Update: Violetta restaurant has closed since my visit, but their burgers and fries continue on at their food truck
Did you know that this weekend (Memorial Day weekend) is also National Burger Weekend (as part of May being Burger Month)? I knew there was a reason I was craving cheeseburgers this week. Groupon is running various local deals on burgers (one of them is even for Skyline, which made Food Network’s cut for best burger for the state: check out 50 States 50 Burgers). Violetta isn’t one of them unfortunately (though they were a Groupon deal before…) but I would highly recommend stopping by for their cheeseburger anyway.
Violetta has humble origins when it started as a food cart while constructing their location- the mobile kitchen part still exists via Etta- but Violetta now exists as a casual eating stop at Director’s Park. Its look is very clean and minimalist- you might pass by thinking the clear glass walls in this little place that the location house a cafe – and they do have caffeinated beverages, but there’s also a pretty big menu considering the amount of space here. The food concept is homey casual American fare but done quickly so you can grab a quick bite and the food is made with local premium ingredients. They are most known for their burger and fries, but also offer pot pie, mac and cheese, and other seasonal items. For instance if I had more tummy room I might have tried corn dogs during the initial visit.
What I had my initial visit was their classic Violetta Burger of 1/3 lb pasture raised black Angus beef on brioche bun with butter lettuce, red onion, their burger sauce and “10 hour tomatoes” and dill pickles, and an add on of a slice of white cheddar. You can also ask for a larger patty of meat, or add bacon, or try the burger versions with different accompaniments (such as Oregonzola with smoked bacon and caramelized onions). I was already getting a small side of their hand cut yukon gold fries with blue cheese sauce though, aka the Oregonzola fries, I held off on their Oregon Blue Burger for a future day when I could get it with their white truffle fries. I also had as a second side their mac and cheese (despite the price, it really is a more viable side item then at the same level of the other entree size sandwich offerings).
The cheeseburger and mac and cheese were ok- these were much more in line with what you might expect from a fast food but local establishment like Burgerville. As you can see from the burger, it came on a nice toasty bun with the fixings looking good but the cheese wasn’t even melted and the lettuce offered texture but no taste- though the slow roasted tomatoes and pickles definitely added. Maybe with addition of extras, the burger might go a hair closer to In and Out, but not quite there, though decent. It was a nice patty of meat, considering I got the 1/3 lb.
The mac and cheese had cheese that seemed liquefied like you would expect from a package instead of using fresh cheese, and I wouldn’t order it again. I was hoping the slow food concept would be more in play there- there are plenty of happy hours that offer a nice caramelized in the oven mac and cheese and more cheese definition that can best this take, which is how I prefer my mac and cheese though if you like liquid cheese sauce this does deliver on the creaminess.
By far the highlight were those fries- perfectly executed. You know how sometimes you pick through fries looking for that golden extra crispy one that is just right- not so hard that it is overdone and soaked up the fry oil, not soggy soft. Well, every single fry was like that in their fry serving. Every single one- even the ones I saved towards later because they were slathered with the blue cheese. Outside, a table of half a dozen men just drank a round or two of bottles of beer and ordered batches of large fries to share as they unwound from the work week. Those fries are amazing- they can turn any gloomy day or unravel any tightness in your mood with their taste and texture of comfort that there is some good in the world- such as each bite of these fries.
On a second visit, I went with the Oregon Blue Burger with their white truffle fries and a vanilla milkshake, which I then enjoyed outside in the sunshine of Director’s Park. Now this burger is one a whole level above the original Violetta burger. The lettuce was missed- it would have been nice to add that crispness to counter all the juicy messyness- but the addition of the bacon, Oregonzola, and caramelized onions added so much richness that had left the plain cheeseburger wanting more, and is just wanted this burger needs. The fries with pepper and Oregon white truffle oil that came with a side of herbed aioli (other options include harissa ketchup, ranch, honey mustard, or just burger sauce)) were just as perfectly executed and crisp as last time. The milkshake was the only one that needed help- it was so thick that I couldn’t use the straw until it melted more into liquid form.
As the weather warms up, this is a nice option for a quick fast food bite, but done with local food, fast but not corporate feeling as it is not done in an assembly line though there certainly have been some efficiencies designed in their food execution. Think more in line with a food cart that has room for its employees to actually breathe and work and with the ability to manage a pantry and better kitchen and prep/execute instead of stuffed in a shack on a parking lot. You go up to the counter and order what you’d like and pay then, take a number down to your table inside or outside to have your food delivered, and then you clean up your table at the end into the various containers.
It is permanently located in a modern urban park near theaters and shows and plenty of downtown offices and museums, so could be a great stop when visiting the arts or a lunch outside during the weekdays around the Portland Cultural District vicinity. It has a small amount of seating inside its main glass cafe like space. Unless you have alcohol then you can just eat anywhere outside, with alcoholic beverage in hand you need to stay underneath the outside “roof”. So substitute the choice of wine or beer with a milkshake instead, and maybe you can wander right back to the South Park blocks for a mini picnic. They are open to a decent time in the evenings so I can also see stopping here for fries and a chat after a show as well. Yeah, especially for the fries.
From Spring 2011
