing bloody marys (competing for Best Bloody Mary!) and 6 brunch samples. You can choose to only partake of the brunch and not the booze, AND it is family friendly so you can bring the kids (kids under 5 are free) –  it’s always adorable seeing every year kids dancing to the country/folk music band, people don’t seem to openly appreciate the live music at events with dancing as much as kids. Tickets are on sale now and they usually sell out so if you like bloody marys or brunch, this would be a fun Sunday activity!

~

About Coquine Supper Club
Coquine is a soon to be opened restaurant at 6839 SE Belmont street in Portland’s Mt. Tabor neighborhood. Chef Katy Millard and Ksandek Podbielski began their trek towards the top of Mt. Tabor in 2012, staging one-of-a-kind dinner parties and pop-ups on farms, in wineries and in other restaurants. Along the way this husband and wife duo have developed a ravenous following for Katy’s sophisticated but playful food, and Ksandek’s genuine hospitality and knack for pairing food and drink, which was mostly recently showcased serving as head of the wine program at award-winning restaurant Roe. Katy spent five years working her way up through five different Michelin-starred kitchens in France, and worked as the sous chef at Daniel Patterson’s upscale Coi Restaurant in San Francisco before helping him launch Plum.

Coquin(e): [kō-‘kēn] French. n. or adj. A mischievous child. The word “coquine” is used to chide a mischievous little girl. When directed at a grown up, its meaning is something a bit more flirtatious.

Find out more at Coquine PDX

About The Bruery
The Bruery is a boutique craft brewery located in Orange County, CA specializing in barrel aged and experimental ales. Founded as a small, friend & family run business in 2008, The Bruery takes its unique moniker from founder Patrick Rue’s family surname.

The Bruery is founded on the excitement that Patrick felt in those first years of homebrewing and we continue to strive for that same passion in every aspect of our business today. We never stop challenging ourselves to develop distinctive & imaginative beers, constantly pursuing improvement in all that we do. We brew dozens of original beers each year with our list of ingredients and inspirations growing perpetually. Our collection of oak barrels has also become a primary element of our brewery. Nearly half of our beer is aged in wine or spirit barrels bringing forth flavors reminiscent of the Belgian countryside or classic American distillers.

Find out more at The Bruery

About Imperial Bottle Shop and Tap Room
Drink at our beer-inspired bar, or take beer home to enjoy. Either way, you can choose from 16 local beers on tap and over 400 of the best bottled American craft beer. Whether you’re a seasoned beer drinker or new to craft beer, Imperial provides an enjoyable beer experience through helpful, friendly service and the most sustainable beer-drinking practices available. We were named of of America’s 100 Best Beer Bars by DRAFT Magazine in both 2014 and 2015, and Best Local Beer List in the Northwest 2014 by SIP NW magazine! Find out more at Imperial Bottle Shop and Tap Room

Signature