Oven and Shaker Chef Series: Ox’s Clam Chowder Pizza

I’ve covered during 2013 many sandwiches from Lardo, who have been doing chefwiches– that is chef collaboration sandwiches, each with a guest chef of another excellent restaurant in Portland. Recently in November, Oven & Shaker started doing a chef series in which there are collaborations with chefs for a special pizza option on the menu, and part of the proceeds for that pizza go to the charity of choice selected by the collaborating guest chef. Oven and Shaker schedule is for a beginning-end of the month rather than Lardo’s mid-month change-up. So the second pizza in this post is available until the end of December!

The first chef pizza at Oven & Shaker was in collaboration with Rick of Lardo, with the charity of choice for November being Ecotrust’s Farm to Schools. Together, they turned Lardo’s mortadella sandwich into pizza form with a Mortadella pie. This pizza started with an olive oil, oregano, and garlic base topped with provolone picante, Mama Lil’s peppers, and mortadella, and then was topped after the wood fired oven with shredded lettuce and dressing. It was a very meaty pizza. Sorry for the dark lighting!
Oven and Shaker's Chef Series pizza pies, starting with the November Rick Gencarelli's Mortadella Pie with an olive oil, oregano, and garlic base topped with provolone picante, Mama Lil's peppers, and mortadella then finished with shredded lettuce and dressing. Proceeds benefit Ecotrust's Farm to Schools program Oven and Shaker's Chef Series pizza pies, starting with the November Rick Gencarelli's Mortadella Pie with an olive oil, oregano, and garlic base topped with provolone picante, Mama Lil's peppers, and mortadella then finished with shredded lettuce and dressing. Proceeds benefit Ecotrust's Farm to Schools program Oven and Shaker's Chef Series pizza pies, starting with the November Rick Gencarelli's Mortadella Pie with an olive oil, oregano, and garlic base topped with provolone picante, Mama Lil's peppers, and mortadella then finished with shredded lettuce and dressing. Proceeds benefit Ecotrust's Farm to Schools program

This month, December, the collaboration chef is Greg and Gabrielle Denton of Ox with a Clam Chowder Pizza Pie with split bone marrow and jalapeno. Very indulgent.
Oven and Shaker Chef Series, from Ox the Clam Chowder Smoked Bone Marrow Pizza for December 2013 Oven and Shaker Chef Series, from Ox the Clam Chowder Smoked Bone Marrow Pizza for December 2013 Oven and Shaker Chef Series, from Ox the Clam Chowder Smoked Bone Marrow Pizza for December 2013 Oven and Shaker Chef Series, from Ox the Clam Chowder Smoked Bone Marrow Pizza for December 2013 Oven and Shaker Chef Series, from Ox the Clam Chowder Smoked Bone Marrow Pizza for December 2013
Clearly the Oven & Shaker series is going after some signature dishes with each guest chef. Compare this with the famous Ox Clam Chowder soup…
Ox's Fresh Clam Chowder, Smoked Marrow Bone, Spring Onion, Jalapeño . . . SO GOOD

Every visit I’ve also treated myself to one new cocktail. Both are still available on their current cocktail list. The first was a Kingdom of Walnut Cocktail, which has 2 oz Bols 1820 Genever + 1/2 oz Punt e Mes + 1/4 oz Nux Alpine Walnut Liquor + lemon oil. It is a strong drink.

The second for December was a refreshing Honey Basil Collins: loose third pint full of basil, + 2 oz vodka + 3/4 oz freshly pressed lemon juice + 3/4 oz house made clover honey syrup + 2 oz club soda. Of course, you can always go for the classic favorite from the cocktail menu (I don’t think anyone can dislike this cocktail), their Pineapple Trainwreck or Pepper Smash: I’ve had both before and covered them in previous blog entries.
Oven and Shaker Fresh cocktail, Honey Basil Collins: loose third pint full of basil, + 2 oz vodka + 3/4 oz freshly pressed lemon juice + 3/4 oz house made clover honey syrup + 2 oz club soda

I also can’t resist the fact that Oven and Shaker also offers the iconic Nostrana Radicchio Caeser. At happy hour they have a smaller portion for half price… and you can see the portion is still very generous. There are times I can’t stop thinking about this salad and just have to go have it. I don’t know what you’ll think of me when I admit I’m more likely to suddenly have the urge for this salad rather than anything with chocolate.
Oven and Shaker offers as part of their happy hour the iconic Nostrana Radicchio Caeser, a small portion for half price. Clearly the portion is very generous Oven and Shaker offers as part of their happy hour the iconic Nostrana Radicchio Caeser, a small portion for half price. Clearly the portion is very generous Oven and Shaker offers as part of their happy hour the iconic Nostrana Radicchio Caeser, a small portion for half price. Clearly the portion is very generous

Which of these items sounds most interesting to you? What do you think of a pizza that comes with a big marrow bone in the center!? I didn’t have to share, so no worries about dividing the marrow bone with others for me.

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The Lardo Chefwich Series is Back!

So, I covered during most of this year the 6 chefwiches of Lardo. Each month usually around the 15/16th, there would be a new collaboration sandwich on the menu between Rick Gencarelli of Lardo and a guest chef, aka, a chefwich. Each chefwich has been rotating into the Lardo menus (either of the two Lardo locations, Lardo West in SW downtown or in Lardo East in the SE) over the past 6 months. For all the chefwiches a portion of the proceeds benefited a charity of the guest chef’s choice, and each chefwich was a limited time sandwich offer, only available for a month.  Each chefwich could also net you a stamp on the chefwich card, and if you collected them all it offered you VIP access to the Chefwich Party (though you can also purchase a ticket in- and the party brought back all the chefwiches all at one time for an ultimate chefwich faceoff!)! I covered all the previous 6 sandwiches here at this blogpost.

Well, the Lardo Chefwich party has come and gone, but the Chefwich series continues! Starting off with #7 and going to #13 apparently, which means the next chefwich party will be in May?

The chefwich  series continues on by kicking off with The Chris DiMinno, formerly of Clyde Common. This sandwich has apparently been dubbed “Arthur Avenue Called” and is comprised of breaded chicken, marinara, mozzarella, parm sauce, soft hoagie… essentially a chicken parmesan. The charity of Chris’s choice is The Bicycle Transportation Alliance which works to promote bicycle use and improve bicycling conditions to make bicycling safe, convenient and accessible.

Update 12/17 The next chefwich is out: Adam Sappington of Country Cat‘s chefwich of a Cattail Creek Lamb Burger with smoked tomato jam, fennel slaw, and havarti cheese will benefit the Oregon Humane Society. Goddamit, Lardo you are making me a sandwich addict.

But let’s just get to the sandwich photo porn from chefwich #1 shall we?

The next Chefwich, featuring chef Chris DiMinno, formerly of Clyde Common. This sandwich has apparently been dubbed Arthur Avenue Called and is comprised of breaded chicken, marinara, mozzarella, parm sauce, soft hoagie... essentially yes a chicken parmesan sandwich! Lardo's signature Pig Out in holiday colors The next Chefwich, featuring chef Chris DiMinno, formerly of Clyde Common. This sandwich has apparently been dubbed Arthur Avenue Called and is comprised of breaded chicken, marinara, mozzarella, parm sauce, soft hoagie... essentially yes a chicken parmesan sandwich! The next Chefwich, featuring chef Chris DiMinno, formerly of Clyde Common. This sandwich has apparently been dubbed Arthur Avenue Called and is comprised of breaded chicken, marinara, mozzarella, parm sauce, soft hoagie... essentially yes a chicken parmesan sandwich!

Rick Gencarelli hasn’t just been collaborating on sandwiches however. Oven & Shaker is also now doing a chef series, but with pizzas. The first chef pizza at Oven & Shaker was in collaboration with Rick, and turned Lardo’s mortadella sandwich into pizza form with a Mortadella pie. This pizza started with an olive oil, oregano, and garlic base topped with provolone picante, Mama Lil’s peppers, and mortadella, and then was topped after the wood fired oven with shredded lettuce and dressing. Their schedule is different than Lardo’s by doing beginning-end of the month rather than Lardo’s mid-month change-up. Oven & Shaker doesn’t have a punchcard, but they also donate some of the proceeds to the collaborating chef’s charity of choice. Last month, November, it was Ecotrust’s Farm to Schools.

This month, December, the collaboration chef is Greg and Gabrielle Denton of Ox with a Clam Chowder Pie with split bone marrow and jalapeno. Clearly the Oven & Shaker series is going after some signature dishes with the guest chef.  I’m planning to go there next week, so stay tuned!

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Oven and Shaker- the Bianca pizza

As I had promised myself the previous two visits (one during Dining Month and one where I tried Aracine and Cauliflower Pizza), I would return to Oven and Shaker and try the Bianca. This past week gave me an opportunity to do so. As I perused the menu, I noticed that the seasonal pizzas from August that included zucchini and marscarpone and blackberry and peach had been amended, with the blackberry removed (but there is still a peach pizza) and a roasted pepper pizza as well. It’s good to see they are continuing to freshen up the menu monthly. As last time, the service was attentive in checking in for drinks and food so that you can casually chat and snack on starters and small plates, and the food does come out in whatever order the kitchen has it ready.

I started out with a cocktail I had been eyeing my last visit, called the The “Lost” Cosmopolitan. The menu boasts that this is vintage circa 1933. To me though, it tasted pretty modern, a good mix of tart and sweet without being to much of either, thanks to its ingredients of “7 ea. fresh raspberries + 2 oz. Aviation Gin + ¼ oz Cointreau + ¾ oz. freshly pressed lemon juice + ¾ oz. simple syrup Americano”. I would have had more of this delight to drink, but decided to stick to a lot of water because it was a sweltering above 80 degrees that day. But this drink also made me feel so girly and pretty!
Oven and Shaker cocktail

As a starter, I tried the Kale Salad, with grapefruit, toasted breadcrumbs, poppyseed fricco, pecorino, anchovy vinaigrette. The result was a crunchy salad experience with pops of salt. The way the kale was shredded though was a bit long for a neat mouthful but too short to twirl and too thin to cut, which resulted in me wiping my face a lot as the vinaigrette splashed all around my mouth from the length of the kale. Now I felt messy and like a slob with no manners. Thanks for the highs and lows Oven and Shaker. This is not a good dish if you are on a date. Or with anyone who wants to look at your face and not see shiny vinaigrette dribbles shining from you.
Oven and Shaker salad

And then, well there was the pizza I came for, the Bianca. You can tell from the description it has my name appended at the end: a wood oven fired pizza topped with teleme, truffled sottocenere, bufala mozzarella, and fried sage. Teleme is a luscious high fat cheese that is creamy white, sort of like a mix between a brie and creme fraiche because it is very oozy. Then add fresh bufala mozz, and a cheese with flakes of truffles!? Yes please!

If you love lots of gooey cheese on your pizza, and throw in the scents and flavors of  a bit of the smokey dough it is piled and melted on, this is for you. It is quite rich, and if you aren’t ordering this pizza with others that you are sharing with (along with mixing it up with slices of other pizzas), consider adding an extra topping from their menu to add a bit of contrast- I think I woudl choose the spicy roasted chilis myself, although the salt cured anchovies would also work if you didn’t just eat a whole salad littered with anchovy bits. I would get this pizza again in a heartbeat… if I’m not tempted away by a combination of a seasonal pizza making a guest appearance.
Oven and Shaker Bianca pizzaOven and Shaker bianca pizza

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Oven & Shaker: a second visit for Aracine and Cauliflower Pizza

I arrived specifically at Oven & Shaker because I wanted the Cauliflower pizza, which had not been on the menu my previous visit. I was really tempted, just like last time, with the Bianca pizza, boasting teleme, truffled sottocenere, bufala mozzarella and fried sage.

Also new to the menu was a pizza of Blackberry and Peach with garlic, arugula, pecorino, rocotta and aged balsalmic. They also had more specials in the Finger * Fork section (the small plates). But, fearing that the Cauliflower, just like the Brussel Sprout pizza, might be a seasonal and therefore temporary offering, I went with that as my pizza choice. I was very glad I did. But damn you Oven and Shaker, with your temptations that will bring me back again…!

Oven & Shaker, Cathy Whims, Wood fired pizza, Portland Oven & Shaker, Cathy Whims, Wood fired pizza, Portland

I started with the fried risotto balls, or aracine. They came in four different flavors, and not able to decide, I didn’t decide at all and got them all. They are very filling- I would only be able to eat 2 slices of my pizza when it would arrive later, and based on delicious the pizzas are, would rather leave the room for more slices. Ranked in order of
what tasted best of the four Aracine:

Oven and Shaker aracine Oven and Shaker aracine

  1. suppli al telefono, wild mushroom risotto, smoked mozzarella and tomato ragu aracini
  2. lager beer risotto cheddar salami aracini
  3. aracini of basil risotto with house mozzarella  and fresh tomato sauce
  4. herb risotto wtih summer vegetables and  fonduta aracini

Even though it was Friday, the restaurant was not very busy, possibly because there were other summer festivals going on that night as well, though it was also pretty early on a Friday- maybe everyone was at happy hour still (O&S’s happy hour is only until 2:30-4 or 10-midnight). Thanks to the lack of crowd, I was able to really admire how long and incredibly well stocked with bottles the bar was.

Also, not being in the weeds greatly improved how quickly I got my food and how well it was executed, and the staff was able to be more attentive in checking on me, bringing food to me promptly, and removing finished service ware.The atmosphere was much more relaxed and casual, rather than leaning on the frenetic side during my last visit.

Oven & Shaker, Cathy Whims, Wood fired pizza, Portland Oven & Shaker, Cathy Whims, Wood fired pizza, Portland

While I awaited my meal, I enjoyed a drink that had caught my eye on a previous visit and had remembered, so this visit I didn’t hesitate to reward myself. The Oven and Shaker’s Pepper Smash comes with lots of mint leaves, Krogstad Aquavit (a caraway/anise flavored vodka), lime juice, maple syrup, and freshly extracted yellow bell pepper juice for a very smooth liquid taste of… the description that comes to mind is je ne sais quoi.

It had citrus flavors and a little tartness from the lime but not too sour or acidic thanks to the maple syrup, and then add in that freshness of the bell pepper with the flavors of caraway and anise… it all came into to a unique medley that is refreshing and easy to drink but that you want to sip to have those flavors roll and rest on your tongue.

Oven and Shaker Pepper Smash cocktail, Oven & Shaker, Cathy Whims, Wood fired pizza, Portland

Meanwhile, the pizzas are all cooked in the wood fired oven so it is ever so lightly scorched for some burnt smoke flavor: this time when it arrived rather than soggy it was a nice thin crisp yet doughy consistency which I enjoyed.

Oven and Shaker Cauliflower Pizza, Oven & Shaker, Cathy Whims, Wood fired pizza, PortlandOven and Shaker Cauliflower Pizza, Oven & Shaker, Cathy Whims, Wood fired pizza, Portland

The ingredients on the pizza of the roasted cauliflower, mozzarella, provolone, olive, spring onion, Mama Lil’s chilies, crumbled salami was a wonderful mix of the crispy salami and the soft creamy cheese with the tangy bits of olive and taste of smoke from the slightly scorched pizza foundation.

I’m coming for you Bianca pizza… I’m coming back for you.

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