Lunches at Lardo

Lardo PDX– sniff. I remember when we first met, when it was a new food cart, brand new and just custom built, when I attended the annual food cart festival Eat Mobile 2011. I also visited it on a food cart tour. Then, the cart grew up- so fast!- to a brick and mortar location, first on the east side of the river, and now on the west side where I visited its bright shiny digs with huge glass windows and doors and the same clean wood and food that celebrates fat. F/Jack that can eat no fat hates this place, but I naturally love it. Now they are so grown up they are throwing Super Bowl parties with heated tents and a big screen and game day food today, and earlier this month collaborated to offer a Swine and Barley Wine event (A Pig Out Production) of barleywine pairings with offerings from their menu and cheese from Steve’s Cheese (check out a take from an attendee at one of the local PDX blogs I follow, Beer Musings from Portland)

In their transformation from food cart to two physical restaurants, they still have a very casual level of service.  I’ve seen this in many places in Portland in order to reduce service staff costs. You go up and order from a chalkboard on the wall, and are handed a number so that your order can be delivered to you, and then you bus yourself to the bins. Wisely, they already have to go boxes for your leftovers out.

I also want to assure you that what is pictured below is more than one lunch I had at Lardo, and these sandwiches are not all mine. You don’t need to fear for my heart and whether I can continue to enjoy deliciousness. This was not one meal.

First of all, the Bloody Mary is quite spicy! I loved it! There haven been many a bloody mary that I have tried around PDX that didn’t bring it (and with great distilleries like New Deal with their Hot Monkey vodka and so much heirloom tomatoes and homemade pickling!). Thankfully, Lardo brought it to punch with flavor with their take on a bloody mary. As I waited for my order to be prepared (they do so to order), that bloody mary really raised my expectations of what I was about to experience, as it ranked right up there with ones I’ve had at for instance when I visited Tasty N Sons and my brunch at Simpatica.

Lardo west, bringing the fat back, Portland restaurant, sandwich restaurant Lardo west, bringing the fat back, Bloody Mary

You may consider bringing a friend to share with if you get the double burger and fries- I felt my heart would burst just eating that half of a Double Burger (with both Cascade natural beef and pork belly as the meats along with the cheddar and lardo sauce) and the Dirty Fries. Oh those Dirty Fries with fried pork fat scraps, marinated peppers, fried herbs and parmesan, a tasty but filling combination on the tastebuds of savory and salty and spicy and sour, both crispy and so lingeringly soft in the same chew. Genius.

I’m not sure why you would not order these fries dirty- you sort of need all those peppers to balance out that pork belly on the burger. Not to say the pork belly isn’t delicious- at one point I separated them out to eat them individually to savor them, and even without the pork belly that burger is so juicy and messy and glorious. I can see this showing up on the national charts of Food & Wine as one of the best burgers in the US, and it is definitely in the top 3 for Portland.

Double Burger, Dirty fries, Cascade natural beef and pork belly with the cheddar and lardo sauce, Lardo west, bringing the fat back, Portland restaurant, sandwich restaurant Double Burger, Dirty fries, Cascade natural beef and pork belly with the cheddar and lardo sauce, Lardo west, bringing the fat back, Portland restaurant, sandwich restaurant Double Burger, Dirty fries, Cascade natural beef and pork belly with the cheddar and lardo sauce, Lardo west, bringing the fat back, Portland restaurant, sandwich restaurant
Double Burger, Dirty fries, Cascade natural beef and pork belly with the cheddar and lardo sauce, Lardo west, bringing the fat back, Portland restaurant, sandwich restaurant

Other sandwiches I was able to sample included the fried chicken sandwich, eggplant parmesan, and porchetta sandwich. The fried chicken sandwich was decent but I was hoping for more- I don’t mind cold fried chicken, and the description of Cold Fried Chicken, blue cheese, bacon, pickles sounded promising. But, I realized as I ate it that I was hoping for a cold fried chicken that would compare well with cold chicken from Kentucky Fried Chicken.

Maybe my memories are rosy since it has been years since I’ve had KFC since I don’t eat fast food chains anymore, but I remember not minding leftover KFC the next day because of the wonderful seasoning on their original recipe chicken or the extra crispy chicken version still having a corner of super crunch here or there. Neither of this was true with the cold fried chicken from Lardo, and I was hoping they would have celebrated the fat of the skin more either with seasoning to let it sing, or lots of breading to highlight extra crispy skin. I also wouldn’t have minded more blue cheese, such as Rogue blue cheese tang.

Meanwhile, Lardo’s Eggplant Parm ‘Old School’ with tomato sauce, provolone, basil was messy with its generous saucing, and the breading still had a bit of crispness despite it. It is a good option for the vegetarian who you drag to eat Lardo with you. In fact, Lardo offers two vegetarian sandwiches- there was also a Rapini sandwich with aged provolone, capers, and red pepper agrodolce available as an option.

Fried Chicken Sandwich, Cold Fried Chicken, blue cheese, bacon, pickles, Lardo west, bringing the fat back, Portland restaurant, sandwich restaurant Fried Chicken Sandwich, Cold Fried Chicken, blue cheese, bacon, pickles, Lardo west, bringing the fat back, Portland restaurant, sandwich restaurant Eggplant Parm, Lardo west, bringing the fat back, Portland restaurant, sandwich restaurant Eggplant Parm, Lardo west, bringing the fat back, Portland restaurant, sandwich restaurant

Finally, Lardo’s signature porchetta sandwich with caper aioli, gremolata that have been written up nationally including the recipe shared at Saveur. It’s a sandwich of fatty melt in your mouth pork belly that is wrapped around the roasted pork and doesn’t apologize for it, and in fact adds all that good olive oil and gremolata on top (though seriously just the meat/fat combo itself is already luscious).

Lardo's signature porchetta sandwich with caper aioli, gremolata, Lardo west, bringing the fat back, Portland restaurant, sandwich restaurant Lardo's signature porchetta sandwich with caper aioli, gremolata, Lardo west, bringing the fat back, Portland restaurant, sandwich restaurant

Lardo is serious about bringing the fat back. And, it doesn’t hurt that now with having a restaurant space (two actually!), they can offer half a dozen options for cocktails and more than a dozen local Northwest microbrew beers to wash that extreme richness down with. They also have pie holes- I stared so wistfully at those pecan pie holes but couldn’t muster the courage to add more to my arteries in one meal (well, also considering what gluttony the meal order already consisted of as you see. I more than blew my caloric allowance before dessert…) Not a single thing is more than $10, but every item is an indulgent pleasure that seems to border on sinful in its exaltation of richness.

Signature

In honor of National Burger Weekend: Burgers @ Violetta

Update: Violetta restaurant has closed since my visit, but their burgers and fries continue on at their food truck 

Did you know that this weekend (Memorial Day weekend) is also National Burger Weekend (as part of May being Burger Month)? I knew there was a reason I was craving cheeseburgers this week. Groupon is running various local deals on burgers (one of them is even for Skyline, which made Food Network’s cut for best burger for the state: check out 50 States 50 Burgers). Violetta isn’t one of them unfortunately (though they were a Groupon deal before…) but I would highly recommend stopping by for their cheeseburger anyway.

Violetta has humble origins when it started as a food cart while constructing their location- the mobile kitchen part still exists via Etta- but Violetta now exists as a casual eating stop at Director’s Park. Its look is very clean and minimalist- you might pass by thinking the clear glass walls in this little place that the location house a cafe – and they do have caffeinated beverages, but there’s also a pretty big menu considering the amount of space here. The food concept is homey casual American fare but done quickly so you can grab a quick bite and the food is made with local premium ingredients. They are most known for their burger and fries, but also offer pot pie, mac and cheese, and other seasonal items. For instance if I had more tummy room I might have tried corn dogs during the initial visit.

What I had my  initial visit was their classic Violetta Burger of 1/3 lb pasture raised black Angus beef on brioche bun with butter lettuce, red onion, their burger sauce and “10 hour tomatoes” and dill pickles, and an add on of a slice of white cheddar. You can also ask for a larger patty of meat, or add bacon, or try the burger versions with different accompaniments (such as Oregonzola with smoked bacon and caramelized onions). I was already getting a small side of their hand cut yukon gold fries with blue cheese sauce though, aka the Oregonzola fries, I held off on their Oregon Blue Burger for a future day when I could get it with their white truffle fries. I also had as a second side their mac and cheese (despite the price, it really is a more viable side item then at the same level of the other entree size sandwich offerings).

The cheeseburger and mac and cheese were ok- these were much more in line with what you might expect from a fast food but local establishment like Burgerville. As you can see from the burger, it came on a nice toasty bun with the fixings looking good but the cheese wasn’t even melted and the lettuce offered texture but no taste- though the slow roasted tomatoes and pickles definitely added. Maybe with addition of extras, the burger might go a hair closer to In and Out, but not quite there, though decent. It was a nice patty of meat, considering I got the 1/3 lb.

The mac and cheese had cheese that seemed liquefied like you would expect from a package instead of using fresh cheese, and I wouldn’t order it again. I was hoping the slow food concept would be more in play there- there are plenty of happy hours that offer a nice caramelized in the oven mac and cheese and more cheese definition that can best this take, which is how I prefer my mac and cheese though if you like liquid cheese sauce this does deliver on the creaminess.

By far the highlight were those fries- perfectly executed. You know how sometimes you pick through fries looking for that golden extra crispy one that is just right- not so hard that it is overdone and soaked up the fry oil, not soggy soft. Well, every single fry was like that in their fry serving. Every single one- even the ones I saved towards later because they were slathered with the blue cheese. Outside, a table of half a dozen men just drank a round or two of bottles of beer and ordered batches of large fries to share as they unwound from the work week. Those fries are amazing- they can turn any gloomy day or unravel any tightness in your mood with their taste and texture of comfort that there is some good in the world- such as each bite of these fries.

On a second visit, I went with the Oregon Blue Burger with their white truffle fries and a vanilla milkshake, which I then enjoyed outside in the sunshine of Director’s Park. Now this burger is one a whole level above the original Violetta burger. The lettuce was missed- it would have been nice to add that crispness to counter all the juicy messyness- but the addition of the bacon, Oregonzola, and caramelized onions added so much richness that had left the plain cheeseburger wanting more, and is just wanted this burger needs. The fries with pepper and Oregon white truffle oil that came with a side of herbed aioli (other options include harissa ketchup, ranch, honey mustard, or just burger sauce)) were just as perfectly executed and crisp as last time. The milkshake was the only one that needed help- it was so thick that I couldn’t use the straw until it melted more into liquid form.

 

As the weather warms up, this is a nice option for a quick fast food bite, but done with local food, fast but not corporate feeling as it is not done in an assembly line though there certainly have been some efficiencies designed in their food execution. Think more in line with a food cart that has room for its employees to actually breathe and work and with the ability to manage a pantry and better kitchen and prep/execute instead of stuffed in a shack on a parking lot. You go up to the counter and order what you’d like and pay then, take a number down to your table inside or outside to have your food delivered, and then you clean up your table at the end into the various containers.

It is permanently located in a modern urban park near theaters and shows and plenty of downtown offices and museums, so could be a great stop when visiting the arts or a lunch outside during the weekdays around the Portland Cultural District vicinity. It has a small amount of seating inside its main glass cafe like space. Unless you have alcohol then you can just eat anywhere outside, with alcoholic beverage in hand you need to stay underneath the outside “roof”. So substitute the choice of wine or beer with a milkshake instead, and maybe you can wander right back to the South Park blocks for a mini picnic. They are open to a decent time in the evenings so I can also see stopping here for fries and a chat after a show as well. Yeah, especially for the fries.

From Spring 2011

Signature