Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase

A photo recap of my first Nodoguro dinner for 2016 – they popped up in the back room of Renata on January 31 as they are transitioning into their space from where they were last year by Pastaworks to now sharing a space with Peter Cho as reported in Eater until they find a new home.
Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016

This night was Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase where from 7 to 10ish I enjoyed a menu that included special orders from Tsukiji and Fukuoka Municipal, California Abalone, wild aji from Nagasaki, Kohada from Kumamoto, Baby white shrimp, Wild Scallop from Miyagi, and Masaba from Toyama. 

Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016

Here’s a look at what could appear before you at one of these amazing dinners – pay attention to when they list as they sell out quickly from the Nodoguro website as soon as tickets go on sale. This is the best sushi and sashimi experience in Portland.

  1. Starter of oysters
    Oysters to start the 19 course dinner of Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  2. Scallop Somen with quail egg and Ikura (salmon eggs). Somen is noodles so in this case he sliced the Scallop into Noodle like pieces. I’m not afraid to admit I slurped every last drop from the dish.
    Scallop Somen with quail egg and Ikura, Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016Scallop Somen with quail egg and Ikura, Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  3. New Zealand Sea Bream: one thing I love about sashimi are noticing these little details about the beauty of the fish
    New Zealand Sea Bream fro Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 New Zealand Sea Bream from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  4. Aji, a Japanese Horse Mackerel with Sesame, Persimmons and Buckwheat
    Aji, a Japanese Horse Mackerel with Sesame, Persimmons and Buckwheat from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 Aji, a Japanese Horse Mackerel with Sesame, Persimmons and Buckwheat from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  5. Sake steamed abalone with sea urchin (uni)
    Sake steamed abalone with sea urchin at Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 Sake steamed abalone with sea urchin at Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  6. Fresh snow crab with rice, uni and mayo. I always love presentations in the shell
    Fresh snow crab with rice, uni and mayo from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 Fresh snow crab with rice, uni and mayo from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  7. Tai with yuzu and thyme
    Tai from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 Tai from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  8. Aji
    Aji from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 Aji from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  9. There was a Wild Scallop here that I forgot to photograph I think, but I wrote the note “Hokkaido Scallop w aged soy and yuzu juice”
  10. Baby White Shrimp
    Baby White Shrimp from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  11. Geoduck giant clam from Washington, with a touch of yuzu and Jacobsen Sea Salt
    Geoduck giant clam from Washington, with a touch of yuzu and Jacobsen Sea Salt at Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  12. Octopus
    Octopus from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 Octopus Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  13. Uni and Crab
    Uni ad Crab Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  14. Ikura on rice
    Ikura on rice at Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  15. Shimmery Kohada
    Kohada from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 Kohada at Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  16. Handroll
    Handroll from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 Handroll from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  17. Masaba. Can you tell I thought this was beautiful?
    Masaba from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 Masaba from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 Masaba from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 Masaba from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  18. Unagi
    Unagi from Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016
  19. The last course is by your request –  some went for Oysters, I prefer ending with sashimi and Ryan created this lovely medley
    Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016 Nodoguro Hardcore Sushi Omakase 1/31/2016

It might be a little time before my next Nodoguro theme dinner (you can see other Nodoguro themed dinner recaps here) since my next big dinners are the Chef’s Week PDX big 30 course West Coast 2016 dinner at Departure, of which Ryan Roadhouse is one of the 30 chefs each contributing a course to a marathon dinner.

Next week is also Dumpling Week 2016, and I am going to my first Meadowlark supper club dinner. Then it might be time for a little healthy eating to clean my system out before Portland Dining Month in March.

What are you looking forward to eating in February? Do you eat sushi/sashimi, and have a favorite sushi or sashimi?

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Portland Dumpling Week 2016

Last year, the Oregonian/OregonLive.com hosted Dumpling Week in February. Now, they have brought it back for this year. Portland Dumpling Week 2016 will be from Saturday February 6 – Saturday 13, 2016. Essentially, Dumpling Week consists of highlighting a dozen Portland restaurants and food carts offering dumplings.

For each place you visit and enjoy their dumplings, you receive a sticker to add to a Dumpling Passport – one sticker per restaurant. Based on how many stickers you collect, you are entered for different levels of prizes! 1-3 Stickers offers a chance to win a $50 gift card, 4-8 stickers $100 gift card, and 9-12 a $200 gift card. In addition, you can expect the Oregonian/OregonLive.com to also include dumpling articles, including restaurant crawls and recipes every day during the week. You can see the articles from Dumpling Week 2015 here, including a slideshow of the dumplings of last year.

I participated in Dumpling Week last year (see my 2015 Dumpling Week Recap), though I didn’t win anything… Well, I do consider enjoying so many dumplings a win. Quite a few of the places offer a special edition limited time dumpling just for Dumpling Week!

The list this year (you can also find the Dumpling Week 2016 Participanting Restaurants and Dishes list here with their location) that I have ranked based on likelihood that I will visit:

  • ImperialBeef and pork khinkali with melted butter, black pepper and dill. I actually visited Imperial TWICE to enjoy this dumpling, and I will probably do that again! I mean, look at what I enjoyed last year and how juicy it is…
    Imperial went back to Chef Paley's roots in offering Khinkali for Dumpling Week. The $8 dish were 2 palm sized Georgian pork and beef dumplings with herb yogurt Imperial went back to Chef Paley's roots in offering Khinkali for Dumpling Week. The $8 dish were 2 palm sized Georgian pork and beef dumplings with herb yogurt Imperial went back to Chef Paley's roots in offering Khinkali for Dumpling Week. The $8 dish were 2 palm sized Georgian pork and beef dumplings with herb yogurt
  • Sizzle Pie: A team-up of Sizzle Pie and Korean BBQ food cart Kim Jong Grillin’  has resulted in the most unique offering of Dumpling Week in my opinion: Korean BBQ-inspired pizza muffins served with three stone oven-baked dumplings. The three options are either Meat, Vegetarian, or Vegan to make sure everyone can enjoy, which is very thoughtful of them. These will be ONLY be available at the West Burnside location at 926 W Burnside.
    • Meat pizza dumplings: Jjajang smoked pork, Sizzle Pie cheese blend, scallions, fermented black bean paste with pickled yellow daikon and a gochujang dipping sauce.
    • Vegan pizza dumplings: Kim Jong Grillin’ housemade vegan kimchi and “Follow Your Heart” vegan mozzarella with Sizzle Pie’s housemade vegan ranch dip.
    • Vegetarian pizza dumplings: shiitake mushroom, Sizzle Pie cheese blend, spicy tofu, scallions with soy plum drizzle and dipping sauce.
  • KachkaMushroom and potato vareniki with porcini pumpernickel breadcrumbs, French onion smetana and scallions. I already love’s Kachka’s vareniki normally (see below), and this special edition version will probably be as melt in your mouth as every single time the past 12 times I’ve eaten dumplings at Kachka. Last year, their Lamb Pelmeni with adjika butter, smetana, cilantro and mint for $13 was my second favorite of all the dumplings.
    Dumpling Week - Kachka offered a Lamb Pelmeni with adjika butter, smetana, cilantro and mint
  • Ecliptic BrewingDuck liver ravioli with lamb bacon, kale and brown butter. A dumpling and beer? Yes please.
  • GrassaItalian soup dumplings. Last year they also participated and I was very pleased with their generous serving of dumplings so plan to visit them this year as well  (see my recap of last year for more details on their dumpling offering last year)
  • Bollywood TheaterDuck, sweet potato and kale momos with red chili chutney. Available at both locations. This was voted the 2nd most popular dumpling last year – and the most popular one is closed (Son of a Biscuit)
    For dumpling week Bollywood Theater's two locations offered a chicken or vegetarian momos, steamed Nepalese dumplings found in Northern India. These are the vegetarian momos
  • SmallwaresCabeza potstickers with chipotle gochujang, sour cream, brodo and cilantro. I’ve never had anything from Smallwares that didn’t rock it.
  • Mama Chow’s Kitchen: Pork, wood ear mushroom and water chestnut dumplings served with a ginger hoisin-black vinegar dipping sauce. Please be aware that Mama Chow’s is a food cart, and they make everything to order. So go early in the day because they will run out, and do expect a line. 
    For dumpling week $7 Mama Chow Kitchen offered a pan seared version of their wontons from their standard wonton soup, these are Chicken and Taiwan Cabbage dumplings on a bed of baby green bok choy served with a spicy dipping sauce
  • ¿Por Que No?: Empanada filled with chorizo, potato, roasted poblano and queso oaxaca.
  • Viking Soul Food: Caraway-roasted cabbage and potato dumpling in meat broth with a Jarlsberg and Teutonic Wine fondue.
  • Umai: Meat and veggie gyozas. The meat dumplings will be stuffed with lamb, fennel and shiso. The veggie ones will be made with adzuki beans and chard. Both will be wrapped in Umai’s house made gyoza skins.
  • Salt & StrawBaked salted caramel apple dumplings with double fold vanilla ice cream.

I’ll be part of the crowd I’m sure Tweeting and Instagramming with the hashtag #dumplingweek. I will be definitely looking at the feed too to see if I can be convinced to have a dumpling based on pictures from other dumpling lovers.

Are you participating in Portland Dumpling Week 2016, which is coming up in only a few days? Which dumplings sound appealing to you?

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Portland Drink and a Bite Highlight: Kachka

For Foodie Friday today, I continue my series highlighting a Portland Drink and a Bite of food that I think not only is best in class within Portland, but is a classic representation of the character of Portland. Of course, that Portland Drink and a Bite Highlight is also delicious, and unique.

When it’s chilly outside, nothing soothes and warms me more than the buttery soft comfort of Kachka and their dumplings. You could select to enjoy the meat one of the Siberian Pelmeni with Beef, Pork, Veal and Onion or the vegetarian version of Tvorog Vareniki with Farmers Cheese and Scallion. Do not miss this, it is a must order and my Portland Bite highlight. I get this every time I visit Kachka.
At Kachka PDX do not miss these Russian Dumplings of siberian pelmeni with beef, pork, veal and onion and also on the happy hour menu! Kachka's tvorog vareniki, a dish of scallion and farmer’s cheese filled dumplings that are just melt in your mouth, and also on the happy hour menu!

As for a drink, you should get a little vodka. Flavor Infused Vodka especially. You can order it at the sizes of 30, 60, or 100 grams, so it’s possible to get a taste of that Russian tradition of drinking and eating without going overboard. After all, a 30 gram serving is only an ounce.

The vodkas infused with flavors vary from chamomile vodka, horseradish vodka, earl grey, cocoa nib vodka and a few others which seem to consistently be on the menu. And there’s then additional other flavors that rotate seasonally, varying from strawberry, lemon to charred rosemary, matsutake mushroom and more. My personal favorite is the horseradish vodka, which I will usually get with a flavored sweet infused vodka flavor too and a seasonal one. I’m pretty excited that they are going to starting March 2016 be offering bottles of their horseradish vodka for sale so I can get my vodka fix on at home!

Vodka, 30 grams from Kachka Kachka PDX Vodka Flights: 30 grams x 3 of curated vodka. This one is the Mother Russia flight with from right to left, green mark, hammer + sickle, and imperia

For a cocktail with a flavored vodka, you could also consider their tart and refreshing Baba Yaga, which features their chamomile vodka, liquore strega, and lemon.

Kachka PDX Happy Hour drink of the Baba Yaga with chamomile vodka, liquore strega, lemon

If you’d like, you can also get (in addition to the dumplings of course) the much raved about “Herring Under a Fur Coat” cold zakuski. This dish is beautiful, and it seems to be the glamour shot that represents Kachka.
The famous Kachka PDX dish of the Herring Under a Fur Coat, a 7 layer dip but russian. and actually a salad, with herring, potatoes, onions, carrots, beets, mayo, eggs. The famous Kachka PDX dish of the Herring Under a Fur Coat, a 7 layer dip but russian. and actually a salad, with herring, potatoes, onions, carrots, beets, mayo, eggs.

You just remember that you can’t go wrong with any of the zakuski, whether cold or hot. You can’t go wrong.

The reason that I love Kachka, besides the incredible food, and the nice service, is that it’s so very Portland that a restaurant like this can be so successful and loved by foodies. Despite visiting many cities that are considered “Best Food Cities”, it’s only someplace like Portland where food lovers are willing support the unknown just as long as it’s good. Who knew Russian food can be such a hot commodity that it was named 2014 Restaurant of the Year by Willamette Week, and 2015 Rising Star Restaurant of the Year by the Oregonian. Co-owners Bonnie Morales and Chris Israel took a risk that I’m not sure would have paid off in most other cities.

The fact that Portland loves food, and that we embrace all kinds of good food even and especially the unfamiliar, makes me proud to be a Portland citizen. I love how Kachka highlights Soviet era food that just a few decades ago, embarrassed the immigrant kids and was hidden. No, Kachka does more than highlights – it really embraces it and successfully makes everyone embrace it too.

Have you been to Kachka? What is your favorite dish or drink if you have?

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Portland Xurros at 180

Tomorrow, Friday January 29, Portland will have a new dessert sensation beyond the cupcakes, macaroons, experimental ice creams and mini-donuts we’ve already been loving. Welcome the Spanish churros, or using the Catalan spelling of xurros, at the new 180, opening tomorrow. Plus, they are offering for their Grand Open free xurros from 8 AM – 4 PM while supplies last!

I was invited to a sneak peek yesterday at this newest venture, a partnership with Chefs Jose Chesa, Christina Baez, and David Martin who have teamed together to bring their memories from Spain to us in Portland. I’m crushing on the new best in Portland xurros and Chocolate hard. Step into 180 and Xurroland at 2218 NE Broadway…
Step into 180 and Xurroland by Jose Chesa, Christina Baez, and David Martin, Portland's new xurreria

First of all, these are not the churros you have had at the fair, amusement park, or from a cart. There are many styles of churros, including versions in Latin American and Mexico, but this one comes from Barcelona, the capital city of Catalonia region of Spain. I can see why they call these xurros instead (yes, the x is still pronounced ch) to help differentiate them.

At Portland’s first authentic xurreria, 180 uses an impressive stainless steel xurro and fritters making machine from Spain. Jose and David traveled last year to Spain conducting xurro research, including pointers and tips from the founder of the xurro machine company that’s only been making xurros since oh, 1958. So some experience and expertise it seems. The dough is fried at 180 degrees C, thus the name for this xurreria.
The magic xurro machine that makes these fried addictive snacks at 180. This is an automated churros making machine by Industrias José Luis Blanco imported from Spain (along with tips from the founder, who's only been making these machines since 1958. So some experience on churro making). You can see Chef Jose Chesa stirring

At the sneak peek, Jose Chesa still looked mesmerized by its magic as he stirred the xurro dough into the fried addictive snacks that were disappearing so quickly. I think part of it may be the wonder of being able to successfully recreate the food memory he’s trying to pass on to us in Portland.
The magic xurro machine that makes these fried addictive snacks at 180. This is an automated churros making machine by Industrias José Luis Blanco imported from Spain (along with tips from the founder, who's only been making these machines since 1958. So some experience on churro making). You can see Chef Jose Chesa stirring while Christina Baez looks on
Chef Jose Chesa stirring while Christina Baez looks on at the magic xurro machine

The finished bites are much lighter than what you probably have experienced in your churro history. These new Portland xurros are crispy but not hard, airy and not oily – they reminded me of the perfect extra crispy french fries that I seek out, but sweet thanks to a sprinkling of cinnamon and sugar that doesn’t go overboard into sticky sweet. The dusting of the Xurro isn’t as strong in cinnamon as the common churros. Note: the xurros that will be served here are normally shaped like a ring, but they were broken into sample size of mini tube shapes at the sneak peak. You won’t be able to just eat one. Good thing the xurros come in 3 ($3.75), 6 ($5.75), or 12 ($10.75).
Portland Xurros from 180, usually served in a ring but in little tubes for dipping for our sneak peak. Perfectly crispy, not oily, dusted with just the right amount of cinnamon and sugar.

The plus of the tube shape is that they are perfect for dipping. You can dip them in one (or all) of the housemade dipping sauces they offer for your Portland xurros: 2 ounces for $2 of either lemon curd, caramel + roasted peanuts, or marshmallow swirl. You can also additionally order xocolata, which you can both dip your xurro in and sip as a drinking chocolate from Cocanu at 4 ounces for $4. The children’s faces with a little chocolate smear from the xocolata is pretty damn adorable.
Dip your xurro in housemade dipping sauces (2 ounces for $2) of lemon curd, caramel + roasted peanuts, or marshmallow swirl at 180 Xurreria in Portland Dip your xurro in housemade dipping sauces (2 ounces for $2) of lemon curd, caramel + roasted peanuts, or marshmallow swirl at 180 Xurreria in Portland Dip your xurro in housemade dipping sauces (2 ounces for $2) of lemon curd, caramel + roasted peanuts, or marshmallow swirl at 180 Xurreria in Portland Xocolata, Chocolate at 180 that you can dip your xurro, or just sip as drinking chocolate

Or for full chocolate coverage on every single millimeter of the Xurro, get them dipped in chocolate and finished with Jacobsen Sea Salt by them for you at $1.75 each as Xurros Banados.
At 180 PDX, try the xorros dipped in chocolate and finished with Jacobsen Sea Salt by them for you as Xurros Banados At 180 PDX, try the xorros dipped in chocolate and finished with Jacobsen Sea Salt by them for you as Xurros Banados At 180 PDX, try the xorros dipped in chocolate and finished with Jacobsen Sea Salt by them for you as Xurros Banados

Also available here are Xurros Rellenos, stuffed with your choice of Creme Catalana (a burnt custard cream similar to Creme Brulee), Dulce de Leche (shown below that tastes like an upgraded creme caramel), or Xoco Cream (a chocolate cream) at $3 for 2 pieces. Holy moly.
180's Xurros Rellenos, stuffed with Creme Catalana, Dulce de Leche, or Xoco Cream at 180 PDX. This is with Dulce Leche

And like an upgrade on a stuffed croissant enters the Xuixo, a pastry that is stuffed with cream and fried and covered with sugar. Who needs a cronut when you can have this $6 delicacy? Only a limited quantity is made each day.
Christina Baez, one of the partners of 180, modeling a Xuxo, a pastry that is a bit remisicent of a croissant, stuffed with cream and fried and covered with sugar Xuixos from 180 PDX. Xuxo is a pastry that is a bit remisicent of a croissant, stuffed with cream and fried and covered with sugar at 180 PDX Xuixo, a pastry that is a bit remisicent of a croissant, stuffed with cream and fried and covered with sugar. Available at 180 PDX

Yes, it’s a bit messy and sticks to your fingers and flaky. But look at those luscious layers inside these sliced up xuixos that we sampled…
Jose Chesa passing out Xuixo, a pastry that is a bit remisicent of a croissant, stuffed with cream and fried and covered with sugar at 180 A closer look at the layers inside the Xuixo, a pastry that is a bit remisicent of a croissant, stuffed with cream and fried and covered with sugar- offered at 180

If you are looking for a little roasty slight bitterness to balance out the sweet here and also need a caffeine hit – especially if you can call this breakfast to start your day like they do in Barcelona – there is coffee here as well. Local Roasting Company provides the beans for Solo / Americano, Cortado, Bombon, Cappuccino, and Con Leche. All drinks are available iced, and you can also get housemade soy milk or housemade hazelnut milk.

What do you think of the xurreria, are the Portland xurros calling your name? What do you want to go with your Xurro?

Disclosure: I attended a media preview that provided samples and was complimentary, but I will always provide my honest opinion and assessment of all products and experiences I may be given. The views and opinions expressed in this blog are entirely my own.

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Japan Travel: Japanese Treats at Temples and Shrines

I wanted to highlight some of the mysterious snacks and treats you may see when you are looking at food stalls nearby a temple or shrine. You won’t necessarily find all of these at a particular temple or shrine, but usually you will find some. This is not a full list- just my personal favorite Japanese Treats at Temples and Shrines.

The big motherlode is at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, an area in Tokyo, because it boasts Nakamise Dori Shopping Street that almost everyone passes through from Kaminarimon Gate to Hozomon Gate to get to the actual main hall and other buildings. Another great area to look is in Kyoto, in the Higashiyama shopping street between Yasaka Shrine or Kodaji Temple and Kiyomizudera Temple,  also called Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka.

Dango

Dango is a doughy ball served on skewers. In most cases, the dango are each chewy like mochi usually brushed with a sweet sauce. They are usually slightly smaller than the size of a ping pong ball. There are multiple dango balls on a skewer. In some cases the dango are all the same, but there are also multi-colored pink white and green ball that may appear all on a stick too. I’ve also had a black one which was made with black sesame, a Mount Takao specialty.
Black Sesame Dango, a Mount Takao specialty

In most cases the dango are also warmed slightly by a charcoal fire or grill so that parts of it are crisped up a little but on the outside on one side. It may be a modest fire like these
Getting a little crisp edge to the dango, a chewy Japanese dumpling and sweet made from mochiko (rice flour) that are served skewered at a Mount Takao stand Getting a little crisp edge to the dango, a chewy Japanese dumpling and sweet made from mochiko (rice flour) that are served skewered at a Mount Takao stand

Or in the evening a little bit more dramatic with the flames.
Dango stand near Sensoji Temple, this stand was on a side street Dango stand near Sensoji Temple, this stand was on a side street

They are usually plain when they are skewered by the fire, and then when you order a skewer, get the sauce brushed on and may get a quick extra warmed up closer to the heat for a few moments to glaze it slightly.
Brushing the sauce on dango, a chewy Japanese dumpling and sweet made from mochiko (rice flour) that are usually serve skewered at a Mount Takao stand

They are usually very chewy and have a napkin to wipe your face since the sauce may got on it!
Chewy saucy dango, a Japanese dumpling made from mochiko (rice flour) on a skewer. This was almost like a sweet bbq sauce from a Mount Takao stand Chewy saucy dango, a Japanese dumpling made from mochiko (rice flour) on a skewer. This was almost like a sweet bbq sauce from a Mount Takao stand

There is one exception to this, which I have found on Nakamise at Sensoji. You’ll recognize this famous stand by the pink and bunny theme. Even though this is an exception, I always top and get it. Here, the dango are much smaller, more the size of marbles. This is Kibi-dango, a variation of dango made with millet flour. From this same stand you can enjoy with warm sake called Amazake that is very sweet and low alcohol. Here, I caught a few photos of the ladies rolling the kibi dango in the flour. Afterwards, since the flour is still a bit loose they serve the dango in a pink envelope with the white bunny logo on it. I highly recommend with Kibi dango to have it with a beverage as the flour coating instead of a sauce makes it more dry.
Kibi-dango is a variation of dango made with millet flour, which here you can enjoy with warm sake called Amazake that is sweet and low alchohol from the same store on Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa Kibi-dango is a variation of dango made with millet flour, which here you can enjoy with warm sake called Amazake that is sweet and low alcohol from the same store on Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa Kibi-dango is a variation of dango made with millet flour, which here you can enjoy with warm sake called Amazake that is sweet and low alcohol from the same store on Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa Kibi-dango is a variation of dango made with millet flour, which here you can enjoy with warm sake called Amazake that is sweet and low alchohol from the same store on Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa

Ningyo Yaki

Ningyo Yaki is a cake filled with sweet red bean paste. You will often see it in the shape of various buildings or animals.
ningyo-yaki (red bean-filled buns moulded into various shapes using iron pans over a fire) in varoius shapes! ningyo-yaki (red bean-filled buns moulded into various shapes using iron pans over a fire) in varoius shapes!

If you are lucky, you will see it being made fresh, either with an iron mold pan by hand, or by an automated machine!

By hand with a mold pan (at Sensoji Temple) – the man will first pour in the dough, add the bean, and then pour more dough on top and then place the mold on the small flames- he was super fast! You can see all the molds he is working with on the right as they are cooking to the right.:
Making Ningyo Yaki (red bean filled busn molde dinto varoius shapes using iron pans ove ra fire) - the man will first pour in the dough, add the bean, and then pour more dough on top and then place the mold on the small flames- he was super fast! Making Ningyo Yaki (red bean filled busn molde dinto varoius shapes using iron pans ove ra fire) - the man will first pour in the dough, add the bean, and then pour more dough on top and then place the mold on the small flames- he was super fast!

Automated (at Himeji Castle):

At this particular machine (I won’t tell you how long I stood at the window, just fascinated each time I come across these…) there are two brushes on the right side of the machine that brush the inside of the molds – each mold’s side gets brushed. Then as it turns counterclockwise, the molds get dough squirted into it, then the sweet bean pellet is added. I couldn’t see all the way around so I’m not sure if then there is a second squirt of dough to cover the sweet bean before the mold is closed.
Automated Ningyo Yaki Machine. On the right side, you can see two pipes that brush the inside of the mold, and then the machine will squeeze the dough into the molds, On the other side the bean is then added, and more dough on top then the molds continue to circle, cooking it on one side until it is flipped by that lever you see on the right to cook on the other side! It ticks more counterclockwise until it gets to the lever on the right which will open and dump out the ningyo yaki

What I do know is then it clicks forward counterclockwise until the mold reaches a lever on the left side, around the 8 o’clock mark. Then, the lever flips the mold over to cook on the other side until around the 3 o’clock mark in the machine, a lever opens the mold and then a claw retrieves the hot now fully cooked cake.
In this ningyo yaki machine, it automatically does the entire process in an automated fashion. The crane carries the cooked cake to the machine on this right side to cool and get packaged down the little slide of plastic you see. On the left you can see the brushing inside the mold and then the squeezing of dough to the left of that

Then, the claw drops it perfectly each time into a new smaller machine that times the cooling of the cake and then slides it into plastic to be individually wrapped.
Automated ningyo yaki machine. The crane on the right side carries the cooked cake to the machine on this right side to cool and get packaged down the little slide of plastic you see. On the left you can see the brushing inside the mold and then the squeezing of dough to the left of that

Since these photos were taken by Himeji (a famous Japanese castle), no surprise that the ningyo yaki looks like a mini castle! When we purchased this, the man ran around the machine to give us a fresh, still warm one.
Himeji Castle shaped Ningyo Yaki - Ningyo Yaki is a cake filled with sweet red bean paste. You will often see it in the shape of various buildings or animals.

Manju

Manju is a batter (usually flour, rice powder and buckwheat) stuffed with some sort of filling (usually sweet red bean paste of boiled azuki beans and sugar). At Nakamise Dori, I was surprised to find more creative fillings, such as cherry, custard, pumpkin, sweet potato, green tea and more. Below, I got a Sesame Manju.
Manjū (饅頭?) is a popular traditional Japanese confection. There are many varieties of manjū, but most have an outside made from flour, rice powder and buckwheat and a filling of an red bean paste, made from boiled azuki beans and sugar. This stand at Nakamise Dori has many creative fillings beyond just sweet red bean Manjū (饅頭?) is a popular traditional Japanese confection. There are many varieties of manjū, but most have an outside made from flour, rice powder and buckwheat and a filling of red bean paste made from boiled azuki beans and sugar.

Nikuman

Nikuman is a smaller version of Chinese buns. They are steamed, and may be filled with meat or other fillings. They are served quite hot, often right out of the steamer, so definitely be carefully biting into it – the floury doughy soft bun may seem warm, but the inside can be piping hot.
The many snacks being made fresh that you can purchase while walking in the Higashiyama District - we stopped for these Nikuman, or steamed buns because there is a beef burdock one and also a bean green tea vegetarian one The many snacks being made fresh that you can purchase while walking in the Higashiyama District - we stopped for these Nikuman, or steamed buns because there is a beef burdock one and also a bean green tea vegetarian one

You will probably recognize it by the wooden steamer trays stacked on top of each other
Nikuman - steamed bun filled with meat and/or other ingedients. This beefy one was juicy by Himeji Castle Nikuman

For instance, I found these in the Higashiyama District – we stopped for these buns because there is a beef and burdock one and also a bean and green tea vegetarian one!
The many snacks being made fresh that you can purchase while walking in the Higashiyama District - beef and burdock one The many snacks being made fresh that you can purchase while walking in the Higashiyama District - beef and burdock The many snacks being made fresh that you can purchase while walking in the Higashiyama District - bean green tea vegetarian one The many snacks being made fresh that you can purchase while walking in the Higashiyama District - bean green tea vegetarian one

Menchi Katsu

Menchi Katsu is a breaded and deep fried cutlet or croquette, usually meat but it could be another protein (in Kyoto we had the vegetarian options of potato or tofu skin).

This meat one below shown from near Sensoji Temple at the stand Asakusa Menchi (you will probably recognize it first by the line) is the best version I’ve ever had, famous for being particularly juicy / greasy depending on your point of view and they use a rare breed pork called Kouza-buta (Kouza pork) from Kanagawa.
In line for famous Asamen's Menchi Katsu, a breaded and depe fried cutlet or croquette Very juicy and flavorful fried pork thing - apparently Menchi Katsu, a deep fried breaded cutlet - found at Asakusa, near Sensoji Temple

I also found some while walking in Higashiyama shopping street towards Kiyomizudera Temple in Kyoto- they had filling options of Kobe beef, soy milk skin cream, and Japanese potato croquette.
As a snack in the Higashiyama District, we purchased some croquettes to energize us for our uphill walk to the temple - they had kobe beef, soy milk skin cream, and Japanese potato croquette As a snack in the Higashiyama District, we purchased some croquettes to energize us for our uphill walk to the temple - they had kobe beef, soy milk skin cream, and Japanese potato croquette

Senbei

Senbei are Japanese rice crackers. There are a huge variety of senbei out there – some are sweet, salty, spicy, or savory, in all sorts of shapes and sizes and flavors. They are usually baked or grilled over charcoal. The mnst common ones you see are round, and may have a little square piece of seaweed wrapped around it and be shiny from a soy sauce glaze.

What has made senbei probably most famous is that they sell them to feed the deer at Nara. There is even a place where they throw large senbei like frisbee and the nburn down a mountain!?? Japan Talk has a webpage listing some interesting senbei trivia.

I admit I don’t necessarily seek out senbei because it makes me thirsty, and that makes me drink, and then I might have to use a public toilet and who knows if it will be the nice ones with buttons or a squat one (although at least unlike China they provide a nice handle on the wall to keep your balance). But I wanted to highlight an interesting one I found in Kyoto, on Higashiyama just across from the entrance to the Kodaji Temple. It was the aroma and seeing them being made fresh that caught my attention. Fresh senbei is always superior to packaged ones.
Senbei store where we observed it being made fresh in Higashiyama District. This senbei has been produced since 1864 and is still hand baked the exact same way. These are different in that they utilize broad bean, wheat, flour and an egg.

This one, according to a helpful English index card in the window, has been produced since 1864 and is still hand baked the exact same way. These are different in that they utilize broad bean, wheat, flour and an egg. The craftsman was super cheerful and welcoming even as he kept working the whole time. He uses those bags to pie in dough, but that rectangle in front of him is an oven full of broad beans that are being roasted – you an see some of the beans there on the cloth and paper in front of him. He scoops the beans from the big pot to his left and into drawers of the oven. Senbei store where we observed it being made fresh in Higashiyama District. This senbei has been produced since 1864 and is still hand baked the exact same way. These are different in that they utilize broad bean, wheat, flour and an egg.

We sampled all the different kinds and the bag we bought did not make it out of Japan because we ate it all.
Kyoto Senbei made with broad bean

Amazake

Amazake is a sweet warmed sake. It is made out of fermented rice and Koji (a special cultured rice – it’s bringing the important fungus that will break down the carb of the rice to sugars) so the sweetness comes naturally, not from any sugar.
Amazake that is sweet and low alcohol from the same store on Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa Amazake that is sweet and low alcohol from the same store on Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa

It is poured from the pot where it is still kept warm.
="Amazake

The texture is almost like an almond milk. There may be a lot or just a little of the rice left in the beverage.
 Amazake that is sweet and low alcohol from the same store on Nakamise Shopping Street at Sensoji Temple in Asakusa Amazake by Kiyomizudera Temple's fountains

It might be made out of white rice, brown rice, or even black sesame (which I found as a specialty at Mount Takao). It is low in alcohol, so even kids drink it. When it’s chilly out, it’s a nice warm drink that is more substantial than just tea.
Black Sesame Amazake at Mount Takao

Which of these treats caught your eye as something you would stop for? Have you had any of these before? Is there a Japanese Temple or Shrine snack I missed?

Here’s a summary of my Japan Travel post series:

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