Recap of the Zero Proof Dinner for Feast 2018

When the listing of the various event listings for Feast Portland 2018 came out in early spring, when I saw the description for the Zero Proof Dinner as part of the Feast 2018 Dinner Series it was immediately one of my top two choices of what I wanted to attend. I loved the idea of recognizing and celebrating sobriety – and the lineup of the chefs was impeccable. It was a dinner that not only would feature deliciousness from an all star list of chefs and probably an intriguing pairing of non-alcoholic drinks, but seemed like a dinner underscored with a message and meaning too. I had no idea as I was quickly clicking the next day to purchase my ticket (and ultimately sacrificing another dinner I wanted to attend because it sold out while I purchased this one) how right I would be.

This year Gabriel Rucker (Le Pigeon, Portland) pitched us a compelling idea: to bring together a group of nationally admired chefs who have chosen a life of sobriety and wellness within the restaurant world – where abuse of alcohol and substances is not only tolerated, it is often celebrated. Join Gabe and a group of friends he personally invited to showcase one of the most inspiring collaborations in our festival’s history. We welcome chef and television personality Andrew Zimmern (Lucky Cricket, Minneapolis), Southern trailblazer Sean Brock (Husk, Charleston), Israeli food pioneer Michael Solomonov (Zahav, Philadelphia), and our own hardest working man in Portland Gregory Gourdet (Departure, Portland) to bring front and center a growing global movement at Portland’s culinary festival. Even some of our most respected bartenders have shown they can work in this industry and be sober, accordingly, Evan Zimmerman (Knucklehead, Washington DC) will create a tasting menu of non-alcoholic drink pairings. Come experience how being sober has changed the way these chefs cook as well as changed their perspectives on food and life.

The surprise for me – and probably everyone – was how emotional it was to attend as a guest. Even though I do not practice a sober lifestyle, I totally unanticipated how affecting it was, and how it affects me still. After this dinner even hours later at another party, for the rest of the weekend festival every time there was a drink, and even this whole week every time there was a drink of alcohol, my awareness has been raised.

But to start, most of us had never heard of Blockhouse PDX, which is where the dinner (and several of the Feast Dinner Series dinners) were held. It is in a sort of hidden area of North Portland, but after entering through the doorway it becomes almost an escape as you become surrounded by the greenery of a garden from Pomarius Nursery and a large open chef’s kitchen. Although there were no walls so you were still dining al fresco, a roof structure over our heads would have protected us from the elements if it had rained (luckily it did not). The only minor ding on the atmosphere was the train tracks that surprised us!

Passed Appetizers

The dinner started with some passed appetizers before we were seated. It was a little chaotic as most of us were standing just in the area with a handful of standing tables, and I think the realization that the guests desperately needed napkins when the first appetizer, Gabriel Rucker’s E.L.T was passed out – a delicious bite, but definitely messy! I appreciated the paired beverage of the Carbonated Buckwheat Tea with Yeast and Lemon Oil by Evan Zimmerman for its nod to champagne, though I did miss the fun of carbonation/bubbles. I am definitely cutting Evan some slack though – he was only making 70+ servings of beverages times 5 courses and for the passed appetizers, while all the other chefs contributed one appetizer and one course – so Evan wins a gold star here!

• Carbonated Buckwheat Tea with Yeast and Lemon Oil by Evan Zimmerman
  
• E.L.T. Eel, Lettuce and Tomato by Gabriel Rucker
  
• Albacore Tart with Tomato XO and Sour Coconut Cream by Gregory Gourdet had a great contrast with the slight smoked Oregon Albacore flavors and the Almond flour of the tart and creaminess of the cream.
  
• Caviar Brioche Toasts with Seaweed Butter and Lemon by Andrew Zimmern
  
• Kibbe Naya with Bulgur, Fermented Schug, Lamb Bacon, Baby Bibb by Michael Solomonov. The lamb tartare here was so melt in your mouth.
  
• Acorn Griddle Cake with Heirloom tomato and Jowl Bacon from Sean Brock. I could have kept popping in multiple of these johnny corn cakes.
  

Dinner

After we were seated, then the chefs came up to greet all of us and welcome us to the dinner. Chef Gabriel Rucker, whose idea this was while in the bathroom at the gym (!!!) recounted how he brought everyone together for this collaboration dinner.

Then, each chef talked briefly about their path to sobriety, modeling total openness to destigmatize the struggle and encourage an environment that isn’t alcohol soaked or pumped with toxic behavior. There were incredible moments of vulnerability, of thankfulness, emphasizing that there is no shame is asking for help, but also the laughter of familiar teasing of people who have a closeness bound in both good and bad times.

Then, it was on to the dinner.

1st Course: Summer Vegetable and Cornbread Salad by Sean Brock paired with Juice of Meadowsweet Flowers and Carrots.  Tasted so healthy. Haha maybe too healthy.

2nd Course: Leeks and Shrimp with Sichuan Black Bean Vinaigrette by Andrew Zimmern paired with Juice of Green Apples Lightly Smoked with Grape Vines. There was surprising heat with chili oil and Szechuan Peppercorn in the dish that matched well with the hint of smoke in the drink. It as also fun to see other guests rise to the occasion of trying to suck the meat from the head!

3rd Course: Warm Trout on Spanish Tortilla with Roe and Hollaindaise by Gabriel Rucker paired with Plum and Seaweed drink. There’s a mushroom ragout and peach corn pudding as sides too, so much flavor, plus hazelnuts on top for more texture.

4th Course: Lobster Wrapped Ribeye Cap, Porcini Mushrooms, Foie Gras, Mahleb by Michael Solomonov paired with Clarified Juice of Caramelized Onion with Houjicha and a touch of Molasses. Despite the two Chanterelle Dishes in a row, both of the dishes couldn’t be more different. The drink here was weird  and touch sweet to me (though enjoyed by my dining friend) alone with her comparing it to an onion martini, but it all fell into place when the beverage was paired with the food here to highlight the earthiness.

Dessert: Haitian Vanilla Chocolate Ganache Dome with Vanilla, Peanut, Star Anise, Cinnamon, Coffee and Cocoa Ash Cake and Ice by Gregory Gourdet paired with Nitro-carbonated Mexican Coca-cola with chicory and salted peanut powder was I thought the best food and drink pairing of the night. Somewhere Chef Gregory snuck in some chili powder or something for a bit of tingly heat with the sweet.

At the end of the dinner, the chefs came out again noting it was the quietest dinner ever (a nod how most dinners get louder as the dishes and wine pairings add up), but if we say we enjoyed it, we really mean it this time! They held a Q&A where guests were able to ask questions and have a conversation with these iconic men, ranging from why is drinking so embedded with fine dining, gratefulness from some who don’t drink and felt for the first time welcome and safe and no judged, a nod to the next step of asking for help but also having resources and healthcare to help address the problem, and underneath it all awareness of the demons that we need to stop rewarding or witnessing and let continue.

We need more people and spaces to support the lifestyle change that it is, and like these men embody, be the proof that there is strength and success another way.

Every course was memorable it its own unique way. If I had to pick a favorite dish, I would first admit I’m a huge sucker for caviar – something about the texture of it bursting is always so fun to me – so Andrew Zimmern wins there. And I also secretly squeed and fan-girled quietly (and tried not to be too creepy sometimes walking by the kitchen to watch them plate and just enjoy the weirdly serene vibe in there) to see Andrew Zimmern since it was my first time seeing him. It also helped that only a few days before there was an amazing article on this dinner in Bon Appetit, and particularly Chef Andrew has been so open and very active in telling his story and standing up for wellness (he has a great interview on Quartzy that appeared just before the dinner as well). But I also really enjoyed the pairing with it too of the Carbonated Buckwheat Tea with Yeast and Lemon Oil by Evan Zimmerman.

I have Instagram videos at @pechluck in my Feast PDX 2018 highlights and also one posted in my regular feed if you want to check out more!

What do you think you would have wanted to try of the dishes?